Wastegate Adjustment Under Hood?

[S-lime]

Can I adjust my waste gate under the hood or do I need to remove the turbo? My car peaks to 12lbs then makes it way back to 6lbs while accelerating. Also makes a rattling under the hood. I am suspecting a loose waste gate.

[B5A4coastie]

I dare say most wastegates can be adjusted on the car, but I don't know what car or set up you have so more information would be helpful.

[Seerlah]

I have done this before, so it def can be done. It is a major PITA, though.

[AutoMax]

You don't have to take out the turbo, but unbolting the downpipe, manifold and removing the intake box gives you much more room to work with.

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[walky_talky20]

I don't take out the manifold. I just drop the downpipe to do it. Works a treat. I wrote up a list of steps I used to do it:

So I had to replace my turbo>downpipe gasket today. "While I was in there" I decided I would "cowboy up" and check/adjust my wastegate as well. I successfully adjusted my wastegate to 5psi crack pressure *without removing the exhaust manifold*. The procedure was as follows:

- cowboy up
- remove 3 nuts holding downpipe to the turbo
- unbolt downpipe mounting bolt to transmission
- push downpipe off the turbo and down a bit to create some room
- loosen pinch clamp slightly and pull pressure hose off the wastegate actuator
- connect metered pressure supply to the actuator
- determine the current crack pressure (when you are able to spin the flapper)
- pressure up to FULLY EXTEND the actuator rod
- remove the adjustment nut clip (mine did not have this)
- Use a 10mm deepwell socket (1/4" drive), extension, and ratchet to loosen and remove the end nut from the rod.
- spin the other nut up the shaft with your fingers (mine wouldn't move by hand, so I had to do these next 3 steps)
- hold the flapper open and remove all pressure from the actuator
- slip the rod on top of the flapper lever, pressure it up again (fully extend)
- Use the socket/ratchet to tighten the inboard nut and move it up the shaft a few turns
- remove pressure, slip the rod back into the lever arm hole, pressure up again, install end nut snug (but not tight)
- test new cracking pressure (repeat above steps again if it isn't right)
- Use socket/ratchet to fully tighten the end nut and install the clip
- reconnect the pressure line to the wastegate actuator, pinch using long side cutters
- put your downpipe back on
- cowboy down (?)
- done

I adjusted mine to crack at 5 psi. It was previously adjusted to about 3 psi. It took maybe 2 or 3 turns of the nut.