So you want to build your engine… Well, here’s how to do it.

[aluthman]

I decided to keep them because I intend to drive this thing everyday, and the increased vibrations would probably get old. I have stiffer drivetrain mounts also, so that isn't helping. I have also never really seen an enthusiast owned (aka well maintained) motor have a balance shaft issue. I have them in my current motor and have consistently revved to 7200 rpm with no issues. That particular set of balance shafts has 152k miles on it at this point.

I will also be using the updated oil pickup that has an alternate suction tube on the side. In the event the strainer becomes clogged, this tube opens to prevent a loss of oil pressure and can save the motor. I think this may be an underlying root cause of a lot of balance shaft failures. Low oil pressure going to steel shafts spinning inside an aluminum casting is a good recipe for seizure.

[Charles.waite]

I think that's a good thought on what causes these failures. The 2.0t uses basically the same oil pan and pickup and pump mechanism as the 1.8t and you see very few failures because I think it's a bit more tolerant of low pressure. With the b7 it seems by the time you have low enough pressure to trigger the idiot light, you're already fucked and the balance shafts are a minute away from seizing anyway. And when they seize it causes a shitload of cascading damage.

[Axis]

I decided to keep them because I intend to drive this thing everyday, and the increased vibrations would probably get old. I have stiffer drivetrain mounts also, so that isn't helping. I have also never really seen an enthusiast owned (aka well maintained) motor have a balance shaft issue. I have them in my current motor and have consistently revved to 7200 rpm with no issues. That particular set of balance shafts has 152k miles on it at this point.

I will also be using the updated oil pickup that has an alternate suction tube on the side. In the event the strainer becomes clogged, this tube opens to prevent a loss of oil pressure and can save the motor. I think this may be an underlying root cause of a lot of balance shaft failures. Low oil pressure going to steel shafts spinning inside an aluminum casting is a good recipe for seizure.

I have 034 mounts and tbh I dont (really) have more vibration after the 06A oil pump conversion. Didnt even know there was a revised pick up tube, I'm curious could you share the part number?

[aluthman]

Updated part: 06F115251B

Explained in this thread:
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads...cation.227639/

[oVeRdOsE]

Updated part: 06F115251B

Explained in this thread:
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads...cation.227639/

This is one reason why the previous owner of my b7 did a oil flush with oil engine cleaner at every 5000 miles.
Plus the magnetic oil plug. .
And of curse a good quality syntec oil. I use the liqui moly leichtlauf oil blend (well semi syn)

Let say I want to put the upgraded oil pickup line, how much time it takes in the average?
Is there any chance that a 2008 b7 got the upgraded pipe?

[Charles.waite]

Whoa I never knew about that. Looks like whenever I rebuild my engine that new pickup is going in for sure.

[Charles.waite]

This is one reason why the previous owner of my b7 did a oil flush with oil engine cleaner at every 5000 miles.
Plus the magnetic oil plug. .
And of curse a good quality syntec oil. I use the liqui moly leichtlauf oil blend (well semi syn)

Let say I want to put the upgraded oil pickup line, how much time it takes in the average?
Is there any chance that a 2008 b7 got the upgraded pipe?

Highly doubtful the 2008s have that pickup.

Also in most cases the pickup is clogged by rtv or plastic parts, not always sludge so oil treatments (like AutoRX) or something shouldn't always do much to solve the problem.

[oVeRdOsE]

Highly doubtful the 2008s have that pickup.

Also in most cases the pickup is clogged by rtv or plastic parts, not always sludge so oil treatments (like AutoRX) or something shouldn't always do much to solve the problem.

yes, probably. good point.

I need to take a look soon.

[aluthman]

Highly doubtful the 2008s have that pickup.

Also in most cases the pickup is clogged by rtv or plastic parts, not always sludge so oil treatments (like AutoRX) or something shouldn't always do much to solve the problem.

Also by water in the oil freezing in cold climates.

[vce1232000]

Also by water in the oil freezing in cold climates.

..............

[oVeRdOsE]

..............

indeed. -21°C (real) this morning here.

