So you want to build your engine… Well, here’s how to do it.

[aluthman]

As many of you may know, I have been battling with oil consumption for about a year now & have lost every battle in the war. When I first noticed the problem, I was burning about a quart every 1200-1300 miles. That was pretty easy to live with, but it was somewhat annoying, so I set out to fix it.

I tried everything under the sun: rebuilt turbo, new valve cover, new turbo drain line, BSH PCV plate, stock pcv, catch can setup, PCV vent to exhaust, valve guides, valve seals. All to no avail. The compression & leakdown results I got lead me to believe that my rings were ok (~170 psi & 4-6% leakdown on all cylinders). I guess I was mistaken. There is nowhere left to go but rings at this point, which is really upsetting since I only had about 46k miles on this built engine.

So what’s a guy to do? I considered parting the car, selling as-is, trading it in etc. In the end, I decided that a new motor was my ticket to happiness. I have too much money into this damn thing to quit now, & there is so much more I want to do with the car. I’ve even got a DTM front bumper in the basement that got back-burnered.

In order to minimize the downtime of the car & the garage, I figured that I should build a second motor & then just swap out the short blocks. I have my S10 to drive in the meantime, but I want the B7 on standby for those super snowy New England storms. I’ll just need to keep the oil topped off until the new engine is ready.

I started looking around & snagged a BPY 2.0 engine off of ebay for $350. For those that don’t know, the BPY is interchangeable with the BPG & BWT engines, but since it is a transverse engine, you need to swap the accessory mounts, oil pan, & oil pickup tube. Luckily for me, it was only about an hour & a half drive away to pick it up. The seller said that it had some bent valves that needed replaced, so I thought it would be a pretty quick wham-bam-thank-you-ma’am & back in business type of deal. Here it is after picking it up:



Doesn’t look too shabby on the outside, does it?

Well, it was a colossal train wreck on the inside, far worse than just some bent valves. The first thing I noticed was that the cam gear would not spin at all. I initially assumed (incorrectly), that this was just due to spring pressure. After talking with Mec, I found out that it should still be able to move by hand, even if it’s just a little bit. Time for surgery:


I pulled the valve cover & cam tray first to try to find out why the cams weren’t spinning.



So much for the hope that it was just bent valves keeping everything from moving. The cams were seized up tighter than an 18 year old on prom night, presumably due to a loss of oil pressure. Bad news: the cam bearings are part of the head casting & are not replaceable/repairable, aka this head is junk. Good news: Hahaha, gotcha. There isn’t any. Time for a full on autopsy, & I’m afraid what I’m going to find.

Fast forward a few bolts & this is what I see:



Well, sum bitch. That’s not good. Sure enough, the balance shafts seized in this motor, which snapped the oil pump drive chain, which causes a loss of oil pressure & bearings start wiping. Time to check on the main & rod bearings, so I unbolt everything & pull the crank.



Everything looks fine, except the #3 main bearing, which has just started to wipe. The oil pump drive sprocket on the front of the crank is wrecked, but that’s a replaceable part. So I brought the crank to my local machine shop (Larry’s Auto Machine in Groton, CT for anyone local), & had them check it out. They were able to polish the crank journals & clean it all up without having to really remove any material. A few bucks later & I have a gorgeous crank that looks like new.



With that out of the way, I need to focus on what else is still useable. The block looks to be perfectly fine with no scoring on any cylinders. Sweet, that’s a point for me. The rods & pistons seem to be fine, but stock rods blow donkey balls & who wants cast pistons? AZ to the rescue! I make a quick post & Derrek offers me his set of BPG forged pistons for the cost of shipping. Thanks! Here they are after some time in the ultrasonic cleaner with some Simple Green & hot water.



The pistons look great & even have most of the factory coating remaining on the skirts. The wrist pins looked a little less pretty. He admittedly beat on his motor & these pins had 145k miles on them when removed.



Lucky for me, the wrist pins I just took out of the motor looked pretty good with only slight wear marks.



