1.8t shaking and vibration in lower RPM'S

[Schwebe]

Hello, I just picked up a 2004 a4 1.8t quattro. I love it so far but something seems off when it comes to the gears. It seems like I have to shift above 4k rpm to make sure the next gear doesn't "bog" my car. It is hard to explain but imagine you are going 25 mph and shift into 6th gear, your car would shake and vibrate since it is in way too high of a gear. That's exactly what my car is doing but I'm not in the wrong gear. It's especially noticeable 2nd into 3rd. It'll vibrate like crazy and struggles to accelerate same with the rest of my gears. I can't drive around town in 3rd or fourth because it feels like I'm in 6th gear!

160k on the car, only CEL I had was a secondary air problem which I would not relate to this. Transmission shifts really smooth once warmed up. Any ideas? I've tried to search and I'm only finding this problem on the autos and I have a 6 speed.

Thanks!

[csosnowski]

It sounds like you have an issue with engine performance, not the transmission. Maybe you have a clogged cat? Exhaust shops should be able to test for excessive ebp for less than $50.

Unless someone put some really thick oil in the trans or used the wrong GL spec.

[Rus_ninja]

I have this issue because of my light flywheel. But it's only 2000rpm and lower. I wish I went with the Valeo kit for the clutch.

[Schwebe]

Thanks for the replies! It's strange cause its just horrible in 3rd gear. It shakes the whole car and I feel like it's going to stall. I have all stock exhaust so I was wondering about my cat but figured it'd throw a cel.

[csosnowski]

I just realized you may have a failed DMF. DMF=dual mass flywheel

Does it ever go away? Does the intensity of the vibration increase with engine RPM independent of if youre revving still or rolling?

[Schwebe]

If I'm not in gear it revs fine without any noise. The only time it is really bad is if change gears under 3k. It's really not bad in other gears but in 3rd gear it just feels like everything is going to explode haha. As far as the vibration increasing with RPMs it just stays like that until I get into high rpms or change gears. Doesn't change much honestly.

Anyway to check this to see if mine has infact failed?

[Schwebe]

Also probably not related but I have noticed when I come to a stop and my heat is on I can smell burning oil, the car also sounds a little strange and idle like a cammed car or something.

[csosnowski]

I didn't see this thread come back, sorry.

No real way to see if the DMF failed except for by removing the transmission and checking it.

At this point I would start with the basics, ignition, fuel, air. Check the spark plugs, see what they look like. It kind of sounds like you have a misfire under load until warm, which is unusual but not unheard of.

[chad99]

I would check for ecu codes, if none then check for vacuum leaks with a vacuum gauge

[BARRY]

if you're getting a check engine light it sounds like your ignition coils failed.

basically you will have NO power and lots of shaking and vibration.

[Schwebe]

Sorry for the wait, I have been busy. I replaced my plugs, coils, and air filter and still the samething. The only cel I get is secondary air so that shouldn't affect anything. When I replaced my valve cover gasket I noticed my tb was looking very worn so I'm having that replaced on Wednesday. What are the chances that my timing is a tooth off causing this? I made a 3 hour trip at around 70 mph with no stops and only averaged 23-24mpg so something has to be up!

[customa4]

It's possible but I'd definitely try to get a look at the cat when you get a chance. If it's clogged it will cause a serious loss of power through all gears.

[Schwebe]

Definitely a possibility as well. The car has 160k and stock exhaust. It also has that notorious metal rattle noise at 2kish rpm that is associated with a bad cat. Only strange thing is even my older cars have thrown codes for cat efficiency issues. Do these cars not do this?

[customa4]

I had a badly clogged cat and it didn't throw any codes. Seems like a hit or miss if the computer picks up on it. Here's my thread. Click

[Schwebe]

Alright, it's been awhile but a quick update on this! I have since replaced coil packs, plugs, fuel filter, turbo back exhaust, and air filter. The problem still persist....If I have a bad axle what kind of symptoms would that produce?

[customa4]

Turbo-back exhaust? So the cat was replaced? Pictures? Your axle will not cause engine performance problems. If you have no power throughout the gears it's not your axle. Do you have access to VCDS? No DTC's are stored? Take some logs. It's a guessing game with no data from the car.

[Schwebe]

I have a test pipe now, so yes cat is not an issue. I have a vag com and get nothing when I scan. I have plenty of power its just none below 3k RPM, I do think I have an exhaust leak between the turbo and mani, I am trying to get that fixed today but I doubt that could be causing this big of an issue. I'm not sure about other 6 speed owners but I can not even use 6th gear below 60mph because it just "bogs"

[customa4]

That's odd. What color are your fuel injectors?

[Schwebe]

I also forgot to mention I am now running a stage 1+ tune with tt injectors, the problem did not change at all with stock tune and injectors vs my new tune.

[customa4]

Where's the tune from? Do you have a boost gauge?

[Schwebe]

Tune is APR, boost gauge is a p3 gauge, I am spiking at 21 psi and holding around 16-18 for a bit.

[customa4]

I would take some data logs since you have VCDS. Log blocks 115 and 118 in turbo mode and do a 3rd gear pull at WOT to see what it looks like. Only other thing I could think of is maybe the MAF sensor. Here's an article on diagnosing the MAF sensor. Click

[Schwebe]

Alright, I will go and do that in a bit! Also not sure why but your link will not work.

