Need help finishing my SAI/Vacuum line deleting, & random unplugged wire?

[jesse500]

I am almost done deleting all my vacuum lines/check valves, got rid of PCV, and SAI. Also deleted airbox and will be running a Cone filter.

I plugged the lower line, that went to the lower hard line on the airbox. But what do you guys use to plug the big hole in the TIP that used to go right to the PCV black puck?

And In all the photos in the DIY, Nobody seems to have this upper line. And I can't remember where it's supposed to go. Where Do I connect it to? Or do I plug it too?


I also have this random, broken connector infront of the rad, siting below the Power Steering hard line. What is it for? I cannot find a vacant female connection....


The USP needed some love!

[ImAudiHeree]

I believe that broken connector is for your ambient air temp sensor.


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[jesse500]

Anyone know where that is supposed to connect to?

[DiertyEuroSpec]

Deteling PCV is a very bad idea. Why are you doing this exactly? Please search about our PCV system and how it effects maintaining a healthy engine.

Also expect your gas mileage to go down to v8 status and have difficulty filling up a the pump each time.
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[jesse500]

Deteling PCV is a very bad idea. Why are you doing this exactly? Please search about our PCV system and how it effects maintaining a healthy engine.

Also expect your gas mileage to go down to v8 status and have difficulty filling up a the pump each time.
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SAI pump & PCV delete is a common remoal! I had a bunch of vacuum leaks from severed lines, and cracked hoses., so I decided it was time to remove it all. Will be blocking off SAI/EGR port on the back of the motor. I will be running a Catch can, so It will be better for the motor, less sludge into motor. I don't have emissions testing where I am from, nor do I have a Cat, (3" TP). So system doesn't offer me much. Tank breather, solonoid/check valve is still there, so It purges the fuel system fine. And I will be getting a tune, with bigger injectors very soon, so MPG is not a big concern, even though people that have done it, which is alot, did not report any sizeable loss in MPG loss.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...simplification

[SJorge3442]

Deteling PCV is a very bad idea. Why are you doing this exactly? Please search about our PCV system and how it effects maintaining a healthy engine.

Also expect your gas mileage to go down to v8 status and have difficulty filling up a the pump each time.
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I keep seeing new people delete this and I just don't understand it. Also, that has to be one of the sketchiest ramp/wood/cinderblock vehicle lifts I've ever seen.

[DiertyEuroSpec]

Jesse do know what PCV stands for? If you did why would you want to delete it and have all that moisture from condensation eat away and coreode your block? Not to mention all the oil seals you will also be compromising.

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[jpulll]

Engine sludge in our engines happens from improper oil changes which include the intervals used, oils used, and filters used. someone just chimed in saying no one has these problems anymore because everyone uses the proper synthetic oils, everyone changes there oils usually within 5k miles and also they use the big Mann oil filter. keep the PCV system. if anything get the 034 breather kit and add a catch can in line if you wanna get into the cool kids club.

as for the Evap system you need this. one you'll have a problem filling up-you'll get gas all down your quarter panel and you'll be bitching at yourself saying why did I do this. Also the Evap system sends excess fuel vapors into the engine airstream and if the ecu picks up on your lack of fuel vapors, you might be running rough.

n249, sai system, sjp- delete.

[texasboy21]

PCV delete
Air box delete/cone filter
Fram oil filter
STP coolant

Sounds like you 1) have no idea how the PCV works/what it does 2) shopped at your local autozone for a bunch of crap maintenance parts.

Good luck.

[MacFady]

I'll not add anything to what others have said about what your doing, good advice above. I will be constructive and at least say you can get the big 068115561B filters at your local VW dealership for basically the same price as you are picking up those FRAM filters. Also, since I see you plan on replacing your dipstick tube, I'd recommend pushing a pipe cleaner/brush down the tube prior to pulling the old one out so if it shatters into a thousand pieces they wont all drop down into your pan. Stop by a pet supply store, that's where I got a bunch of assorted ones.

I will re-iterate that your method for getting your car up in the air is indeed very sketchy. Dropping it down will be interesting. Just pick up some jack stands, they wont break the bank and are a lot less likely to kill you.

[jesse500]

I'll not add anything to what others have said about what your doing, good advice above. I will be constructive and at least say you can get the big 068115561B filters at your local VW dealership for basically the same price as you are picking up those FRAM filters. Also, since I see you plan on replacing your dipstick tube, I'd recommend pushing a pipe cleaner/brush down the tube prior to pulling the old one out so if it shatters into a thousand pieces they wont all drop down into your pan. Stop by a pet supply store, that's where I got a bunch of assorted ones.

