R&R rear end?

[f4m0u5]

How much should it cost to remove the rear end and replace it with a used one?

I have had a clunk coming from the rear of car since I got it. And also a vibration from 60- 85mph I'm pretty sure it's the slop/backlash in the rear end or the drive shaft. I got a used drive shaft and rear end that has less back lash. I'm also going to replace the 2 cv joints on the used drive shaft and also center support bearing. While I'm at it I'm going to add the 034 rear carrier bushings to work with the ecs rear dif mount already installed.

[S4tech2]

If you were to come into my dealer labor would be around $800-$1000 depending on your area. Exhaust has to come off completely and depending on rust will also affect the price.

[f4m0u5]

Wow that's pricey! How many hours of labor are we talking? I was told It was only 3-4 hrs tops lol

[S4tech2]

Well at an average of $100 per hour that's 8-10. Just keep in mind that different places will charge differently accordingly as how comfortably they are with cars this old.

[Bordom]

I dropped and installed my rear end in about 10hrs. (Subframe and all connecting lines/bolts)

It's a lot of work and not something I'm looking forward to again

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[S4tech2]

I agree I have replaced a subframe on a b5 and even with a lift is was horrible. I was assuming he only meaning the rear diff and drive shaft. And also if you are supplying your own parts just understand that if the issue is not resolved or the parts installed are bad then it will be on you. Sometimes the $100 diagnostic fee to have someone with the correct tools to find the source of the issue is well worth the money.

[Bordom]

I agree I have replaced a subframe on a b5 and even with a lift is was horrible. I was assuming he only meaning the rear diff and drive shaft. And also if you are supplying your own parts just understand that if the issue is not resolved or the parts installed are bad then it will be on you. Sometimes the $100 diagnostic fee to have someone with the correct tools to find the source of the issue is well worth the money.

I would rather drop the rear diff and driveshaft multiple times than do a subframe again.

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[S4tech2]

I agree it was a large pain. I'm wrapping up doing turbos and a trans on my car and it has been the biggest pain in the ass.

[f4m0u5]

Ya I'm only,talking about rear different and driveshaft lol

[S4tech2]

In all honesty you could probably do this your self if you have the correct equipment and tools. A good way to break loose the axle and driveshaft bolts is to have an extra person lock and in lock the e brake starting with the rear axles. I don't know your level of experience you have but it is possible but may be aggravating laying on the ground doing this.

[landfill]

^^^ I've even broken them loose with just the impact
gun or have someone hold the wheel while you brake them
loose with a ratchet. It's not bad at all. I've had the rear diff
out in under 2 hours. Also instead of spending all that time
& money on cv's & parts for your stock driveshaft you could
have already bought a 1 piece from scotty for $500. On the
diff your swapping in pop open the case and inspect the ring
& pinnion teeth and spider gears for damage/wear or any obvious
metal shavings. Check your seals as well. Also only use Fuchs
or OEM fluid.

[Bordom]

^^^ I've even broken them loose with just the impact
gun or have someone hold the wheel while you brake them
loose with a ratchet. It's not bad at all. I've had the rear diff
out in under 2 hours. Also instead of spending all that time
& money on cv's & parts for your stock driveshaft you could
have already bought a 1 piece from scotty for $500. On the
diff your swapping in pop open the case and inspect the ring
& pinnion teeth and spider gears for damage/wear or any obvious
metal shavings. Check your seals as well. Also only use Fuchs
or OEM fluid.

I bought a one piece from scotty, it was a mess at driving fwy speed. Sold it for $500 (CAD) to a guy and turns out it needed to be rebalanced.

I was not going to pay $200 to ship it back to him to sort out. But anyways, that was on my A4, not my S4

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[MacDaddy]

Before you toss on a bunch of used parts of unknown condition on your car in the hopes of it solving your issue for upwards of $1000, I would have some diagnostic work done, I'm willing to bet it's the forward rear diff mount and a rear tire out of balance. Unbalanced tires vibrate at a certain speed and then go away, and driveshafts don't go out of balance.

[f4m0u5]

Thanks for help. I should have mentioned I got the drive shaft for cheap and to rebuild it with new joints and center bearing will be a total of $300.

Also I did have it diagnosed (but not by an audi specialist) and replaced a billion parts between. I already have upgraded front mount on my rear end.

Also I've tried 2 brand new sets of wheels and tires. One were high-speed blanaced. The next set I just threw on a few months ago are also brand new with brand new tires and road force balance.(the first thing I thought was bent rim or a bad tire when I bought car)

I already replaced a rear wheel bearing also and have upgraded motor/transmission/snub mount and meyle hd controlled arms

My current rear end has the more expensive motul gear fluid in it that was changed out less then a year ago. Is that fluid not good for our cars? I was recommended it by a local vag shop

[landfill]

You can always open up your diff even with it still attached
to car. Take a look at the teeth on all of your gear and check
for play at the front & back of the pinion. Also check backlash.
The diagnostics revolving around the rear end aren't very difficult
compared to other things. Also something to consider are any
mounts or bushings you haven't replaced (subframe mounts,
diff carrier bushings, drive shaft center bearing, driveshaft cv's,
the rear diff mount) All will cause noises, thumps, and vibrations)
but imo it should be easy to rule out the rear end. Pop off the passenger
side cover.

[MacDaddy]

Thanks for help. I should have mentioned I got the drive shaft for cheap and to rebuild it with new joints and center bearing will be a total of $300.

Also I did have it diagnosed (but not by an audi specialist) and replaced a billion parts between. I already have upgraded front mount on my rear end.

Also I've tried 2 brand new sets of wheels and tires. One were high-speed blanaced. The next set I just threw on a few months ago are also brand new with brand new tires and road force balance.(the first thing I thought was bent rim or a bad tire when I bought car)

I already replaced a rear wheel bearing also and have upgraded motor/transmission/snub mount and meyle hd controlled arms

My current rear end has the more expensive motul gear fluid in it that was changed out less then a year ago. Is that fluid not good for our cars? I was recommended it by a local vag shop

ZF diffs aren't really known to fail and if it was causing the clunk there would probably be very audible noises, if you drop the exhaust and remove the heat shield it's easy to see if the u joint is bad, I may go that route and if it is have your driveshaft rebuilt if you can afford not having the car and the shop is willing to let you leave it there.

Will also save you labour costs as the shop has to do that work anyway to re and re the driveshaft, the only thing your paying extra for is a quick check of the driveshaft. If a shop tries to fleece you for inspecting and then full price for re and re then it's a good sign to find someone else to do the work.

[f4m0u5]

Thanks guys! I'm going to replace the dif carrier bushings and subframe bushings while I'm at it(already did differential mount, and orderd driveshaft cv's/center support bearing)

When I spin the drive shaft there's about 1/2 to 3/4 rotation of backlash before you feel it engage the rear tires and make a Clunk noise.