Question on front bumper removal and radiator change tips?

[Mike02A4]

I have read how it comes off so i'm not asking for a how-to. Just need to know if the fog lights have to be removed or not?

Any tips for the radiator change? From what I've read seems fairly straight forward: remove bumper, remove hose to drain, remove ps cooler, remove air deflectors, remove 4 condenser bolts, remove 2 pins for radiator and it should pull out, yes?

I am going to pick up beck arnley coolant from the parts store. which one should I use?

2002 a4 1.8t 5spd

[customa4]

No, the fog lights do not have to be removed, just disconnected to get the bumper out of the way. Sounds like you've got the radiator removal process down too. I'm not sure of Beck Arnley but I know my local Napa stocks the G12 coolant. I've also heard of people using Pentofrost coolant as well which I know is stocked at Auto Zone. I'm not sure what coolant is right for Pentofrost. Quick search should come up with the answer.

[Mike02A4]

Sounds like you've got the radiator removal process down too.

Yeah thanks, i've been watching a few video's on youtube. Seems fairly straight forward. Just hoping the bumper comes off easy and I hope the upper & lower radiator hoses pull off easy.

What about reinstalling the bumper? Is it a pain?

The store where I ordered the radiator has beck arnley euro coolant thats why I was asking about it. Im gonna buy a jug when I go pick up the radiator later.

[chad99]

I also am planning on doing this on my wagon, I also ordered new upper and lower hoses since the darn things are made of plastic and I have almost 170k on them

[sa_seahawker]

Fog lights can stay in. The harness is disconnected by the drivers headlight along with the light washer hose. But you will have to at least remove the fog grilles to get access to the bumper bolts. Small tip for further reference: if you ever move onto placing the front core support into the "service position" that requires you to remove the bumper shock absorbers. Most people use one of those three bolts per side to screw into the frame to keep the support from falling off. If you use the bumper bolts instead of the shock bolts, you will get an extra two inches of clearance between the support and the front of the motor. This becomes especially handy during timing belt jobs.

Also the hoses can be a pain if they haven't been off in a while. Pull out the retaining clip (you don't have to remove it, it will lock out after about an inch) and then start yanking on it. Be sure to check the o-rings are still in place also. If they haven't been replaced recently, I would recommend replacement but it's rarely necessary. When replacing, clip the retaining clip closed on the hose and push. As it slides into place, you will see/feel the clip expand and then lock back down when it's in place.

Putting the bumper back on can feel like a balancing act at times but is not impossible. Just go slow and make sure the bumper lines up to the sock supports.

Also, seeing as how you're already there and you have a high mileage car, I would consider a t-stat and J-plug swap. Both are pretty known to go bad. Finally make sure you get your G12 coolant from a VW dealer if you can't find it cheaper online. Some Audi dealers mark the exact same bottle up 100% ($50 vs $23)

Oh and make sure you use distilled or purified water when you mix it.

[john_gonzo]

Audi tool 3369:

[sa_seahawker]

Why buy a "tool" when you can repurpose the equipment u already have? Those are waste of money. Ask anyone...they just use the bolts.

[deyrag]

I have that exact same special tool in my toolbox.
If you put the threaded end of the tool at the head end of the bolt the friction stops the carrier sliding back towards the engine which is what happens if you just use the bumper bolts.
Also have a very similar engine/transmission alignment tool.

[john_gonzo]

Why buy a "tool" when you can repurpose the equipment u already have? Those are waste of money. Ask anyone...they just use the bolts.

Okay.

[Mike02A4]

All done, not a terrible job. Only pita part was the bumper and bleeding the system. Now that I know what i'm doing, the bumper isn't a big deal. It's still not all bled though, I have no heat. I am going to try back filling the heater core. I tried bleeding it by pulling off the top hose to expose the bleeder hole but theres no coolant circulating through it. The bottom hose is hot but not circulating.

Getting the hoses off was easy. I was able to hit it lightly with a screwdriver and a hammer and they came off. I did replace the O rings, the radiator came with new ones.

[deyrag]

Get one of these, 5 minutes start to finish.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ot...FQ2VfgodteUI9Q

[SJorge3442]

Get one of these, 5 minutes start to finish.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ot...FQ2VfgodteUI9Q

Ecs actually has one that is only $65. Its a surprise that its cheaper

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Mike02A4]

Gonna flush the heater core this afternoon. The inlet hose is hot but nothing coming out of the outlet hose of the core. Gonna try the back flush clr flush that lots of guys have tried. Then rinse it out forwards/backwards with a garden hose then i'll fill the heater core with coolant and then fill/bleed the system one last time hopefully.

[DiertyEuroSpec]

Which radiator did you go with? Nissens?

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[Mike02A4]

Yeah nissens. Got it from a local parts store about $140. Cheaper online but needed it asap. Not a big cost savings once you factor in shipping.

[Charles.waite]

I put a Nissens in my b6. Looked like a high quality part for sure.

Also was that coolant you bought Vag g12 compatible? Saying its "Euro" compatible doesn't mean much when different Euro companies specify different additives. I've used pentofrost in the past and it's been good. I just go to their websites and check which is compatible with my model. Never ever ever trust the moron parts store guys with what they recommend. Doing that usually ends up with cursing and tears.

[old guy]

Pentofrost-E is fairly easy to find and it is completely compatible: Clicky click®