Key fob is fubar; how to swap to new holster?

[volkswagensRus]

So the keyfob I received from the previous owner is BAD... it's completely black electrical-tape and the key is stuck in the outwards position.


If I order a new "shell" for it online, how do I insert my key into the new shell? Also, how will the new shell be programmed for my car?

[walky_talky20]

You can buy the whole thing (not just a shell) for $25:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Replacem...mqWsGQ&vxp=mtr

Then get a local locksmith to copy your old key onto that blank. The guy I use charges $10 to copy the "laser cut" keys - even though he does not actually use lasers, lol.

Programming the remote is easy with 2 keys. Instructions here:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ing#Adaptation

If you can't get a copy made easily, you can just swap the key blade like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqX768pnBFs

BUT, you can't program the new remote with just 1 key. So there's that.

You can just replace the shell for less than $10, but then you have to swap the RF board from the old key. This can be tricky as the old keys attach the RF board with brass rivets, so you have to drill them out. Replacing the entire key is easier, AND now you have a spare key for your car. Probably worth the extra $25, but that's your call.

[redline380]

Then get a local locksmith to copy your old key onto that blank. The guy I use charges $10 to copy the "laser cut" keys - even though he does not actually use lasers, lol.

Swapping over the blades alone is relatively simple, no need to have a new blad cut, just use the old one.

Be advised, these chinese fobs suck, as if I actually had to tell you that. But I made one of them work. I drilled out the rivets to extract the chip, and put it in the new fob. The problem with the chinese fob is that the contact for the battery is on the wrong side, so I had to reuse the back of my old fob. The little circle that holds that battery in was also wrong, but that is of little consequence- just cram the batteries in there.

The next problem is swapping over the used blade to the new fob. After it is in, there is a ton of resistance on the blade. It basically wont flip open, so I had to do some grinding of the blade base, and snad down the plastic on the fob part where the blade rotates. I eventually got everything to work, but the old back part doesn't sit on the new shell great, so the little twirly thing pops out sometimes. Oh yeah, and the panic button doesnt work, but the rest of the buttons do.

So yeah, I save myself a few bucks making a cobbled together fob.

[richardodn]

I'm going through this process right now. This is for a US 99 A4 with the 3+1 button remote. The key that came with the car has a non-functional remote. In our case, we ordered a brand new key/remote from a local Audi dealer for about $200. There was no key programming required. We then used the 2-key method to program the remote to the car. Finally, I ordered a shell with electronics off of ebay. When that arrives, I'll transfer the blade to the new base and program the new remote using the 2 key method. At some point I'll look into getting a basic non-remote key cut. I'm not sure what is involved with that. (That's one of the reasons I went with new direct from Audi.)

Whatever path you take, you'll need at least 2 keys to program the remote. The only way you might get lucky is if you can transfer the electronics into a new shell and then resync them.

[volkswagensRus]

I'm just a bit confused now. So I get that I can order an entire new fob, blank and all... and then have a locksmith for a few bucks cut me a new key. I like this idea. But then I have to program the key to the ignition so it will start, and also program the remote to the car so that I can use the keyless entry/trunk release etc. Am I right?

[redline380]

But then I have to program the key to the ignition so it will start, and also program the remote to the car so that I can use the keyless entry/trunk release etc. Am I right?

Partially. You will not have to program the key to the car to have it start, there is no immobilizer. You will have to program the chip so the doors will unlock.

[volkswagensRus]

Ohhhh cool!! That's pretty easy then. This seems like an easy job then. Do I NEED vagcom to do this or no?

[richardodn]

1 key to resync an existing remote. This means you would have to move your remote electronics to a new shell and/or battery and hope it works.

You need 2 keys to program a new remote. It's up to you to determine the best way to have a second one made.

[richardodn]

And Vag-Com is not required. Here's what worked for me with the 3+1 button remote. This is to clear the car of all previous remotes and then program a new remote.

From someone else's post...

DIY remote key reprogarmming
Start at the beginning, did you get the right FCC ID remote? remote batteries? good? Then you have to clear the channels on your car, there are 4 if my memory serves me right. After that only then you can program the remote to your car. This is the procedure I used
You need 2 keys..I suggest you put a window all the way down in the event of an issue. FYI I have a 98 B5 A4. This worked for me, try it.

