Rear Coilver Adjustment

[SilverRings]

I am having trouble finding where a link may be for this. Searched on a few things, but coming back empty. Is there a writeup on what needs to happen, with some pictures, of the rear subframe bolts? I think you have to basically lossen the bolts and hang the subframe, then you can reach the rear coilover adjustment, right? I need to get a visual on what needs to be done there.

Thanks guys.

[jran76]

I am having trouble finding where a link may be for this. Searched on a few things, but coming back empty. Is there a writeup on what needs to happen, with some pictures, of the rear subframe bolts? I think you have to basically lossen the bolts and hang the subframe, then you can reach the rear coilover adjustment, right? I need to get a visual on what needs to be done there.

Thanks guys.

The KW rear adjustment is on the upper portion of the spring, so you should just be able to lift the car and make the adjustment. It's easy to get to, and you just need to take the load off the spring. It's the purple piece on top of the spring in the below pic.

[zcspec]

By default, there is a good amount of load on the rear springs of the S4. Unfortunately, you'll need to drop the rear sub-frame to reduce the load on the springs. The process is rather easy (since I've performed like 20+ adjustments on the rear). Each side will have 2 main sub-frame to chassis bolts and 2 smaller sub-frame bolts.

Here is a link to the KW install by ECS Tuning. They actually did a very good write-up which I used a while back and still reference when I need torque specs.

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...horizontal.pdf

Good luck, it's really not difficult at all, just slightly time consuming.

[jran76]

By default, there is a good amount of load on the rear springs of the S4. Unfortunately, you'll need to drop the rear sub-frame to reduce the load on the springs. The process is rather easy (since I've performed like 20+ adjustments on the rear). Each side will have 2 main sub-frame to chassis bolts and 2 smaller sub-frame bolts.

Here is a link to the KW install by ECS Tuning. They actually did a very good write-up which I used a while back and still reference when I need torque specs.

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...horizontal.pdf

Good luck, it's really not difficult at all, just slightly time consuming.

I thought I was able to adjust my ST's without loosening the subframe. I don't know, it was a long time ago now.... The Stasis/Ohlins adjustment was on the bottom which was a pain, and I just remember the ST's being easy in comparison.

[boro92]

Noooo. The kw collars have a spot for a big allen wrench. You fit the wrench through the spring and adjust the collar. The wrench is used to keep the collar from spinning when you use the spanner to adjust the spring up and down. Super easy. No need to loosen subframe. It will not adjust if you do not use the allen wrench. You will see what i mean when you pull a wheel off and look at the upper collar.

[zcspec]

True, you can still adjust the sleeves with the spanner wrenches without dropping the frame, but good luck on that one. I guarantee you, it is not easy: you're fighting the compression of the spring. Personally, I find it easier to simply drop the sub-frame than trying to turn the spanner wrenches 90* at a time. The sleeves adjust at a ratio of 4:1/4, meaning, every 4 complete turns is 1/4" of an inch. Imaging turning to raise or lower your coils by 1/2".

[Rocket Tech]

Clean everything really well then try applying some anti seize to the threads in the direction you want the collar to move.

[SilverRings]

zcspec and Rocket tech, thanks for the ideas there.

[Li ls4]

No need to drop the sub-frame imo. What i do is just unbolt the bottom strut and the lower sway bar endlink and take the adjustable perch out. It doesnt take much effort to get it out. Then i adjust it where i want it and put it back in and put the 2 bolts back in and done. IMO this way is a lot fast because your not sitting there doing a 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time in that tight space and it makes it easier to set both rear perches exactly the same.

[SteveYem]

The H&R Street Performance coilovers have the adjustment point at the bottom. See below photo. Raise the wheel off the ground and use a hex key/driver to turn the bottom piece that faces the ground. In my experience the tension of the spring is sufficient to keep the collar in place while I turn the threaded part. It's nice that the wheel does not have to come off to make the adjustment.