From here, the wasn’t much else I could do but finish stripping down the block & collecting part for the build. Time to start searching.

Yet again an AZ member comes to the rescue. Vce1232000 offers me a B7 oil pan for the cost of shipping since I obviously can’t use the transverse oil pan that was on engine. Here she is after some quick cleaning, although I plan to get it hot tanked at the machine shop prior to actual assembly.



A few purchases through the AZ classifieds later & I have me a set of IE rifle drilled drop in rods, a Brush Research ball hone, & a set of OEM Mahle piston rings for my new (to me) forged pistons.



Right now, I’m almost ready to commence with the build. I just need to get the block cleaned up & ready for some paint, because who wants an ugly engine? Here she is all stripped down & ready to get bead blasted & hot tanked.


For those that are curious, the lower dipstick tube is pressed in & can be removed by using a small socket on an extension & tapping it out with a hammer.





The rest of the engine is pretty self explanatory for disassembly. Lefty-loosey, righty-tighty & whatnot. If you can’t figure out how to take it apart, you may want to rethink trying to build one. The DIY portion of this job will commence once I get the block back from the machine shop & I can start by honing the cylinders.

Since I didn’t already have these, I went to ebay & found me an inside & outside micrometer made by Starrett for about $140 shipped. Not bad considering what they sell for new.



After some searching, I finally decided on a Fowler dial bore gauge. It should more than suffice for what I need it for. I got it off Amazon for just over $100 I think..



I’ll show how to use it later.

Finally was able to pick up all my parts from the machine shop today! I was hoping that the block would have less paint on it, but I didn’t want to mess with decking the block or anything crazy from additional time in the shot blast cabinet.

The oil pan came back looking almost like new.



I also had the crowns milled off the oem pistons in order to drop the compression a bit. I just had them milled flush with the rest of the piston. They all currently weigh within a gram of each other also. This seemed to be the most cost effective way to reliably drop compression. It was even cheaper than a compression dropping head gasket since it only cost me an hour of labor at the machine shop ($125/hr). There was about 18.1g of aluminum removed from each piston, so using the thumbrule of 2.8g/cc, I gained about 6.5cc of combustion chamber volume. This equates to a static compression ratio of just under 9.5:1, which is exactly what I was shooting for.




On to the block prep! I wanted to get all the dirty stuff done at once & then only have to clean the block once. I started by cleaning up the deck of the block by using an angle die grinder & a yellor 3M Roloc bristle disc. I just wanted to make sure I had a good surface for the head gasket. The shot blasting left a mostly smooth finish already, but this effectively polished the surface. You also don’t have to worry too much about hurting the block with this tool. The aluminum head is a different story however.




Next up, was to run a tap down all the threaded holes to clean them up. Since this block came from a transverse setup, some of the holes I will need were not used before & had developed a decent amount of rust. Shot blasting can also roll the first thread over if you leave it in there long enough. I just wanted everything to be good, so I chased all the threads.



Now it was time to turn my attention to the cylinder bores. Here is how they looked after the time spent in the shot blast cabinet. It’s a far cry from what we want them to look like.



In order to clean these up, I used a Brush Research 240 grit 3.5” ball hone. As a lubricant, I used conventional 10w-30 motor oil, since that is what was recommended on the box the hone came in. I figured they knew better than me. A lot of people also use ATF for this with success. I doubt it makes that much difference.

The process I used was one I found online. I did 7 slow passes while spinning the drill CW & then another 7 slow passes CCW. Then I reversed the drill again & did 7 fast passes in order to get the ~45 degree cross hatch I wanted. The recommended speed for the hone is 600-800 rpm, but my slow speed drill only goes to 550 rpm. Oh well. Here is a video of me honing the last cylinder. I forgot which case I had on my GoPro, so the sound is really quiet, but I’m not about to re-hone my cylinder just to get a good video.



After all the honing is done, it’s time to clean the block. Wipe everything out with a rag to start with. Then get some hot soapy water & some brushes. I used a wheel brush in the bores & a gun cleaning rod with brass bristle brush for the oil galleys.







