2006 A4 Front upper/lower control arm replacement

**Seanyjonny** · 12-07-2015 11:00 PM

I need to do a replacement of the upper and lower front control arms and i found a complete set online for a very decent price. They are not OEM parts, heres a link. Was wondering if I should go with these?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...hvIaApVN8P8HAQ

**vce1232000** · 12-07-2015 11:03 PM

Alot of

members use this kit without any issue's

. Also cant beat the lifetime warranty on the parts as long as you own the car

**Seanyjonny** · 12-08-2015 08:25 AM

Cool! Thanks!

**miA4** · 12-08-2015 09:24 AM

I have the upper control arms on my car for a few months now. no issues to complain of. the price was what got me and the warranty.

**Denio24** · 12-08-2015 10:58 AM

Is it necessary to tighten the upper control arms to torque at curb weight position?

**wding2000** · 12-08-2015 11:11 AM

Originally Posted by Denio24

Is it necessary to tighten the upper control arms to torque at curb weight position?

Absolutely, otherwise, bushings are under constant stress and will tear prematurely.

**Charles.waite** · 12-08-2015 01:34 PM

Originally Posted by Denio24

Is it necessary to tighten the upper control arms to torque at curb weight position?

Yes. Only the frame side though. The ball joints don't really matter the angle, but the bushings need to be torqued at ride height or else they'll tear and be destroyed pretty quickly.

**Denio24** · 12-08-2015 05:19 PM

Originally Posted by Charles.waite

Yes. Only the frame side though. The ball joints don't really matter the angle, but the bushings need to be torqued at ride height or else they'll tear and be destroyed pretty quickly.

Is it easy to torque it with the vehicle lowered & wheels on?

**Charles.waite** · 12-08-2015 05:25 PM

Nearly impossible.

What I would do is Place jack stands under each hub (make sure they're very secure and won't slip off!!!) and lower the car into them. Then tighten the inner control arm bolts. That's the easiest way to do it without a lift.

**Denio24** · 12-08-2015 05:42 PM

I was 100% sure you had to tighten at curb weight, until i saw this: LINK. This guy has it all wrong! Using chisels to separate aluminum steering knuckles, and not tightening rubber bushings at curb weight.

**i96wh33lman** · 12-08-2015 06:29 PM

I recommend buying the lemforder or TRW arms(OEM) from fcp, but not the fcp brand arms or 034 arms as the quality is just shit. What separates the arms the most is the quality of ball joint being used in them. Bushings are so cheap even to buy the oem ones.

I've tried the "cheaper" brand control arm kits and they just don't hold up for long on Michigan roads. When the factory arms lasted 150K it really pisses me off that my 034 arms didn't even last 50k (and yes they were installed correctly)

I've come to the conclusion that oem always lasts longer than after market for most parts.

**mfdk** · 12-08-2015 07:06 PM

Originally Posted by Seanyjonny

I need to do a replacement of the upper and lower front control arms and i found a complete set online for a very decent price. They are not OEM parts, heres a link. Was wondering if I should go with these?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...hvIaApVN8P8HAQ

I bought the same kit, a week a go and i just finished installing them today, haven't had enough time to torque them. I left all the control arms, sway bar end links loose and I'm going to use ramps so i can roll the car up on them and finish the torque.

**mfdk** · 12-08-2015 07:09 PM

Originally Posted by i96wh33lman

I recommend buying the lemforder or TRW arms(OEM) from fcp, but not the fcp brand arms or 034 arms as the quality is just shit. What separates the arms the most is the quality of ball joint being used in them. Bushings are so cheap even to buy the oem ones.

I've tried the "cheaper" brand control arm kits and they just don't hold up for long on Michigan roads. When the factory arms lasted 150K it really pisses me off that my 034 arms didn't even last 50k (and yes they were installed correctly)

I've come to the conclusion that oem always lasts longer than after market for most parts.

As far as quality i cannot say much i'll just have to wait and see but i did run into an issue with the bolts for sway bar end links, the ones supplied by fcp are much longer then oem and i ended up using the old one with a new nuts.

**aluthman** · 12-08-2015 07:23 PM

Originally Posted by Charles.waite

Nearly impossible.

What I would do is Place jack stands under each hub (make sure they're very secure and won't slip off!!!) and lower the car into them. Then tighten the inner control arm bolts. That's the easiest way to do it without a lift.

I disagree. The easiest way to do it is to put a jack under the hub while the car is in the air and lift it until the suspension is compressed to the right level. Just measure the distance from the hub center to the fender when the car is on the ground. The hub is much more secure on a rubber floor jack pad than trying to lower it on a jack stand.

**ryanhmusic** · 12-08-2015 08:26 PM

Originally Posted by aluthman

I disagree. The easiest way to do it is to put a jack under the hub while the car is in the air and lift it until the suspension is compressed to the right level. Just measure the distance from the hub center to the fender when the car is on the ground. The hub is much more secure on a rubber floor jack pad than trying to lower it on a jack stand.

this is how I did it

nice to have an assistant for this part...or basically for all mechanical adventures

**mlavelle92** · 12-08-2015 10:55 PM

I think I need to replace my lowers pretty soon. I have the 034 adjustable uppers but I'm starting to notice a popping sound, sort of like a knuckle joint type thing. Happens when I turn the wheel while the car is 0 mph (during 3 point turn or something). Its a metal on metal bumping noise. Gotta be the lowers right?

**AJacksA4** · 12-08-2015 11:36 PM

Originally Posted by mlavelle92

I think I need to replace my lowers pretty soon. I have the 034 adjustable uppers but I'm starting to notice a popping sound, sort of like a knuckle joint type thing. Happens when I turn the wheel while the car is 0 mph (during 3 point turn or something). Its a metal on metal bumping noise. Gotta be the lowers right?

I had the same noise when I had my 034 adj arms. I sold them and got the density line uppers and haven't heard the sound since.

**Seanyjonny** · 12-09-2015 09:48 AM

So im taking them to the Euro shop to get them switched out, is $422 good price for labor on this? Switching all upper/lower.

**mlavelle92** · 12-09-2015 10:19 PM

Originally Posted by Seanyjonny

So im taking them to the Euro shop to get them switched out, is $422 good price for labor on this? Switching all upper/lower.

I feel like it should be 1.5 hours per side. so about 330

**mfdk** · 12-09-2015 10:35 PM

Originally Posted by Seanyjonny

So im taking them to the Euro shop to get them switched out, is $422 good price for labor on this? Switching all upper/lower.

I just did a complete replacement of front suspension and i must say the Pinch Bolt is your god damn nightmare, if it wasn't for the pinch bolt taking 90% of my time i would definitely be able to do it less than 2hrs per side.