[zcspec]

No need to drop the sub-frame imo. What i do is just unbolt the bottom strut and the lower sway bar endlink and take the adjustable perch out. It doesnt take much effort to get it out. Then i adjust it where i want it and put it back in and put the 2 bolts back in and done. IMO this way is a lot fast because your not sitting there doing a 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time in that tight space and it makes it easier to set both rear perches exactly the same.

Humm....I will have to look into this and try it for the next set of coilovers I install.

[SilverRings]

It looks like my KW adjustment is on the top? Would your suggestion work for me, or is mine different?
20151217_164439.jpg

[jran76]

It looks like my KW adjustment is on the top? Would your suggestion work for me, or is mine different?
20151217_164439.jpg

I would try this first:

Clean everything really well then try applying some anti seize to the threads in the direction you want the collar to move.

Noooo. The kw collars have a spot for a big allen wrench. You fit the wrench through the spring and adjust the collar. The wrench is used to keep the collar from spinning when you use the spanner to adjust the spring up and down. Super easy. No need to loosen subframe. It will not adjust if you do not use the allen wrench. You will see what i mean when you pull a wheel off and look at the upper collar.

If that doesn't work, try this:

No need to drop the sub-frame imo. What i do is just unbolt the bottom strut and the lower sway bar endlink and take the adjustable perch out. It doesnt take much effort to get it out. Then i adjust it where i want it and put it back in and put the 2 bolts back in and done. IMO this way is a lot fast because your not sitting there doing a 1/4 or 1/2 turn at a time in that tight space and it makes it easier to set both rear perches exactly the same.

If that doesn't work, your last option is this:

By default, there is a good amount of load on the rear springs of the S4. Unfortunately, you'll need to drop the rear sub-frame to reduce the load on the springs. The process is rather easy (since I've performed like 20+ adjustments on the rear). Each side will have 2 main sub-frame to chassis bolts and 2 smaller sub-frame bolts.

Here is a link to the KW install by ECS Tuning. They actually did a very good write-up which I used a while back and still reference when I need torque specs.

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...horizontal.pdf

Good luck, it's really not difficult at all, just slightly time consuming.

Any of the above should work, and all are specific to any KW/ST coilover (and the KW HAS).

[jran76]

I personally try not loosen the subframe for a couple of reasons. First, it's just more likely to cause alignment problems if something doesn't go back together right. Second, all the bolt are technically one time use bolts (stretch, torque to yield, whatever....), and should be replaced anytime they are loosened or removed. I know most places probably loosen the subframe to install coilovers and at the end of the day it's probably fine, but I try to limit the amount of things that can go wrong. It's fully possible to install (or adjust) most coilovers without doing so.

[zcspec]

jran76, Good photo...you can adjust the sleeves using the provided spanner wrenches. The main issue you're going to run into, is again, the compression of the spring. It's extremely difficult due to the resistances and the fact that the sleeves do not spin freely. You'll only be able to turn them about 1/8-1/4 of a turn each time.

Try using some of the methods others posted here. You already know my method and I have no issues with rear end alignment or the bolts snapping, etc. I generally torque to spec.

[Rocket Tech]

Just adjusted my rear coilovers; the adjusters are at the top of the spring. It was a bit of a pita but once I found which holes to use I could crank half a turn at a time, pretty quick to hit 1/4" of ride height change. I was going in the lowering direction so not working against the spring but the preload on the spring was so light I could push it back and forth with my hands.

OP your springs may be just as lightly loaded. I'm also of the school that you shouldn't lower your subframe unless you plan to get another alignment. You might find by shortening your wrenches that you can get more turn each time but there's so much stuff down there about 3/4 of a turn is likely the most you'll be able to get. Took me about 20 minutes to raise the car and get it done but I just installed the coilovers a few days ago so everything's still clean and easy to move. Make sure the threads are all clean before adjusting as any dirty wedged in there will definitely make it harder to turn.

[GRUMPY-S4]

My ST was installed today and with a scissor jack you can remove load from spring to adjust

[Rocket Tech]

My ST was installed today and with a scissor jack you can remove load from spring to adjust

You put the jack between the body and the lower control arm to push the load off? Or you mean you raise the car and let the suspension droop, thus taking load off the spring?

