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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
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    Dec 19 2015
    AZ Member #
    366060
    Location
    Lancaster, pa

    A4 clutch bleeding problems

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    Basically my clutch system isn't bleeding and I'm having no resistance in the clutch it just goes directly to the floor. My slave cylinder bleeder screw broke so I replaced it and I tried to bleed it today first by gravity bleeding it which did nothing, then by pumping it and loosening and tightening the screw, air and fluid kept coming out for 15 mins but no clutch resistance. I also put a tube on it and ran it into brake fluid which still didn't work. Should I try to get a vacuum bleeder or try replacing the cylinder? Or just take it to a shop?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings vrmm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 14 2011
    AZ Member #
    83906
    Location
    NW

    I tried to bleed mine after I drained allllllll the fluid out. At first I did the push it to the floor, unscrew it, screw it back in, pull the clutch out, repeat. Shit didn't work. I tried for like 20 minutes. Go to napa and get there 4$ check valve brake bleeder. Its a clear hose, check valve, and another little black hose. You don't need anything fancy. Prior to using that I thought something was broken. It only took a minute or so for it to flow all the way through.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings MrSnickelsnizer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 03 2012
    AZ Member #
    105236
    Location
    michigan

    Push through fluid through with a brake bleeder pump. I have the motive brand. Works very well. Or you can suck fluid through the bleeder screw with a hand pump. I have the mighty vac and it works so so. Or you can open the brake reservoir cap, put car on level ground, unbolt coolant reservoir (for access), put rag under slave cylinder bleeder, use 9mm 6 point socket to loosen bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, and let drain for 2-4 minutes. Keep eye on fluid and do not pump the pedal. That's how you screw stuff up. Very very lightly snug up the bleeder screw. It's only plastic and will strip or seize to the internal threads of the slave. Clutch should be 80-90% bled if you do gravity method and 100% bled if you do either suction or push method. Either will get you rolling. Also make sure the nipple on the brake reservoir going to clutch line is open and not sealed. Just an fyi.
    1998 Audi A4 1.8t Quattro

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings nynoah's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 16 2006
    AZ Member #
    9725
    My Garage
    01.5 A4 avant Past cars: 95 S6, 85 Golf II VR6, 2 sciroccos, 92 Corrado VR6, 86 Euro BMW 535 Alpina
    Location
    LA CA

    These should work too? http://www.speedbleeder.com/

    They look pretty awesome
    2001.5 black on black avant 5spd, EFR 6758, Pag Parts band manifold, Vibrant GESI High flow CAT, 2.0L 06A, IE intake manifold, built AEB head, 1000cc Boosted Euro Tune, bosch 044, Ringer Racing stage 3 hybrid Organic/Cerametalic 240mm clutch, S4 interior upgrade, full S4 brakes front and rear with lines, 17in OZ Racing Ultraleggera, 034 HD suspension arms, Stern soft mounts, mirimoto bixenon etc. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...s-Build-thread

  5. #5
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Dec 19 2015
    AZ Member #
    366060
    Location
    Lancaster, pa

    Quote Originally Posted by MrSnickelsnizer View Post
    Push through fluid through with a brake bleeder pump. I have the motive brand. Works very well. Or you can suck fluid through the bleeder screw with a hand pump. I have the mighty vac and it works so so. Or you can open the brake reservoir cap, put car on level ground, unbolt coolant reservoir (for access), put rag under slave cylinder bleeder, use 9mm 6 point socket to loosen bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, and let drain for 2-4 minutes. Keep eye on fluid and do not pump the pedal. That's how you screw stuff up. Very very lightly snug up the bleeder screw. It's only plastic and will strip or seize to the internal threads of the slave. Clutch should be 80-90% bled if you do gravity method and 100% bled if you do either suction or push method. Either will get you rolling. Also make sure the nipple on the brake reservoir going to clutch line is open and not sealed. Just an fyi.
    I have done the method where you open the bleeder and the reservoir cap and let it sit and nothing had happened. I let it sit for 10 minutes and nothing came out of the bleeder and the fluid level didn't lower

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Senior Member Two Rings MrSnickelsnizer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 03 2012
    AZ Member #
    105236
    Location
    michigan

    Quote Originally Posted by nynoah View Post
    These should work too? http://www.speedbleeder.com/

    They look pretty awesome
    Dude. No. You don't EVER press the clutch pedal while bleeding the clutch. Those may be alright for brakes but not clutches.
    1998 Audi A4 1.8t Quattro

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings bw86's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 06 2008
    AZ Member #
    36039
    My Garage
    2.0L 058
    Location
    LI

    Quote Originally Posted by MrSnickelsnizer View Post
    Dude. No. You don't EVER press the clutch pedal while bleeding the clutch. Those may be alright for brakes but not clutches.
    Say what? I've bled many clutches - more than half being the pump the pedal method. No problems at all - though I bought the motive power bleeder and haven't looked back.

    OP - maybe this guide will help. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ing-101-by-JHM

    2008cc - 6262 - Lugtronic - ID1700Xs - IECVA1s - 605@27psi
    --> first start <--



  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings GOODBYNAAIR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 17 2011
    AZ Member #
    84082
    My Garage
    1973 MG Midget, 1995 F150 302 v8, 2007 A4 Avant 3.2 v6, 2014 Odyssey EX-L
    Location
    Fredneck Maryland

    I did gravity bleed the book says you can and it worked great that was after replacing my slave and line so it was drained out.

    fill up the res open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn and let it drain keep your eye on the res and fill as needed, grab a beer and do this for 30 min. then shut your bleed screw and check your peddle. after the first time it felt good and the car would shift fine but the peddle was coming back up a little slow so I did it again and then it felt great. takes a little time but works when your by yourself.
    SOLD the GOINHAM A4 ---> GT2860 Project

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