[aluthman]

..............

A wise man told me that

[p0isin]

Tons of good info in this thread. Glad to see things coming back together.

[KJack]

That updated oil pickup tube is awesome. I'll add it to my list of things to buy. Anything that can help prevent catastrophic engine failure is a good thing.

[aluthman]

Updates in post #75 to show you how to break tools.

[p0isin]

That crank bolt is a bitch to torque properly. To get the timing gear on easily I put it in the oven at 300 degrees for 20 minutes and it slid on easily.

[Charles.waite]

Stop breaking your tools rookie!

[Axis]

Now, using a breaker bar & a pipe, proceed to break your tools.

Made me chuckle at my desk

[Charles.waite]

Saw a few large plumes of smoke emanate from my tailpipe today driving home. Thanked the lord baby Jesus that this thread exists and at some point I can print it out, bind it, and make a guide book out of it for my eventual engine rebuild.

[aluthman]

Saw a few large plumes of smoke emanate from my tailpipe today driving home. Thanked the lord baby Jesus that this thread exists and at some point I can print it out, bind it, and make a guide book out of it for my eventual engine rebuild.

I have it all saved in a word file if you want it. It might be easier to print that way.

Edit: Also updated to show the final steps of assembly.

[Muggerrudd]

update?

[aluthman]

update?

It's done. All the latest updates are in the string of posts that start at #74. I haven't yet put it in the car though, if that's what you're asking. I need a good chunk of time off work and without having to watch kids to pull that off. Maybe V-day weekend...

[Denio24]

It's done. All the latest updates are in the string of posts that start at #74. I haven't yet put it in the car though, if that's what you're asking. I need a good chunk of time off work and without having to watch kids to pull that off. Maybe V-day weekend...

Quick question, how are you planning to break in the motor? Any specific method?

[aluthman]

Quick question, how are you planning to break in the motor? Any specific method?

Initial oil fill will be a non-detergent, non-synthetic SAE 30 oil. Brand depends on what I find. On initial start, I will only let it run for a few seconds just to make sure everything is hunky dory. Then once I finish putting everything back together, I'll go out and drive the car trying to avoid constant rpms. I'll try to keep a relatively high load on the engine when possible while avoiding the upper rpm range. You also want to do a lot of engine braking on decel. I'll put 50-100 miles on the car driving like this and then change the oil and filter. I'll go with a conventional 5w-30 for this one simply because it's cheap. Drive the car normally for the next 300-400 miles, then change the oil and filter again. At this point, go with whatever synthetic you want to run, I'll be running Rotella T6 5w-40 and going to 5k change intervals.

I'll also be breaking in my new JHM stage 3 clutch at the same time, so I won't be able to beat on it for a couple weeks.

[Denio24]

Initial oil fill will be a non-detergent, non-synthetic SAE 30 oil. Brand depends on what I find. On initial start, I will only let it run for a few seconds just to make sure everything is hunky dory. Then once I finish putting everything back together, I'll go out and drive the car trying to avoid constant rpms. I'll try to keep a relatively high load on the engine when possible while avoiding the upper rpm range. You also want to do a lot of engine braking on decel. I'll put 50-100 miles on the car driving like this and then change the oil and filter. I'll go with a conventional 5w-30 for this one simply because it's cheap. Drive the car normally for the next 300-400 miles, then change the oil and filter again. At this point, go with whatever synthetic you want to run, I'll be running Rotella T6 5w-40 and going to 5k change intervals.

I'll also be breaking in my new JHM stage 3 clutch at the same time, so I won't be able to beat on it for a couple weeks.

Thanks for this advice, ill be building my engine this year as well so this will come in handy.

[Charles.waite]

It's done. All the latest updates are in the string of posts that start at #74. I haven't yet put it in the car though, if that's what you're asking. I need a good chunk of time off work and without having to watch kids to pull that off. Maybe V-day weekend...

Might not be a bad idea to put a quick legend in the first post or have links connecting the shards of the diy. You know, to help nooblets like myself navigate the thread.

