Replacing stock front rotors for S7 / What to replace with?

[cheezItt]

Looking to replace the stock front rotors. I am getting a bit of vibration when braking at high speeds.
Should i just go with stock OEM rotors?
Also thinking about going with EBC red stuff for the pads.
I had used another brand, but am not happy with breaking capacity of the pads.

[yakev724]

I have absolutely no idea but I am quite fond of your car history. Top choices all around!

[cheezItt]

Thanks! Anyone else can chime in?

[VVG]

So far as I know, the only aftermarket option is from Adam's Rotors

[cheezItt]

Are people going aftermarket like Adams or just oem?

[mik34]

I have Adams but only because I wanted drilled rotors for the look. I've had them for well over a year with no issues.

[gk1]

For myself, it's hard to think of much better than stock considering they are aluminum hat with pins. You'd have to find two piece high quality set otherwise it will likely be a step down from OE.
Here's a cutaway of what the S6/S7 front rotors look like.
http://www.audi-technology-portal.de...nload?file=844

[Kem]

I was hoping to convince JHM to do a lightweight 2pc rotor for our cars. Their B8 S4 rotors save 14.5lbs, I could only imagine with our massive 400mm rotors the weight savings would be.

[gk1]

I was hoping to convince JHM to do a lightweight 2pc rotor for our cars. Their B8 S4 rotors save 14.5lbs, I could only imagine with our massive 400mm rotors the weight savings would be.

FWIW the stock S4 rotors are all steel. Stock S6 rotors already have an aluminum hat so really any weight savings over stock is only going to come from reducing the mass of the steel ring which may not be beneficial when it comes to longevity for repeated stopping power. Might be why there aren't really any options currently since there is almost no benefit. One could argue someone could use a better steel metallurgy or offer a two piece with a better price point for replaceable rings but that may be limited.

[DeerHunter]

FWIW the stock S4 rotors are all steel. Stock S6 rotors already have an aluminum hat so really any weight savings over stock is only going to come from reducing the mass of the steel ring which may not be beneficial when it comes to longevity for repeated stopping power. Might be why there aren't really any options currently since there is almost no benefit.

Absolutely correct.

Looking to replace the stock front rotors. I am getting a bit of vibration when braking at high speeds.
Should i just go with stock OEM rotors?

The OEM rotors, as mentioned, are pretty trick. If you're getting vibration, it's likely not "warped" rotors, but rather an issue with poor pad deposition (i.e. high spots of pad material transferred to the rotor). Either get the rotors turned (if they have enough meat remaining) or new ones, then be careful if you've been using the brakes hard. Don't apply the parking brake when the brakes are hot and also don't keep the brakes applied in the same circumstances. Both will transfer a layer of pad material in the shape of your brake pads and then reveal itself as vibration under hard braking.

[S4Per]

I'm awaiting delivery of my Adam's...got them close to OEM pricing for all four, and curious if the slotted benefit will be noticeable.

[gk1]

I'm awaiting delivery of my Adam's...got them close to OEM pricing for all four, and curious if the slotted benefit will be noticeable.

Please do a weight comparison stock vs. Adams. I'm sure we'd all be interested. Thanks.

[redrocker55]

Another cause of warped rotors is improper installation of the lug bolts. They need to be properly torqued and in the correct order.

Dealership and Indy shops love to use air tools to tighten lugs and this is not a great way to get a proper torque setting. They need to be manually tightened.

[gk1]

Another cause of warped rotors is improper installation of the lug bolts. They need to be properly torqued and in the correct order.

Dealership and Indy shops love to use air tools to tighten lugs and this is not a great way to get a proper torque setting. They need to be manually tightened.

This +1.
Had a place tighten the lugs with only what I could assume is a 1000 ft-lb air gun. I had to use a 4 foot piece of pipe to sleeve a 2 foot breaker bar just to budge them. Never went back there again.

[S4Per]

Please do a weight comparison stock vs. Adams. I'm sure we'd all be interested. Thanks.

Will do.

[AudIan]

Another cause of warped rotors is improper installation of the lug bolts. They need to be properly torqued and in the correct order.

Dealership and Indy shops love to use air tools to tighten lugs and this is not a great way to get a proper torque setting. They need to be manually tightened.

Brake rotors don't warp.

[goliath1]

I have Adams but only because I wanted drilled rotors for the look. I've had them for well over a year with no issues.

Drilled? I ordered mine drilled and they said the vane positions wouldn't support cross thru drilling. so I am getting dimpled. It doesn't help the braking, I just like the look.

[mik34]

Drilled? I ordered mine drilled and they said the vane positions wouldn't support cross thru drilling. so I am getting dimpled. It doesn't help the braking, I just like the look.

I did get drilled. The drilling is OK but the pattern is backwards on one side of the car because they couldn't drill them in the reverse pattern (vane positions I guess). You can't tell because you can't see both sides of the car at the same time but I still went with drilled instead of dimpled (probably would get dimpled if I had to do it over).