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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    How to lift the front end of the B8 S4?

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    I vaguely remember a previous thread about this topic but could not find it via search, so I apologize if this is redundant.
    What method(s) are you guys using to lift the front wheels of your S4 off the ground at home, assuming you do not have a lift for the entire car? For a while I have been using the scissor jack that came with the car, i.e. using it only to lift a corner of the car and then sliding a jackstand next to it and lowering onto the jackstand to support the weight, then repeat for the other side. I realize that the scissor jack is a bad idea, specifically because mine failed yesterday while I was using it, but I am not sure how else to go about lifting the front end.

    Here is the problem - if I use my hydraulic floor jack to lift at the front pinch weld rail area, there is no room to slide a jack stand in next to it. Is there another acceptable location for either the jack or jack stand at the front corners?

    Also - is there such a thing as a "reliable" scissor jack? i.e. one that is meant for heavy duty repeated use, and not the flimsy limited use type that comes with the car?
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings Li ls4's Avatar
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    Same question here. I have been just leaving my jack there and adding the jack stand next to it where the plastic is over the pinch weld just in case the jack fails. Doesnt really help if you have to lift the other side of the car up as well though.

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
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    use hydro jack under the B pillar (using some wood if possible). The pinch weld extends the length of the side of the car. You'll find you are jacking on the felt cover, but that's ok. This way, you lift up one entire side of the car and can slide jack stands underneath both jack points.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings The Fat Kid's Avatar
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    Are you thinking of people who use the control arms as a jack point? I am pretty sure pictures are floating around somewhere here.

    This is the spendy option: http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings hotleadsingergu's Avatar
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    Don't go with scissor jacks. Get a good floor hydraulic and you'll be good forever. The mount points are big enough to do both, but you just have to place them correctly. Get a puck/lift rubber for the top of the lift so you don't crush the point, then you should be good.

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings fillyo's Avatar
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    I use my floor jack and bought this, it's basically the same as the protech pad but cheaper, fits perfectly:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Volkswage...FUfkAk&vxp=mtr
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fillyo View Post
    I use my floor jack and bought this, it's basically the same as the protech pad but cheaper, fits perfectly:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Volkswage...FUfkAk&vxp=mtr
    Do you have enough room to get your jack stand in there next to the floor jack?
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings 968Reckless's Avatar
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    Either get a different jack that allows the stand to fit next to it.

    Get the jack stands that go around the Jack itself

    http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/#2703


    or get maxjax

    http://www.maxjaxusa.com

    Lots of options out there....


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  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveYem View Post
    Do you have enough room to get your jack stand in there next to the floor jack?
    If i put the hydraulic jack all the way on one side of the lift area, i have enough room to put my jack stand next to the hydraulic jack. Not sure if the size of the life areas has changed between B8 and B8.5, but i doubt it.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by boro92 View Post
    use hydro jack under the B pillar (using some wood if possible). The pinch weld extends the length of the side of the car. You'll find you are jacking on the felt cover, but that's ok. This way, you lift up one entire side of the car and can slide jack stands underneath both jack points.
    My understanding has always been that the rails were reinforced in the designated lifting areas (where the felt cover is cut away), and that lifting outside of those areas would cause damage to the rails.
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  11. #11
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    I drive up on homemade ramps and jack up from there using floor jack and hokey pucks.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings 14S4GWM's Avatar
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    I use a hydraulic floor jack and move it just far enough down the pinch weld even if its carpeted there so I can get my jack stand in there. Works like a charm every time.
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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings infinkc's Avatar
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    depending what i work on:

    If doing major work i use a Maxjax lift.
    If just removing the front bumper and no need to remove the tires, i use a floor jack on the jack points and set the front tires on rhino ramps.
    If i need to take a front wheel off i use the floor jack and place a jack stand under the subframe near the lower control arm.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by infinkc View Post
    depending what i work on:

    If doing major work i use a Maxjax lift.
    If just removing the front bumper and no need to remove the tires, i use a floor jack on the jack points and set the front tires on rhino ramps.
    If i need to take a front wheel off i use the floor jack and place a jack stand under the subframe near the lower control arm.
    Ah ok. Are you referring to the are just outboard of where the rear of the drivetrain stabilizer bolts into the subframe? Shown in the picture below (although there are two hex head bolts typically in those holes):
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  15. #15
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    DO NOT lift the car by putting a jack on a control arm. Subframe is OK

