Coilpack connector housing...lower cost option?

[linust]

VAG is mighty proud of the coilpack connector on our cars...

For the B6 1.8t, p/n 4B0973724 lists for $22.60 at ECS
But for the B8 2.0t, p/n 8K0973724 lists for just $4.60 each!

Has anyone used the later connector housing on the B6?

[Charles.waite]

Damn!. I bet those would work too since the main difference I can see is on the latch mechanism. Ans since we all know out coil packs are interchangeable I see no reason why these coil connectors wouldn't work. Very interesting find.

[walky_talky20]

Wait, wait, wait.

Audi needlessly redesigned something, and is selling it CHEAPER? What is going on?

[Charles.waite]

Its the end of Days! Everyone to the vaults!

[walky_talky20]

It almost seems like they have developed and priced a part to our benefit.

IT'S A TRAP!

There's probably a chip inside that makes the coil packs burn out *even faster*.

[mauromj]

Or you could just buy 4 for $12.

Watch out purists. I just went there with the eBay listing...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Audi-VW-Ig...hT5dqk&vxp=mtr

[G-Ride]

Do you have to re-pin them? What's the process for swapping out the plug. I bought some of these a few years back with the boots and never got around to swapping them out. Same with the N75, headlights etc.

[diuvic]

Or you could just buy 4 for $12.

Watch out purists. I just went there with the eBay listing...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Audi-VW-Ig...hT5dqk&vxp=mtr

Has anybody used the ebay ones? I have thought about re-pinning mine since they look worse for wear. Or, has anyone used the cheaper $4 OEM ones?

[19jdog]

Or you could just buy 4 for $12.

Watch out purists. I just went there with the eBay listing...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Audi-VW-Ig...hT5dqk&vxp=mtr

This is what I used. I bought them from that seller. I had to solder them in since there isn't a replacement harness for the 3.0.

[diuvic]

This is what I used. I bought them from that seller. I had to solder them in since there isn't a replacement harness for the 3.0.

So how are they holding up so far? I would rather try and re-pin the connectors don't you think? Well, it may not be cost effective or something. I have no problem soldering but would rather not to be honest. Idk.

Did you take advantage of having the connectors off to sleeve the cables with some heat resistant material or something?


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[PreciseD]

I used the Ebay ones and they are great. Butt connected them on and shrink wrapped everything.

[19jdog]

So how are they holding up so far? I would rather try and re-pin the connectors don't you think? Well, it may not be cost effective or something. I have no problem soldering but would rather not to be honest. Idk.

Did you take advantage of having the connectors off to sleeve the cables with some heat resistant material or something?


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So far its all good cut, splice, solder & heat shrink.

[PreciseD]

So far its all good cut, splice, solder & heat shrink.

Don't solder them.

[mauromj]

I have soldered many wiring harnesses in the past an have had no problems in doing so. Use quality solder (Kester 60/40 is the best imo), and you will never have an issue for the remainder of your cars life.

This is coming from an electrical engineer.

Putting my flame suit on to take heat from everything saying, "Well VW says its bad, so don't do it."

[lyates1987]

Soldered my injector harness when it started cracking and splitting. Works great, no issues

[SJorge3442]

The reason he says not to solder them is because Audi says we shouldn't. If you're gonna solder, just disconnect the ECU and you should be good. But to be fair, a properly crimped butt connector is gonna be just as good at the end of the day.

[PreciseD]

Soldering changes the resistance of a wire (enough to harm something? doubt it, but it doesn't help). That is why you shouldn't do it. As an Electrical Engineer you should know that. We do not solder any wires for IJBs or bus boxes for our control systems of chemical plants. It's not recommended by any of our Electrical Engineers.

[diuvic]

I used the Ebay ones and they are great. Butt connected them on and shrink wrapped everything.

That is a super clean install! You just convinced me to go for it. What is that black wrap that you used? I'm assuming it's heat resistant? Not the heat shrink, that other stuff.


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[19jdog]

Don't solder them.

My 3.0 harness to my coil packs has been heat cycled a gazillion times. On the 3.0 you cant just replace a harness. If you do you are doing it all the way back to the ecu. There is no way I'm doing that!! So I soldered them in. Butt connectors is easy work though.. maybe next time

[Charles.waite]

That is a super clean install! You just convinced me to go for it. What is that black wrap that you used? I'm assuming it's heat resistant? Not the heat shrink, that other stuff.


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Looks like the factory cloth harness wrap.

If it were me, I would put something a bit more heat resistant on it.

Also, preciseD, any reason you moved the ground straps to the pcv hose bracket as opposed to the factory valve cover bolt location?

[diuvic]

Looks like the factory cloth harness wrap.

If it were me, I would put something a bit more heat resistant on it.

