Oil change on a 2015 RS5 via oil drain plug

**ak_siberian** · 12-08-2015 03:46 PM

To start I'd like to thank llBen in the UK for the helpful tips as well as forwarding a diagram of the skid plate from ETKA. I'll post a brief overview below for anyone interested in doing so themselves.

I'll start off by saying that you really do need a lift. I'm sure there are ways around, but when I tried sans one I gave up. Also since you have to turn the wheel to get to the last screw in the wheel liner, a Rhinoramp is of no use.

* There are at least 30 screws of various types: Philips, quarter turn, torx, allen, XZNs etc. (I lost one... I'm sure I'll gain an extra 0.2 mpg)

* The skid plate comes off (eventually) with the black plastic air dams

* There are 5 (on each side) screws on the bottom of the wheel liner that need to be removed. In order to get to the last one (on each side) you need (at least on my 285s) to turn the wheel hard right or left to gain access

* It does require a crush washer. This washer may have embedded itself onto the bottom housing and the threads. You thus need to carefully pry this old washer out and replace it. Please check the update post for part numbers.

* The drain plug is a 6mm Allen which was a pain to get to fit due to the paint - 5.5 wouldn't fit and 7 was too big and it was tight as hell. Make sure you get the socket all the way into the plug before applying any force as it will strip in no time.

In over 40 years of working on cars, I must say I've never seen a more over engineered design to hold a flimsy piece of metal in place. Whilst i had it out I noticed that the pan had an indentation pre-stamped so I thought, how about cutting that out and making an access port to the drain plug. But when I fitted it back temporarily to see whether it aligned, alas it didn't and given where it is there's no real way to do this. However now that I've done it once I'm sure it will take me less than 1.5 to 2 hours the next time.

I've now, at 926 miles changed out the factory 5-30 or whatever they had in there for 10.2 qts of 0-40w Mobil1 with a new filter (same as the VW V8 Touareg I may add - so save some bucks rather than ordering an "Audi" oil filter) and can look forward to 50 below in comfort.

Post if you have any questions. I did take some iPhone pics but they turned out of such poor quality that I'm not even bothering to post other than the ETKA diagram of the skid plate, thanx to llBen again. It doesn't show the liner screws nor the air inlet screws that are bolted onto the frame, but need to be removed, but it's the best I found. There is absolutely no information on AllData.

siberian

PS Some of the marking by llBen referring to Torx are actually XZN or triple square screws

Skid Plate

**PEM** · 12-08-2015 05:26 PM

Why not just use an oil suction pump?

**ak_siberian** · 12-08-2015 05:30 PM

The reasons are as follows:

1) I'm changing from 5-30w to 0-40w and wanted to make sure all was out

2) I've done the first 1000 miles (or 926 to be precise) and I wanted to see if there were any break-in issues with filings on the magnetic oil plug (nothing and oil was clean as a the day it was put in)

3) My fear of jamming something in there and it breaking (like dipsticks have been known to)

4) I needed a challenge

Hope that explains it :)

siberian

**PEM** · 12-08-2015 05:35 PM

Gotcha. Wouldn't an extractor get more oil from the pan opposed to the drain plug? What's the positioning of the plug, pointing out of the side or the bottom of the pan?

Now that you've done the first one via traditional method, are you going to continue doing it that way or use a pump?

**ak_siberian** · 12-08-2015 05:48 PM

It's at the bottom pointing slightly to the right as you look towards the back of the vehicle. I doubt that an extractor would get as much as gravity working it's magic.

I'll probably continue doing it this way. It allows me to see what the drain plug collected in terms of metal filings (there is no way of doing that via a suction method nor actually cleaning the magnetic plug), and it's what I've always done (which is why I really miss a working dip stick for example). Lastly, I would hate to have something get stuck or break off inside there.

siberian

**PEM** · 12-08-2015 05:57 PM

Well with the extractor you just slide a rubber hose down where you should stick the dip stick in so unless you're using an old and busted hose, I would think there's a very minimal chance for something to get stuck down there.

But yeah, very nice guide you've written! A little too much work for me though so when the time comes, I'll probably purchase an extractor and go that route haha. I just wanted to pick your brain a little bit.

**jkownz** · 12-08-2015 06:10 PM

actually glad you posted this. there is almost no info on changing your oil yourself on a RS. good to know as well that its roughly 10.2q of oil. Even tho i recently purchased a pump for the RS. I think every other oil change I will be doing it this way.

