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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring thedustman99's Avatar
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    Oct 07 2015
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    360341
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    New Richmond, WI

    Coolant issues. Is it normal?

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    I have been fighting issues for the past 3 months with this nightmare of a car.. I replaced the head gasket and had the head surface machined. Instantly was having issues with the heat not working and coolant overflowing when I would remove the reservoir cap. So, I bought a new head that was rebuilt with only 20,000 miles on it, with a new head gasket. NOW my heat works like it should, I always have good heat, there is no coolant in my oil (wasn't last time either) no coolant on oil cap either. But whenever I open my reservoir cap when I shut the car off it makes a huge gasp of air then boils over out of the tank. It also will do this when the car is idling after driving. PLEASE HELP!! I just put a new timing belt kit on also so it has a brand new waterpump. What else could cause this? Thermostat?

    Yes I followed torque sequence and used new head bolts each time.

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  2. #2
    Active Member One Ring thedustman99's Avatar
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    Oct 07 2015
    AZ Member #
    360341
    Location
    New Richmond, WI

    Quote Originally Posted by thedustman99 View Post
    I have been fighting issues for the past 3 months with this nightmare of a car.. I replaced the head gasket and had the head surface machined. Instantly was having issues with the heat not working and coolant overflowing when I would remove the reservoir cap. So, I bought a new head that was rebuilt with only 20,000 miles on it, with a new head gasket. NOW my heat works like it should, I always have good heat, there is no coolant in my oil (wasn't last time either) no coolant on oil cap either. But whenever I open my reservoir cap when I shut the car off it makes a huge gasp of air then boils over out of the tank. It also will do this when the car is idling after driving. PLEASE HELP!! I just put a new timing belt kit on also so it has a brand new waterpump. What else could cause this? Thermostat?

    Yes I followed torque sequence and used new head bolts each time.

    Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
    Oh and I have also done compression check to see if head wasn't sealed but all cylinders are within tolerance

    Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings StriktlyAudi333's Avatar
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    Jul 20 2015
    AZ Member #
    343601
    Location
    Mesa, AZ 85207

    You have to bleed it correctly. I just did mine, but there are 3 air pressure releases including the reservoir. With the completely cold, res tank picked higher about 6 inches, and the bleeder screw half open and the top heater core antifreeze hose pulled back to reveal the small bleed hole, start filling. Leave the car off when you do this and close one bleed hole at a time once 100% liquid comes out with zero air. Do not cap the reservoir nor move it from that position. Start the car and wait a few by the reservoir prepared to poor more in. Keep it topped of the whole process until it's comes back out at you and the cap and play

  4. #4
    Active Member One Ring thedustman99's Avatar
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    Oct 07 2015
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    360341
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    New Richmond, WI

    Quote Originally Posted by StriktlyAudi333 View Post
    You have to bleed it correctly. I just did mine, but there are 3 air pressure releases including the reservoir. With the completely cold, res tank picked higher about 6 inches, and the bleeder screw half open and the top heater core antifreeze hose pulled back to reveal the small bleed hole, start filling. Leave the car off when you do this and close one bleed hole at a time once 100% liquid comes out with zero air. Do not cap the reservoir nor move it from that position. Start the car and wait a few by the reservoir prepared to poor more in. Keep it topped of the whole process until it's comes back out at you and the cap and play
    Is it normal for the coolant cap to release pressure then coolant come up and overflow if you open the cap right after driving?

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  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings StriktlyAudi333's Avatar
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    Jul 20 2015
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    343601
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    Mesa, AZ 85207

    Yeah it's a pressurized system but doing that creates an air pocket throughout the hoses so I wouldn't do it. Some people call it burping the system but if you poor it in like what I attempted to explain then you won't have air pockets to burp. Coolant is there to cool off the block but all it does is raise the boiling temp and lower the freezing temp. Something water alone can't (although it's a temporary fix) I usually start with a gallon of DISTILLED water and a gallon of coolant and mix them in a jug of some sort and do that filling procedure when the car is still cold.

  6. #6
    Active Member One Ring thedustman99's Avatar
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    Oct 07 2015
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    New Richmond, WI

    Quote Originally Posted by StriktlyAudi333 View Post
    Yeah it's a pressurized system but doing that creates an air pocket throughout the hoses so I wouldn't do it. Some people call it burping the system but if you poor it in like what I attempted to explain then you won't have air pockets to burp. Coolant is there to cool off the block but all it does is raise the boiling temp and lower the freezing temp. Something water alone can't (although it's a temporary fix) I usually start with a gallon of DISTILLED water and a gallon of coolant and mix them in a jug of some sort and do that filling procedure when the car is still cold.
    Ok well thanks man. I actually tried filling it like that once and still had the coolant overflow when removing the cap.. so just wanting to make sure it's normal. It shoots up and overflows onto the ground. but my friend has the same car and his doesnt. Sorry I keep asking the same question but just nervous that it's not supposed to do that lol.

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  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings StriktlyAudi333's Avatar
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    Jul 20 2015
    AZ Member #
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    Mesa, AZ 85207

    You should never have to remove the cap. If you fill entire system with the coolant reservoir lifted higher up than the bleeder screw and the bleeder hole in the coolant hose that runs through the firewall, keep on filling until a steady stream comes out the screw. Once that happens close the screw tight. Then in about a half a second (as you are still pouring into tank without letting it empty completely) the water will start coming out of the bleed hole in the hose that should be pulled back on the heater core piping in the firewall just enough to expose that hole to the air. Once that has a steady stream going, push the hose back onto the pipe all the way and tighten the clamp TIGHT. Continue keeping the tank topped of (like during the rest of this process) until it won't hole anymore. Keep the tank elevated like it is with the cap off and start the car and let it warm up while watching the water level. Turn your heater on high for all this just to make sure the coolant is running through the heater core. Once the water comes back at you with force (not just a little increase in level) but when it start comin out of the tank hot and fast, that's when you quickly close the cap and put the reservoir back where it screws in. And then leave it alone and your good to go. Your buddy's didn't boil over cuz the car was probably not warmed up. Every car, when hot, is gunna send boiling coolant at you if you try and take the cap off

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