After you have everything scrubbed down, hose it down/out very well.



When you have everything clean, you need to dry the block with compressed air. Don’t wait to do this. Remember you have exposed cast iron that will flash rust in your cylinders in a matter of minutes. After everything is dry, spray the block down with WD-40 to displace any remaining moisture.

Here are the finished cylinders.



After using a combination of a 4” wire cup brush on my grinder & a compact needle scaler, I was ready to paint the block. I ended up using soap & water to scrub it down again to remove the WD-40. I wiped a little Marvel Mystery oil on the cylinder bores & internal machined surfaces to protect from rust. DO NOT USE ANYTHING AEROSOL or your paint won’t stick for shit. Just wipe it on & keep the exterior of the block free from oil. Make sure it’s clean & dry. I used VHT high temp primer & engine paint for this, but anything similar should work fine.

Mask it.


Prime it.


Paint it.

[aluthman]

Remove tape. I used some lacquer thinner on a clean rag to remove paint from areas I didn’t want painted, such as the threaded holes & knock sensor mounts.



Since the lower dipstick tube is pressed into the block at the factory, I had to figure out a way to get it back in. This is what I came up with. It's just a section of aluminum tubing cut and notched to use as a drift for pounding the dipstick tube back in.


It worked out really well, and after a few taps with a dead blow hammer it was seated in the block.



Since the balance shafts seized in this engine & tore up the oil pump drive sprocket on the crank, I needed to install a new one. This part is available from a few places, but I got mine from IE. I had previously removed the damaged gear with a 3 jaw puller, so that was already done. The gear is press-fit onto the crank, so you can’t just slip it on. This is as far as it will slide on easily. (When installing the new gear, the chamfered side goes towards the crank.)



In order to get the gear on the rest of the way, you need to heat up & expand the gear. I used a propane torch for this, but MAPP gas or oxy/acetylene would probably have worked better.



Once you have the gear good & hot, place a big socket over the crank snout & use a dead blow hammer to drive the gear home.




Time to start actually putting some things together. Let’s start by installing the new main bearings & checking bearing clearances. I will be doing this with both a dial bore gauge & with Plastigage. I’m curious to see how they compare.

I’m using ARP main studs again in this engine because extra strength is always a good thing & because I can torque & re-torque them multiple times without replacing them unlike the stock TTY bolts. Prior to installing the studs, make sure all the holes are clean & dry. Thread the studs in by hand until they fully seat. You can use a 4mm allen wrench/hex driver to help with this, but do not torque them. I just installed them as tight as 2 fingers could get them.

Then place the grooved bearing halves in place on the block. Start by aligning the tanged side & them press them in place with your fingers.



Install the smooth bearing halves in the main bearing caps now.



Use a dead blow mallet to tap the caps in place. The tangs for each bearing half should be on the same side of the block (intake side).



Now lube up the threads on the studs & the flat surface of the nuts with ARP Ultra-Torque fastener lubricant. A small sleeve of this is included with each stud kit, but I happened to have a larger tube that was already open. This lubricant is required in order to accurately duplicate the required clamping force with the torque values specified.



Now torque the nuts to 70 ft-lbs. in three incremental steps. I did 20 ft-lbs, then 40 ft-lbs, & then the full amount of 70 ft-lbs.



Now we are ready to check the clearance of the bearing. Start by getting your micrometer ready. Mine has interchangeable anvils, so I put in the 2”-3” anvil & checked it against the 2” standard. It was dead nuts on.



Next, I set the micrometer to the thickness of the main journals on the crank. Luckily, I only had to do this once because all of my main journals measured exactly the same at 2.125” (This is actually me measuring the rod journal, but the technique is no different).




Now we need to set & zero the dial bore gauge to 2.125” using the micrometer. By doing this, any deflection in the dial bore gauge will show us the deviation from the set measurement which just so happens to be out bearing clearance.