I will re-iterate that your method for getting your car up in the air is indeed very sketchy. Dropping it down will be interesting. Just pick up some jack stands, they wont break the bank and are a lot less likely to kill you.

I have Wix 51333 filters on order, no store locally had them in stock. I am only using a fram as thats All I could find. I live an hour from any town, so getting parts is not as easy as running down the the store real quick.

And I very much trust the rear, big solid blocks are not going anywhere. Front, is a little sketchy I will admit. No jackstands are tall enough to the get car at the height I want that are not $100 each.

[jesse500]

PCV delete
Air box delete/cone filter
Fram oil filter
STP coolant

Sounds like you 1) have no idea how the PCV works/what it does 2) shopped at your local autozone for a bunch of crap maintenance parts.

Good luck.

not the first person to do a PCV delete. I had a bunch of Vacuum leaks, so instead of spending a bunch of money on a bunch of new vacuum lines, when a full delete is cleaner looking, and helps for throttle response, not to mention how much better looking & easier to work in engine bay is.

also not the first person to Remove the factory air box, and run a cone filter. I am making A nice heat shield, keeping the main snorkel to filter, and got a big K&N filter, with pre-filter bag.

Fram oil filter I will give you that, I wanted a Wix 51333, $19 is a big hit, but no store had them in stock. Ordered 4 for later.

STP coolant is a Jug I have is orange long life. I dont buy into the BS for Audi coolant. I've worked in the heavy duty industry, and light duty. Its all the same shit. If you want to pay $22 for jug, go ahead. I plan on a full coolant flush in the spring anyways.

I do know how a PCV works, weird how tons of PCV & EGR systems in vehicles get deleted? diesel trucks, heavy duty motors, small cars, gas job pickups. I don't have emissions testing here, and will be running a catch can. So Good enough for me! Oh and I dont have an AutoZone

[jesse500]

I keep seeing new people delete this and I just don't understand it. Also, that has to be one of the sketchiest ramp/wood/cinderblock vehicle lifts I've ever seen.

No cinder blocks. 14" x 12" x 30" hard wood blocks under the rear wheels, steel ramps on the front with two 4x4 blocks screwed together, in the seat of the ramp. Ebrake & car in gear. Not worried.

[diagnosticator]

Just another instance of the blind following the blind. Ignorance is bliss.

[jesse500]

Back on track. Where does the ambient temperature sensor plug into? I dont see the plug.

[jpulll]

I think you still have some searching to do.

In regards to the coolant, something as simple as using city water instead of distilled water can have detrimental effects (the molecules will become deposits inside your coolant pipes and pump). What do you think will happen if you change from the approved fluids for our vehicle.

The PCV- yes many people have removed the pcv system. Many people who have high horsepower/big turbo applications and even then they'll do something smart and special like have a vacuum source from the exhaust to pull the excess crank pressures out of the block- something which audi had the intake manifold/tip do for use. With a catch can all you have is an in and an out source. So unless you are prepared to do something like that and have an extra vacuum source, be prepared to do as some stated above-changing seals/gaskets...what I'm saying is there is some sense that goes into a PCV system unlike the.....

egr system- all it does is open up a valve so you can supply more air into the exhaust stream in order to heat the cat up. Pretty pointless unless you have emissions. Lol

Oil filters- go to ecs tuning or some other supplier like europaparts and pick up 5 big mann oil filters. ECS takes a couple bucks off if you buy in bulk. Hey and while you're there pick up some g13 bubblegum fluid for the coolant ;)

And i still stand by my reasoning to not delete the EVAP system. Air fuel ratio being screwed up and also gas all down the quarter panel.

Lastly, I don't care how you jack up your car just make sure it doesn't fall on you.

Good luck! :D

[lyates1987]

SAI might be fine to delete but keep the PCV system and add the catch can. Your motor won't like no PCV. That's my constructive 2cents.

Oh yea, +1 on the MANN filters, 940/25

[old guy]

Clicky click®

Something you should be concerned about in the Great White North.



How it all works: Clicky click®

[old guy]

Back on track. Where does the ambient temperature sensor plug into? I dont see the plug.

[Fast4esT]

I've got all the extra systems deleted, bought car that way, but first plan was to reinstall a pcv hose with catch can in the middle routed back to the TIP. Still have a clean easy functioning engine bay and get the ventilation and filtering.

