Running Lean

[Gotwake424]

I'll try to keep this short and sweet. I've searched and done every related fix I can find or think of.
Car was running fine, replaced b1 s2 oxygen sensor and now i'm running lean on both banks. ( Don't think thats related)
I've been staying out of boost in the mean time but i'd really like to get this taken care of.

At idle and WOT or anything in between my wideband is bouncing from 14.6-15.1 (Vaccum leak maybe)

Replaced the OEM fuel pump with a Walbro 400
Replaced the FPR with a new OEM one
- Did not feel/smell/taste fuel coming out of the vaccum line that goes to the FPR
No Boost leaks, holds pressure the same as it always has
Rails stay pressurized in between running the car and sitting.
Have a Fuel filter on order should be here and installed monday night ( Could mine really be that clogged>??)
Installed new OEM o-rings on my ev14 550's that I got from projectb5.com (not sure what version they are)
- Not using hats or spacers, grinded down the attaching points for rails to have them seat all the way
- They are NOT leaking at all
All 4 02 sensors are new and in working order
-None of them are coded out
All EGT's are working
- None of them are coded out

I am really at a lose, besides some sort of vaccum leak?
Would I be able to hear a vaccum leak when I do my boost tests?
A smoke test machine would make this a lot easier, doubt there are places you can rent those right?

Here is the one and only log i'm going to take with my car running so lean. Hope it helps point in the right direction
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kbgzq7xh29...20918.csv?dl=0

Thanks guy
-Blake

[DieselElectric]

14.6-15.1 isn't bad for idle, I see swings a little tighter, usually 14.3-14.9 or so. What's your fuel trims like? On my phone so I can't see the logs.

What is your AFR doing in open loop?

[DieselElectric]

You're going to hover around stoich (14.7) in closed loop, since the sensors aren't accurate anywhere other than that. They will cycle rich/lean/rich/lean, that's how the ecm keeps it at that point for maximum efficiency.

[Gotwake424]

You're going to hover around stoich (14.7) in closed loop, since the sensors aren't accurate anywhere other than that. They will cycle rich/lean/rich/lean, that's how the ecm keeps it at that point for maximum efficiency.

When I go open loop it stays at 14.7-15
Daz is the first one who noticed it when we were doing some revisions
logs basically show that it stays at 14.7-15 even when at 22psi


Fuel trims are both showing +12.1 ish percent, which makes sense its requestiing more fuel cause its lean

updated my original post to make it a little clearer

[ianwpb]

Do you have a compressor? I made a DIY smoke tester. Got everything at home depot. Get a Gallon Paint can & lid. Drill two holes in the lid. One for the line coming from the compressor and one for the line going out to the car. Light something on fire, I burned a rag, make sure it's smoking before you close the lid. You only need a couple PSI from the compressor to get a nice stream of smoke. Attach your smoke line to whatever you want to smoke test.

Out of curiosity, which downpipe did you install your wideband on?

[ianwpb]

Hmm...

What wideband do you have and how is it wired?

[DieselElectric]

That's very scary for WOT.

Fuel trims definitely indicate a vacuum leak at idle. Odd thing though is that will turn into a boost leak under load, and it should go rich from losing metered air.

If this a fresh build or new issue?

[Gotwake424]

Hmm...

What wideband do you have and how is it wired?

LC-2, Wired to patch into the blue? wire for B2 S2 I belive. The wideband is giving realiable info as far as i know. And it is calibrated. I guess i could always recalibrate it again

[Gotwake424]

That's very scary for WOT.

Fuel trims definitely indicate a vacuum leak at idle. Odd thing though is that will turn into a boost leak under load, and it should go rich from losing metered air.

If this a fresh build or new issue?

Yea it is, im really afraid to drive my car right now

New issue.
Guess im going to have to make a smoke tester.

[ianwpb]

Stupid question, but you did use the 02 sensor that came with the wideband right?

[Gotwake424]

Stupid question, but you did use the 02 sensor that came with the wideband right?