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings amz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveYem View Post
    Ah ok. Are you referring to the are just outboard of where the rear of the drivetrain stabilizer bolts into the subframe? Shown in the picture below (although there are two hex head bolts typically in those holes):
    This is also how I jack the car up, I use a $0.99 hockey puck to cushion things in there. Make sure you get the bolts and none of the arms or anything. When you go to lower the car, just gotta be a bit careful that you position the jack so that it doesn't get caught underneath the wheel as it comes down.
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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    What part failed on OP's scissor jack?

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings wwhan's Avatar
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    I use a hydraulic floor jack with this type of adapter, then use jack stands on the subframe next to where the lower control arm is attached; "Floor Jack Saddle Adapter for Rocker Panel Pinch Weld" http://www.amazon.com/Floor-Saddle-A.../dp/B0050K3P8Y I purchased it from Eastwood.

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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings AudiTFSI3o3's Avatar
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    in my experience I have never seen a good scissor jack. almost every time i have used it (3 times max in 10 years, with Audi and Lexus), especially on a flat, leveled surface, the scissor jack itself doesn't fail, but it's not "planted" on the ground and theres always some sort of play. there have been a few close calls but i've always stuck to my craftsman hydraulic floor jack

    and OP, i usually just use rhino ramps for the front end.
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  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings kr3w45's Avatar
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    If you are jacking up the front end, use ramps. Rhino ramps ^ are a great option. Otherwise any hydraulic floor jack with jack stands. You can use a padded floor jack on the front subframe and use stands on the pinch welds. A ramp is your best bet

    Do not jack the car up like the picture of the VW above. The 4 points of the pinch welds are reinforced and specifically meant to lift the car.
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings wwhan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kr3w45 View Post
    If you are jacking up the front end, use ramps. Rhino ramps ^ are a great option. Otherwise any hydraulic floor jack with jack stands. You can use a padded floor jack on the front subframe and use stands on the pinch welds. A ramp is your best bet....
    I use Rhino ramps when I can, but when you need to remove the wheels, the ramps don't really help.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by wwhan View Post
    I use Rhino ramps when I can, but when you need to remove the wheels, the ramps don't really help.
    Exactly, can't use ramps to take off wheels. I have a set of Rhino Ramps but unfortunately the front end of the car is too low for me to use them up front.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveYem View Post
    My understanding has always been that the rails were reinforced in the designated lifting areas (where the felt cover is cut away), and that lifting outside of those areas would cause damage to the rails.
    Agreed. This is why you use a longer piece of wood to distribute the load.
    Ideally, anyone jacking even from the designated jack points are doing this. Or you will eventually fold the pinch welds.
    If one is jacking from the jack point using a jack with a pad small enough to fit a stand beside it, then you will eventually harm the pinch weld over time. My 2c.
    Look at most used cars out there...you'll find flattened pinch welds from time to time :D

  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings kr3w45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boro92 View Post
    Agreed. This is why you use a longer piece of wood to distribute the load.
    Ideally, anyone jacking even from the designated jack points are doing this. Or you will eventually fold the pinch welds.
    If one is jacking from the jack point using a jack with a pad small enough to fit a stand beside it, then you will eventually harm the pinch weld over time. My 2c.
    Look at most used cars out there...you'll find flattened pinch welds from time to time :D
    Damaged pinch welds are a result of not properly lifting the vehicle. I've never seen folded pinch welds on an audi, but i've seen damaged rockers from a jack or lift going in the wrong place haha.

    if you need to take the front wheels off, either do one side at a time with the floor jack.. or find a structural point of the sub frame or unibody to jack and place the jack stands at both front wheels
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  25. #25
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    This whole topic made me lose to many hours of my life researching. Why the hell would they safely jacking a car

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    I can't find the edit button...

    But why would they make it so difficult?

    I ended up goin with the expansion JackPoints jack stands. And traded work for access to a lift for how ever long I need...

