4.2 V8 swap subframe Question

[spinnin_four]

what is the general consensus of subframe fitment when swapping to the 4.2 v8?

Does it clear or need to be cut and welded back up to clear the oil pan?

Ive seen a lot of build threads with people having no fitment issues, while others having to cut a large section out and reweld it back

I will be using 034 Motorsport Billet C5 V8 mounts if that matters, any help appreciated

[Nollywood]

It depends.

With my early 32V swaps, I just ground the webbing off the rear of the oil pan.

With my early 40V swap, nothing was cut or ground. This was a B2 90 Quattro though.

With my current 40V swap, I had to remove quite a large section of the subframe to clear the oil pan. This is because I'm running a late 40V from a 2005 A8 D3. This shares its block with the C5 RS6, so the oil pan is much deeper and wider to match the block. I am running aluminium billet Motorsport mounts by Vibratechnics.

Does YOUR subframe require notching to run a C5 V8 motor? I would say no. It's worth noting V8 mounts (both stock and the rest) ARE shorter than B5 ones. I have no idea what your aluminium mounts were modelled upon, but IF they are V8 specific, you are most likely to run into oil pan / subframe clearance issues. I would replace them with stock B5 or aluminium billet items which ARE B5 specific (taller).

[spinnin_four]

thanks for the reply!

I will have to measure the height of mine and compare to stock and 1.8t. its not a big deal if i have to cut and weld, i would just rather do it now while subframe is out and have everything ready to go, so when i am installing i dont have any setbacks. :)

[bhusted]

I don't have any interference problems with the subframe on my swap. I'm using the ART 40v and stock V6 subframe.

[T.Hell]

I´m using on my 4.2 40V swap the A6 C5 V6 subframe and 5mm washers. Maybe even could go without those washers, but taking it safe for now.

But I have to ask bhusted about his swap. Have anyone else noticed that your engine seems to be a little more back in the engine bay than "normal"? I just cut my front piece (where headlights and radiator goes) and noticed that I had to make room for those timing belt covers to make it fit, and so did Nollywood. But you didn´t. Why is that?
I haven´t had a chance to test fit my radiator yet, but seems that you have much more space between the engine and radiator than I´m going to have.

Edit: Here is a PHOTO of that cutting.

[bhusted]

I'm not sure why mine fit without cutting. I don't think I did anything different. On another note, do you have wood flooring in your garage?

[walky_talky20]

T.Hell - are you running spacer (like the B5 S4) between the engine and trans?

[Nollywood]

There's more space between my radiator and engine than pictures show. Enough to run a pair of slimline 10" puller fans.

[king84]

32v ABZ grinding.




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[T.Hell]

On another note, do you have wood flooring in your garage?

Lol, you are not the first who asks me about that floor the previous owner of the house did some wood work or something in the garage, so he put that plastic carpet in there. It´s not the best choice for the floor, but since there is no possibility to use water, I left it there. And it´s quite easy to keep clean, if the car leaks oil or something

And no, I don´t have any spacer.

I just thought that if the engine is little more back in the engine bay, it helps with the clearence between engine and subframe. But in the other hand, the distance between engine mounts and transmission mounts should be same in all swaps, so it has an effect on many things.
But I don´t want to mess this thread too much with this, so no more of that