Originally Posted by
348695;eljay
So, am I really on borrowed time here with the belt or can I get a couple of weeks (a couple of hundred miles) on it, before I get everything organized for the service? I surely hope I don't discover anything else along the way or I might have as well bought a new engine! :)
Replacing the existing timing belt is not an absolute emergency, but anytime there are any cracks in the belt requires replacement asap. The existing timing belt is not in a critical condition requiring immediate replacement. You should be alright running the current belt for a short time before replacement.
Originally Posted by
348695;eljay
How strong should the tension feel be on the timing belt? Should it have the same resistance feel as when you push down on a section of the accessory belt? The TB tension is certainly softer than my acc belt.
The timing belt is not supposed to be drum tight. A synchronous belt like the timing belt self tensions as load and speed increase, so the static tension will seem to be to low, but a small amount of free play (~ 1/8", 4 > 6 mm,) or capable of being twisted at least 45 degrees and no more than 90 degrees in the midpoint of the longest run between pulleys, is correctly tensioned.
Originally Posted by
77478;Charles-waite
^^ Agreed. And go OEM (Continental) with it. None of that Gates racing nonsense....
I've used conti belts on my past two timing belt changes (both from Europa) and the quality has been good as far as I can tell. The b7 has been on that belt for 25k but I haven't bothered to check on it. I should give it a quick gander sometime.
Also I always was under the assumption that Conti was the OEM manufacturer. Guess not?
Continental and Gates are both OEM (not the blue Gates "racing" belt,) for Audi. Conti is a larger volume OE supplier compared to Gates for European manufacturers.
The blue Gates Racing belt is manufactured using more expensive premium materials and lower production volume compared to the OE Gates timing belt.
I have seen Continental timing belts that look really roughly finished out of the box, with questionable manufacturing precision and quality due to appearance, (could have been counterfeit,) sold by reputable vendors.
IMO, Gates timing belts are the best belts available.
The entire valve cover looks like crap, resulting from road salt spray due to missing engine bay lower cover/belly pan. Replacing the existing corroded valve cover with a good condition used cover, cleaned then painted is the prefered solution, considering the time involved and the likely less than satisfactory results of a scrub of the existing VC since the post scrub valve cover surface will still be rough and pitted.
Only a cosmetic problem, but the VC appearance characterizes the condition of the engine, and by extension, the entire car, so it's worth addressing.
A missing belly pan/engine bay lower cover should be reinstalled to minimize/prevent damage to the engine bay equipment and systems due to salty road water spray, dirt and mud. The belly pan also increases fuel economy on the highway, by streamlining the front of the underbody minimizing air flow drag on the car caused by turbulent air flow under the engine bay when the lower cover in not installed. An installed belly pan/cover minimizes exposure of the engine bay components to contamination from road dirt and dust, snow, mud and salty road water spray from the front tires, and functionally extends the operating life and reliability of the moving and somewhat exposed parts like the engine accessory drive belt and idler pulley bearings, timing belt and belt guide/tensioning parts, alternator, and other engine bay components.
Reply With Quote
. But ask Keith what a continental belt did to his engine.
Bookmarks