[old guy]

I've got all the extra systems deleted, bought car that way, but first plan was to reinstall a pcv hose with catch can in the middle routed back to the TIP. Still have a clean easy functioning engine bay and get the ventilation and filtering.

To get a purge flow you also need to put the PRV (aka: puck valve) back in service.

[jesse500]

To get a purge flow you also need to put the PRV (aka: puck valve) back in service.

So is there A Way to just add a couple lines back into play, but still keep alot of the little check valves and junk still gone? Thanks for the Links, was a good read.

And what is that photo? looks like an oil cap?

- - - Updated - - -

excellent thank you!

[jesse500]

Clicky click®

Something you should be concerned about in the Great White North.



How it all works: Clicky click®

I will be re-addressing a few Items which are overlooked in the main DIY write up.

1- Connect a check valve between intake mani & brake booster.
2- Connect N249 back up properly. (DV to N249, intake mani to N249? Do I need any check valves? What port of the N249 do I use to go to DV & go to Intake Mani the main two ports, or is the one side port utilized? Right now I have them looped.
3-N80 valve, I am going to T that back into the TIP. I also have to connect it to the intake manifold correct? Can I attack it to one of the capped intake manifold ports? A one way check valve also is needed, keeping the flow coming from passenger side of car (N80 valve) and keeping flow towards drivers side (into intake Mani).

[DiertyEuroSpec]

N80 does not need to go to the intake mani. Its supply hose comes from the gas tank to valve to TIP.

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[jesse500]

N80 does not need to go to the intake mani. Its supply hose comes from the gas tank to valve to TIP.

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So its fine just to route it to the N80 port in the TIP? It does not need another vacvuum source?

[old guy]

So its fine just to route it to the N80 port in the TIP? It does not need another vacvuum source?

Not if you want the Evap system to function properly. You will need a connection to the LDP and TIP as well as the intake manifold. The TIP doesn't provide a vacuum source. It just provides a pressure release when the manifold is under boost conditions. for the Evap to work properly the LDP has to open the vent to one side of the charcoal canister and The N80 opens to let the intake manifold pull the hydrocarbons through the other side of the canister and into the intake stream.

If the ECU doesn't see a change in the A/F ratio when actively venting the system you will get a CEL.

[jesse500]

Not if you want the Evap system to function properly. You will need a connection to the LDP and TIP as well as the intake manifold. The TIP doesn't provide a vacuum source. It just provides a pressure release when the manifold is under boost conditions. for the Evap to work properly the LDP has to open the vent to one side of the charcoal canister and The N80 opens to let the intake manifold pull the hydrocarbons through the other side of the canister and into the intake stream.

If the ECU doesn't see a change in the A/F ratio when actively venting the system you will get a CEL.

And the LDP is where again? I'll buy some fittings are hose tomorrow.

[old guy]

And the LDP is where again? I'll buy some fittings are hose tomorrow.

Leak detection pump. It is located underneath the drivers side rear wheel well liner. It needs a vacuum source to operate. The vacuum comes from one of the two vacuum lines that connected to the intake manifold and run underneath the drivers side front fender.



In the OEM configuration the vacuum source connected to the port underneath and behind the throttle body. that would be the left side hose. The hose on the right side of the "T" connects to the N80. The lower hose connects to the line running under the front fender and back to the LDP.



Here's the complete set up.

[walky_talky20]

The trick with doing the "deletes" is to delete the utter ridiculousness of the systems, while leaving the important things functional.

- PCV is one of the things you may want to simplify, but not delete altogether. You want a metered fresh air supply (PRV) and a metered vacuum source (PCV valve).
- EVAP never hurt anybody, and the necessary parts are not clunky, obtrusive or annoying. It's a keeper.
- SAI is...not those things. Safe to can that one if you really want to.
- N249 is a personal preference thing. Unless you have any sort of vent-to-atmosphere DV. Then you pretty much have to bypass it.

[jesse500]

Leak detection pump. It is located underneath the drivers side rear wheel well liner. It needs a vacuum source to operate. The vacuum comes from one of the two vacuum lines that connected to the intake manifold and run underneath the drivers side front fender.



In the OEM configuration the vacuum source connected to the port underneath and behind the throttle body. that would be the left side hose. The hose on the right side of the "T" connects to the N80. The lower hose connects to the line running under the front fender and back to the LDP.



Here's the complete set up.

Thanks! Your the man.

Other news. Got a few hundred KM on it now. zero difference in pumping fuel into car, and fuel mileage is still stellar! Car is running like A top. Can definetly hear the DV alot more now.