2004 3.0Q Good deal or no?

[CT TURBO A4]

Hey guys, I'm about to take home a 2004 A4 3.0Q with 151k for $1650 that I think is a good deal and wanted to get a second opinion.

Pros
-no CEL
-auto drives and shift smooth

Cons
-some minor body damage
-no record of timing belt/water pump ever replaced
-wiper transmission frozen
-needs all 4 brakes and rotors
-power steering fluid is abnormally low
-stock head unit is shot (says he shorted it out trying to get a business card out of the CD player)
-needs tires soon

[jayiszraw]

That wiper transmission is a huge pita. Are you unable to find a better option with up to date maintenance? On to the ps fluid, b6 are notorious for leacking racks and along with an auto tranny its not exactly easy to get to. Unless your ready to double what you spending on it in maintenance id move on.

[imnuts]

You're looking at close to the same amount you're paying for it in parts to repair what you just listed as being wrong, likely more. Add labor if you aren't doing it all yourself, and you're looking at a hefty repair bill. It could be a decent car after you get it all repaired, but I'd be considered that if the owner let all of that go, what else wasn't done, and what was done improperly to save money.

[jesse500]

Wiper motor and track is very easy to replace. I have a working motor/track with arms for sale. Works good. direct bolt in. takes 10 minutes to change

[CT TURBO A4]

Well, its in my driveway now soooo lol. Ended up AAA'in it home to be on the safe side. (gotta get use out of the plus lol). I forgot to mention it did come with a stack of all the maintenance he did and 2 Key Fobs and manuals, oh and a non-broken glove box. He just recently let it go to shit cuz he got a company car and let this sit and only drive it once in a while. I did test drive it on the highway at 80, no other funny noises or anything. I figured worst case scenario spending about $2500 at a really good indy shop that I take my B5 to, to get all the important things fixed (Complete Timing Belt job, Wiper Trans, brakes/rotors, oil change) to get it drivable without worrying about major break downs.

Another option is, I can do the oil change and if the Wiper trans is like my B5 1.8t then I can do that as well. I got a mechanic friend that works on audi's who says he can do the t-belt job and the brakes for me on the side. I know you need the cam locking tool which he can get from his boss.

(Worst Case Scenerio - $1650 (Price) + $2500 (Repairs) = $4150. Whereas KBB in excellent condition = ~$3400 NADA Clean retail = ~$6,400)
So $4150 for a pretty decent A4 with maintenance complete, felt like a good deal to me. While I see them going for 4-5K and may need brakes or t-belt soon enough.

Here is my immediate to do list with my mechanic if he decides to do it.
Everything has been rounded up.

Timing Belt Job
Parts - $550
Labor – $500

Wiper Trans
Part - $160
Labor – Free/?

Brakes F/R
Front Pads – $45
Front Rotors – $130
Rear Pads – $35
Rear Rotors – $100
Labor - $100
== ~ $1,620 +/-

So $1,650 + $1,620 = $3,270 +/- (Best Case Scenario)

[CT TURBO A4]

Wiper motor and track is very easy to replace. I have a working motor/track with arms for sale. Works good. direct bolt in. takes 10 minutes to change

I might be interested, PM me and maybe we can work out a deal. Thanks man.

[CT TURBO A4]

Also you guys think its a good idea to flush the Tranny with 151K miles? My mechanic says a BG flush is a good idea and wouldn't hurt it. Hopefully the power steering rack is still ok. Guess I will see once I top off the fluid, and hopefully no leaks.

[T0M3K]

Wiper Trans
Part - $160
Labor – Free/?

My wiper transmission failed as well and you could try saving it first.
Take it out, disassemble it (which is huge PITA since it is frozen, you may have to bang it out, heat, cool, etc, but be careful of threads for wiper arms, I damaged mine )
then clean, lubricate and assemble again, works better than new (after fixing f*d up threads)

But buying one for $160 could well worthy if you have no spare time

[CT TURBO A4]

My wiper transmission failed as well and you could try saving it first.
Take it out, disassemble it (which is huge PITA since it is frozen, you may have to bang it out, heat, cool, etc, but be careful of threads for wiper arms, I damaged mine )
then clean, lubricate and assemble again, works better than new (after fixing f*d up threads)

But buying one for $160 could well worthy if you have no spare time

Yeah, I fixed mine on my B5, but that lasted like 3-4 years, and then I said F'it and bought a new one so no more headaches. lol I think I'm about to put in the order now so its on the way.

[imnuts]

Good luck getting the 3.0 timing belt done at a shop for only $500 in labor, unless the shop has really low hourly rates, I don't think that's happening. I also feel like $100 to do all of the brakes is a very low estimate as well.

[jayiszraw]

Also you guys think its a good idea to flush the Tranny with 151K miles? My mechanic says a BG flush is a good idea and wouldn't hurt it. Hopefully the power steering rack is still ok. Guess I will see once I top off the fluid, and hopefully no leaks.

