Contemplating custom headlight upgrade

[CyberPMG]

I'm one of the few who have held on to my B6 A4. I've owned it for almost 12 years (bought it CPO from 1st owner early January 2005 w/ 27k miles on it). It just rolled past 314k miles. I've switched over to B6 S4 Bi-Xenon ecodes many years ago, but I've always have been fighting condensation issues. I've done the o-ring fix, but that never seems to resolve the issue. I've also found that the back plastic cover that holds the ballast is very brittle and easily prone to cracking and allowing moisture inside. I've tried all sorts of sealant spray to ensure a solid seal, but I still run into condensation issues. I mainly get the condensation on the passenger side. I believe the added pressure from the larger turbo inlet pipe against the back of the housing is causing the cracks and leaks to occur.

The Bi-Xenon headlights are much deeper than standard Xenon headlights to allow more room for the cut-off beam flap and trigger and for the repositioning of the ballast (into the back cover instead of underneath). Pics for reference....

Standard Xenon:




Bi-Xenon:




You can see from the back view on how much deeper the housing is with the Bi-Xenons. That added depth is slightly pushing into my turbo inlet pipe when installed (small indentation - nothing that would cause collapse of the pipe).

Here's what I'm thinking. I'm looking at the Helix e-codes that already handle the D1S xenon bulb and ballast and can reuse the auto level motors from the original headlights (I would look at getting replacements as one doesn't work anymore and the other one is sticky). I would go back to regular Xenon headlights, and the notch in the back would provide added clearance to the turbo inlet pipe.

Helix Xenon headlights: Clicky click

I've done the lens swap with my Bi-Xenons. I can do a similar lens swap with these (using a 2.5" lens instead of the 3" lens). I believe the same steps apply as I did for the Bi-Xenons.

Here's where I might want to do something different. I'm a fan of LED technology. I've replaced my fog lighs with LEDs. I've installed custom DRL LEDs integrated into the fog light grills and linked to a OEM "Funk" switch in the center console. I have LED city lights and turn signals. I've been careful in choosing LEDs that will generate equal or better light output (lumens) as their original incandescent bulbs and to make sure there's no CAN-BUS error in the center display. This usually results with getting bulbs with built in resistors, or adding external plug and play resistors in order to match the load that the sensors want. Apart from the DRL LED lights and the Depo LED tail lights, you really wouldn't know I had them as they should simply serve the same purpose (but at greater efficiency and use). My thoughts are to use D1S LED bulbs instead of Xenon bulbs.

In doing research, I've found that the D1S bulb generally operates at 35W power and produces between 3100 - 3400 lumens of light output depending on color temperature (5000/6000K down to OEM 4300K). I've found some LED D1S bulbs that provide 3200 lumens with a color temperature of 6000k to 6500k and running either at 30W or 40W. It may require an external resistor and will require some wire splicing for the power. Cost is around the same price as normal D1S Xenon bulbs, but should last a lot longer. Would also require a custom plate on the bottom of the headlight housing to hold the "ballast" and seal up the bottom to prevent any moisture from getting in. I would attempt to do the LED retrofit first before doing any projector lens upgrade.

Link to LED bulb info: Clicky click

Right now, this is all theoretical. Not sure if I want to dive in and try this out yet. Are the Helix headlights true Xenon headlights or modified Halogen headlights. I know others who have worked on doing a Xenon retrofit into Halogen headlights and having issues in the past. Would I have any issues with the Depot headlights first? Would running 40W LED bulbs cause the CAN-BUS sensor to throw a code, or should I consider the 30W version and get an external resistor to handle the sensor?

It seems the measured light output is in the same ballpark as the original Xenon bulbs, so I'm thinking the reflected light through the projector should match. Am I missing anything in my thinking? If this is right, this would be a cheaper solution than OEM Bi-Xenons and possibly equal or maybe better light output? Am I crazy for thinking this?

[ADCS]

Full disclosure, I did not read your entire post.

What I think you would be best off with are OEM single xenons with TRS bi-xenon mini D2S or H1 V7 projectors retrofitted. You will have OEM quality headlights with bi-xenon but with the smaller form factor single xenon enclosures. The TRS bi-xenons are leaps and bounds better than the OEM projectors (singles or bi-xenon).

[ADCS]

You could use eBay ecodes or helix for the retrofit as well but the fit won't be as nice.

[ADCS]

That is a good projector as well but it is much larger than the mini projectors from TRS.

[CyberPMG]

Thing is.... I like the light output from the Bi-Xenons. I drive back roads at night and use the high beams. The visibility is great! I have a set of OEM Xenon headlights. They are the originals that came with the car. I like the European version (ecode) which has a cleaner look. Don't like the look of the US headlights with the reflector removed. Also like the flat gray surround instead of the chrome.

Going to first try a new back cover and sealant on the headlights first to see if that helps before spending on something else. I just don't want this to be a temporary fix.

[CyberPMG]

Do like the idea of the Bosch projectors. May look into those. Right now, need to focus on the condensation problems.

[y0itzflip]

retrofit source projectors have bixenon option anyway. me being a light guy, I'd never go LED bulbs over hid/xenon. I have a lot of leds on my car as well (still trying to figure out an oem looking LED DRL for the fog grill) there are a lot of factors that will make it not be as bright as a xenon bulb. same reason no matter how many rear turn signal LED bulbs I've tried, none has had the same visibility (day and night) as oem bulbs. it's just the way the leds work with the oem reflectors. (there is one more bulb I want to try, but I have better things to spend my money on right now besides a 80+ dollar turn signal bulb lol.)

eBay ecodes. trs retrofit with bixenon and be done with it. better than oem lighting

[PreciseD]

I did the E46 swap and the output is fantastic. It was also an easy swap that cost under $100 if you reuse your old ballasts.

[onceover]

Also have condensation issues with my bixenon ecodes. Those rear covers that hold the ballast are useless. They crack if you look at them wrong. I installed the ballast and then used GE Silicone III to seal the cracks and the ballast to the cover. So far so good.

You can also look into throwing a couple silica packs into the headlight. This was a TSB for my Cayenne and it helped a ton.

[CyberPMG]

Update: Decided to get the Depo D1S ecodes. Later will look at getting the Bi-Xenon kit from TRS in the Spring when I have some refund money to use. Currently looking into condensation issues. Put in some silica packs in each one and sprayed some sealant (liquid rubber) around the edges of the rear caps. Got a big sheet from Depo in the box explaining the condensation is "normal". I call BS on that. Wondering if I need to put some epoxy around the seal where the clear cover meets the black housing.

[maccalo]

Buy new back covers, around $25-30 each from the dealer. They come with a new rubber gasket. Use 8mm OD o-ring and some water resistant grease. Working for me so far.

Part numbers:
#8E0941158B
#8E0941159B

[noldevin]

I did the TRS Mini H1 (I got them before the version 7 but they are still fantastic). The stock halogen housings work fine but there is some chrome in there that casts some odd reflections, so I might end up doing a joey mod when it gets warmer.