Broken motor mount question

[mm5300]

It's a long story, but I seem to have a broken motor mount on my B8 S4. It's on the right side and I was just wondering if anyone had any experience replacing a motor mount themselves (looks like a very long, difficult job) or experience with what it costs to repair. From the parts diagram it looks like it's maybe the inner part, but hard to get from a diagram. Let me know if anyone has any info (good or bad, but I'd prefer good).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0m...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0m...ew?usp=sharing

[UberBrute]

Check the 034 motorsports website for their mounts, they have a PDF install guide, that may help give you an idea.

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[Thurston]

it's mind blowing to me that the mount upon which the motor sits is actually a liability. ive never heard of having to upgrade such a part but I guess leave it to the germans. maybe im being tough but with each speed bump i hit I know I'll be having to enlist 034 has well.

[rtl5009]

How'd you break a motor mount?

[wwhan]

How'd you break a motor mount?

They are filled with fluid to dampen vibration. I think there is sensor that will flag an error in the ECU, when it fails. Failure is not uncommon, apparently - look at 034.

https://store.034motorsport.com/moto...s5-q5-sq5.html

Install: https://store.034motorsport.com/blog/installation-instructions-density-line-engine-mounts-b8-audi-a4s4-a5s5-q5sq5/

[Thurston]

They are filled with fluid to dampen vibration. I think there is sensor that will flag an error in the ECU, when it fails. Failure is not uncommon, apparently - look at 034.

https://store.034motorsport.com/moto...s5-q5-sq5.html

Install: https://store.034motorsport.com/blog/installation-instructions-density-line-engine-mounts-b8-audi-a4s4-a5s5-q5sq5/

interesting.. What do other cars use or do they use fluid as well?

[Triska]

If you get a failure alert, but the mount is physically still intact, except for fluid loss...what are the issues? Does it affect daily drivability?

[pdqgp]

it's mind blowing to me that the mount upon which the motor sits is actually a liability. ive never heard of having to upgrade such a part but I guess leave it to the germans. maybe im being tough but with each speed bump i hit I know I'll be having to enlist 034 has well.

My previous MazdaSpeed had the same issue. Stock mounts on the 2.3l Turbo there sucked too. I replaced mine with an aftermarket one right away even before I really drove it. In that case it really helped keep things stable and prevented the motor from twisting causing the dreaded 3rd gear miss/grind.

[S4'ed]

It is not a "sensor" in the mount, it is an electric valve that the ECU controls, which alters the softness of the mount. At idle, the valve is open, and the oil can move thru the two chambers. Above idle, the valve is closed and the mount is stiffer because the oil can't move between the chambers. Lot of cars have these "dynamic" fluid mounts, and they are usually trouble.....Honda has these problems too.....

[schirm]

My motor mounts went, Audi quoted me like $1,300 or something like that. I bought 034 mounts, and my Audi tech friend took it to his Audi dealership up north and did it after hours for $300.

[Thurston]

My motor mounts went, Audi quoted me like $1,300 or something like that. I bought 034 mounts, and my Audi tech friend took it to his Audi dealership up north and did it after hours for $300.

pricey! Can i ask - would they not cover you because of your tune or were you out of warranty?

[schirm]

pricey! Can i ask - would they not cover you because of your tune or were you out of warranty?

Out of warranty.

[pnguy37]

my dealership denied warranty because i was "lowered" on OE sport springs. ended up getting 034 mounts and took it to an independent dealer. those fluid filled mounts are garbage

[doug97gxe]

i've done it on a couple cars.. never an audi.. but it was fairly simple .. jack the motor up.. replace the mount.. depending on how tricky the location is..

[Thurston]

my dealership denied warranty because i was "lowered" on OE sport springs. ended up getting 034 mounts and took it to an independent dealer. those fluid filled mounts are garbage

cold hearted on there part.

[A4 Centaur]

^Replaced mine in the 2.0 but the 034 Street Density Mounts are a welcome change.

[Vogz]

It's a long story, but I seem to have a broken motor mount on my B8 S4. It's on the right side and I was just wondering if anyone had any experience replacing a motor mount themselves (looks like a very long, difficult job) or experience with what it costs to repair. From the parts diagram it looks like it's maybe the inner part, but hard to get from a diagram. Let me know if anyone has any info (good or bad, but I'd prefer good).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0m...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0m...ew?usp=sharing

From my assessment being under the car on my lift many times and observing the mount locations, you would have to support the engine from above and drop the subframe to access them. I'll most likely be upgrading mine to the 034 mounts sometime in the next year. Mine aren't broken as far as I know but I want the mounts to be durable for launches.

