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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings rtk8892's Avatar
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    Metallic rattling? Please help

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    Hello,
    I have the 4.2l 6mt its jhm 93 octane tuned, jhm ported and upgraded intake manifold and throttle body, xs 2.5" downpipe, fast intentions 2.5" full catback, and a cold air intake. Recently I am getting this metallic grinding/ rotating noise. It sounds like it's coming from the drivers side intake manifold. The noise doesn't go away regardless of speed, gear, anything. When I start the car up cold it doesn't make the noise for a minute or two but once it runs a bit the noise starts. I just purchased this car not too long ago and am still learning the internals and everything. Anyone have this issue and might know what's wrong?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings FastEddie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtk8892 View Post
    Hello,
    I have the 4.2l 6mt its jhm 93 octane tuned, jhm ported and upgraded intake manifold and throttle body, xs 2.5" downpipe, fast intentions 2.5" full catback, and a cold air intake. Recently I am getting this metallic grinding/ rotating noise. It sounds like it's coming from the drivers side intake manifold. The noise doesn't go away regardless of speed, gear, anything. When I start the car up cold it doesn't make the noise for a minute or two but once it runs a bit the noise starts. I just purchased this car not too long ago and am still learning the internals and everything. Anyone have this issue and might know what's wrong?
    Mind taking a video and posting it?
    SUSPENSION-KW V3-Hotchkiss RS4 sway bars-034 Adj UCA-034 strut mount-034 F&R end links-034 motor mounts-034 Snub mount W/bracket-034 Trans mount l BRAKES-ECS Stage 4 BBK-ECS rear rotors & lines, Hawk pads l Engine-JHM Tune-JHM 6 rib pulley-Milltek catless DP's-FI exhaust l EXTERIOR-RS4 black grille-Custom headlights-LED city & DRL lights-ECS LED tail lights & plate lights l INTERIOR-Custom steering wheel-SRP pedals-ECS LED lights-MOMO shift knob-Gen 2 RNSE & AMI l WHEELS-OEM RS4 W/ Michelin PSS

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Lucca M's Avatar
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    any codes ? check engine light ?
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  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings rtk8892's Avatar
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    I will try to upload the video as soon as I go inside but the noise is coming from a line under the car. It's the long metal line that runs left to right directly in front of the sway bar. It's shaking and vibrating and the noise is terrible

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtk8892 View Post
    I will try to upload the video as soon as I go inside but the noise is coming from a line under the car. It's the long metal line that runs left to right directly in front of the sway bar. It's shaking and vibrating and the noise is terrible
    That's an AC line. Perhaps the clamps have come loose.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings IslandHydro's Avatar
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    Does it change pitch with motor rpm?

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings rtk8892's Avatar
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    You know I was totally wrong, with further investigation it is coming from the aircon pulley

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtk8892 View Post
    You know I was totally wrong, with further investigation it is coming from the aircon pulley
    The AC doesn't have a pulley; it's shaft driven from the back. However, if the AC compressor runs out of oil due to a leak, it can and will disintegrate and make a horrendous noise similar to what you described. Does your AC work?

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings rtk8892's Avatar
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    https://youtu.be/jN-LBRDRp9U

    That is the terrible noise, any idea on what you think is going on?

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    definitely sounds like a bearing of some sort running dry. My guess would be either the Power steering pump or the Air conditioning. It looks like you have a nice leak going on down there. op..can you confirm this? have you checked the power steering reservoir for fluid? x2 on the shaft that runs the AC... Might be able to d/c the shaft and see if the noise goes away.
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  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings rtk8892's Avatar
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    My ac doesn't work I get Luke warm air

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings rtk8892's Avatar
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    I don't believe I have a power steering leak, the fluid was a bit low a few days ago so I topped it off however the levels haven't decreased at all since. What exactly do you mean by d/c the shaft?

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings jakeoboy67's Avatar
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    looks(sounds) like it's your AC compressor.

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings rtk8892's Avatar
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    But what would be making it make that noise? I don't want to have to take to the stealership the closest one is two hours. I'm pretty confident I could change the compressor myself but it looks like a jobbb

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    My guess would be AC shaft bearing..if that is a thing...I've never taken one apart but im assuming its: service position and a lot of swearing. I would personally just unhook the shaft if its possible and run with it until you get a replacement AC pump.
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S42011 Dieselgate Q7 TDI..... patiently waiting for my warranty to expire!!

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  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings rtk8892's Avatar
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    Do I have to take the whole front end off to do that?

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    The AC compressor is direct drive, so even when the AC isn't on, the compressor is being driven. If your AC doesn't work, there's a good chance the refrigerant has leaked out of the system somewhere. Is your "ECON" light stuck on? This happens when the pressure in the system is too low. If the "ECON" light isn't on, but the AC still just blows warm air as you say, then the compressor is probably toast. Mine had a leak at the discharge port due to poor installation by the shop I bought the car from. The compressor PAG oil leaked out along with the refrigerant and the compressor burned up and literally ejected part of its internals through the housing. It was making a horrendous clanging/rattling sound like that.

    The job is doable, but very involved. The cooling system has to be drained and the entire front end, lock carrier and everything has to be removed. If you are lucky, the compressor driveshaft, which is a separate piece, hasn't welded itself to the compressor. I had to remove it WITH my compressor because it was stuck on there, then clamp it in a vise and use a breaker bar to get it loose. I ended up replacing the driveshaft along with the compressor. Because they were fused together, I also had to remove the water pump to get the assembly out. This may or may not be necessary if you can break the compressor shaft loose while it is still in the car.

