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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Cam cap positioning and orientation?

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    I am replacing my heads, and have the cams set to go back in.
    I am trying to verify that I have the cam caps in the correct order and orientation, in case I removed them wrong, etc.

    Thanks for any and all help!

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Dec 10 2013
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    Caps literally push right in, in any orientation. Put some Gasket sealer on it and you're good to go.
    Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street
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  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bordom View Post
    Caps literally push right in, in any orientation. Put some Gasket sealer on it and you're good to go.
    gasket sealer on cam caps...?

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by K04andmeth View Post
    gasket sealer on cam caps...?
    a small amount around the ribbed section of the cap. helps to ensure they don't leak. rubber/silicone breaks down over time

  5. #5
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Mar 12 2015
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    Maryland

    Do they not have numbers and arrows to indicate their position in relation to the timing belt side of the engine?

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings rnagy86's Avatar
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    What the f? Some people should not comment on forums such as this.

    As for the OP, you can't install them wrong, there are numbers on them (starting from the cam chain tensioner)
    and arrows pointing to the center of the heads (spark plugs).

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rnagy86 View Post
    What the f? Some people should not comment on forums such as this.

    As for the OP, you can't install them wrong, there are numbers on them (starting from the cam chain tensioner)
    and arrows pointing to the center of the heads (spark plugs).
    Works like a charm

    Everything graciously mispelled by Android
    Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street
    2003 Allroad 6-spd, 4.2 BBD S6 Swap

    IG: 24_et

    Sold:
    2010 Deep Sea Blue S4 6-spd

    RIP:
    2001.5 Brilliant Black S4 6-spd

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by K04andmeth View Post
    gasket sealer on cam caps...?
    disregard, I reread. I thought you were referring to the silicone cam cap seals at back of the head. you're referring to the cam bearing caps. what that guy down below said

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings rnagy86's Avatar
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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zba's Avatar
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    Denver

    The cam caps need to be put back from where they came. I forget if Audi stamps an E on the intake cam caps and intake and an A on the exhaust can caps but make sure to put everything back where it came from.

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings
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    OK, next question.

    How the hell do I keep the cams at TDC while tightening the caps on? I have tried twice, and they click over to not TDC before I can finish.
    Crank lock pin in inserted in the block.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zba's Avatar
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    Remove the pin and rotate the crank backwards 60 degrees or so btdc. Get cams situated and lock bar attached, bring crank back to tdc

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    ^^ This

    If you can see into the hole, there will be a slot when you get it in the right spot.
    The notch on the left here is what you want to see through the hole.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    I'm going to be going through this process as well as I have a fucked up cam and will be replacing all cams and lifters. The Bentley doesn't say anything about rotating crank when reinstalling cams but I'm sure real life experience trumps that.

    My question is if you guys think this process will work:

    Crank stays locked at TDC
    Install cams, chain and tensioner
    Install bearing caps but don't torque
    Install cam gears and cam lock bar
    Install cam retaining bolts on outside of head
    Torque bearing caps in proper sequence
    Torque cam bolts
    Remove cam lock bar

    I trust myself doing that compared to rotating crank and trying to get my marks to line up. Would this procedure cause the cams to jump when I remove the bar?

  15. #15
    Senior Member Three Rings crazyquik22023's Avatar
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    Brunswick, Ohio

    Quote Originally Posted by Zba View Post
    The cam caps need to be put back from where they came. I forget if Audi stamps an E on the intake cam caps and intake and an A on the exhaust can caps but make sure to put everything back where it came from.
    The exhaust caps are completely different from the intake caps. Exhaust caps are 2 bolts and intake caps are 4.

    Quote Originally Posted by cjt671 View Post
    I'm going to be going through this process as well as I have a fucked up cam and will be replacing all cams and lifters. The Bentley doesn't say anything about rotating crank when reinstalling cams but I'm sure real life experience trumps that.

    My question is if you guys think this process will work:

    Crank stays locked at TDC
    Install cams, chain and tensioner
    Install bearing caps but don't torque
    Install cam gears and cam lock bar
    Install cam retaining bolts on outside of head
    Torque bearing caps in proper sequence
    Torque cam bolts
    Remove cam lock bar

    I trust myself doing that compared to rotating crank and trying to get my marks to line up. Would this procedure cause the cams to jump when I remove the bar?
    That should work just fine. And you shouldn't need to remove the bar until you have the timing belt back on in which case the cams will not "jump" They should not "jump" anyway after removing the bar as long as you don't touch the cam gears with the bar removed.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Cam cap positioning and orientation?

    Quote Originally Posted by crazyquik22023 View Post
    The exhaust caps are completely different from the intake caps. Exhaust caps are 2 bolts and intake caps are 4.



    That should work just fine. And you shouldn't need to remove the bar until you have the timing belt back on in which case the cams will not "jump" They should not "jump" anyway after removing the bar as long as you don't touch the cam gears with the bar removed.
    I was thinking it should work fine, but not sure why op is having an issue with cams moving out of time. So I should route the timing belt prior to installing/removing the lock bar?

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    TDC means exactly that. You put the cams in and it pushes the wrong valve, you be having a bad couple days, or weeks, or months, or sometimes even years

    Our motor has a tdc event every 120deg. Rotating backward 60deg gets the pistons as far away from the valves as possible while installing heads or cams.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    TDC means exactly that. You put the cams in and it pushes the wrong valve, you be having a bad couple days, or weeks, or months, or sometimes even years

    Our motor has a tdc event every 120deg. Rotating backward 60deg gets the pistons as far away from the valves as possible while installing heads or cams.
    So the crank should be rotated to BDC with cams installed at their TDC position?

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Where did get BDC out of what people have been trying to tell you in this thread? Read more beter

    Pull tbelt
    Rotate crank 60deg backward
    Do werk
    Right before you slip the tbelt back on, rotate crank forward 60deg and put lock pin in.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Read before top dead center as bdc

    So rotating back wards is to prevent valve-piston contact during install

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Also sorry to thread jack op

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings MacDaddy's Avatar
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    Oh man this guy is gonna end up with one fucked engine after reading all this.
    the B5 S4 is like the mafia... there is only one way out!

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings cjt671's Avatar
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    Or this guy takes forum posts with a grain of salt and will likely follow the outlined Bentley procedure

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
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    The bentley is fked in this area, but should get you through.
    Def dont use it to put the chains on
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

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