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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Engaging reverse 01E question

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    Hey guys

    Fresh 01E rebuild, JHM trio, and HD cross rod.

    Currently have the car in on jackstands, no axles, no driveshaft. Have two questions / issues...

    1) When I start the car, the axles flanges spin forward. However when I put it in reverse, the flanges are still spinning in the same direction. Is this normal?

    2) I'm having an issue with the reverse switch being engaged / not getting reverse lights. The switch p/n 01E941521 seems to be not long enough when the trans is shifted in reverse. Seems like the switch is too short? Or is something in the trans installed incorrectly?

    Any ideas as to what may be wrong?

    Plz halp!
    Last edited by erykv1; 12-17-2015 at 09:21 PM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Sounds like your shifter isn't adjusted

  3. #3
    Active Member Four Rings aysix's Avatar
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    Shifter or you removed a detent you shouldn't have removed after the rebuild

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    I've adjusted the shifter like 300 times. I can push down and go over and get into reverse but I guess it's not engaging completely? Getting frustrating.

  5. #5
    Active Member Four Rings aysix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erykv1 View Post
    I've adjusted the shifter like 300 times. I can push down and go over and get into reverse but I guess it's not engaging completely? Getting frustrating.
    rip.


  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aysix View Post
    rip.

    Lol. I have not touched that!

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    I think pretty much everone that has installed these didnt grind enough off the part that the spherical goes into and it binds up.
    Try having someone work the shifter while you help it out from below and watch what it is doing.

    Rev is usually the one that gives people the most trouble, followed by 5th and 6th.
    These are the areas where it will bind.

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Here's what mine looks like. I'm pretty sure enough material was removed. I'll try to remove the nut and give it a go. Thanks for everyone's input so far.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings rollerton's Avatar
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    Go under the car and operate the shift rod manually at the trans. Put it in reverse FULLY and test connections (resistance ~) across reverse light switch poles. It should be roughly nothing at rest and ' 1 ' when the switch is engaged and the circuit is closed.
    Your axles / flanges spinning when there's no load on the trans is meaningless. It's an open-differential so unless all 4 wheels (or at least two opposite) have some kind of grip they can spin or not spin in any way they like and it's meaningless (unless ONE spins super fast and can't be stopped).
    Once trans is manually put into reverse go see where your shifter is. Adjust if needed.
    foley803 : What does an electrical surge sound like? Barking dogs? Watermelons?

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    On a late style car when installing the JHM stabilizer bushing what is the correct bushing orientation? Will this affect reverse?

    Thick bushing on top or bottom?
    Last edited by erykv1; 12-17-2015 at 08:28 PM.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Looks like the cup should good.
    Stiil, have somebody up to work while you watch to see how much clearance there is/isnt.

    You talking about where the crossrod bolts to the trans?
    Using the wrong mounting point with the oem rod can be a prob, but I think the jhm is kinda universal.
    Shouldnt be a prob as long as it isnt binding on the detent nut thing or the top of the trans.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Looks like the cup should good.
    Stiil, have somebody up to work while you watch to see how much clearance there is/isnt.

    You talking about where the crossrod bolts to the trans?
    Using the wrong mounting point with the oem rod can be a prob, but I think the jhm is kinda universal.
    Shouldnt be a prob as long as it isnt binding on the detent nut thing or the top of the trans.
    I've messed with the cross rod, I know the position differs between the early / late years. I've tried both positions today just in case.

    I had someone look just now and it seems like the clearance around that cup is good.

    The bushing I'm referring to are these: https://jhmotorsports.com/products/p..._installed.jpg

    On the website it seems to show the thicker bushing on the bottom, but on their youtube walkthrough it seems like its on the top (I'm assuming differences between late / early shifters).
    If this makes a difference between getting reverse or not I will have to drop the trans / subframe in order to access it. As much as I don't want to to this, it looks like I will have to give it a go.

    Perhaps I'll give JHM a call in the morning before I drop the subframe to switch these bushings around

    I appreciate the input zillarob.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Id put the thicker one on the bottom to match the oem one.
    I would say it will not cause your prob either way though.