Looking at the first pic, WOW. You broke the actual aluminum mount housing, not the rubber part. How the heck did you do that?

[infinkc]

wow were you in an accident before? that is the only time i have seen the alum mount break.

[MrFunk]

I've gotten quoted $689 from the dealership for engine mounts replacement.

[Vogz]

I've gotten quoted $689 from the dealership for engine mounts replacement.

I assume that's only labor, correct?

[B8_Jim]

Looking at the first pic, WOW. You broke the actual aluminum mount housing, not the rubber part. How the heck did you do that?

This isn't the "engine mount" - it's a "mount support" based on the part # visible in the OP images - Part #7 at : http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/20...agramCallOut=7 The mounts are #1 and #2...

I'd like to know how this was broken as well - OP - I'd look for other damage...

[Vogz]

This isn't the "engine mount" - it's a "mount support" based on the part # visible in the OP images - Part #7 at : http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/20...agramCallOut=7 The mounts are #1 and #2...

I'd like to know how this was broken as well - OP - I'd look for other damage...

Tomato toMAto. It's connected to the mount, it's metal and he broke it. That's the concern here. Not the terminology I used for a metal part that connects the mount to the subframe.

[JoshDub]

Tomato toMAto. It's connected to the mount, it's metal and he broke it. That's the concern here. Not the terminology I used for a metal part that connects the mount to the subframe.

Maybe not a concern for you. But it is a concern for the guy trying to order the correct part to fix his car.

[Vogz]

Maybe not a concern for you. But it is a concern for the guy trying to order the correct part to fix his car.

I wasn't telling the OP which part to order.

[paul]

I'm pretty sure the B8 S4 mounts do not adjust their firmness like some of the fluid filled mercedes mounts. The S4 has fluid that when released results in the sensor tripping to let you know the mount has failed.

[S4'ed]

No, not a "sensor", the mounts have an electric valve in them that changes the fluid path, to change the firmness. The ECU has no idea when the mounts break and leak fluid out. The ECU does set a DTC if the valve electrical circuit is open or shorted.

[rockstar143]

so basically magnetic ride control for the motor mounts

[B7TitaniumA4]

Old thread but if it helps somebody....

I replaced mine in about 4 hours.
Car in a quick jack
Engine support bar from harbor freight hooked to the rear lifting points on the SC
Unbolted the trans mount (I’m manual)
Was able to lift the engine enough to get the mounts and brackets out on each side with a little finesse. You will need to remove the oil cooler on the driver side to access the mount.
I did not touch the sub frame (there is one subframe bolt on the driver side that has to come out to access the rear mount bolt, FYI)




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[bakedziti]

Old thread but if it helps somebody....

I replaced mine in about 4 hours.
Car in a quick jack
Engine support bar from harbor freight hooked to the rear lifting points on the SC
Unbolted the trans mount (I’m manual)
Was able to lift the engine enough to get the mounts and brackets out on each side with a little finesse. You will need to remove the oil cooler on the driver side to access the mount.
I did not touch the sub frame (there is one subframe bolt on the driver side that has to come out to access the rear mount bolt, FYI)




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This is the info I’ve been hunting for after finding a puddle under my passenger side this morning and figuring out it’s the engine mount.

[wrxkyle]

From my assessment being under the car on my lift many times and observing the mount locations, you would have to support the engine from above and drop the subframe to access them. I'll most likely be upgrading mine to the 034 mounts sometime in the next year. Mine aren't broken as far as I know but I want the mounts to be durable for launches.

Looking at the first pic, WOW. You broke the actual aluminum mount housing, not the rubber part. How the heck did you do that?

man that's nothing, there's a guy on here the the broken mount broke a hole in his crank case, cost him an engine.

[doughboy17]

Sorry I can't provide you the specific info. you are requesting but it is a known failure point. I had one of mine replaced under warranty but it's leaking again with 87K total miles on the car. Go with 034's mounts. I just had the mounts replaced last week on our 2007 A4 with 034 street density mounts at Komet Motorsports in Chicagoland (St. Charles) for half the price of either of the two quotes locally.