There are no stupid questions when troubleshooting

Yes I used sensor from kit. Only used the connector end from the old sensor. The actual sensor went in the trash


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ianwpb]

What does the wideband read on deceleration in gear? 22.4?

[Gotwake424]

What does the wideband read on deceleration in gear? 22.4?

Yes sir

Could you use a say halloween fog machine as a stand in smoke tester? ( random thought, have one lying around )

[ianwpb]

What side is the wideband on?


The fog machine would probably work.

[Gotwake424]

Whichever side Daz prefers, I'd have to go out to my car to tell you though. Be the same side that yours is on

[ianwpb]

I mean, which side did you install the sensor on?

[Gotwake424]

I mean, which side did you install the sensor on?

passenger side rear o2

[Gotwake424]

Little update: Did a boost leak test for peace of mind. No leaks and hols pressure great

Here is my idle according to my boost guage and wideband.
-My boost gauge is off about 4-5psi as you can see at the end of the video
- But Im pretty sure I still have a vacuum leak

https://www.dropbox.com/s/k7x989ghsy...%20PM.mov?dl=0

Question
- If I were to have a vacuum leak, would not having enough vacuum at the FPR not allow it increase the fuel pressure as I start to make boost? ( like it should when it works properly)

Really wish there was someone in indiana that could help me with this

[Gotwake424]

Going to try and pick up a fuel Gauge tomorrow and put it right before the rails to see what kind of pressure I'm getting there. Anyone have a diagram of the entire fuel system handy? Also what should I expect to see as the pressure right before the rails at idle? 58psi?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jaychen]

Yes sir

Could you use a say halloween fog machine as a stand in smoke tester? ( random thought, have one lying around )

I have tried this before, didn't work for me as it didn't have enough pressure to push the smoke through all the vac hoses.

[jaychen]

Going to try and pick up a fuel Gauge tomorrow and put it right before the rails to see what kind of pressure I'm getting there. Anyone have a diagram of the entire fuel system handy? Also what should I expect to see as the pressure right before the rails at idle? 58psi?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think so. Your manifold will be in vacuum at idle.

at 0psi you should read 4bar.

A bit less on idle, someone please correct me if i'm wrong, though.

[Gotwake424]

I don't think so. Your manifold will be in vacuum at idle.

at 0psi you should read 4bar.

A bit less on idle, someone please correct me if i'm wrong, though.

Worth while to even check that? Or just look for vacuum leaks?

I'm really wanting to see how the fpr actually regulates the fuel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ianwpb]

Is that a mechanical boost gauge? I had an old style mechanical AWE gauge, it went out one night at the track. I have an ECS electronic gauge that I'll have for sale in the next week or so. It's a 45mm so it'll fit in the same spot with no issues. Waiting on my Innovate SCG-1 from Mirza.

[Gotwake424]

Is that a mechanical boost gauge? I had an old style mechanical AWE gauge, it went out one night at the track. I have an ECS electronic gauge that I'll have for sale in the next week or so. It's a 45mm so it'll fit in the same spot with no issues. Waiting on my Innovate SCG-1 from Mirza.

Yes mechanical


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kingofqueenz788]

I have a slight lean condition also.. DaZ was telling me to check the boost controller after I tightened up the clamps on those waistgate lines the car felt a bit faster for some reason I Gota relog it tomorrow n see numbers

[Gotwake424]

I have a slight lean condition also.. DaZ was telling me to check the boost controller after I tightened up the clamps on those waistgate lines the car felt a bit faster for some reason I Gota relog it tomorrow n see numbers

The n75 or you have an mbc?
My n75 is new and waste gate lines are fine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jaychen]

Worth while to even check that? Or just look for vacuum leaks?

I'm really wanting to see how the fpr actually regulates the fuel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Look for vacuum leaks.