[customa4]

Works for me. Do a google search for "diagnosing maf ross tech" should come up as the first link.

[Schwebe]

Alright, I've never done a log before so hopefully this is correct! Also on a unrelated note since I got a new ecu and tune my cruise control in 6th gear doesn't work, I have tried changing the engine code through vcds to a 1 (6 speed) instead of 0 (5 speed) but it gives me invalid range.

I can not attach files so let me upload the log to a file hosting site.

edit
http://www.filedropper.com/log-01-115-118-xxx

[Schwebe]

Just an update with this situation, I have since replaced my exhaust with a full turbo back exhaust, I then noticed that I had a really bad leak at my turbo to mani, I replaced that gasket hoping that this would resolve the whole vibration issue. To my surprise it did not! I saw vast improvements in MPG's but I still have the horrible vibration and lack of power below 2k. I have also cleaned my MAF and reset my throttle body position through vag com. What's the next part to replace? I feel like that's almost everything. Any chance that I have a really bad boost leak that I am not noticing and it could be causing this? I peak at 22 psi and hold at around 10-12. Not sure where else to go with this issue.

[maurizio]

are you getting misfires under vagcom? could be the wiring for the coils still..

[Schwebe]

Nope, haven't seen any misfires at all!

[Schwebe]

Reviving my own thread because I am literally about to go crazy from this car. This vibration is still here! I have replaced my head due to it being cracked and still no luck. It is almost like my engine will just lug in any gear if it is below 2k rpm, I can't cruise around town in anything but like 2nd or 3rd gear doing 30 or it will start "shaking" (more of a lugging). Engine performs perfect in higher RPM's, I have plenty of power. I am still suspecting possibly an axle or drive train issue but have no clue how to go about troubleshooting those issues.

[Kevin C]

I have a 2003 with a six speed. Below 2100 RPM its not as smooth and not where I prefer to drive. I get a slight lugging under 2100. Sixth is 60 mph and higher. On the internet its really hard to compare how my car feels compared to yours. I did find that swapping in a new dual mass that used a sprung hub clutch disk made the car smoother at low RPM's. Still its a 4 cly engine and under 2000 rpm its hard to expect much power or for it to be perfectly smooth. I swapped the 240mm clutch from a B7 ( you need a B7 block spacer and the starter. You will need to trim a boss on the block so the starter clears .

Without driving your car its really hard to say if what you have is normal or not. I do know that the factory setup can be improved on. Mine feels OK at 2000, it just has the slight feel that I should be in a lower gear. Nothing harsh.... My stock dual mass with out a sprung hub did about the same thing but was not as smooth and seemed to take another 200 rpm to smooth out. It was just a slight lugging feel.

[Schwebe]

I have owned multiple 4 cylinder 6 speeds and have never experience anything like this, even driving buddies 1.8's something has to be wrong. I will try to get a video of the issue, maybe this can help.

[Kevin C]

I have owned multiple 4 cylinder 6 speeds and have never experience anything like this, even driving buddies 1.8's something has to be wrong. I will try to get a video of the issue, maybe this can help.

If its that bad and your motor is running correctly ( no fault codes, good compression, no miss fires), its time to inspect and replace your flywheel. EDIT: What is surprising is that you have no other symptoms like a rattle at idle or metallic noises.

[tHatOne guY]

Have you thought maybe the issue is within the transmission itself?

long story short, I left my B6 USP at a body shop for some quick work and got it back with a nonfunctional clutch and transmission noise/vibration as well which sound very much like some of your symptoms.

After that experience my trans now has a diesel engine sound in 1st gear only, very noisy rattle @ idle wo the clutch pedal depressed and heavy vibes in 4-6th gear at or near 2000-2300rpm. Vibes are felt throughout entire cabin, driver seat, shift lever, steering wheel and even rear view mirrors which can be seen shaking. I too thought the cause was a faulty axle..

Just a thought.

Hope you get it figured soon as I know the vibes in my car make me hate it a lil more everyday.

Oh also, I had to use a Chassisear to determine where the vibrations were coming from exactly.

Seen here.. https://www.amazon.com/Steelman-0660...rds=chassisear

Hopefully I'm completely wrong but it seems like this is certainly the problem in my B6

[Brabazoo]

I had the same problem. Check or replace PCV valve. The diaphragm can expand under heat causing oil to seep through back into the intake. Especially if the car is driving under load.

Monitor your fluid levels. It could be the turbo going so watch oil levels, head gasket (if this problem occurs only when the engine is hot) so watch oil and water levels and look for traces of contamination, it might also be blow-by. Assess your exhaust fumes, it will smell like fuel since you have deleted the catalyst but look for any form of smoke and its density.

Lastly it could be injectors, ignition coils, clogged fuel filter, worn camshaft guides, failing VVT solenoid.

My issue was vacuum leak AND failing turbo.




2010 Audi A4 B8 1.8TFSI - APR K04 turbo/APR Turbo muffler delete/GFB DV+/K&N air filter kit/Powerflow exhaust/New PCV, VVT&VVL solenoid/ EGR Shut/ Vortex high flow water & oil pump/ Audi R8 ignition coils/ Stock fuel pump.

[BARRY]