Clearing of Memory positions.

- Switch ignition on using one key.
- Lock vehicle from outside at driver's door using separate key.
- Press "unlock" button on the remote transmitter key 5 times in one second intervals.
The emergency flashers and or the anti theft system horn confirms every press of the button.
- After 6 seconds, press the remote transmitter "unlock" button to confirm the memory positions are now cleared. The central locking system should not unlock.
- Switch the ignition off.
- Up to 4 keys can now be coded again.

Coding procedure. 2 keys are required for this also. Be sure that keys being coded are coded to free memory spots, if not the remotes previously programmed will no longer work.

- switch the ignition on using one key
- lock the vehicle from outside the drivers door using the key to be coded
- press "unlock" button within 5 seconds often enough to reach the next memory position (ie push 2 times for memory slot 2)

The emergency flashers and or the anti theft horn willl confirm every press of the button

- wait 5 seconds.
- now press "unlock" button one more time (vehicle unlocks)
- switch the ignition off and remove the ignition key
- check function of the new transmitter

[walky_talky20]

Ohhhh cool!! That's pretty easy then. This seems like an easy job then. Do I NEED vagcom to do this or no?

No Vag Com necessary. In fact, Vag Com can't help you do anything other than maybe tell you how many remotes are already programmed. It can't clear them or learn new ones. The only way to do it is manually with 2 keys.

[volkswagensRus]

You guys are seriously badass 'round these parts. Thank you SO much guys. A brand new key it is.

[walky_talky20]

Yeah, we know. <Hair Flip>

J/K. But seriously, lots of information to find here. And if you can't find the answer, just ask. Welcome to our little club.

[volkswagensRus]

LOL. Thank you, I appreciate it. Definitely a good crew with a lot of good information to be had here.

[walky_talky20]

I had forgotten about these, but they do make these nifty little snap covers for the Audi key fobs. I haven't see one myself, but they may offer the kind of "cover that tragedy up" quality that you are looking for. Better than electrical tape, anyway.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4...Key_Fob/Cover/



I think they have these on ebay, too.

[volkswagensRus]

Honestly I've been too afraid to remove the electrical tape to see what the p/o did to the remote LOL. But thats not a half bad idea. That looks like a high quality carrier. Maybe I'll peel the electrical tape back and see what the deal is. Love the car, it just has a LOT of really LITTLE stupid shit wrong with it. IE a taped up ugly ass key fob.

[richardodn]

Here's a bit of a follow up with my experience.

The car came with one key/remote that was non-functional. The batteries were dead, the case in poor shape, etc. This is the old 3+1 button style that takes two CR1620 batteries.
PN: 4D0 837 231E
FCC ID: MZ241081963

I then purchased direct from Audi a new key/remote from the VIN. This is the later style with a single CR2032 battery. This also has a different part number/FCC ID then the original.
PN: 4D0 837 231P
FCC ID: MYT8Z0837231
As this is a 1999 North American B5, it has no immobilizer and did not require programming the car for the key. I assume this also means that there is no transponder chip in the unit. It did however require programming the car for the remote. I followed the instructions I gave above to clear and add the new key in position 1.

I then ordered a reproduction key/remote off of ebay that was listed to work with my car. I removed the key blade from the old unit, popped the roll pin out of the new one and inserted the old blade in the new unit. However I was unsuccessful in programming the remote. I did take it by the auto parts store to test if it was transmitting and it was. I'm not sure what the issue is with it.

I then used the new knock-off blade assembly with the old remote assembly. I installed new batteries and transferred the button covers over. I tried transferring the electronics over but the two units used different battery styles and that didn't work out well. So essentially I have a key/remote with old blade, new blade section, old remote and new button covers. This was a bit more difficult to program to the car as the button press timing is a bit slower. However after a few tries I got it to work. I also seemed that I need to reprogram it whenever the batteries came out but I did not rigorously test that.

I think I'd like to get one more remote. My plan is to buy a used OEM key/remote off of ebay with the later 4D0 837 231P/MYT8Z0837231 numbers. I'll remove the unneeded transponder chip if found. Depending on the condition, I'll refurbish the case. I'd also like to get a non-remote key. I plan to drop by a local locksmith soon and make sure they can be cut before I order any parts.