[jaychen]

It wouldnt hurt to manually monitor fuel pressure, both at idle and driving.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[Gotwake424]

It wouldnt hurt to manually monitor fuel pressure, both at idle and driving.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Ill be making a smoke tester and probably installing a fuel guage this week
we shall see how this goes

[Gotwake424]

This is going to sound like a very stupid question. If I install a fuel pressure guage between the rail and the "in" fuel line am I going to see the pressure increasing and decreasing with boost?

http://www.myaudis4.com/2015/09/22/t...essure_sensor/

location where I'm going to install this gauge

https://www.ecstuning.com/News/Audi_...1_2002/ES5701/

will this work?

Thank for all the help so far guys, hoping to get this sorted

[jaychen]

From 034's website:

"Please note, this should be installed in the fuel feed line, between the fuel pump and FPR.

IN OTHER WORDS, NOT AFTER THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR WHERE THERE IS ZERO PRESSURE, BUT IN FRONT OF IT, BETWEEN THE REGULATOR AND THE FUEL PUMP, WHERE THE INJECTORS FEED FROM, WHERE THERE IS PRESSURE, SO YOU CAN MEASURE THE PRESSURE WITH THIS GAUGE - MAKE SENSE??!"

[Gotwake424]

From 034's website:

"Please note, this should be installed in the fuel feed line, between the fuel pump and FPR.

IN OTHER WORDS, NOT AFTER THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR WHERE THERE IS ZERO PRESSURE, BUT IN FRONT OF IT, BETWEEN THE REGULATOR AND THE FUEL PUMP, WHERE THE INJECTORS FEED FROM, WHERE THERE IS PRESSURE, SO YOU CAN MEASURE THE PRESSURE WITH THIS GAUGE - MAKE SENSE??!"

THANK YOU

Was confused about how the FPR was actually regulating pressure. This summing it up correctly?

Fuel comes from tank --> into Fuel Pump---> FP pushes fuel at say 50 psi to rails ---> The FPR regulates that pressure to say 40psi by dumping excess fuel back into the tank---> when more vacuum is applied to the FPR it closes the orifice putting less fuel into the return line and increase the rail pressure.

FPR is set at "minimum" pressure for idle, regulates by dumping fuel back into the tank. Pressure that the fuel pump is putting out doesnt change. By "increasing" pressure at the rails the FPR is really just not dumping as much fuel back into the tank via the return line


UPDATE: Think my brake booster line might be the culprit. If I nudge it ever so slightly with my hand up/down or side to side it make a hissing noise. Will have to confirm when all my parts come for the diy smoke machine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Gotwake424]

Update: installed a fuel pressure gauge, waiting on the remote sender so I can see while I'm driving. At idle it's holding 60 psi

Smoke tested it by capping air intake and pulling off the fpr hose and shooting it into there...no leaks that I can see...did it for a solid 30 minutes


I have no idea where to go from here


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jaychen]

I think it should be lower than 60 at idle.

Do you have a spare you can swap in to check?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[Gotwake424]

I think it should be lower than 60 at idle.

Do you have a spare you can swap in to check?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Spare what?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jaychen]

Spare what?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FPR

[Gotwake424]

FPR

I put a brand new fpr last week
Think it could be doa?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jaychen]

I put a brand new fpr last week
Think it could be doa?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You never know. Its worth checking. Ive seen weirder shit happen.

On my old 1.8, my crank gear keyway sheared off causing the piston to touch valves but it did a PERFECT revolution(s) and the timing lined up perfectly. I could not figure my issue out till i ripped the motor down, and there it was.

[Gotwake424]

You never know. Its worth checking. Ive seen weirder shit happen.

On my old 1.8, my crank gear keyway sheared off causing the piston to touch valves but it did a PERFECT revolution(s) and the timing lined up perfectly. I could not figure my issue out till i ripped the motor down, and there it was.

I'll ask a friend if I can borrow a know working one.

Noticed on the drive home, If im idling and press my clutch in the vacuum goes down. say from 18 it goes to say 17
connection?

[jaychen]

Yeah im pretty thats normal. Its something to do with clutch switch activation, daz would know.


Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk