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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Cluster / ABS / Coding question...

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    Heyya Azine,

    So after hitting a few snags, I'm finally ready to get the car back on the road. Have a few quick questions...
    Some background info... car was just swapped to 6 speed, and other supporting mods to properly stage 3+ the car as the previous owner half assed a lot of parts.

    1. When I first start the car, I get 3 long beeps. If I remember correctly, this means the ABS module is incorrectly coded correct?

    2. I flashed a base tune file for my car and its mods for the clutch break in. Because the base flash was complete I should not have to complete the reprogramming steps listed in the swap wiki correct?

    Reprogramming

    Ignition on but no start
    Cluster
    Adaption, channel 60, set to 1025 (removes Transmission from CAN Bus)
    Ignition Off
    ABS
    Use Tip login code : 07497, or 07397, 07597
    ReCode to 6spd : 06395
    Ignition Off
    ECU
    If recoding a Tip ECU
    Login with 11463
    Recode to 6spd : 06711
    Ignition off
    Ignition back on
    Clear codes in Cluster, ABS, ECU
    ECU Throttle Body Adaption
    Set Block channel 60
    3. If that is the case, why is my cluster still lit like a Christmas tree? (esp light, abs light, etcetc). I know the tune was successfully written to the ECU as the cluster now says "PRESS CLUTCH PEDAL TO START ENGINE" instead of what it used to say when it was tip.

    Thanks :]

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Are you saying you didnt do what the wiki said to do and are wondering why its christmas time in the audi?

    On a tip, the tcu may control a a few things instead of the ecu.
    They may be trying to communicate with the tcu instead of the ecu like they would in a 6sp.

    A lot of that coding is telling it what is there, and where to go for what info.
    Last edited by zillarob; 01-02-2016 at 12:33 AM.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Are you saying you didnt do what the wiki said to do and are wondering why its christmas time in the audi?

    On a tip, the tcu may control a a few things instead of the ecu.
    They may be trying to communicate with the tcu instead of the ecu like they would in a 6sp.

    A lot of that coding is telling it what is there, and where to go, for what info.

    ^^still have to do this. I need to either by vag com or find someone in Chicago area who can. mine doesn't even display the "press clutch pedal to start" message when turned to on. just shows miles left and all that DIS stuff

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Are you saying you didnt do what the wiki said to do and are wondering why its christmas time in the audi?

    On a tip, the tcu may control a a few things instead of the ecu.
    They may be trying to communicate with the tcu instead of the ecu like they would in a 6sp.

    A lot of that coding is telling it what is there, and where to go for what info.
    Yes. My TCU is gutted, but I was under the assumption that the file I wrote to the ECU would have made everything a 6 speed?

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    xalents23 did a swap and had to code ABS/brakes seperate. also tach. his build thread talks about it:

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...g-45-MPH/page7

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Currently I have the following codes:

    P0106 MAP sensor
    P1649 Data bus powertrain: missing message from ABS ECU
    P1650 Data bus powertrain: missing message cluster ECU
    P1602 Power supply (B+) terminal 30

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Just as the ecu is coded to tell it where to send and receive info, the other modules are also coded to send/receive to/from different places.
    Stuff is prob being sent to mailbox 02 (tcu) when it should be sent to mailbox 01 (ecu).

    Ive never done this swap so dont know much about it, but why do you think you do not need to follow the directions?
    Id plug it in and code stuff as the wiki srates.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Get ready for fun. I helped xalents with his but it's still not completely sorted. I'm a long time software engineer so it shouldn't be hard, but there is a lot of conflicting info out there.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    I tried to plug in the codes on the wiki. Now my cluster is blacked out? Lol

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    See, no more christmas tree!!

    I hope you dont have a fun one. God only knows what parts have been swapped/flashed/coded on these cars throughout the years.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    See, no more christmas tree!!

