So you want to build your engine… Well, here’s how to do it.

[Denio24]

All that is possible and has been done. I actually considered it, but then i would need to buy another block and get it bored to 82.5mm. The fsi head bolts to the 1.8 block and the internals all swap over with just a bore of the cylinders. This also allows use of the 1.8 pump with no adapters needed. It's a great solution for those starting from scratch with a build, but I want to use the parts I already have.

Understandable, you've already gone too far in the process. Subbed!

[Charles.waite]

I took a look at the 06F and the 06A block and it's basically the same. Sure, the cyl head might be different between the two but it's the block that matters. And yes! I believe 06X family blocks are swappable. Performance over ride quality seems to be key here as far as balance shafts go. Anyway, having the rotating assembly balanced will do more good. Poor reliability should be no excuse for minival NVH decrease, engineers were posed with a dilemma and came out with a poorly designed engine.

2.0T FSI BPY (06F)


1.8T MPFI AWM (06A)


Looks like the only difference is the slightly larger coolant gallery on the 06A. not much of a difference.

My reasoning here: It would be easier to buy a shortblock for ~$200 instead of having extra machine work for the 1.8t conversion kit, in addition to the price of the conversion kit, and added headache of irregular oil pressure. With the 06A shortblock just bore it to the pistons of your choice.

Fair enough. I like to think the b7 2.0ts as a public beta test for their FSI tech. And we're all the testers...

I'll concede though, the blocks do look extremely similar. I do know that you would have to deal with the little issues with accessory mounting but other than that it's probably pretty plug and play.

[Jake@JHM]

I vaguely remember that if you put a 1.8t head on a 2.0t block, you have to find a timing belt that would fit as the 2.0t and the 1.8t belts are not the same. Might be something to consider if you are putting a 2.0t head on a 1.8t block.

[Denio24]

I vaguely remember that if you put a 1.8t head on a 2.0t block, you have to find a timing belt that would fit as the 2.0t and the 1.8t belts are not the same. Might be something to consider if you are putting a 2.0t head on a 1.8t block.

You have it wrong. I'm talking about putting a 2.0t head on a 1.8t block lol.

[aluthman]

I took a look at the 06F and the 06A block and it's basically the same. Sure, the cyl head might be different between the two but it's the block that matters. And yes! I believe 06X family blocks are swappable. Performance over ride quality seems to be key here as far as balance shafts go. Anyway, having the rotating assembly balanced will do more good. Poor reliability should be no excuse for minival NVH decrease, engineers were posed with a dilemma and came out with a poorly designed engine.

I vaguely remember that if you put a 1.8t head on a 2.0t block, you have to find a timing belt that would fit as the 2.0t and the 1.8t belts are not the same. Might be something to consider if you are putting a 2.0t head on a 1.8t block.

Exhibit A:

It's possible. The majority of the timing belt components are on the head anyway. You just need to use the 2.0 crank and timing gear.

[Charles.waite]

The only thing that couldn't easily be ported over to the 1.8t block is the timing tensioner. I think the 1.8t is missing a recess or something. And the mounting location for the idler is a bit different because of the old style hydro tensioner design. Last year they updated the tensioner design to be like the 2.0t but it's modified to work with the 1.8t mounting locations.

[aluthman]

The tensioner is on the head for the 2.0

[Denio24]

Have to look into this. Isn't the 1.8t tensioner on the head as well? Wouldn't it be easier just to swap to the 1.8t timing configuration?

[Charles.waite]

The tensioner is on the head for the 2.0

Oh shit. Hah. Carry on then. (Pretty sure it's the same for the 1.8t. I'm just a dummy)

[aluthman]

Wouldn't it be easier just to swap to the 1.8t timing configuration?

Why? There is nothing wrong with the 2.0 setup. The FSI head bolts right to the 1.8 block and nothing needs changed timing belt wise. You just need to bore the block to use 82.5mm pistons. It's just another way to run the 1.8 oil pump in an FSI car.

[Denio24]

Why? There is nothing wrong with the 2.0 setup. The FSI head bolts right to the 1.8 block and nothing needs changed timing belt wise. You just need to bore the block to use 82.5mm pistons. It's just another way to run the 1.8 oil pump in an FSI car.

Oh yes you are correct. my mistake. Looks like all the different timing components are situated in the 2.0 head.

[aluthman]

First post updated with progress.

[vce1232000]

First post updated with progress.

in ...........

[Charles.waite]

Really great update. Particularly the part about drying the block and coating it with a lubricant to displace the water.
I noticed while rebuilding my old calipers that after cleaning them with simple green and rinsing them off, I got a ton of surface rust because I didn't treat the exposed cast iron surface.

