I have a set of structurally sound but cosmetically beat-up AG M510 wheels laying around which are basically zero value to me, so I am kicking around the idea of a DIY repair and paint job using the OEM 'Titanium' wheel color code L7YP. It could be a fun winter project. I am looking for any tricks/tips for how to achieve a final result with that silver-ish sheen that the OEM Ti wheels have in certain lighting (example below on B7 RS4 style wheel). Is it sufficient to apply a few coats of paint tinted L7YP, or is it necessary to apply some kind of clear coat or matte/clear coat as the final?

I read in this thread (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...um-package-RS4) , post #13, that the guy used "matte flattener" as his top coat, but I have never heard of that and am not sure exactly what it is or how it works. I am looking to achieve the same color result that he did, so therefore I'm interested to know what this "matte flattener" is all about.




My proposed steps are as follows:

1) Repair all curb damage and nicks/pits with metal filler (likely Bondo) and sand to match surrounding wheel contour
2) Thoroughly clean the wheels
3) Thoroughly sand all front surfaces of the wheels to be painted - Need Input....what grit sandpaper should I use?
4) Thoroughly clean and dry wheels
5) Apply one light coat of color to the wheels (light enough to not fully cover)
6) Apply second light coat of color to the wheels (enough to achieve uniform color coating)
7) Lightly sand all painted surfaces to prepare for next paint coat - Need Input.....what grit sandpaper should I use?
8) Thoroughly clean and dry wheels
9) Apply first "wet coat" of color to the wheels (enough to achieve uniform coating)

Here is where I need some help (if not already!). Do I sand and coat the wheels again (i.e. apply a second "wet coat")? And is it necessary to apply the "matte flattener" on top of the last color coat, or will the L7YP color coat achieve the matte sheen affect that the OEM wheels have?

Thanks in advance for any help,