**ak_siberian** · 12-08-2015 06:16 PM

Hey, that's why a forum like this is priceless. Glad you found it useful and apologies that my old iPhone 4 that came in from the cold took such lousy pics.

Please feel free to ask questions. As I said there is NO information on AllData and the ETKA drawing that IIBen forwarded me is for a 2013 the only year any info is available for the RS5 so it's bleeding edge all the way.

Yes, I confirm it is exactly 10.2 QTS of oil not only by draining it all out or by AoA whom I consulted given the various numbers floating around but by checking with the readout as well once I refilled.

I think that your thought JKownz is great to alternate between using the suction vs the oil plug method.

Can anyone tell me what diameter hose you use for the suction pump? I've got a pump I used once and would like to get it ready in case and how long for it to confortable reach the pump resting on the floor.

Be happy to answer any further questions and give back to the forum for all the help provided

siberian

**ak_siberian** · 12-08-2015 06:18 PM

Pick away :)

siberian

Originally Posted by PEM

Well with the extractor you just slide a rubber hose down where you should stick the dip stick in so unless you're using an old and busted hose, I would think there's a very minimal chance for something to get stuck down there.

But yeah, very nice guide you've written! A little too much work for me though so when the time comes, I'll probably purchase an extractor and go that route haha. I just wanted to pick your brain a little bit.

**ak_siberian** · 12-09-2015 10:25 AM

Some last thoughts I'd left out concerning the oil filter and plug.

The oil filter is, as all of you know, on top of the engine in the back visible when you remove the engine cover (for those who have it). It takes a 32mm socket and it's best to partially unscrew it prior to removing the oil drain plug so as to break the vacuum and allow the oil in the canister to also flow out of the plug. Contrary to the Tregs, there wasn't a huge gush as 10.2 qts. exited the plug, still make sure you have a container that will handle this much oil and that you'll be able to dispose of it safely. Oil eater is a product I use when I can't recycle the oil in a furnace.

As I mentioned earlier, the V8 Touareg oil filter is the same as the one used on the Audis. It's a Mahle part. number OX3504DECO (VW part number: 079-198-405-E). I got a whole load of them from RockAuto when they were having a sale for $13.90 each. I bet if you go and order one for a "Audi", the price will miraculously jump by 10 dollars a piece :) .

Make sure you remove the old gasket from the housing but do not use paper towels or cloth in the housing as you may leave fiber/paper behind in the housing which will then travel throughout your engine. I normally give it a bath in a parts tub and dry it with an air hose. Add a little oil to the gasket and the threads to help it when you screw it back in. Getting the filter out of its housing, given it's design, can be either easy or a real pain. You need to break the seat. By holding the assembly in one hand, try and break the seating of the filter by applying force at 90 degrees. Note that it is keyed and the little tab goes on the bottom which then fits into a hole which will spin the filter as you screw it down.

The oil drain plug. I'm not certain, but I'll swear that it's the same part as in the V8 Touareg. I always keep a couple in stock as they will strip really easily if you don't get your Allen into it properly. So be careful as mine was really torqued down and coupled with the paint made it really hard to get the 6mm Allen socket in there.

Just some last thoughts, hope this helps someone. Post any questions

siberian

PS Here is a pic I should have taken earlier showing the oil filter at the back of the engine with the molded plastic hexagonal shape

Oil Filter Location

**ak_siberian** · 12-09-2015 12:17 PM

IMPORTANT UPDATE

Just got off the phone with Audi Tech Support. I had a nagging feeling about this crush washer and whether the RS5 with the 6mm Allen plug actually took a crush washer or not. Well it turns out it does. It seems that since the washer is so slim that it crushes itself into the threads and you have to (as I was hesitantly prying with a pick) remove the old washer and put a new one in making sure of course you don't damage the threads. I'll keep an eye for any drips though they said that it should be OK and provide a good seal at least one extra time.

So just to make perfectly clear and apologies for the misleading tip above, you do need a crush washer. It is the same one as the Touareg. Jeff V provided the following Audi part numbers. I would order a spare plug.

O-ring 14x20, PN: N0138157
Plug M14X1,50, PN: N0160276

siberian

**rasetsu** · 12-09-2015 01:11 PM

Thanks for doing a DIY oil change! And also for confirming that I do not need to challenge myself with it! I had gotten an extractor last year but was still kind of toying with doing the change the old fashioned way because the extractor has only an 8 qt capacity meaning I would have to stop, empty, and restart, but seeing the diagram of the under body panels, I think I'm good with the extractor.