    If swapping them was able to create any sort of prob, would guess this:
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...tions-than-oem
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    What about the wedge/shim thing where the lever gizmo bolts on the shifter input rod?
    Cant remember if it is needed with the jhm stuff, but people like to lose them and make the oem ones unhappy.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Turbo Nerd's Avatar
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    The wedge is built into the JHM unit.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quick update after disconnecting the shifter and trying to manually engage reverse at the trans it would bind. So ended up pulling the trans thinking it was something assembled incorrectly during the rebuild.

    Finally get the trans out... And manually shifted it and it clicked into reverse with some persuasion. After that it engaged all gears fine.

    No freakin clue what went wrong. Only thing I can think of is it was stuck somehow and not enough force could be applied to it via the linkages.

    Time to put the trans back in... Lol.

    Thank you all for the input I really appreciate it.

    Reverse!

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Welp... Its back in and still no reverse.

    The only thing I can think of is the actual shift linkage rod is bent.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Iirc, there was a guy on another forum a little while back that had a similar prob with one.
    I think he got ahold of jhm and it ended up being some odd combo of early/late parts that was the prob.
    Maybe worth a shot?
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Iirc, there was a guy on another forum a little while back that had a similar prob with one.
    I think he got ahold of jhm and it ended up being some odd combo of early/late parts that was the prob.
    Maybe worth a shot?
    Yep. I think it's the JHM cross rod. Or I was sent the wrong shifter. Do you know what the difference is between the late and early style shifters? The pics look the same on their site.

    I had to add a few shims (in addition to the supplied one) to the cross rod and now I can get reverse if I slam into it. Trans is currently dry... Calling it a night. Pulled a trans and reinstalled today for no reason possibly due to wrong/faulty parts.
    Last edited by erykv1; 12-18-2015 at 09:53 PM.

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Late and early will be the foot thing on the bottom of the shifter.
    Early is straight, late is kicked to the left a little.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    Late and early will be the foot thing on the bottom of the shifter.
    Early is straight, late is kicked to the left a little.
    hmm. I ordered a late, but if received an early one this could explain my issues, it seems like it could use a little more left push on the trans... I hope this is it.

    Hopefully JHM is receptive about doing an exchange if this is the issue, but I bought this trio kit almost a year ago... didnt get around to installing it until recently.

  22. #22
    Active Member One Ring
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    I was having a similar issue not long ago where I installed a late cross rod with an early shifter when I put my trans back in, I could not get reverse but all other gears worked fine, replaced with the correct cross rod and it worked fine after that
    2001 Audi S4

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxboner View Post
    I was having a similar issue not long ago where I installed a late cross rod with an early shifter when I put my trans back in, I could not get reverse but all other gears worked fine, replaced with the correct cross rod and it worked fine after that


    I have the right late rod... But it seems like the length is ever so slightly off. I assume these are built on a jig so there shouldn't be a huge variation. Assuming the cross rod is not made to spec this could be causing my issue of not allowing enough travel to get into reverse...

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Can you grab some pics of how the cross rod attaches to the other rod?
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Today my friend with an early style shifter pulled his shifter out to compare for me. And I do indeed have the correct shifter.

    As of these current findings, I am pretty sure my cross rod is the one causing the issues. I will see what JHM can do about this... I can't really revert back to stock (as much as I want to at this point) since my shift linkage has been drilled out...

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    If you are bored and want to fk with it, put some washers under the nut part of the stud to space it up.
    Should basically make the lever longer an give the shift rod a little more throw.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillarob View Post
    If you are bored and want to fk with it, put some washers under the nut part of the stud to space it up.
    Should basically make the lever longer an give the shift rod a little more throw.
    I've tried this as well, it definitely improves it, but still doesn't get into reverse. I've tried 2-3 washers, I'd stack more but I'm running out of threads and it just seems like a hack-job of a way to resolve this problem :(
    Gonna start looking for a factory cross rod / shifter assembly. Haven't been able to get my car back together cause of this fiasco. Thanks for your time & input zillarob, I really appreciate it.

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings erykv1's Avatar
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    Update...

    Jake@JHM has been really helpful through PM, but no solution was really reached with regards to this matter. I've gotten ZERO response via their technical support email.

    I've tried everything short of cutting up the $150 cross rod and welding it in the correct place to allow for sufficient travel which I do not want to do.

    Looks like I will be shelling out $350 for an oem cross rod / selector shaft rod since I cant find it used anywhere.

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