I think auto rx is the best stuff out there

[CT TURBO A4]

Good luck getting the 3.0 timing belt done at a shop for only $500 in labor, unless the shop has really low hourly rates, I don't think that's happening. I also feel like $100 to do all of the brakes is a very low estimate as well.

At a shop, definitely not, but I meant on the side like in his home garage. My friend does brakes and body work at his house for me, labor is usually $100 for all 4.

I think auto rx is the best stuff out there

I might just have to try that stuff. On a side note, I've never changed the transmission fluid on my B5 5 speed either and it have almost 200K now, I don't know if its a good idea though.

[diuvic]

3.0 owner here! Welcome to the club. One thing to note: You will need to replace the control arms if they've never been replaced. I can also tell you that you're probably due for a suspension refresh. If you have any other 3.0 questions, send me a PM or just ask here.


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[eljay]

^^ Yes, add suspension/control arms refresh to your list. Since you mentioned that the tires are worn, you don't want to put new tires on only to have them wear out quickly due to neglected suspension parts causing misalignment and tire wear.
The stuff adds up as I picked up a high mileage B6 too, but I love this car. Even if you were to buy a $10k car, you wouldn't be guaranteed not spending money on it, so if you plan on keeping this one for a long time, do all that you need now, so you get to use the benefits.

[SJorge3442]

See, I would never advise someone who can't do their own wrenching to purchase a used German car. Its just not a good combo. In the end, you may come out on top, if the car is actually as clean as you claim. Don't wait on the timing belt, or else you'll be rebuilding 2 heads and 30 valves. Nothing about that is cheap. I recommend the Blauparts kit for the timing belt. Also, get your parts off of Rock Auto. You can certainly get your brake parts much cheaper than your estimates.

[Sales@DriveAuto]

^^ Yes, add suspension/control arms refresh to your list. Since you mentioned that the tires are worn, you don't want to put new tires on only to have them wear out quickly due to neglected suspension parts causing misalignment and tire wear.
The stuff adds up as I picked up a high mileage B6 too, but I love this car. Even if you were to buy a $10k car, you wouldn't be guaranteed not spending money on it, so if you plan on keeping this one for a long time, do all that you need now, so you get to use the benefits.

Plus, there's a lot of shared labor and downtime when you do it all at once

[CyberPMG]

Since you don't have the history of the car, it's a good idea to do full fluids flush (coolant, transmission, differentials, brakes). I would also suggest new plugs and ignition coils for a complete tune up to start off fresh (or as fresh as possible). Inspect the control arms and CV joints. You might also want to replace the accessory belt along with the timing belt (usually included in a complete timing belt kit).

OEM head units for the stereo are cheap to get (unless you're looking to upgrade to a RNS-E or aftermarket).

With the power steering fluid low, there will be some loss over time, but you'll want to check the power steering pump and steering rack for any signs of leaks. Also check on the age of the battery. If it's older than 5 years, consider a replacement.

[customa4]

Also you guys think its a good idea to flush the Tranny with 151K miles? My mechanic says a BG flush is a good idea and wouldn't hurt it. Hopefully the power steering rack is still ok. Guess I will see once I top off the fluid, and hopefully no leaks.

BG products are used by most dealers and I've had nothing but positive experiences with their stuff.

[diuvic]

Since you don't have the history of the car, it's a good idea to do full fluids flush (coolant, transmission, differentials, brakes). I would also suggest new plugs and ignition coils for a complete tune up to start off fresh (or as fresh as possible). Inspect the control arms and CV joints. You might also want to replace the accessory belt along with the timing belt (usually included in a complete timing belt kit).

OEM head units for the stereo are cheap to get (unless you're looking to upgrade to a RNS-E or aftermarket).

With the power steering fluid low, there will be some loss over time, but you'll want to check the power steering pump and steering rack for any signs of leaks. Also check on the age of the battery. If it's older than 5 years, consider a replacement.

+1 million on the battery. I still had my stock VW battery on my 2002 in 2015! It had a date stamp from the factory and everything! Haha. It left me stranded and I thought my car had finally died.


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[CT TURBO A4]

3.0 owner here! Welcome to the club. One thing to note: You will need to replace the control arms if they've never been replaced. I can also tell you that you're probably due for a suspension refresh. If you have any other 3.0 questions, send me a PM or just ask here.


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Thanks man! I figured at this mileage it will need suspension parts, but didn't hear anything funny so I'll check it out as needed or in the Spring.

^^ Yes, add suspension/control arms refresh to your list. Since you mentioned that the tires are worn, you don't want to put new tires on only to have them wear out quickly due to neglected suspension parts causing misalignment and tire wear.
The stuff adds up as I picked up a high mileage B6 too, but I love this car. Even if you were to buy a $10k car, you wouldn't be guaranteed not spending money on it, so if you plan on keeping this one for a long time, do all that you need now, so you get to use the benefits.

Exactly how I feel, all cars require maintenance, so paying more doesn't necessarily mean you won't have to do anything.