Now you want to carefully place the measuring head inside the bearing, being sure you are on a flat surface & not in the oiling groove. Give the bore gauge a small rock & find the spot where the needle is closest to zero. This is your reading & your bearing clearance. This one happened to read 0.0015”, which is right in the middle of the 0.001”-0.002” clearance range specified by Audi for new engines.




Work your way from the back of the engine to the front, repeating these steps for each bearing. All my bearings measured at 0.0015” except the #2 main bearing which read 0.002”.



Before I actually put the crank into the block, I need to install the oil galley plugs & the frost plug. I need to take the block off the stand to do this & it’s much easier to lift by myself when it’s just a bare block.

Here is a picture of the new plugs & the old plugs.



I never gave these much thought until I picked up the block from the machine shop & saw that they had removed them (I should have known they would to clean & shot blast it).

I went to the dealership to get new ones only to find out that you can only get the smaller plugs (14mm)through them. They don’t sell the larger one (18mm) for some reason. The part number for the smaller plugs is N 011 907 10. I spent some time searching online & finally located an acceptable aftermarket replacement for the larger one. They are made by Federal Mogul as part of their Sealed Power line. The part number is 381-2153. You can get these through your local NAPA. I had to buy an entire bag of 6, so if anyone ever needs one, let me know.

To install them, set them in place in their respective hole. You want to make sure the hole is clean and smooth or the plugs may leak. Some people choose to use various sealants on these also, but I didn't feel it was necessary.



Use a large hammer to carefully tap them in until flush with the block.



Then use a socket that is just small enough to fit inside & carefully tap it in just a little more so it is just barely recessed into the block.



Boom, all done.



From here I remounted the block to the stand & got ready to put the crank in the block.

CAREFULLY set the crank in place on the bearings. The center counterweights on the crank should be facing up to make it easier. Be extremely careful not to nick any of the bearing journals on anything.

After the crank is in place, lift it slightly off the bearings & rotate 90 degrees to allow easier access to the journals.



I wanted to double check my bearing clearances for piece of mind, so I decided to also check them with Plastigage. Cut a small piece of the 0.001”-0.003” Plastigage & lay it on the clean & dry crank.



Tap the caps in place with the handle of a dead blow hammer. Torque to spec. Then remove the cap. Be careful not to rotate the crank at all while doing this, since there is no lube on the bearings & because it will smear the Plastigage.



Check the smashed Plastigage against the wrapper. This was the #2 main bearing that read 0.002” clearance by dial bore gauge. It looks to be just under 0.002” by Plastigage. I’ll take it.





Clean all the Plastigage off the journal & bearing surfaces & remove the crank.

[aluthman]

Apply assembly lube of your choice to the bearings & smear them up.



Don’t forget about your thrust bearings that go on either side of the #3 main bearing.




Here is the perfect time to not do what I did & reinstall your piston oil squirters. I actually had the crank installed & the mains torqued before I realized this. You can’t install them with the crank in place. Well you can for all but cylinder #4. The crank sensor wheel keeps you from installing that one.



There was also a little plastic thing I had to reinstall in the block where the oil filter adapter bolts on.




Lube up the cap side bearings.





Torque the caps just like before when we checked the bearing clearances. It finally looks like I’m accomplishing something.



On to the connecting rods! Since I’m using stock pistons for this build, I’ve got the IE drop-in rods. These particular rods are rifle drilled. I would personally recommend spending the extra $100 for the rifle drilling, especially if you will be daily driving your car.

These came with the rod bolts already torqued, so first I had to get them apart. I just put them in the bench vise for this. Do not do this with steel knurled jaws on the vice. I made aluminum replacements for my vice a while back. These will not scratch or mar the rods. You don’t want to add a bunch of places for cracks to start propagating on your rods.



Once the bolts are out, you still need to get the caps off. Flip them around & wiggle them a bit to pop the caps off the rods.




Each cap is specific to each rod & they must maintain their original orientation to each other. Luckily, IE makes this easy as they number them for you. Keep each cap with the same numbered rod & the numbers should both be on the same side when assembled.



Here they are all disassembled.



