2.7 Cam Chain Replacement/ Cam Chain Tensioner

[tbetlyn]

Hey guys. Figured I'd ask, I'm going to be doing my timing belt and waterpump soon. My seals for the cam chain tensioners are leaking.. Should I get new tensioners and Chains too? Slight rattle at startup sometimes. 180,000 miles on her. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

[jcjohnson33]

Preventive maintenance is always easier and better than corrective maintenance.


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[4rings2turbos]

While you're in there it's a good idea to check the pads, particularly the pads on the bottom of the tensioner. Also check the oil pickup screens to be sure they're no clogged. A little rattle on a cold start for a moment or two is deemed acceptable by Audi. If the tensioners were bad/not receiving oil pressure the rattle wouldn't go away. You can replace chains if you like, they do stretch a little bit over time, they're about 100 bucks a pair. But the tensioners shouldn't ever go bad under normal circumstances.

[a4kamila6]

Id say a tensioner will fail sooner than the timing chains will. If you have the cash to get the oem parts, do it.


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[4rings2turbos]

The chains don't fail but they stretch bringing timing with them. It's not enough to cause damage but it brings the engine out of peak efficiency. Tensioners are a bit pricey to fix what isn't broken anyway.

[JTown77]

I am replacing the tensioner on bank 1, mine looks slightly different than this. Is this the correct diagram?

[4rings2turbos]

I've done this sooo many times and my recommendation is to NOT count links, it's too confusing. ELSApro says to line up the notches with the cap arrows and it's never wrong.

-Exhaust cam notch must be dead on the arrow since it's tied to the crank.

-If your chains are old they'll be slightly stretched so count on the notch being turn just past the cam cap arrows. The notch will NEVER be before the arrow. If it is move the intake cam forward.

-If it's more than a little bit past the arrow then look at the links critically and decide if the notch will be closer to the arrow but not before the arrow if it's as close as possible then you're good! No need to count.

Procedure for later models including the 2.0T uses a measurement range to determine cam timing and there is tolerance. Timing is not necessarily a number of links, it's a distance. Trust the notches and arrows, not the links.

[Arsenal2012]

I've done this sooo many times and my recommendation is to NOT count links, it's too confusing. ELSApro says to line up the notches with the cap arrows and it's never wrong.

-Exhaust cam notch must be dead on the arrow since it's tied to the crank.

-If your chains are old they'll be slightly stretched so count on the notch being turn just past the cam cap arrows. The notch will NEVER be before the arrow. If it is move the intake cam forward.

-If it's more than a little bit past the arrow then look at the links critically and decide if the notch will be closer to the arrow but not before the arrow if it's as close as possible then you're good! No need to count.

Procedure for later models including the 2.0T uses a measurement range to determine cam timing and there is tolerance. Timing is not necessarily a number of links, it's a distance. Trust the notches and arrows, not the links.

Listen to him!

We did mine not to long ago and instead of the counting method we lined up and I just finished a 2800mile trip with no issues.

[4rings2turbos]

Epic trip man, can't wait to get back to work and wrap it up.

[JTown77]

Thanks for the advice!

[JTown77]

So I completed the new bank 1 cam chain tensioner, and the third slot block 91 reads adjustment OFF. What is going on? The engine runs fine and the fourth slot cam adjustment reads -.5 - 0. no CEL I do have a new noise in that bank almost like a hyd. lifter tapping in an old v8.

[4rings2turbos]

Were you careful to not tighten the tensioner compression tool too much? The tensioners can be damaged this way.

[simracer]

I am replacing the tensioner on bank 1, mine looks slightly different than this. Is this the correct diagram?

I realize this thread is a couple of years old, but I have a question about setting up the cams, do you set them up with the appropriate chain roller distance, and notches matching to cap marks with the cam tensioner compressed with the cam tool or at their natural resting position (if such a thing exists)?

I ask because when I replaced the tensioner seals to fix an oil leak onto the exhaust of my 2000 b5 I marked the chains/cam sprokets and thought I got them reinstalled correctly, but my engine now throws

16523 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
            P1579 - 35 - 10 Response too Slow

This code indicates that B1 S2 is not detecting a lean condition (ie excess O2) in the exhaust.

I think this could be because the intake cam is one tooth off.

But when I re-opened the valve cover after locking the engine at TDC, the cam notches were dead on to the cap marks. However, when I compressed the tensioner with my hand, the intake cam was about one roller advanced from the mark.

So my question is this: should the cam notches match the cap marks when the tensioner is compressed, or at it's natural rest position?

thanks and happy Thanksgiving!

Andy