See, I would never advise someone who can't do their own wrenching to purchase a used German car. Its just not a good combo. In the end, you may come out on top, if the car is actually as clean as you claim. Don't wait on the timing belt, or else you'll be rebuilding 2 heads and 30 valves. Nothing about that is cheap. I recommend the Blauparts kit for the timing belt. Also, get your parts off of Rock Auto. You can certainly get your brake parts much cheaper than your estimates.

Trust me I try and do all the wrenching that I can. Sometimes thought I'd rather have peace of mind/less headaches of things not working out (ie. Timing belt job) and pay to get it done. And yes, timing belt is getting done Monday, the car hasn't been driven after the test drive, and I ordered the Blauparts kit.

Plus, there's a lot of shared labor and downtime when you do it all at once

Since you don't have the history of the car, it's a good idea to do full fluids flush (coolant, transmission, differentials, brakes). I would also suggest new plugs and ignition coils for a complete tune up to start off fresh (or as fresh as possible). Inspect the control arms and CV joints. You might also want to replace the accessory belt along with the timing belt (usually included in a complete timing belt kit).

OEM head units for the stereo are cheap to get (unless you're looking to upgrade to a RNS-E or aftermarket).

With the power steering fluid low, there will be some loss over time, but you'll want to check the power steering pump and steering rack for any signs of leaks. Also check on the age of the battery. If it's older than 5 years, consider a replacement.

BG products are used by most dealers and I've had nothing but positive experiences with their stuff.

Yup, this is true. Actually my mechanic is quoting me $500 for the t-belt job, might just do all the fluids and vaccum lines while its on the lift. lol spend now, or spend later.

[CT TURBO A4]

Speaking of the battery. The PO actually had just replaced the battery about 2 weeks before I bought it, but he mentioned after he got it changed that if he didn't start the car for about 5 days or so, it needed a jump so he thinks either they put it in wrong or there is a draw after he got it changed out.

I noticed that sitting parked in the driveway the hazard light, the lights that illuminate the headlight switch, and the compass on the rearview mirror are staying on, is there something I have to do to turn this off? I think that is how the battery might be dying.

[diuvic]

I don't mean this in a mean or dumb way but, are you making sure the light switch is turned all the way to the left or the "off position"? It seems that you're leaving the lights on. Or at least the parking light on. I think. If I read your comment right


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[CT TURBO A4]

I don't mean this in a mean or dumb way but, are you making sure the light switch is turned all the way to the left or the "off position"? It seems that you're leaving the lights on. Or at least the parking light on. I think. If I read your comment right


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Haha, yes the lights are definitely off, I noticed it does actually turn off after a while, maybe its timed or something.

[imnuts]

Do the fog lights also stay on? Your car may have the coming home feature. There would be a little knob right by the headlight switch if it does, and this adjusts the duration that the lights stay on.

[PreciseD]

Also you guys think its a good idea to flush the Tranny with 151K miles? My mechanic says a BG flush is a good idea and wouldn't hurt it. Hopefully the power steering rack is still ok. Guess I will see once I top off the fluid, and hopefully no leaks.

I would not touch it if its working fine. I did a "flush" and had nothing but problems after.

[diuvic]

I would not touch it if its working fine. I did a "flush" and had nothing but problems after.

Really? There was a post on here last week that asked the same question and everyone was like "Better late than never." I've never done it but wanted to after reading that thread. Hmm...


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[Northern_B6]

Really? There was a post on here last week that asked the same question and everyone was like "Better late than never." I've never done it but wanted to after reading that thread. Hmm...


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I only changed my auto tranny fluid, no flush. Still shifts just as crisp as before, noticeable difference tho when it's cold outside.

I remember a thread explaning why a flush is "bad", but I can't seem to find it.

[imnuts]

I flushed my transmission fluid the first time at ~140k miles, then again at 200k. Nothing but smoother shifting in both cases.

Sent from my DROID Turbo 2

[CT TURBO A4]

Do the fog lights also stay on? Your car may have the coming home feature. There would be a little knob right by the headlight switch if it does, and this adjusts the duration that the lights stay on.

No, they're not staying on. The car is at the shop now, I'm just gonna have to see when I get it back to figure out what's going on.

I would not touch it if its working fine. I did a "flush" and had nothing but problems after.

Really? There was a post on here last week that asked the same question and everyone was like "Better late than never." I've never done it but wanted to after reading that thread. Hmm...


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I only changed my auto tranny fluid, no flush. Still shifts just as crisp as before, noticeable difference tho when it's cold outside.

I remember a thread explaning why a flush is "bad", but I can't seem to find it.

I flushed my transmission fluid the first time at ~140k miles, then again at 200k. Nothing but smoother shifting in both cases.

Sent from my DROID Turbo 2

Yeah, I've heard mixed things about flushing vs just changing out the fluid and filter for the transmission. I think I might just add some Auto-RX to the fluid to do some cleaning and then change the fluid and filter out after driving it for a while. Might be safer than a flush.