Those are the sorts of details that the majority of stuff online glosses over and the knowledge doesn't really transfer. awesome that you're putting this together.

Also I have a saved search for bpy, bpg, and bwt engines on eBay. Sadface.png

[Denio24]

Time for wire brush to remove any loose paint and slap on your favorite color!

[audihere06]

This is very similar to the build i just did. I have a almost complete 06A oil pump and oil filter housing kit that i need to get rid of. The only thing im missing is the crankshaft gear as far as i know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[aluthman]

I accumulated most of the parts to do the 1.8T oil pump swap and then bought a 2.0 balance shaft/oil pump assembly to put in it. Oh well. There is always the next engine lol.

[aluthman]

Updated with block painting and lower dipstick tube reinstall.

[vce1232000]

Updated with block painting and lower dipstick tube reinstall.

I was expecting to a brighter cheerful color

[aluthman]

Once you go black... hehehe

I thought about a different color, but it wouldn't really fit with my car.

[ryanhmusic]

Once you go black... hehehe

I thought about a different color, but it wouldn't really fit with my car.

Isn't black going make it harder (God forbid) to find leaks in the future?

[vce1232000]

Isn't black going make it harder (God forbid) to find leaks in the future?

A good re-er doesnt and wont worry about that . you ask. Because leaks wont happen in the future...........lol

[aluthman]

I'm not too concerned with being able to find leaks. After replacing all the gaskets/seals, there shouldn't be any leaks for a good long while.

[aluthman]

Update for main bearing installation and clearance measurement.

[Older_not_Wiser]

Update for main bearing installation and clearance measurement.

No Loctite or similar on ARP main bearing studs when going in to block? Or will that be done at final assembly?

[aluthman]

No Loctite or similar on ARP main bearing studs when going in to block? Or will that be done at final assembly?

Not required, but you can use red loctite. If you choose to use loctite, you must do the final torque sequence on the studs before it cures. I don't plan on using it.

[triton6346]

This is a great thread aluthman! Can't wait to see what you've got in store for us on the top end of the motor. I'm facing the same set of decision points with my old (but trusty) B7. Started sourcing parts for a 2.7 build last summer, but I'm really second guessing that plan.

[vce1232000]

This is a great thread aluthman! Can't wait to see what you've got in store for us on the top end of the motor.

I think he is planing just to out his built cylinder head from his old built short block over to his new re- short block

[aluthman]

I think he is planing just to out his built cylinder head from his old built short block over to his new re- short block

This. My head is already built. I have already outlined how to disassemble and reassemble the head in a different thread if you want to read that though.

[aluthman]

Updated with progress.

[Charles.waite]

Loving this. I think the best part is how you're really demystifying the process and making me more confident that I can do this eventually. I know it's "just nuts and bolts" but pictures and thorough walkthroughs like this are worth so much more than just a few general posts. As always, major props.

[triton6346]

Great update! It's the order of operations that is so helpful here. The individual tasks are seemingly straightforward, but doing them in the right order can be difficult to sort out at times.

Just curious....on that "plastic part" that goes in the block at the oil filter adapter location...did you re-use the existing part, or did you get a new one?

[aluthman]

Great update! It's the order of operations that is so helpful here. The individual tasks are seemingly straightforward, but doing them in the right order can be difficult to sort out at times.

Just curious....on that "plastic part" that goes in the block at the oil filter adapter location...did you re-use the existing part, or did you get a new one?

I reused it. I just made sure to clean it up really good.

Also, I'm glad people are finding this useful. It's almost as much work posting up the process as it is actually doing the work. Probably going to do the rings today or tomorrow.

[aluthman]

Next, do the same thing for the 2nd compression ring. I measured this ring at 0.013”.



The Audi spec for new rings is 0.008”-0.016”, & since I plan on boosting the piss out of this engine, I am shooting for the top of that band. I did a lot of research on the difference between the first & second compression ring gaps, & came to the conclusion that it wasn’t necessary to set the second gap any larger per say, but you don’t really want it smaller than the first compression ring. I decided to set both to 0.016”

Place the ring on the ring filer & ensure it is sitting square against the grinding wheel & that it is against the stop. Turn the crank counter clockwise to file the ring. You always want to file towards the center (away from the cylinder wall) or your rings could potentially score your cylinders. Be careful, go slow, & check often. Diamond grinding wheels can remove material pretty quickly. I chose to only file one edge to obtain the gap I wanted.



Keep at it until the 0.016” feeler just slips in.



Once it is filed to the correct gap, take some fine grit sandpaper & knock off any burrs from the ring edges.



Repeat the process for the top compression ring. Make sure you don’t mix up the 1st & 2nd compression rings.