It was worth the 2.5 hr. drive. This is the 2nd car or ours they have worked on, and I would make the trip again. They are excellent, are Euro car experts, and work on high end vehicles, including vintage muscle cars. Can't say enough great things about them -- honest and reasonable. So far, everything I have even asked them about, they have seen, repaired, and/or upgraded.

[bakedziti]

Unbolted the trans mount (I’m manual)
Was able to lift the engine enough to get the mounts and brackets out on each side with a little finesse.

Is unbolting there trans mount necessary for 6MT cars?
I ask because I’m having a little bit of trouble getting the right side out of the space after unbolting everything and I’m certain I’m past 20mm as 034 states in their guide.

[B7TitaniumA4]

I did and it helped to get the engine to “pivot” enough to work it out. I used the engine bar technique, I did not drop the subframe at all.


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[Coderedpl]

I just did this on my DSG, and did what I saw suggested on the ECS tuning guide. That was to lower the steering rack, which gives you space to drop the mount through.

I also did use the engine support bar, and did raise the engine quite a bit to have more clearance.

[bakedziti]

Thanks guys!

I got the passenger side out with a little more finesse than I was using initially. It’s safe to say the passenger side failed based on the image below.




I moved over to the driver side, but stopped for today once I got to the oil cooler. I was working on the last hidden T30 toward the cabin and started getting oil drips. I expect some oil to drip out but can you guys tell me how much to expect here?

With the oil cooler and the AC condenser to remove, I decided to just finish it up tomorrow with the temps dropping.

EDIT: I’m just seeing the ECS procedure, but I’m curious if I could finish up the driver side without removing the oil cooler, but also not removing the front sway and steering rack.

[B7TitaniumA4]

Wow that’s F***ed

Some oil will come out, I don’t remember it being “a lot” did you get a new seal for the cooler?

see if you can avoid removing the coolant lines tho… i drained mine cause I was pulling supercharger and stuff at the same time I did my mounts.

You don’t need to pull the compressor iirc.


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[bakedziti]

I do not have a new gasket for the oil cooler, but could order one being that I need to order a new pan for my B5 S4 anyway. I was more concerned that I’d need to get a full oil change kit while I’m ordering more parts.

[Coderedpl]

Thanks guys!

I got the passenger side out with a little more finesse than I was using initially. It’s safe to say the passenger side failed based on the image below.




I moved over to the driver side, but stopped for today once I got to the oil cooler. I was working on the last hidden T30 toward the cabin and started getting oil drips. I expect some oil to drip out but can you guys tell me how much to expect here?

With the oil cooler and the AC condenser to remove, I decided to just finish it up tomorrow with the temps dropping.

EDIT: I’m just seeing the ECS procedure, but I’m curious if I could finish up the driver side without removing the oil cooler, but also not removing the front sway and steering rack.

You're not removing the rack entirely, you're simply lowering it. Get some wire hangers or something to hold it in place. The swaybar is a piece of cake to remove as-well, and since you're down there, it's a no brainer to make life easier.

I don't want to say its impossible, but unless you drop the subframe or lower the rack, or even start messing with lines and coolers and whatnot, I think it might be close to, if not, impossible to remove the engine mount. There is just not enough space even when raising the engine up to get to the 2 bolts that hold that "shied" in place.

Honestly, besides my engine support bar twisting and scaring the shit out of me while holding the weight of the entire engine, I had a MUCH easier time with the drivers side than I did with the passenger, with the rack lowered, & swaybar out, it basically came right out. No oil lines or anything else to worry about and in reality, its 8 more bolts. You're really removing (2 bolts on bottom of end-links, 2 that hold the rack, and 4 for the swaybar mount). Obviously disconnect the rack wiring, but no need to touch anything else.

[bakedziti]

The sway bar route requires an alignment which for me with ACC is much more involved and expensive than a typical alignment. Not to mention the xbrace and sway bar end links are all TTY bolts that need to be replaced with each use.

If the oil cooler is really only going to spill a few ounces of oil, then I think I’ll continue that way today and try to pick up a new gasket for the cooler locally or order one online.

[Coderedpl]

The sway bar route requires an alignment which for me with ACC is much more involved and expensive than a typical alignment. Not to mention the xbrace and sway bar end links are all TTY bolts that need to be replaced with each use.

If the oil cooler is really only going to spill a few ounces of oil, then I think I’ll continue that way today and try to pick up a new gasket for the cooler locally or order one online.

You don't need an alignment after a sway bar removal, you must be thinking subframe...and I've reused tty bolts. Just make sure you check them. Your choice in the end.