**ak_siberian** · 12-09-2015 02:18 PM

I think Jkownz' suggestion of alternating between the suction method and the skid plate removal is the correct approach. There is no way to know if any metal filings are present but more importantly you will never be able to clean the magnetic oil plug doing it the suction way. Again, experience of doing it several times will cut down the time as well as what was a "discovery" process (never having done something so convoluted for something so simple) does mean that I will be more confident and it will be less a discovery and hesitation of prying off the jammed crush washer for example. I should have done that as my gut told me there must be one vs the fear of damaging the pan/threads. Also I can't emphasize enough to have a spare oil plug available as they strip really easily and it's a couple bucks to have the peace of mind. Given I'm 400+ miles from a "dealer" and servicing 2 Touaregs and now the RS5 (not to mention a friends' 2001 Audi and a 2010 A4), I'm pretty much on my own as well as relying on the Forum and your expertise. So whatever I can give back, I'll be happy to do that.

I also bought a Rakjack so I will experiment with using that the next time to lift it 13.75" one side at a time and placing floor jacks to support the vehicle when underneath given that you must be able to move the tires to get to the liner screw. I tried to use the rhino ramps on my first attempt but given that my nose was 1/4" from the underside really gave me little room to see what was there; not to mention that I wouldn't have been able to move the tires. So it was wise to stop and rent a ramp at a garage for a couple of hours. Again lesson learned and given the number of screws, losing only one, I consider a win and mpg gained :)

Another solution I was considering is a rapidjack which lifts the entire vehicle a little over 10" off (see youtube for a good evaluation). A better solution than getting an actual lift which may be overkill for folks who neither have the space, money or use.

Thanx for the feedback and again if you have any questions fire away, I'll try and answer as best as I can as there is nothing out there for the RS5 and the little AllData provides is two years old and somehow never covers what you really need. Forget Bentley a total waste of time.

siberian

**rasetsu** · 12-09-2015 02:59 PM

I've already had the dealership do a change at 1K miles and then the complimentary one at 5K miles so I'm confident that the "break in" bits are gone by now. Probably still not a bad idea to do the drain method every 15K miles or so though.

**Leavinu** · 12-09-2015 04:42 PM

50 below = yikes! How does the RS even perform in that kind of climate?

Thanks for sharing the details around the oil change.

**ak_siberian** · 12-09-2015 05:07 PM

I don't expect it to perform any different from my Touaregs. None of them are plugged in, all run on Mobil1 0-40w all year round, I do oil changes based on seasons not mileage; thus Spring and Fall irrespective of mileage, due to condensation, oil and filters get changed.

VW/Audi comes up here to test in the winter (as does MB out of Whitehorse, Canada etc.) and when I test drove for them we had a lot of VW diesels (guess there'll be less of those...), an RS7, Audi Q5 diesel, a couple of Bentleys (why anyone would test a Bentley including one convertible...)) an A3 and a slew of Passats, a convertible Beetle etc. Porsche alas went up to Prudhoe Bay to test, though recently VW/Audi are also testing up in Deadhorse part-way up to Prudhoe Bay well above the arctic circle.

There is a reason to the madness. Folks in northern Europe and elsewhere in climactic conditions other than the sun belt also want to drive sporty or nice cars and manufacturers want to ensure that what works in the Sonoma desert also works in the arctic.

Three years ago I bumped into a test crew from MB that had driven up from Whitehorse in the Canadian Yukon Territory, and left a diesel parked outside overnight and forgot to plug it in. It was frozen solid. I offered to tow them with my Touareg, they weren't amused... oh well, really want to rename my V8 as the "Hummer/Ford recovery vehicle" for the number I've towed out of snow berms...

Thanx for the attaboy, I'll post through the winter anything significant but my first comment is just how incredible the Hakka 8 studded tires from Nokian are. Way over the non studded Hakka 5s on my V8 Treg and the Blizzaks' on the V6. Just incredible grip as one zooms up the mountain where I live and ice patches encountered that I take carefully on the other vehicles with the ESP off, I just counter steer and I'm off! Incredible grip and these are 285R30/20s. Never scrimp on tires...

siberian

PS I expect to drive the RS5 more in winter than summer since the roads are better (meaning there are no pot holes) :)

**Leavinu** · 12-09-2015 10:54 PM

I'd be interested in hearing about the RS' snow abilities when you get some time behind the wheel. That's really what I was referring to as I don't see all that many videos showing the Quattro abilities. They tend to just be 'donut' videos which don't do much for me.