    You'll want to replace the orifice tube (inline filter) and the condensor if the compressor has blown, because the metal shavings it inevitably sent through the system will clog those parts and cause your new compressor to fail prematurely. You'll also want to thoroughly flush all the lines and the evaporator core (I would recommend to just leave it in the dash and flush through it via the connecting lines) to get any remaining metal fragments and residual PAG oil out of the system. Additionally, you'll want to replace the receiver/dryer because once it becomes exposed to air, the desiccant inside gets saturated and it no longer functions. When it's all reassembled you'll need to charge the system up with refrigerant ASAP.

    As for just removing the compressor shaft by itself to disconnect the compressor, it's not very feasible. The driveshaft has a splined end that engages with the drive unit on the back of the engine. To pull it forward far enough to get it out of the splines, you'd have to remove the compressor. IF it's not fused to the compressor, you could disconnect it, but then it would just be floating around loose in there, still being driven by the engine but flopping around and likely to cause damage.

  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings rtk8892's Avatar
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    Wow thank you, you have been a great deal of help. Is it okay to drive my car this way for now and deal with the noise while I gather the funds to do this job? Also do you have any idea ballpark area what a shop might charge for this job? Thanks again!

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings rtk8892's Avatar
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    Oh and also, my Econ light does not stay on. I want to take the front end off tomorrow and see what I can find that way I know how to proceed

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtk8892 View Post
    Wow thank you, you have been a great deal of help. Is it okay to drive my car this way for now and deal with the noise while I gather the funds to do this job? Also do you have any idea ballpark area what a shop might charge for this job? Thanks again!
    If it's already making that noise and the AC doesn't work, the damage is already done and won't get any worse. I might be slightly concerned about the potential of something inside the compressor to bind up which would probably cause the driveshaft to snap. A new compressor driveshaft is only about $90 and as I said I replaced mine with the compressor so that option is there, but there's ALSO the chance of the splined portion causing damage to the drive unit on the engine, which is NOT cheap and would have to be replaced with the engine out of the car. It's unlikely, but you never know what can happen with these cars...sometimes the worst possible things.

    Someone else will have to chime in about the labor costs because I do all my own work. As far as parts go, though, the compressor will run about $400-600 depending on where you get it; I used a Nissens brand unit from FCP Euro. Denso is the OEM and costs more, but I did find a few reasonably priced ones; unfortunately, they were out of stock at the places that had the reasonable prices, hence my decision to go with Nissens. Don't buy a compressor straight from Audi (which is what a dealership will do) because it is literally just the Denso part, but marked up to $1200.

    Condensor is about $350 from Audi. If you don't have a factory power steering cooler, you can probably buy an aftermarket one, but most of them out there lack the mounting holes for the factory PS cooler. I found this out the hard way, but was able to return the part to ECS Tuning without trouble due to this design problem. Receiver/dryer can be aftermarket for about $30, orifice tube straight from Audi is like $20, and all the O-rings (ALWAYS replace all O-rings) are less than $10.

    As I said, the job is pretty involved timewise, so I would imagine a shop would charge you at least 8 hours if not more, but I honestly don't know for certain. It took me a lot longer because I'm not a pro and also I spent a LONG time on the flushing process to ensure I didn't have to do this repair a second time. If you do use a shop, I would recommend a place that is known to take care when doing these kinds of jobs. The shop I bought my car from, as I mentioned briefly in my previous post, had replaced the compressor and screwed up the job. They didn't flush the system or replace any of the metal-clogged parts (the orifice tube looked horrible) but that never even mattered because they also smashed one of the O-rings partially outside of the fitting on the discharge line from the compressor, so it leaked massively. This was just sloppy, careless work that I was able to spot almost immediately upon gaining access to the compressor despite my relative inexperience with this type of work. So be sure you know the shop is legit. Small indie shops are good for that type of thing because they tend to rely a lot more on word of mouth reputation and are often family owned.

  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings rtk8892's Avatar
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    Quick question if you don't mind, is there any possibility that the noise could be power steering related? The front tires I had on where at a low pressure, I just replaced them and now they are both at a good pressure. My steering was previously pretty heavy, now it steers like butter and the noise stopped for a bit today. It was on and off all day, started again I when I turned right into a parking space, then miraculously stopped for a bit after I had left and got back on the road

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtk8892 View Post
    Quick question if you don't mind, is there any possibility that the noise could be power steering related? The front tires I had on where at a low pressure, I just replaced them and now they are both at a good pressure. My steering was previously pretty heavy, now it steers like butter and the noise stopped for a bit today. It was on and off all day, started again I when I turned right into a parking space, then miraculously stopped for a bit after I had left and got back on the road
    The power steering pump is in the same general area and shaft-driven like the compressor off of the drive unit at the back of the engine, so it's possible, but hard to tell with weird intermittent behavior like that. Typically a failing pump is going to make some pretty horrendous groaning/whining noises when you are steering. I had a P/S line rupture right in the middle of a road trip. I patched it in a hotel parking lot and tried to bleed the system but the patch wasn't holding and the air getting in was causing the pump to make some pretty awful noises. I ended up having it towed to an indie shop and they were able to save the pump once they installed a new hose, but I've read an assortment of stories about people having pumps crap out after an extremely short time while driving with a ruptured hose, or driving for 2+ hours that way and having the pump be fine, so I think they are just fickle.

    Still, if your AC is blowing only warm air, something isn't working correctly. You can take a reading from the pressure switch mounted on the condensor if you have VAG-COM to determine if the system is at correct operating pressure. Being that your ECON light isn't stuck on, I would guess that it is, so an internal compressor failure sounds like the possible culprit, and it's going to make some bad noises due to being constantly driven when the engine is running.

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