Also, preciseD, any reason you moved the ground straps to the pcv hose bracket as opposed to the factory valve cover bolt location?

I know they sell wrap for exhausts but that might be a bit of overkill though right? Any wrap that you guys recommend?


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[chad99]

From what I have read about resistance changes from soldering in the past, its very minimal and only critical for uber sensitive signals and somewhere on the order of much less than a milliohm.

Compared to crimp connectors that are subjected to heat cycling and moisture in the engine bay, soldering is most likely the better option. I would also never solder solid wire, only stranded and only non rigid.

The biggest problem I see with crimp connectors is where people use too large of a crimp connector for a small gauge wire; and the biggest problem with soldering is when people don't know how and cold solder.
I have done both at one point in my life.

[Charles.waite]

Crimp connectors are WAY easier to get a good connection with than soldering. At least for a noob.

[Matt Devo]

From what I have read about resistance changes from soldering in the past, its very minimal and only critical for uber sensitive signals and somewhere on the order of much less than a milliohm.

Compared to crimp connectors that are subjected to heat cycling and moisture in the engine bay, soldering is most likely the better option. I would also never solder solid wire, only stranded and only non rigid.

The biggest problem I see with crimp connectors is where people use too large of a crimp connector for a small gauge wire; and the biggest problem with soldering is when people don't know how and cold solder.
I have done both at one point in my life.

the whole reason for not soldering in automotive applications is due to the solder joint potentially cracking and failing from constant vibration. The potential for change in resistance of the wire is far secondary to that.

[chad99]

The above was in reference to the "resistance changes with soldering" concerns that were mentioned above my post

I can see the issue with solder cracking from a lot of vibration, but I have never seen this happen with a GOOD solder joint, and it seems the vibration would have to be concentrated on the solder joint like if a zip tie was on the solder joint as a strain relief.
If someone is not good with soldering, by all means use a crimp connector, its more fool proof.

[mauromj]

Soldering changes the resistance of a wire (enough to harm something? doubt it, but it doesn't help). That is why you shouldn't do it. As an Electrical Engineer you should know that. We do not solder any wires for IJBs or bus boxes for our control systems of chemical plants. It's not recommended by any of our Electrical Engineers.

Yes, and I also know that a resistance change of a few mOhm can be neglected in the case of these higher voltage signals. (Im a microelectronics guy so by high voltage, I mean anything more than 3v3 lol).

IMO, all sensors, and other "control system" stuff on these cars will not be affected by something of this magnitude. I only say this because my intuition tells me so, and because I have never had a problem with doing so myself.

In many cases, you can add more series resistance when crimping wires (if you do not really know what you are doing).

At the end of the day, I would say do what you are more comfortable with. I prefer soldering because it is cleaner, and I am good at it. If you are not a good solderer, crimp it.

I am in the process of making my 2.7t harness for my b6, and it will all be soldered. I hate the bulkiness from crimps. FWIW.

[mauromj]

Lots of conflicting info...
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t108...nnections.html

Anyways, this thread got off track. If you buy new connector housings, just remove the pin leads from your old housing and install them in the new housing like Spike said.

[mauromj]

JK. IDK. I used NSPA Krimpa-Seal so far (w/o solder) since it seems the FAA, Boeing, NASA, Milspec, etc. all told me to.
At least with both, the crimp acts as a strain relief, and protector? Not sure if that's enough to withstand vibration though.



Same thing for headlight connectors.
Which broke (mine) after 2 uses...Namely the tab you depress to unlock/hook it. It seemed to lose its form, stayed loose, and no longer latched. Connector could undo any time, losing headlight function.
Switched back to original-style..
User error? Bad batch? Undesirable design? IDK.

Have you found replacement headlight connectors? Mine are broke as well..

[diuvic]

I didn't mean to cause such a storm with my questions but it has been entertaining. So who won out again? Jk :)

I'll try to remove the pin leads but I'm pretty sure some of those wires are damaged because I can see the plastic shielding or boot that they have when I'm not supposed to. We'll see.

I think the most important question is the shielding of the cables. I have bare ones for some reason and think that I should wrap them in something vs buying the red plastic that goes over them for both sides at $30 a side.


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[PreciseD]

That is a super clean install! You just convinced me to go for it. What is that black wrap that you used? I'm assuming it's heat resistant? Not the heat shrink, that other stuff.


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It's automotive cloth tape. I got it from ebay.

[OlivierA4]

OEM makers include Tesa and Coroplast, w/ various model tapes. Specs listed online, made to accommodate various needs: abrasion-resistance, etc.
Sold for more in Audi, Mercedes dealerships etc.,
I got Tesa 51608 (IIRC) off eBay for wrapping some interior stuff, for OEM look.
It strongly bonds to itself.

do you have a link to these wrapper?