When installing the oil control ring, find the edge of the spring & pull it apart a bit to expand it & then slip it into the bottom ring land on the piston.




A note about reusing pistons: You want to make sure your ring lands are nice and clean before installing your new rings. Some places will tell you to use an old ring to dig the gunk out of the ring lands, but I would advise against this as you can scratch the shit out of the ring land. I used a soda blaster to blast mine clean and they came out great. If you don't have access to a soda blaster, use solvent and a stiff bristle nylon brush or something similar that won't scratch the piston.

Use a pair of piston ring pliers to expand the ring & place it in the ring land over the top of the spring. Don’t try to do this by hand because you can scratch the piston & break or deform the ring. You want the opening of the spring to be on the opposite side of the piston from the ring gap.




Repeat with the 2 compression rings. Make sure you are installing the rings with the word top facing up.




Arrange the rings so that the gaps are 120 degrees apart from each other.



Finish the other pistons & remove the bolts & gaps to get ready to install them.



At the recommendation of my machine shop, I chose to lube the cylinders & piston skirts with Marvel Mystery Oil. WD-40 is also acceptable, but only if the engine will be started soon after assembly. WD-40 will evaporate, but the MMO stays on the cylinders if the engine won’t be started for a while. Smear some MMO on the inside of your ring compressor also.



After the cylinder & piston are lubed up, install the ring compressor on the piston. Leave a little bit of the skirt sticking out of the bottom to help with installation.


Apply assembly lube to the rod bearing only. Assembly lube on the rings or cylinders is a good way to get the rings to never seat correctly. Rotate the crank as needed to get the cylinder you are working with at BDC.

Center the piston over the bore & slowly lower the rod into the cylinder. Insert the protruding piston skirt into the bore & let the ring compressor sit on the deck of the block. Now take the handle of a hammer to carefully tap the piston down into the bore. If you feel anything catch, stop & try again. You don’t want to break your rings & have to buy new ones & file them again.




Flip the block & push the piston down into the bore & carefully guide the rod end onto the rod journal.



Install the cap & just snug up the rod bolts for now.



Rinse & repeat 3 more times.

Once all the pistons & rods are installed. Rotate the crank by hand to ensure it rotates smoothly. Now it’s time to torque the rod bolts. You want to do three torque cycles on the rod bolts to ensure that the clamping forces are uniform across all the bolts. Since I already torqued them once when checking clearances, I only did it twice here.



Now step back & admire your assembled short block.




In order to install the rear main seal, I had to get the engine off the stand. With most of the guts in place, lifting it off & setting it down myself is no longer an option, so time to try out my Christmas present from the wife.



The new rear main seal comes with this nifty little plastic spacer installed. Slip it on to the crank like so. This keeps it centered so you can push it on easily. Using your finger, smear a little clean oil onto the crank where you will be sliding the seal on.



Line the bolt holes up & carefully push the seal onto the crank & discard the plastic spacer.



The torque spec for these bolts is 10 Nm or ~88.5 in-lbs. Tighten them in a star pattern.



While the engine is off the stand, I may as well install the pilot bearing into the crank. I didn’t have to remove an old one since this engine was out of a transverse automatic. If you have to take one out, there are tools & methods all over the place to help you do this.

Line it up with the hole & make sure it’s centered.



Tap it in place until flush with the end of the crank with a dead blow mallet.



Time to install the oil pump. I was originally going to do the 1.8t oil pump conversion but decided against it for now. Maybe the next build… I was also considering deleting the balance shaft, but decided against that also. So I’m simply reinstalling a stock setup.

Start by setting cyl. #1 to TDC.



Next place the steel windage tray plate thing on the block. Note the two locating bushings. These are not attached to either the block or the pump, so hopefully you didn’t lose them when you took it apart. I tapped them in place after lining up the holes on the plate.

[aluthman]

Next comes the actual pump/balance shaft assembly. I cleaned mine up a bit since it was pretty dirty when I got it. Since I washed all the oil off, I put some assembly lube on the gears.



Set it down on the locating bushings & tap it down until it is seated. You want to use new bolts for this guy as they are stretch bolts & should not be reused, especially if you are retaining the balance shafts like I am. I have numbered the bolts to coincide with the ETKA part diagram that Charles.waite provided me in a different thread. (The silver bolt labeled as #16 is actually #17. The black #16 bolt is correct.)

Part numbers
#6 – WHT 000 360 A
#14 – N 911 495 01
#15 – WHT 000 006
#16 – N911 496 01
#17 – N104 305 02

Torque all of these bolts to 15 Nm or about 11 ft-lbs plus an additional 1/4 turn.



