tips for RMS install

[das4]

getting ready to throw new rear main seal on B5 S4 tonight. I've read quite a bit of what's out there and some of the info is conflicting. i guess the main question: do I need to put gasket maker on the paper elring piece that goes under the metal flange? across both front and back surfaces on it? some info online says yes, some says no..

outside of that, any other tips? I don't want to have issues after getting it all back together

[erykv1]

there are a few schools of thought / opinions / methods and I think they all seem to have worked

1) install dry, no gasket maker / sealant
2) light amount of gasket market / sealant on both sides
3) just sealant, no gasket (must be methodical with application)

the main thing to look out for is to not have the rubber ring fold up on itself when installing.

[jturnbull]

It's relatively simple compared to what you read on here. Just make sure the mating surface is good and clean. I only used sealant on the bottom where it meets the oil pan, the paper gasket will seal just fine provided you get the surface nice and clean.

Like stated above just make sure you have the rubber seal facing out, take your time and slowly work it around the crank, a good clean surface helps as well. Can also use a dab of oil to promote a good seal, just like when installing an oil filter.

[das4]

okay cool.. just to be sure, that inner rubber/silicone type inner ring that actually contact with the crank is supposed to be unseen when installed correctly, right?

[zillarob]

Correct.

Best install tool I have found:

[das4]

lol looks good to me

[das4]

thanks for the tips guys. got the new RMS on without issue. lightly oiled the crankshaft. lined up the RMS with the installed tool and it slipped on with relative ease. the seal is seated perfectly. I did put a little gasket maker on the outer portion of the paper working seal. figured it couldn't hurt. my lower gasket maker line for the RMS flange bottom is ugly, but install was simple

[96PearlyWhite]

Did you use the cup trick? I have to do mine this weekend while I am replacing the clutch. The hardware is reusable right?

[das4]

Did you use the cup trick? I have to do mine this weekend while I am replacing the clutch. The hardware is reusable right?

I didn't use the cup trick, the part I bought had a tool preinstalled. the cup trick looks like it would work damn well. the tips they both gave worked really well for me. lightly oiled the crank it slides onto helped a TON. I went very slowly while pushing it on and made sure it was going on completely straight. people made it sound like the bubonic plague and to stay away from doing it. I didn't think it was that bad. a little intimidating because of the reprecautions of doing it wrong, but just take your time.

the metal flange around the felt/rubber seal come as a pair. there's also a paper gasket behind it. clean up the block mating surface really well. I used a razor blade to scrape off at first and then lightly rubbed fine steel wool on the surface. it cleaned up well.

[slow ride]

I know you have it done, but for the rest of the people reading this you do NOT oil the inner seal lip if it's a teflon seal like the OE seal is. You only oil a rubber lip type seal Teflon seals are made to be installed dry.

[96PearlyWhite]

awesome thank you for the reply!!

[das4]

I know you have it done, but for the rest of the people reading this you do NOT oil the inner seal lip if it's a teflon seal like the OE seal is. You only oil a rubber lip type seal Teflon seals are made to be installed dry.

what would be the drawback of lightly applying oil to the crank?

[slow ride]

What brand seal did you purchase anyway? Did you notice if it has a hard stiff lip seal with no spring (Teflon) or soft rubber lip with backing spring?

Read up on sealing methods or Teflon/PTFE seals. I often thought the same as you, but it has to do with the Teflon on the seal transferring a layer to the metal shaft promoting a positive long lasting seal surface between the two. By having oil on the lip it will hinder that transfer layer is my understanding. Most newer cars use Teflon seals for front and rear mains, etc. and you will notice that in the service manuals they will call out not oiling the seal. I've also installed an rubber lip seal on my S4's front crank snout that had a Teflon (factory) seal (just because I had it right?) and it leaked after less than a year, come to find out after research that sometimes this is common due to mixing the seal style or having Teflon residue on the shaft. I replace that seal again with a Teflon seal installed dry and it's been perfect ever since so I would recommend always using the same type of seal the factory did.

We also race a chumpcar that runs a ford 2.3 and would have oil seal problems with the rear main. I ended up sourcing a Teflon seal for that application and it's working great in racing. I also install them dry for my LSX engines I build also as requested by GM. Lots of boring seal talk LOL

[julex]

damn seals, boring animals as they are.... walruses on the other hand...