    I hope you dont have a fun one. God only knows what parts have been swapped/flashed/coded on these cars throughout the years.
    Lmao. Nothing will surprise me at this point anymore. Ran into so many snags.
    Quote Originally Posted by oppositelock View Post
    Get ready for fun. I helped xalents with his but it's still not completely sorted. I'm a long time software engineer so it shouldn't be hard, but there is a lot of conflicting info out there.
    I hope he chimes in. I have the same xtools handheld. What else needs to be done with yours?

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    following this thread because this will soon be my battle. but maybe even more complicated: I have an RS4 cluster. not original to the car obvi, so one more variable thrown into the pot

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Read xalents23's thread. It's all there.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by oppositelock View Post
    Read xalents23's thread. It's all there.
    what issues is xalents having?

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    Yes, read my build thread. I'm having the ABS and traction control light staying on. I tried all the Vagcom coding for the ABS and steering angle sensor calibration. And I still can't get rid of the ABS and traction control light. My car drives and function just fine. Just these two cluster icon/lights won't code out. I've given up on coding it. I even contacted Daz about it and he is just to busy to look at it. Once I find someone who can fix it I'll get it fixed. For now I'm just going to enjoy the car as it. You will need to go through I series of coding via Vagcom and driving the car around until the ABS and traction control light magical disappears.

    The Scan tool will let you code your car. Getting the code to stick and stay is the hard part. Good luck.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erykv1 View Post
    Currently I have the following codes:

    P0106 MAP sensor
    P1649 Data bus powertrain: missing message from ABS ECU
    P1650 Data bus powertrain: missing message cluster ECU
    P1602 Power supply (B+) terminal 30
    For the P1649 fault code you need to code your ABS module. If you scan it you will notice it has no code in the soft coding box in Vagcom.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xalents23 View Post
    For the P1649 fault code you need to code your ABS module. If you scan it you will notice it has no code in the soft coding box in Vagcom.
    Can I do the coding with the xtools handheld or do I need to do it in vcds lite?

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erykv1 View Post
    Can I do the coding with the xtools handheld or do I need to do it in vcds lite?
    I have coded with the xtool it works. You don't need vcds lite. Vagcom is better but not really needed if you know how to use the xtool.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xalents23 View Post
    I have coded with the xtool it works. You don't need vcds lite. Vagcom is better but not really needed if you know how to use the xtool.
    Can you clarify something for me with the xtools? I see the place to enter the login code, but once I'm in, I don't see where I go to recode it to 6 speed?

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    With the xtool you need to pick your coding preference first. Like engine, ABS brakes , instruments...etc. Once in the tab you want to code. You need to check the fault codes. If any clear them and then go to the login field. Enter in the login should be 5 digits. If you enter in the correct code it will say successfully... If you enter in the wrong login it will say failed.... You can get these login codes from the Vagcom website. Then you go into the code module tab and enter in the module code. If you enter in the correct coding it will tell you. You can obtain the coding from the Vagcom site as well. It's basically the same steps as using Vagcom. Hope that helps you out.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    And there will be no such field for the 6-speed swap. You need to basically code all the models to a 6-speed. Instrument cluster, and ABS. It should all be in the tip to 6-speed swap wiki.

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xalents23 View Post
    And there will be no such field for the 6-speed swap. You need to basically code all the models to a 6-speed. Instrument cluster, and ABS. It should all be in the tip to 6-speed swap wiki.
    I was just under the impression that the .bin file in the flash would have taken care of the ECU / instrument cluster... maybe not the ABS.

    If my cluster changed to "press clutch to start engine" shouldn't it mean the cluster was already coded?

    Thank you so much for your input.

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    You need to triple check everything. This recoding stuff is funny. Do everything s4wiki says to do, in that order. As xalents23 says, it doesn't always stick the first time. Be patient and thorough and hopefully you'll get it.

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Alrighty, bumping this old thread to give it some closure.
    I know a few members here have been chasing this issue around for a while. As of this weekend I have successfully recoded the ABS module.
    I was borderline about to change the clock spring / buy a manual ABS module, but luckily I didnt!

