Lack of fuel problem

[bdwilly]

I bought a 1996 A4 Quattro in August. I sent it off to have the upper and lower oil pan replaced, the radiator replaced and the passenger side sway bar stabilizer replaced. After that I found out the fuel pump wasn't working so I replaced the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump and the wiring and fuel line from the catch (lid) to the fuel pump- as well as the fuel filter. The fuel pump can be heard working so I am confidant that I am good to there- the mechanic did not check to see .The car will start and run if you feed fluid into the intake, but I am getting no fuel to the fuel rail at this point after changing everything but the fuel line from the filter to the fuel rail. Is there any way to clear that or check to see if it is clear- or is it just better to replace it? Like I said I have had this since August and not had the chance to drive it yet.

[bdwilly]

Update - I tested the fuel pump by hooking a 12v up directly in the trunk and the pump ran, as did the car. Fired right up and ran great. When I tested the relay panel underneath the screw does not show 12v, so my suspicion is that the relay panel is not getting 12v but only where the fuel pump relay plugs in. The fuse for it looks good. The only thing on the fuse panel that doesn't show as getting power is the two fuses on the far right of the panel- the diagrams show a 30 amp on top but mine is a 20 amp. Anyone have any suggestions?

[bdwilly]

Upon further review... I tested the fuel pump relay bolt (underneath the relay) when turning on the key and it showed 12v for the timeframe that the pump could be heard to run. Knowing that 12v were leaving from there to the pump I removed the pump cover in the trunk and pulled the plug on the top of the fuel pump cover. I tested the plug on the two wires that I know run to the fuel pump (hopefully I can figure out how to load the pictures) and they tested at continuity and then when the key was turned at 12v for the same duration that the pump ran for before when I tested the fuel pump relay bolt. It then turned off to only continuity for a couple seconds then back on- so 'here is some fuel to start the car and then wait and now here is some fuel to keep the car running.' So far so good. There are two other posts on that same plug and they also test for continuity before the key is turned but they only go to 6v when I turn the key and then they go back to continuity. I am guessing that these are my issue somehow- that a. they provide the feedback to something in the computer and that is why the fuel doesn't leave the tank or b. they are part of the process to pump fuel and they don't get enough juice to do their job. The first two posts are the ones I jumped with a 12v hookup to get the car to run before. While this tells me something I am not sure what. The wires look intact on this plug and they are not brittle or broken or burnt. What's next? If it is tracing the circuit for this connection does anyone have a schematic that tells me where these wires run through the car so I don't have to flail around looking for them? I am also going to get a code tester and reset any codes that may appear- to see if that is my issue. Now to try and load the pictures.

So the Audi 1 picture is the top of the catch and the two posts on the left and bottom of the picture are what was jumpered to make the pump run. I don't know what the other two do.
The Audi 2 picture is the plug. The two slots on the bottom are the ones used to run the pump at start up and test to 12v when the key is turned and while the starter is engaged. The other two, on the top, are the corresponding slots for the posts that I can't figure out. They test as having continuity and go to 6v when the starter is engaged. Hopefully someone can shed some light on this issue.
I'll look forward to replies.

[bdwilly]

I used a code tester and show no codes at this time. The dash has a flashing water temp and oil light (which went off when I bypassed the fuel pump power supply) and the "ln2" code flashing under the odometer.

[bdwilly]

Update- I worked with a friend who is an engineer and an electrician- and after two hours he threw up his hands because the car started once and then we couldn't replicate it after that It was then I realized that I had reversed the wires when I rigged the catch lid to my other car bypassing the Audi wiring. In other words I hooked the positive to the negative and negative to positive and the car started. So my determination is that the mechanic reversed the wires on the top of the fuel pump. So I get to pull the fuel lump today and change those wires around.
This brings me to the next problem=- how do I detach the fuel line from the return line from the bottom of the catch? It is just a black plastic collar and I don't want to break it but it has to come off or I can't get the fuel pump out. Anyone??

[bdwilly]

Well it took :45 minutes to change over the fuel pump wires and we have a running, driving 1996 Audi A4 Quattro. It may have a a leak in the transmission pan but that downer will have to wait until tomorrow. Tonight I am sitting back and being happy- drove it for 8 miles and all the temps and pressures stayed rock solid.
I can start cleaning it in the morning. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions and help along the way.