Rear alignment totalled boned

[Sidewayzracer]

98 A4 Quattro and multiple shops cant seem to get the rear aligned. Specifically the drivers rear side. Current specs on the rear -1.9 degree camber and -2.33 toe left side. Right side -.08 camber and .67 toe

Thrust angle is showing as -1.5 degree. Is my rear end totally shit at this point?

[miA4]

98 A4 Quattro and multiple shops cant seem to get the rear aligned. Specifically the drivers rear side. Current specs on the rear -1.9 degree camber and -2.33 toe left side. Right side -.08 camber and .67 toe

Thrust angle is showing as -1.5 degree. Is my rear end totally shit at this point?

did you hit a curb or a really big pothole at some point? I had a similar issue on my prelude and you could see the bend on the control arm. it was a small bend, but it made my car jerk to the right on a bump or puddle.

[Sidewayzracer]

Nope though i have a feeling the PO had as the first set of tires on it wore out quickly, the car hasnt been driven much since ive bought it 2 years ago.

The shop said they didnt see a bend in any of the arms and might think the mounting points for the arm

[Turbo_B5]

Probably a bent upright/spindle.


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[redline380]

Shifted subframe is my guess

[seanf86]

I'm with redline on the shifted subframe, could possibly be bent, wonder if the eccentrics are seized and shop just says they can't get the specs cause they're too lazy to try

[Turbo_B5]

Shifted subframe is my guess

But the other side is almost in spec. Wouldn't a shifted frame make both sides wack?

Op is there more adjustability on the right side tow essetric bolt?

Somthing has to be wrong though with the left side so out of spec.

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[Sidewayzracer]

Right side eccentric was snapped and welded and has been replaced

[walky_talky20]

I don't think the other side is almost in spec. There is not enough camber and way too much toe in.

Due to the lower control arm AND tie rods both mounting to the subframe, all of the symptoms point to the subframe being shifted significantly in one direction.There certainly could be something bent, so definitely inspect closely - but I would try shifting the subframe to see how much can be corrected.

Worse come to worst (chassis is bent), you can do some quick and dirty fixes to get things within reason. Things like hogging out the subframe mounting holes to get more movement, spacers between the shock mount brackets and body, adjustable-length rear tie rods for increased adjustment range.

[Turbo_B5]

I don't think the other side is almost in spec. There is not enough camber and way too much toe in.

Due to the lower control arm AND tie rods both mounting to the subframe, all of the symptoms point to the subframe being shifted significantly in one direction.There certainly could be something bent, so definitely inspect closely - but I would try shifting the subframe to see how much can be corrected.

Worse come to worst (chassis is bent), you can do some quick and dirty fixes to get things within reason. Things like hogging out the subframe mounting holes to get more movement, spacers between the shock mount brackets and body, adjustable-length rear tie rods for increased adjustment range.

I have a set of 034 forsale.

[Sidewayzracer]

I don't think the other side is almost in spec. There is not enough camber and way too much toe in.

Due to the lower control arm AND tie rods both mounting to the subframe, all of the symptoms point to the subframe being shifted significantly in one direction.There certainly could be something bent, so definitely inspect closely - but I would try shifting the subframe to see how much can be corrected.

Worse come to worst (chassis is bent), you can do some quick and dirty fixes to get things within reason. Things like hogging out the subframe mounting holes to get more movement, spacers between the shock mount brackets and body, adjustable-length rear tie rods for increased adjustment range.

Looking into getting some quotes for the straightening, was very close to parting out the car if i cant get the rear unfucked up

[seanf86]

Looking into getting some quotes for the straightening, was very close to parting out the car if i cant get the rear unfucked up

its stupid easy to do yourself, there are 4 bolts holding the rear subframe in, loosen all 4, slide subframe in direction you want and tighten 4 bolts back up (replace the bolts if you're a keener)

[walky_talky20]

^I just learned a new Canadian slang term.

keener - Canadian [informal]: a person who is who is extremely eager, zealous, or enthusiastic.
"keeners who spent most of high school buried in homework"

Sounds about right.

[Turbo_B5]

^I just learned a new Canadian slang term.

keener - Canadian [informal]: a person who is who is extremely eager, zealous, or enthusiastic.
"keeners who spent most of high school buried in homework"

Sounds about right.

never herd of it before.

[seanf86]

never herd of it before.

Must be a Winnipeg thing haha

[Bordom]

^I just learned a new Canadian slang term.

keener - Canadian [informal]: a person who is who is extremely eager, zealous, or enthusiastic.
"keeners who spent most of high school buried in homework"

Sounds about right.

never herd of it before.

Must be a Winnipeg thing haha

It's kind of a big deal in the Canadian army lol

Everything graciously mispelled by Android

[Mad Cow]

Must be a Winnipeg thing haha

I hear/use that word at least a few times a week. Get on the bandwagon, it's pretty awesome.

[vrmm]

I hit a curb going up a hill at 60mph at a 45° angle and did not have a subframe alignment issues afterward. I changed the knuckle(and other required stuff) but till this day I regret spending the 120$ for it. I think it would have been fine.

I personally wouldn't start with the knuckle/horn. Not that anyone is suggesting to.. The lower control arm being bent would make you have positive toe(unless it 'stretched' somehow). If it was me I'd get adjustable control arms. Maybe Mike hood could find someone to sell you just one?... Mayyybe..

Although messing with the subframe may solve the issue, you're going to have no clue if what you're doing is helping, so you may have to do it 45 times and take it to an alignment shop after each time. It'll make the other side be out of spec, so you'd be trying to move it enough that the good side could be adjusted to fix the problematic side(if problematic side is already adjusted to the max). Idk just seems like you're taking something that's 50% okay and possibly making it be 0%.

There's some post where I described doing an alignment that is tire specific. It's really easy so if you do go that route you could save some ¢¢. And just get a 'real' alignment once. Could you possibly take a picture with how your off center bolts are at the horn/knuckle/spindle and also on the subframe for curiosities sake?