**ak_siberian** · 12-10-2015 01:18 AM

Well the essential drawback of the RS5 is the fact that it's a snowplow in anything over a couple of inches of snow.

Whereas the Touareg with air suspension I can raise nearly a foot and clear just about anything, the RS just buries it's nose in the snow. Also with the 285s, the wheel well gets full real fast and it's pretty amazing to see the Nokians clear the snow out. But come to a stop and the well is packed with snow 270 degrees around. Visibility is crap out back since there's no rear wiper and the tail lights (a recurring gripe I have) get caked with an inch of snow and ice rendering the camera and tail lights useless (which is why I'm still researching a method of installing some LEDs as back up lights).

But other than that, the Quattro system with the right tires like the Nokian Hakka 8s studded really performs well and is a great drive.

More details as the winter sets in as we're barely down to -28F, so a long way to go before we hit the -50 and below.

siberian

**ak_siberian** · 12-10-2015 09:11 AM

Since you asked how RS5s do in cold winter environments, here are some pictures from the Nokian Test Center in Ivalo, Finland. They currently have 5 RS5s for test purposes.

Hope we can put the "why the hell did you buy an RS5 in Alaska?" to bed now. Pictures/copyright courtesy of Nokian Tires through one of my contacts.

RS5s in Ivalo, Finland

Nokian_Hakkapeliitta

siberian

**Leavinu** · 12-10-2015 03:50 PM

Originally Posted by ak_siberian

Since you asked how RS5s do in cold winter environments, here are some pictures from the Nokian Test Center in Ivalo, Finland. They currently have 5 RS5s for test purposes.

Hope we can put the "why the hell did you buy an RS5 in Alaska?" to bed now. Pictures/copyright courtesy of Nokian Tires through one of my contacts.

siberian

This shot should be on the front of an Audi catalog. (minus the other photog of course)

**ak_siberian** · 12-10-2015 04:03 PM

Actually I hope my RS5 will be at the front of the Audi Catalog later this winter :)

Ivalo is actually 3 degrees further North than my place

Minus the other photog???

siberian

**Johnhanson** · 12-10-2015 09:36 PM

Originally Posted by ak_siberian

couple of Bentleys (why anyone would test a Bentley including one convertible...))

Granted I don't live above 60, but a guy I work with drives a Bentley convertible as his winter beater. Don't ask what his summer ride is ;)

But great write up. Very interesting and reaffirms I will not be a diy oil guy on this car - but also that I will not trust the pimply kid at jiffy lube doing it either.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**ak_siberian** · 12-10-2015 09:43 PM

So what does he drive in summer? Nah just kidding :)

As it happens the convertible was totaled as a truck sideswiped the test driver and severed the left rear axle. Took an hour for the FD to get him out. In anything else he'd have been toast.

John I'm sure you've tackled more difficult stuff than this.

Wonder what a dealer charges if you insist on having the oil drained via the plug? I can probably get it down to 3/4 of an hour with some practice but I'm sure he'll charge an hour plus, plus disposal fee, plus oil filter, plus O-ring, plus shop fee, plus misc. fees, plus oil (if it's not the courtesy fill)... man I can see a 400 dollar bill here for an oil change.

You can do this John :)

siberian

**Johnhanson** · 12-10-2015 10:17 PM

Ha. Appreciate the enthusiasm. I have audicare and a good service dept to get me through until warranty is up. After that I will probably do it with a pump. Didn't think the filter would be easily accessible.

Possibly better suited for another thread - but how long are people planning on keeping their RS5s? I honestly could see me changing the oil on this thing 20 years from now. Literally have zero interest in other rigs right now.

And the summer ride is a new Ferrari every 2 years - which I believe has actually made him money the last two trades.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**ak_siberian** · 12-11-2015 12:38 AM

Filter is a piece of cake, if you need a picture I can post. 32mm socket needed. I need to find out the next time I drop the plate if I can cut out some of the plate and make a bolt on cover for the cut-out, that way it will be a piece of cake. But other fish to fry now like the reverse LED pod... since haven't worked out where best to place that.

Damn a new Ferrari... does he need an assistant? :)

siberian

**jkownz** · 12-11-2015 05:55 AM

Originally Posted by ak_siberian

Filter is a piece of cake, if you need a picture I can post. 32mm socket needed. I need to find out the next time I drop the plate if I can cut out some of the plate and make a bolt on cover for the cut-out, that way it will be a piece of cake. But other fish to fry now like the reverse LED pod... since haven't worked out where best to place that.

