new clutch slipping?

[giovanniv]

Ok so i just got my clutch replaced with a spec stage 3 clutch with a fidanza lwfw. Now the car shifts into every gear perfect but the only time the car kind of sputters/bounces is when taking off in 1st or in reverse. That's the best way to describe what the car does but it does not smell like burnt clutch. It just kind of shakes/shutters on take off. I have noticed that it the car does not do it if i pump the clutch in neutral and it builds pressure. I even was surprised at how light the clutch feels compared to oem. Is that normal? Also the clutch was not bled as the system was not opened up. Any ideas?

[rani_aridi]

Hard to tell from just that description but it could be that you aren't used to the reduced mass of the lwfw.

[getslideways]

Hard to tell from just that description but it could be that you aren't used to the reduced mass of the lwfw.

thats the way it sounds to me too but tough to tell from the description.

A lightweight flywheel will require more throttle input or clutch management to keep the engine from stalling while starting from a stop. Its the tradeoff from having less rotational mass.

[giovanniv]

So the shudder is normal? The only thing that worried me was that it does not shudder when i pump the clutch 5+ times to build pressure.

[getslideways]

So the shudder is normal? The only thing that worried me was that it does not shudder when i pump the clutch 5+ times to build pressure.

the shudder is often referred to at "chatter", at least as far as I can tell based on my interpretation of your description.

also, when pumping the clutch its not that you are building pressure, but that you are getting all the components rotating at similar speed which may be why you are seeing a difference. You are essentially double clutching, getting everything in synch prior to engageing. At least that is my best guess.

[julex]

So you got feramic/ceramic clutch with rigid 12lb flywheel and are wondering why the engagement is so jerky? Good news it will get better once high spots grind down but you will always have a degree of shudder and finicky start from stop due to very low flywheel mass and lack of dampening that rotating mass provides with heavier flywheels (TTV for example).

I also hope you don't end up like me: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...comes-apart%29

[rani_aridi]

I also hope you don't end up like me: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...comes-apart%29

I remembered this thread a few days ago and began to wonder about the 034 fw. I believe their tone ring is bolted on, which should eliminate the issue, right?

[Renarl]

Takes some practice and getting used to. It's the LWFW causing this but you also must understand that you should not slip the hell out of your clutch dropping from higher RPM to compensate.

[slowrideBC]

Did u break the clutch in? How many clicks do u have on it so far?

[julex]

I remembered this thread a few days ago and began to wonder about the 034 fw. I believe their tone ring is bolted on, which should eliminate the issue, right?

All aluminum FWs have their rings bolted on since ring has to be steel and you cannot weld the two metals reliably.

[Corradovolksb]

I agree with everyone above but I would bleed your clutch Slave just to make sure you don't have any air bubbles trapped in the system it could lessen the chatter you are experiencing but it's also normal normal for the setup you are running.

[rani_aridi]

All aluminum FWs have their rings bolted on since ring has to be steel and you cannot weld the two metals reliably.

Yes, but isn't the issue only with riveted tone rings? Correct me if I'm wrong

[Scotty@Advanced]

Clutches have a break in period. Report back in 1000-1500 miles.

[zillarob]

That type of pp gives a lighter pedal than even stock. Magic lever stuff going on in there so that is normal.
The part I dont like about them is they dont have any feel to them, just a straight linear push instead of the breakover feel of the oem types.
This can make it even harder to engage because the pedal doesnt tell you when you are getting close to the engagement point.

I regularly drive 2 cars with that exact same clutch/fw, they are actually very nice driving clutches when you figure out what they want.
The trick is to not slip it and get it hot- will get grabby as hell if you do this.
I usually give the throttle a little blip (not much 1000-1200rpm), and engage the clutch as the rpms are falling.
Try to time it so you dont have to give it any throttle until the clutch is fully engaged.