    I am going to explain what worked for me, but YMMV:

    Clear All Existing Codes
    Login: 09495
    Coding: 04395

    After entering the above, it actually said "failure to communicate." I was disappointing, but when I went to start the car, the lights were gone!
    No steering sensor calibration was needed.

    The S4 wiki tells you to login using 07495, which is an allroad log-in and incorrect. When logging in, you need to log in as a manual, and recode as a manual.

    Hope this helps. Heres a good page for more info: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...EDS/ASR/ESP%29

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    Glad you got your ABS cluster lights to clear. Did you use vagcom or the xtool to do the coding? I have tried those codes already and still no dice for me.

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xalents23 View Post
    Glad you got your ABS cluster lights to clear. Did you use vagcom or the xtool to do the coding? I have tried those codes already and still no dice for me.
    I used the Xtools handheld. The only thing I did differently this time, was I selected the [03] Antilock Brakes Module first, and logged in / coded from there. Give that a try.

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip with the xtool. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    Coding didn't work for me. Oh well, guess I'll have to change out my ABS module and see if that will work.

  29. #29
    Established Member Two Rings
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    After reading this thread and a few others, and ill be going through this process very soon. If i were to buy a manual ABS and ECU it should be plug and play right? Obviously i want to buy the least possible, but this will clear up any of these problems right?

  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by incontrol7 View Post
    After reading this thread and a few others, and ill be going through this process very soon. If i were to buy a manual ABS and ECU it should be plug and play right? Obviously i want to buy the least possible, but this will clear up any of these problems right?
    I believe any ABS module you install will have to be coded to the appropriate hardware to the car. Some say the EEPROM in the ABS module can only be flashed once. If this is true, any rebuilt module you buy should be "reset" and allowed for a flash.

    But after doing some poking around and reading, all the 5.3 Bosch Modules are re-codable (despite what ross-tech's website says) and shouldn't be a write once affair.

    I may have gotten lucky this past weekend with the Xtools handheld, but I have been chasing this issue for months. I just posted what worked for me in hopes of helping others... I can personally attest to how annoying driving around with a blinking brake light / abs / esp lights are.

    Just keep trying and don't give up if it doesn't write the first time, cause it definitely didn't for me. Took many times of cycling the key on / off & clearing codes before it stuck.

  31. #31
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Cool good to know, I have a laptop and vagcom for when all that happens. I was planning on at least getting the same year ecu for a manual since my ecu has a APR flash.

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings rollerton's Avatar
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    Just FYI; the "tune" or ECU file has nothing do with the other components in the car identifying manual vs automatic. The ECU file contains proper parameters for allowing the engine itself to run properly based on what kind of engine it is "told" it is running, and a few differences for emissions between auto and manual.
    The ABS module needs to be told what kind of transmission is installed to know whether to talk to the TCU or not about traction control so the auto trans knows if the ABS is going to interfere with moving around.
    If you have started ANY kind of coding procedure in the ABS module the lights will stay on until you finish the coding. You may have triggered the ABS function test, and it needs to be completed before the ABS can be recoded. You may also have to do a steering angle sensor calibration along with ABS coding.

    And non of these really have anything to do with cluster coding. The cluster coding is almost entirely about getting the clutch pedal message and displaying the gears in the DIS. If there is any problem or warning indicators it is not from the cluster coding. Though it may 'log' an error if improperly coded.

    There is no limit on coding ANY of the modules, there's no component protection. And replacing ANY of them to get around coding will almost surely be disappointing- very good odds that the coding will not match. And many times (for whatever reason) removing an ABS module and putting it back in the same car will require the login and a steering angle calibration. Possible that disconnecting it from a circuit it's used to triggers a reset, never investigated.
    Bottom line is all of these things take only minutes with a Ross Tech cable ..I don't understand why people avoid buying one for so long when it's capable of ending the issues so easily.
    I mean, $250 for a KII-USB from Ross Tech, 20 minutes and fixed. If you decide it's not worth it Then you sell it for $200 easy and you're out $50 but your problems are fixed.
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