Wheel Stud Torquing

[AudiSportB5S4]

I ordered wheel studs from Apex Competition / Track-Studs per a few reviews on here and across other forums on the net. I am happy with the order, but have a question about torquing the studs. They recommend 15-20lbs, and they recommend you tighten them by first tightening them by hand, then backing two nuts up against each other and then tightening the outer nut which will turn the stud in. My question is how critical do you think it is to measure the torque being applied? 15-20 pounds isn't very much torque. My torque wrench I use on my wheels sucks at anything too low.

PS - we complain about ECS shipping charges (not me personally), but Apex charges an arm and a leg! $18 for ground shipping and they sent it SMARTPOST which isn't even the ground service it's the cheapest option. Was a little taken back by that... Would rather they just charge me a little more and say shipping is what it costs them. Oh well.

[CELison]

hey you're still around!

[AudiSportB5S4]

hey you're still around!

Still around.. Car still drives great, K04s and the engine are showing no signs of giving up anytime soon (70k/156k miles on each respectively), so I'm stuck doing small things like wheel studs to make me feel like I really have a race car. I have to do my headliner next month, which will probably suck a little but oh well.

How's the B8? I have a B8 A4 with the most garbage sounding 2 liter engine ever created.

[CELison]

I love my b8 as a daily. But it doesn't have the personality of a b5. I need to finish mine

[jaychen]

I ordered wheel studs from Apex Competition / Track-Studs per a few reviews on here and across other forums on the net. I am happy with the order, but have a question about torquing the studs. They recommend 15-20lbs, and they recommend you tighten them by first tightening them by hand, then backing two nuts up against each other and then tightening the outer nut which will turn the stud in. My question is how critical do you think it is to measure the torque being applied? 15-20 pounds isn't very much torque. My torque wrench I use on my wheels sucks at anything too low.

PS - we complain about ECS shipping charges (not me personally), but Apex charges an arm and a leg! $18 for ground shipping and they sent it SMARTPOST which isn't even the ground service it's the cheapest option. Was a little taken back by that... Would rather they just charge me a little more and say shipping is what it costs them. Oh well.

Pretty sure the idea behind wheel studs is you turn them in and then the torque of the nut on the wheel is what really holds it in. personally i'd just run some locktite and put them and do them up fucking tight. wouldn't worry too much to be honest.. i didnt even use locktite on my last set and they were fine..

[mauromj]

Pretty sure the idea behind wheel studs is you turn them in and then the torque of the nut on the wheel is what really holds it in. personally i'd just run some locktite and put them and do them up fucking tight. wouldn't worry too much to be honest.. i didnt even use locktite on my last set and they were fine..

Agreed. I would personally thread them in hand tight with red loc-tite. This is what I did on my studs.

[JVD]

Same as above.

Thread in until tight with loctite. Don't go crazy because you'll just mash up the hub threads on with the unthreaded part of the studs.

I've also seen someone drill the hub holes out ever so slightly and press in ARP studs. That way you don't need to worry about torque or the studs pulling out with the nuts when you're taking the wheels off. That's frustrating as hell!

[AudiSportB5S4]

Alright cool, thanks guys.

I've also seen someone drill the hub holes out ever so slightly and press in ARP studs. That way you don't need to worry about torque or the studs pulling out with the nuts when you're taking the wheels off. That's frustrating as hell!

That sounds terrible. I think with the red locktite and tightening them a fair amount they won't budge unless I really was intending on removing them.

[audacity]

if they are anything like the lug bolts they won't come out with the nut. for whatever reason mine are constantly rusted in place.

[julex]

they rust into place anyway, just hand tighten them and then use a wrench to lightly torque them into place, with red loctite applied to threads of course. More critical is to use some kind of anti seize on the nuts when you put wheels on these to ensure that future caked-on nuts don't thread out the stud when you remove wheels.