[walky_talky20]

Thanks for the follow-up on your experience. You do have to be careful with purchasing on ebay as some of the fobs for sale are actually european market fobs that operate on an entirely different frequency band and will not work with North American cars. All of the aftermarket ones are made in china, so they make keys with both bands, and they just end up in different boxes. I saw a lot of the euro fobs when I was looking for mine.

I'd be interested in seeing pictures of your ebay fob. Especially if it has any markings on it (part number, fcc id, etc).

[richardodn]

There are no markings on the outer case at all. Even the chip on the circuit board has no markings. The board does have a sticker that simply shows "V2." If you really want, I can post some pictures of the board. As for the ebay fobs, I'm not likely to purchase anything unless it shows a picture with a correct FCC ID.

[walky_talky20]

I was pretty picky when I bought mine. I specifically wanted the older style (without the trunk button), like the B5 Sedans originally came with. The 3 button (actually 4 button including PANIC) are much more common, but I didn't want that. The extra useless button would keep me up at night. So I found a rebuilt OEM 2-button for pretty cheap - I believe the part number ended in 231D.

[richardodn]

Mine's a 99 Avant and the trunk button pops the rear hatch. You are right about the 3+1 button availability. As near as I can determine, they were made with both FCC ID: MZ2 410 819 6 3 and MYT8Z0 837 231 from the late 90's up to about 2005. If I understand it correctly, the later MYT8Z0... versions had an immobilizer transponder chip but those are backward compatible with our non-immobilizer US B5s. So for example if you ordered a new remote key from Audi like I did, you'd get the 4D0.837.231P/MYT8Z0837231 without a chip for the non-immobilizer cars (my example) and a chip would be included for the immobilizer cars.

Here's something else to consider. Are the button circuit board pads in the same location between the 2+1 and 3+1 remotes? I would bet they are. If so, you could buy the 3+1 style and simply replace the button cover with the 2 button style. They are really easy to swap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-Buttons-...VVv9iD&vxp=mtr

[volkswagensRus]

How do i know which remote I need to order? Been putting it off due to other circumstances

[maxiz1]

If given a choice I'd rather have the 2 button remote compared to the extra button for trunk release that I have now. My neighbor opened his trunk and closed it without realizing the key was left inside.

Some cars have addressed this issue. My previous A4 B8 had a smartkey that will pop the trunk lid open if it detects the key inside it.

[walky_talky20]

I like 2 button layout so when I reach into my pocket with glove on, I can manage to push the button to unlock the door. I feel as though 3 button layout makes the buttons necessarily smaller targets. But, if I had an Avant, I would appreciate the trunk-pop ability. The pros would outweigh the cons at that point.

[spindoctor]

My keyfob is in bad condition too. I bought a super cheap B7 keyfob just to get the Audi sticker as mine came off and then I found this.

http://youtu.be/JJGgqkooF_k


Anyone done that mod yet?

[Libby_1991]

Key shell to me is pretty much for the style only. I don't go for particular key shell (But I found a chrome shall looks really cute and I did order one haha)
There is another thread talking about how to increase the range of your single. Just simply put the key on your head, and you can get better single. Wire but it seems work.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...rbon-Fiber-Key

[gtsingh91]

How do you find out the FCC ID/other part numbers if you only have a valet key? I'm looking to buy an uncut blade and remote from eBay for my 2001

[gtsingh91]

Anyone?

[walky_talky20]

The original 2 button key (Lock, Unlock + PANIC - no trunk button) that came with my North American 2001 A4 was 4D0-837-231D. The FCC ID is 410-819-6-4. The "231E" is also compatible, but is the 3-button version (Lock, Unlock, Trunk + PANIC). The 3-button seems to be a bit more available. More copies of those because more models need 3 and they work fine for both. Personally, I like the 2 button better. It just feels better.

[4A Play]

I'm in a similar position to the OP. Purchased my 2001 and it came with a single broken key fob. No valet key. Purchased a replacement key off ebay with the same FCC ID and purchased a blank blade. Can I simply have the blank blade cut to match my broken FOBs blade, and then use the broken FOB in the ignition to program the new ebay FOB with freshly cut blade? Or do I need a working FOB to program the new FOB? Cant I have a smith cut me a new valet key on any old VAG blank while im there? Do I need to do anything special to avoid my immobilizer being activated?

Thanks guys!