so this is a little new. a little scary.. pics inside

[das4]

so I went to replace the OEM TBB with the 034. this is what I found:



fresh oil inside the driver side charge pipe. I went under the car to inspect the turbo and I saw this:

closeup of the driver side banjo bolt


and

burnt oil on the bottom of the turbo housing


I installed these exactly as outlined, torqued to spec, primed the turbos. it's only the driver side K04 that seems to have some sort of internal seal leak and external supply leak from the banjo. all crush washers were brand new. what gives? my heart sank. is this normal??

[DieselElectric]

Stock pcv system?

[das4]

yes sir. I installed a brand new one with the build

[bobkatkat]

yes sir. I installed a brand new one with the build

I think what DE was referring is that a stock PCV system (new or not) will quickly be overwhelmed by over stock boost. First sign is oil collecting in the drivers side piping and intercooler. What is with all the grit in the photo?

[das4]

it's from the old TBB. I cleaned everything up pretty damn well. anything I took off, I decreased and sprayed with brake parts cleaner or throttle body cleaner. much better now. I was surprised with the oil, because when I had the engine out, I cleaned inside every piece of plumbing there is. I haven't even driven the car on the road yet. it hasn't been boosted under load so when you say the stock PCV system can't handle over boost, it hasn't even been subjected to large amounts of pressure yet. I'm telling you these turbos are brand spankin new. how could it be leaking this soon, this much internally? and the external leak: only thing I found on that was some guy who had an identical type of leak. I guess his stemmed from the supply coupler that attaches to the turbo. is that likely my issue? is that common?

my goal in this build wasn't just to have power. I want it 1) without leaks of any kind and 2) without sacrificing OEM type quality. I want to get this sorted out before I completely install axles and drop it for a TD. don't want to damage any components

[bobkatkat]

it's from the old TBB. I cleaned everything up pretty damn well. anything I took off, I decreased and sprayed with brake parts cleaner or throttle body cleaner. much better now. I was surprised with the oil, because when I had the engine out, I cleaned inside every piece of plumbing there is. I haven't even driven the car on the road yet. it hasn't been boosted under load so when you say the stock PCV system can't handle over boost, it hasn't even been subjected to large amounts of pressure yet. I'm telling you these turbos are brand spankin new. how could it be leaking this soon, this much internally? and the external leak: only thing I found on that was some guy who had an identical type of leak. I guess his stemmed from the supply coupler that attaches to the turbo. is that likely my issue? is that common?

my goal in this build wasn't just to have power. I want it 1) without leaks of any kind and 2) without sacrificing OEM type quality. I want to get this sorted out before I completely install axles and drop it for a TD. don't want to damage any components

After multiple engine and turbo pulls and always having the odd little oil or coolant leak, i finally got a great tip from ZillaRob on here and the is to use copper gasket maker spray on all the banjo fittings, aluminum and copper washers. Works like a charm. Thanks again Rob.

[Mark00s4]

After multiple engine and turbo pulls and always having the odd little oil or coolant leak, i finally got a great tip from ZillaRob on here and the is to use copper gasket maker spray on all the banjo fittings, aluminum and copper washers. Works like a charm. Thanks again Rob.

This is a great tip,I've used this for a couple different applications works great.

[das4]

that zillarob I tell ya. I wish I'd have heard of that before throwing her all back together.. this is my first and with it comes an education for sure. I guess when I inevitably end up pulling it again, I'll be sure to use that. keeping this car for life so I'm guessing 8 more pulls minimum. should be a damn master when my joints are too old to pull anymore. are the thoughts on the internal oil leak that this is normal? I haven't even put a mile on them, on the road. they HAVE run for about 30 minutes total as its up in the air

[zillarob]

I think you have been too busy posting new threads when you should have been busy reading others

This is an excellent example of how a build thread should be done by somebody that doesnt build cars everyday.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...61-s-K24-Build

[das4]

I think you have been too busy posting new threads when you should have been busy reading others

This is an excellent example of how a build thread should be done by somebody that doesnt build cars everyday.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...61-s-K24-Build

yep, no doubt could've read/known more prior to building. I guess that's why an novice, like myself, posts at the beginning/mid thread for input along the way. my mistake: not "engaging" people as well as others have with a pre-build list and pictures.

others do a great job advertising their build which naturally catches attention of those experienced, and not and leads to great tips and advice from others who have done that before.

so while I do agree, I could have read more, your comment isn't entirely taken to heart as many others hadn't read as much as they could have either. they just marketed their build better than I did. it's possible to always learn more, especially about such a complex, fickle car like the B5.

appreciate your input, but it was a bit condescending. I'm just an S4 fanatic trying to build a car to keep for life.