Damn a new Ferrari... does he need an assistant? :)

siberian

Would love to see a nice option for a cut out bolt on alternative. I would always change out oil from under evrytime if that were possible.

As for duration on keeping my RS. Would love to keep it forever as crazy as that may sound. It covers all aspects for me. Power, handling sound, style and unique and rare and still able to say all those and DD it. Hard to get all that in one vehicle.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

**ak_siberian** · 12-11-2015 10:02 AM

It needs more study. The skid plate is "stamped" and the problem is the drain plug sits just above the edge of that so you can't get a clean level surface to cut out. I'll see if I can draw something up. But my concern was to ensure that I didn't get oil splashing inside the skid plate. So the area allowing for oil to drain must be large enough to accommodate it. If it was a Touareg that are would be huge as it just gushes out, on the RS it's more civilized but still that stamp is in the way. It needs more thought that's clear

As for duration? Unless I find a 71 Cuda 440 convertible in my price range both the Touaregs and RS will be my last vehicles.

siberian

**Leavinu** · 12-11-2015 10:41 AM

Originally Posted by ak_siberian

Minus the other photog???

The other guy (photographer) in the pic partially blocking one of the cars.

**ak_siberian** · 12-11-2015 10:48 AM

Oh I see him now :)

siberian

**ak_siberian** · 12-11-2015 02:34 PM

Out of interest, for those of you who have done the extraction method, what is the hose diameter you use and length of tubing to allow both for it to get to the bottom of the sump as well as allow the extractor to rest on the floor. Most are about 5 feet for each of the two hoses, don't know if that is enough.

siberian

**Leavinu** · 12-11-2015 05:31 PM

Thanks for updating your post with a pic of the oil filter. I presume that's a cartridge style filter in there once the cap is removed?

**ak_siberian** · 12-11-2015 07:10 PM

Yes, see part number above. Order the VW Touareg part number it will be way cheaper than ordering one for an Audi RS... they're exactly the same.

siberian

**Reggie** · 12-12-2015 10:44 AM

Originally Posted by ak_siberian

Out of interest, for those of you who have done the extraction method, what is the hose diameter you use and length of tubing to allow both for it to get to the bottom of the sump as well as allow the extractor to rest on the floor. Most are about 5 feet for each of the two hoses, don't know if that is enough.

siberian

Thanks for this thread. Lots of great information. Where would one put the hose if doing the extraction method. There is no dipstick on this car right?

**Reggie** · 12-12-2015 10:47 AM

Originally Posted by jkownz

Would love to see a nice option for a cut out bolt on alternative. I would always change out oil from under evrytime if that were possible.

As for duration on keeping my RS. Would love to keep it forever as crazy as that may sound. It covers all aspects for me. Power, handling sound, style and unique and rare and still able to say all those and DD it. Hard to get all that in one vehicle.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

On my RS4 I made a trap door for draining the oil.

**ak_siberian** · 12-12-2015 11:47 AM

Can you post some pics? On the RS5 the skid plate is stamped and it would be hard to get a good seal for a trap door. If you could post some pics that would be great as it might generate some ideas or work around.

There is a dip tube with a plug on the top. Remove the plug and insert the hose. On the RS5 you need to remove part of the intake hose nearest the radiator, which is why there is no dip stick.

siberian

**stefdds** · 12-12-2015 11:58 AM

HI Siberian, we will "convert" you yet! I have some pics I can send you that I obtained with the Iphone (nothing revolutionary). My email is [email protected] and it is much easier to send to you than to post here; especially for your question(s). The tubing comes with the MityVac; but to address your specific question it is OD 6mm. This size will pass through the dip-stick tube easily and down to the sump. Stefan

**ak_siberian** · 12-12-2015 12:35 PM

:)

Thanx for that detail. I'll check and see what my oil box came with. Alas, the box only holds 5 qts or so. The good part is that if I use the oil eater recyclable oil system each unit only holds 5 qts. so that will be great in order not to overfill them. The down side is stopping and emptying out the first 5 qts and then starting again.

How long are your tubes? The two end to end seem to be about 10 feet.

Still if I can get some ideas to make a trap door the whole issue will be moot. I'll PM you for the pics (yes, it's a pain to upload pics somewhere and then loink them rather than upload directly. Maybe I can convert the Mods to change that :)

Thanx again

siberian