Now bolt your oil pump drive chain tensioner in place & torque those bolts to 15Nm/11 ft-lbs (no additional 1/4 turn for these).



In order to time the balance shafts to the crankshaft, you need to line up the dot on the balance shaft sprocket with the hole, all while cyl. #1 is set to TDC (we did this earlier, but double check).



Now place the chain on the balance shaft sprocket & the crank sprocket & ensure there is no slack in this length of chain. I inserted a 4mm hex driver into the hole to keep the sprocket from moving. Install the oil pump sprocket & torque the bolt to 20 Nm plus 1/4 turn. I used a new bolt (Part N 903 659 01) to be safe.



Pull the tensioner retaining pin & it should take up all slack in the chain.



Now you can reinstall the chain cover. It just pushed on & locks into place.



Clean the front of the block & the aluminum front cover really well with some laquer thinner or acetone to remove any oil. Squirt a thin bead of sealant on the cover, since there is no gasket. Don’t go overboard or it will all just squish out & make a mess. Audi sells an overpriced sealant for this, but I used Elring Dirko sealant instead, which is ~$18 a tube and each tube could probably seal up 10 engines or more. This stuff also works great for the cam tray in the head and is pretty easy to clean off if you have to unlike the Audi satan sealant which is rock hard after curing.



Locate it over the positioning pins & press it into place against the block. Install bolts & torque to 10Nm/7ft lbs.



Carefully place the crank seal on the crank snout & push as far on as you can by hand.



Place a large socket over the seal & tap the seal into the cover & onto the crank until it is just past flush with the cover. I used a 36mm socket & it fit perfectly. Most of you should have one of these since it is the same size the oil filter housing uses.





Put your timing gear in place on the crank. Now would be the time to dowel pin the crank if you are going to do so. I opted to use the IE billet timing gear instead, so I had to use the dead blow again.



Put the crank bolt in & torque to 90 Nm/66 ft lbs. In order to keep the crankshaft from rotating, I pulled the plastic windage tray from behind the oil pump and wedged a ¼" socket extension between the crank counter weight and the block.



You now have to go an additional 90 degrees to get the proper stretch on the bolt (use a new bolt obviously). I marked mine with a Sharpie so I had a visual reference.



Now, using a breaker bar & a pipe, proceed to break your tools.



In an effort to make my trip to Sears worthwhile, I decided to break one more & got a little closer.



Since I’m out of tools to try going any farther, I decided that was good enough. Multiple people have only been able to get an additional 45 degrees & I got close to 60, so I think it’ll be fine. Keep in mind that the toque spec for this bolt will be different if you choose to use the $50 ARP crank bolt instead. I didn’t really feel it was necessary to spend $50 on a bolt again (I have it in my current engine).

After the new pickup finally arrived, I got that bolted in place with a new o-ring & bolt. 15 Nm/11 ft lbs for that guy. You can see hear the backup suction for the pickup. This is a relatively new part revision (not sure how new) that can save your engine in the event the main pickup gets clogged or frozen.



Now it’s time to button up the bottom end. Squirt a bead of sealant on the oil pain seam. Make sure both the block & pan surfaces are clean before doing this.



Install the oil pan bolts & torque to 15 Nm/11 ft lbs. You can see in this picture that I've installed my new crank sensor and knock sensors. The knock sensors get torqued to 20 Nm/15 ft-lbs. Knock sensors can wear out over the life of a car, so I figured I would just get new ones since they were only about $30 each. I just tightened the crank sensor nice and tight.



All done. Just ready for the head. I won’t be installing that until my current engine is out of the car. I don’t really plan on documenting the engine removal/install because my engine bay barely resembles that of a stock B7 anymore. I’m not sure it would be worth the time investment in writing it up.





See my thread about replacing valve seals/guides for more information regarding head assembly.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ht=smoking+gun

[aluthman]

I've gone as far as I can go for now until my oil pump shows up in the mail. I’ll be using a 2.0 FSI oil pump/balance shaft assembly & will be deleting the balance shafts. Stay tuned.

[marlboro]

May be I missed it or may be it's not necessary for your application and max RPM, but are you planning to balance the engine with all those new internals?

Great thread by the way!

[aluthman]

May be I missed it or may be it's not necessary for your application and max RPM, but are you planning to balance the engine with all those new internals?

Great thread by the way!

I only planned on doing it if there was a noticeable difference in piston/rod weight. Since they were each within 1 gram assembled, I'll leave everything else to my Fluidampr to handle. I also don't plan on revving past 7200 rpm.

[aluthman]

Updated. Not gonna do balance shaft delete on this engine after all.

[Denio24]

Updated. Not gonna do balance shaft delete on this engine after all.

So what finally made you want to take that route?