[zillarob]

I thought if you put one of those smiley things in there it made it ok? Like saying "with all due respect".



Youre prob right though, that did seem half assholish

I think you nailed it on the pros of doing a thread like that. This is prob redundant/not applicable here now, but Ill add a few more for others down the road.
The main thing was making it easy for people to help by having everything consolidated in a single thread.
If one issue could be related to another, it was right there without having to track down another thread.
A clear list of what he was working with.
Lots of pics helps to identify small probs before they became large probs.
Was responsive to feedback/tips. People will continue to help when they see they are not just wearing out the kb.

Again, not directed at you, but Ill include some of the red flag items to round things out.
Pics of things getting bolted together that werent even clean enough to take apart. This is a non-starter, its already too late.
Not being responsive to advice. Ignoring the "dont use that" or "dont do it that way" ones often leads to a "why my shit fkd up" thread.


OT ramblings aside, how much is leaking?
It is not uncommon for the oils they put on them for corrosion prevention to run down when they warm up.
This usually burns off pretty quickly and causes no further issues.

If one of those banjos is leaking, that is not a fun one to address.
There is no way to torque them all properly. This is an experience/luck thing.
I hope it isnt this, they can be a major pita to get wrapped up.

[das4]

I thought if you put one of those smiley things in there it made it ok? Like saying "with all due respect".



Youre prob right though, that did seem half assholish

I think you nailed it on the pros of doing a thread like that. This is prob redundant/not applicable here now, but Ill add a few more for others down the road.
The main thing was making it easy for people to help by having everything consolidated in a single thread.
If one issue could be related to another, it was right there without having to track down another thread.
A clear list of what he was working with.
Lots of pics helps to identify small probs before they became large probs.
Was responsive to feedback/tips. People will continue to help when they see they are not just wearing out the kb.

Again, not directed at you, but Ill include some of the red flag items to round things out.
Pics of things getting bolted together that werent even clean enough to take apart. This is a non-starter, its already too late.
Not being responsive to advice. Ignoring the "dont use that" or "dont do it that way" ones often leads to a "why my shit fkd up" thread.


OT ramblings aside, how much is leaking?
It is not uncommon for the oils they put on them for corrosion prevention to run down when they warm up.
This usually burns off pretty quickly and causes no further issues.

If one of those banjos is leaking, that is not a fun one to address.
There is no way to torque them all properly. This is an experience/luck thing.
I hope it isnt this, they can be a major pita to get wrapped up.

I'm usually not that sensitive, haha.. sorry I can typically let things roll of pretty damn easily, I think I'm just uber uptight because it's a "sh*t, how am I going to fix this without pulling the engine", thought. your advice is absolutely spot on: I should have worked with all knowledge posted on many of the detailed threads given the money and time put into a quality stage 3 build. trust me, pretty much anything you've thrown out, I've run with as its been spot on up to this point.

it's not a horrible amount in the DS charge pipe, but enough to take notice. I removed it, resprayed inside and out with cleaner, wiped it down, and dried. I also took the intercooler off and cleaned it out. I'll pull them both after putting 5-10 miles under boost and normal stage 3 type driving. I'll pull them and see what's in there and pass my findings along. the banjo: I feel this may be a pain in the arscloch to fix. I don't want to torque it down anymore as its pretty fitted and can't get to anything other than that line to coupler. unless I can find the worlds smartest pigmy marmoset that can turn a wrench, I may be fixing this one when I pull the engine again. having been through it once, it should go smoother. I'll spray the banjos from below with the axle shaft out and see if the leak persists. good news: I got most of the silicone hoses swapped in and it's boosting/revving/sounding bad ass. I do like the way it's generally coming together. thanks for all the help along the way!

[killerkali]

Zilla is the most helpful guy ive ran into on here

[das4]

^^for sure. knows his ish without a doubt

[vavJETTAw36]

Correct me if I am wrong, you shouldn't have to pull the engine to retighten. At the most you'd need to undo the engine enough to pull it forward enough to get to.


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