17z install, rubbing rotor

[jbain2]

Installed a set of 17z calipers. Have a set of 2 piece rotors from Apikol. After install I am getting a rubbing of the caliper on the rotor with the wheel turned to all the way to the right. The rubbing in occurring on the inside of the rotor. Tried installing washers to bring the caliper inboard and now get rubbing on the outside of the rotor. The rubbing is coming from the rotor guides (not sure what they are called). See pic. Anyone else have experience with this? It is scoring the rotor. Outside of the rotor itself being too thick (supposedly 32 mm from Apikol) which I haven't measured yet, not sure why else this would happen as these are fixed calipers. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks.

[demonmk2]

Might actually be a rotor issue I would call apikal

[LINDW4LL]

It only happens when your steering wheel is turned to the right- not the left? Is it happening only on one side, or with both left and right brakes?

I'd guess a rotor issue initially, but the circumstances under which this is happening are really confusing to me.

[jbain2]

Only one side. Only when steering wheel is turned to the right. Just did an entire suspension refresh as well so I can't blame it on that.


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[mauromj]

Just looked at these rotors online. Are you using their "caliper mounting brackets"?.

Interesting that they say they need these. I don't understand how they could have a bracket for them when the hole spacing is perfect and offset is already close?

[jbain2]

^No bracket needed for the S4. Need it for the A4.


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[bobkatkat]

Are the rotors for the 18z? There is a slight difference between the mounting tab thickness on the 17z and the 18z.

[LINDW4LL]

No 18Z rotors wouldn't fit with 17Zs...

I just can't wrap my head around why it only happens when the wheel is turned (and only to the right, to boot). The hub/rotor/and caliper are all fixed in relation to each other, so it makes no sense that steering would affect it.

[jbain2]

No 18Z rotors wouldn't fit with 17Zs...

I just can't wrap my head around why it only happens when the wheel is turned (and only to the right, to boot). The hub/rotor/and caliper are all fixed in relation to each other, so it makes no sense that steering would affect it.

I know. All that stuff should be fixed in place and track the same whether the wheel is straight or turned.


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[Austonwerner4]

Are you sure the rotor is 100% flush against the hub?

[jbain2]

Are you sure the rotor is 100% flush against the hub?

Anything is possible I guess, but I would hate to think I would have missed that.


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[Austonwerner4]

Anything is possible I guess, but I would hate to think I would have missed that.


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Might as well check. It's only 2 bolts that hold the caliper on.

[mauromj]

If it only happens when you turn, lets take a step back and look at what would cause that when turning occurs.

A. The caliper is not securely mounted to the spindle and is rubbing against the rotor at times.

B. The rotor is moving out of place and is rubbing on the caliper. The only way I see this being possible is if the wheel bearing is bad and your CV, hub, rotor is wobbling causing contact with the caliper.

If you caliper is securely mounted and is flush with the spindle, my bet is scenario B. is happening.

[rani_aridi]

If the wheel is mounted straight then the rotor must be as well. And if the wheel is not on flush then it would be very obvious. My bet is wheel bearing.

[nynoah]

most likely the early signs of the wheel bearing going out. You can also swap rotors from one side to another to elimnate the problem being in the rotor itself. They are free floating if I remember correctly.

[audacity]

wheel bearing. 100% makes sense when your turning. and only on one side.

devils in the details, 100% refresh would have had new bearings.

[jbain2]

Just wanted to provide a follow up to this. Not the wheel bearing, but effectively the same thing. The axle bolt had backed out. I have no idea how. I have not touched it in the year and a half that I owned it. I nearly fell on my face when I went to loosen it with my breaker bar and steel pipe extension. Expecting it to have a whole bunch of resistance, but the thing spun freely. Retorqued to spec, no further rubbing. Glad it wasn't the wheel bearing honestly, turned out to be a 5 minute job.

[vavJETTAw36]

I guess it didn't occur to you that maybe it backed out because you keep reusing the same axle bolt? Better order a new one and replace it when it comes in or you'll be having the same issue.


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[astondan4]

If the axle bolt was loose i would check at least the hub to see if its damaged or loose. I had a bad wheel bearing and when taking it apart the hub came out without having to press it out. Reassembled because I had no other choice and used bearing filler in the meantime. After a short time the bolt loosened up a little and the bearing blew out again. Replaced bearing again along with hub and new bolt and have had no further issues.

[vavJETTAw36]

If the axle bolt was loose i would check at least the hub to see if its damaged or loose. I had a bad wheel bearing and when taking it apart the hub came out without having to press it out. Reassembled because I had no other choice and used bearing filler in the meantime. After a short time the bolt loosened up a little and the bearing blew out again. Replaced bearing again along with hub and new bolt and have had no further issues.

You replaced your hub as well? Why? Seems extreme to replace hub and bearing at once. Hubs are quite expensive


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[jbain2]

The rubbing has gone away. No other signs that the bearing is bad. Was able to torque the axle bolt appropriately. Will check in a week or so to make sure it's still tight. Not sure why it backed out though?


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[astondan4]

You replaced your hub as well? Why? Seems extreme to replace hub and bearing at once. Hubs are quite expensive


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I had to replace the hub. Because of the car riding on the support of the hub from the bad wheel bearing it caused just enough gap to throw things off and speed up the wear of the new bearing I put in. The bearing filler take up the slack. I was able to pull the hub itself out of the bearing by hand. Once a new hub and bearing was pressed in all is good. The hub wasnt that expensive at all. The upright would have been but that is fine. And to the OP, I was just mentioned what happened to me just as a heads up but if everything seems happy now, all good.