[aluthman]

Might not be a bad idea to put a quick legend in the first post or have links connecting the shards of the diy. You know, to help nooblets like myself navigate the thread.

There are only 2 chunks to the DIY. At the end of the first chunk, it tells you to go to post 74.

[Charles.waite]

There are only 2 chunks to the DIY. At the end of the first chunk, it tells you to go to post 74.

NO!!!!

[aluthman]

NO!!!!

Yes?





Side note: Holy shit at your post count man! I thought I wasted too much time on this forum.

[Charles.waite]

Yes?





Side note: Holy shit at your post count man! I thought I wasted too much time on this forum.

I have no life....

90% of it is in WinterMode...

[aluthman]

I have no life....

90% of it is in WinterMode...

I don't make it to the B6 section very often. Normally just to check out the build threads after I feel like I've read everything in the B7 section. On that note, I wonder if Doctor has any updates since I last looked...

[aluthman]

Sad day. Doc shelved the 2JZ and is going back to the 1.8T.

[Tsinsta93]

Awesome thread Aluthman, your knowledge is always fun to read! Couldn't help but notice that the tools you broke were Harbor Freight brand haha. I also snapped a drive adapter from there last night pulling my wheels off to do the brakes. Lifetime warranty my ass!!! Luckily had my dad's Ram on backup to go get some real impact grade stuff

[aluthman]

Awesome thread Aluthman, your knowledge is always fun to read! Couldn't help but notice that the tools you broke were Harbor Freight brand haha. I also snapped a drive adapter from there last night pulling my wheels off to do the brakes. Lifetime warranty my ass!!! Luckily had my dad's Ram on backup to go get some real impact grade stuff

The tools I broke were Craftsman. I haven't broken a HF tool yet. To be fair, they wouldn't have broken if I wasn't using a 3 ft. cheater pipe.

[Van Black]

I decided to keep them because I intend to drive this thing everyday, and the increased vibrations would probably get old. I have stiffer drivetrain mounts also, so that isn't helping. I have also never really seen an enthusiast owned (aka well maintained) motor have a balance shaft issue. I have them in my current motor and have consistently revved to 7200 rpm with no issues. That particular set of balance shafts has 152k miles on it at this point.

I will also be using the updated oil pickup that has an alternate suction tube on the side. In the event the strainer becomes clogged, this tube opens to prevent a loss of oil pressure and can save the motor. I think this may be an underlying root cause of a lot of balance shaft failures. Low oil pressure going to steel shafts spinning inside an aluminum casting is a good recipe for seizure.

Do you have any upgrades on the valves or rockers? I've read somewhere that RPMs over 7k cause the rocker arms to break...

[Tsinsta93]

The tools I broke were Craftsman. I haven't broken a HF tool yet. To be fair, they wouldn't have broken if I wasn't using a 3 ft. cheater pipe.

Sure enough, I saw Pittsburch on the socket but that extension was Craftsman. The 3ft cheater definitely increases the abuse. Still hoping to put it in this month and see if it solves the oil problem to your liking?

[aluthman]

Do you have any upgrades on the valves or rockers? I've read somewhere that RPMs over 7k cause the rocker arms to break...

My head already has Ferrea springs, valves, and retainers. The rockers and lifters are stock. IIRC, the stock spring retainers were the weak link at high rpm.

Sure enough, I saw Pittsburch on the socket but that extension was Craftsman. The 3ft cheater definitely increases the abuse. Still hoping to put it in this month and see if it solves the oil problem to your liking?

I think I'm going to install it on V-day weekend.

[Van Black]

So it's the retainer that snaps?
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...e-Build-Thread
That's where I've read about rockers failing. It's something I keep in mind because I've got a very
high rev style of driving sometimes.

[aluthman]

I've never actually talked to anyone that has had a valvetrain failure due to stock lifters/rocks/retainers. It's all been the "I know a guy whos brother's girlfriends cousin had it happen" type stories , so take it with a grain of salt.

[Charles.waite]

Yea. And unless you're revving the ever living nuts off the valve train I don't ever expect any failure there aside from valves burning up due to carbon buildup.