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by S4'ed View Post
    DO NOT lift the car by putting a jack on a control arm. Subframe is OK
    No true sometimes. You have to jack up the control arm to check ball joints. I always use the front control arms to jack the front up and put a jack stand on the pinch weld. I just jack where the control arm meets the subframe. Its perfectly fine to jack up on the front MAIN control arm.

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings amz's Avatar
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    I wouldn't use the widowmaker cars come with (aka the scissor jack) unless there was no other option.

    Here's a vid my rear dashcam captured of guys trying to use the widowmaker to put a spare on. Imagine if they had been under the car or had their fingers underneath anything...
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  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings blackfunk's Avatar
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    Wait did he really just lift the car? I need him to moonlight as my personal bouncer WTF homie..........
    Life has taught me never try to make something idiot proof, they'll simply come up with a better idiot.
    I'd agree with you but then we'd both be wrong.
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  30. #30
    Veteran Member Three Rings cjw's Avatar
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    So there is no central point I could just put a jack to lift the entire front end (both wheels?)

    I know in the rear on some cars, it's common to use the rear diff as a jacking point
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackfunk View Post
    Wait did he really just lift the car? I need him to moonlight as my personal bouncer WTF homie..........
    Yeah really. He lifted that corner of the car pretty darn easily it appears.
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjw View Post
    So there is no central point I could just put a jack to lift the entire front end (both wheels?)

    I know in the rear on some cars, it's common to use the rear diff as a jacking point
    Agreed on the rear, but no I do not believe there is a place to safely jack the entire front end.
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  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings amz's Avatar
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    If you have a sports diff I couldn't put a jack under it. The only "safe" spot I can think of would be the heatsinks (aka the fins) and I wouldn't want to put a couple of tonnes of weight on those little pieces of metal.
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  34. #34
    Established Member Two Rings kr3w45's Avatar
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    You could also jack the car up by the oil pan, they are pretty strong right?
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by amz View Post
    If you have a sports diff I couldn't put a jack under it. The only "safe" spot I can think of would be the heatsinks (aka the fins) and I wouldn't want to put a couple of tonnes of weight on those little pieces of metal.
    I have been successful jacking the rear end up from the rear subframe, in the center directly below the front mount for the rear differential. I put a solid hockey puck on top of the jack pad and it works fine. Just make sure you have it positioned squarely on that subframe member to prevent the car from slipping off crashing onto the jack, which will damage the rear differential.
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  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by kr3w45 View Post
    You could also jack the car up by the oil pan, they are pretty strong right?
    Pretty sure not serious. But don't do this.
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  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings Acejam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kr3w45 View Post
    You could also jack the car up by the oil pan, they are pretty strong right?
    They are strong, but I don't suggest it. Subaru guys do this for motor mount installs and I cringe at it. Admittedly, I've done it myself before, and dented my old STI's OEM pan. However, there really isn't any other way to get the motor up for certain installs.
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  38. #38
    Veteran Member Three Rings hotleadsingergu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acejam View Post
    They are strong, but I don't suggest it. Subaru guys do this for motor mount installs and I cringe at it. Admittedly, I've done it myself before, and dented my old STI's OEM pan. However, there really isn't any other way to get the motor up for certain installs.
    Except buying the tools that are literally built for the job...

  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings ryanhmusic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amz View Post
    I wouldn't use the widowmaker cars come with (aka the scissor jack) unless there was no other option.

    Here's a vid my rear dashcam captured of guys trying to use the widowmaker to put a spare on. Imagine if they had been under the car or had their fingers underneath anything...
    Quote Originally Posted by blackfunk View Post
    Wait did he really just lift the car? I need him to moonlight as my personal bouncer WTF homie..........
    Quote Originally Posted by SteveYem View Post
    Yeah really. He lifted that corner of the car pretty darn easily it appears.
    this is not getting as much attention as it deserves.

    what. the. fuck??

    did he one hand it?
    I'm living for the day I can park something Italian inside of my house.

    I had one wild summer on match.com. -some jackass

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  40. #40
    Veteran Member Four Rings The Fat Kid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanhmusic View Post
    this is not getting as much attention as it deserves.

    what. the. fuck??

    did he one hand it?
    I am not an engineer, but I would imagine that the rear corner is not that heavy since the car has essentially become a seesaw with the front quarter in the air counterbalancing.

    That, or you just found the real Clark Kent.

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