[GRUMPY-S4]

To install the spring we lifted car and used the scissor jack to raise the rotor and hence reduce load on spring and clamped the spring compressed

[SilverRings]

Guys, I revisited this when we finally got a warm day. I jacked up the rear of the car, and saw the KW adjustment on top. Using the spanners, to turn the adjustment resulted in the black threads also spinning at the same time. So, it was not traveling the threads. Is there a way to block or stop the inside threads from turning with the metal ring/spanner adjustments?

[AudBoost]

Guys, I revisited this when we finally got a warm day. I jacked up the rear of the car, and saw the KW adjustment on top. Using the spanners, to turn the adjustment resulted in the black threads also spinning at the same time. So, it was not traveling the threads. Is there a way to block or stop the inside threads from turning with the metal ring/spanner adjustments?

Jran quoted this in post #13:

The kw collars have a spot for a big allen wrench. You fit the wrench through the spring and adjust the collar. The wrench is used to keep the collar from spinning when you use the spanner to adjust the spring up and down. Super easy. No need to loosen subframe. It will not adjust if you do not use the allen wrench. You will see what i mean when you pull a wheel off and look at the upper collar.

[Mat@1975]

Guys, I revisited this when we finally got a warm day. I jacked up the rear of the car, and saw the KW adjustment on top. Using the spanners, to turn the adjustment resulted in the black threads also spinning at the same time. So, it was not traveling the threads. Is there a way to block or stop the inside threads from turning with the metal ring/spanner adjustments?

Yes !

The black threaded piece have a 10 mm hex socket in it !

The simplest way is to set up your own tool: a 10 mm alen straight bit on a 10 mm hex driver + 250 mm extension + rachet wrench
you can insert the bit + extention by the bottom of the spring support (there is a hole) then plug the rachet wrench.

Then you maintain the purpule part with the spanner wrenche and use the rachet wrench to set up your ride height in a verry fast way !

I don't think i was verry clear since English is not my native langage...

I will take pics of my tool soon if you want.

BR

Mat

[SilverRings]

Yes !

The black threaded piece have a 10 mm hex socket in it !

The simplest way is to set up your own tool: a 10 mm alen straight bit on a 10 mm hex driver + 250 mm extension + rachet wrench
you can insert the bit + extention by the bottom of the spring support (there is a hole) then plug the rachet wrench.

Then you maintain the purpule part with the spanner wrenche and use the rachet wrench to set up your ride height in a verry fast way !

I don't think i was verry clear since English is not my native langage...

I will take pics of my tool soon if you want.

BR

Mat

Thank you for the post, I welcome pics of what you have.

The kw collars have a spot for a big allen wrench. You fit the wrench through the spring and adjust the collar. The wrench is used to keep the collar from spinning when you use the spanner to adjust the spring up and down. Super easy. No need to loosen subframe. It will not adjust if you do not use the allen wrench. You will see what i mean when you pull a wheel off and look at the upper collar.

I was looking for this place to put an allen wrench, but didn't see it. Where am I looking for this and what does it look like? Are we sure that the KW rears have this?

[Mat@1975]

Thank you for the post, I welcome pics of what you have.

Better than pics !! :



Exactly what i use.
Did it a lots of times, no problems. The longer part is to jack the car and take off the wheels.

Best regards,

Mathieu

[AudBoost]

I was looking for this place to put an allen wrench, but didn't see it. Where am I looking for this and what does it look like? Are we sure that the KW rears have this?

It will be hard to see because the spot for the allen wrench is in the middle of the spring. Since your collar sits on the top of the spring you will need a 90 degree allen wrench to get to it or a really long extension. If you look at the pic below of the H&R setup look at the very bottom of the spindle that the collar sits on. See how it has a spot for an allen wrench? Same idea on the KW setup except it will be at the top in the middle of the spring.



EDIT: Mat posted a perfect video above

[SilverRings]

Mat and AudBoost, this is great and what I needed. This method worked perfectly. Thanks!