Install the new rod bearings in the same fashion as the main bearings.



Put them back in the vice & torque them to spec. IE specifies 50 ft-lbs for the 3/8” ARP 2000 rod bolts that are included with these rods. Don’t forget to lube them with ARP fastener lube. I torqued the bolts to 25 ft-lbs first and then 50 ft-lbs.



Now setup the dial bore gauge like before, but use the rod journal size instead of main journal size. Check each rod/bearing for clearance & record.



The specified values for clearance are the same as for the main bearings (0.001”-0.002” for new bearings). My bearings all measured at 0.00225”, but since this crank has been polished that was to be expected. That extra clearance isn’t a concern, especially since many people add extra clearance on purpose for performance builds. 0.006” is the max serviceable bearing clearance.



With the crank in place in the block, it’s time to install the pistons on the rods. IE recommends that you install the tanged side of the bearing on the exhaust side of the engine, so just pay attention when putting everything together or you might be doing it again.

Start by installing the retaining clips on one side of the piston. I found that this is most easily accomplished by starting with one end in the opening & pressing down on the clip while pushing the other end into the groove with a large flat screwdriver tip.



Then lube up the small end of the rod & the inside of the piston.



Insert the wrist pin & spin slowly to help it get through the piston & rod.



Install the other retaining clip just like before.



Once you have the piston installed on the rod, drop a drill bit down into the wrist pin & use it as a pivot point for your screwdriver to spin the clips. You want the opening 180 degrees away from the pry slot.




Repeat for the other 3 pistons & rods.



Now it is time for one of the most tedious processes in the entire build. Filing the piston rings. Get all of your stuff together for doing the rings. Nothing fancy, just a basic ring filer, some feeler gauges, & a piston to set them square in the bore. I used a flat top BPY piston that I had since my milled pistons weren’t perfectly flat on top.



There are three rings on each piston. The oil control ring, & the 2 compression rings. When installing them on the piston you want to start from the bottom & work your way up. Throughout this entire process, pay attention to the ring orientation. They are all labeled TOP on one side. Don’t mess this up or they won’t work as designed.



Start with the oil control ring. Separate the small spring from the actual ring.



Place it in the bore & use a piston to ensure it is sitting square.




Take your feeler gauge & check the gap. Go larger until you can’t easily fit one in the gap. My oil control rings all measured at 0.015”, which is right in the middle of the spec of 0.01”-0.02”. None of these rings needed any filing.



Continued on post 74 (I ran out of room at the beginning of the thread)

[JDillon15]

Pretty excited for this. Good luck!!

[vce1232000]

PM me if you need other things. I usually have spare parts laying around if not using I can just ship you . Great success with the . I will be

[aluthman]

PM me if you need other things. I usually have spare parts laying around if not using I can just ship you . Great success with the . I will be

Will do, although I think the only things I need now are things that should be replaced with new like bearings/gaskets/seals. I am counting on you to work the kinks out of the JHM K04 tune though. I have high hopes.

[vce1232000]

I am counting on you to work the kinks out of the JHM K04 tune though. I have high hopes.

I do to

[Newman378]

Very interested in seeing how this goes, looks like you're off to a great start!

[08 classic]

Keep it up (no pun intended). In for the show

[1killera4]

I would recommend getting your micrometers calibrated by a reputable calibration house.

[aluthman]

They're dead on based on the standards that came with them. I'm not that concerned since everything will be measured with the same mic. I have more faith in a quality set of used micrometers than in plastigauge.

[thenofjboy]

Great thread and obviously subscribed! GL man

Gotta love when AZ members step up and help out the community!

[BenMTL]

Another saved B7

This section thanks you

[billyhoyle]

Great thread, and good luck with the rebuild!

[Khaotic]

Subscribed!

[texas02KL]

Just joined the forum after seeing your thread. I just bought a US spec a4 earlier this year, and getting ideas for it. Can't wait to see the rest of the build! This is my first car, and first european car so should be interesting.

[Charles.waite]

Dude you're the man. You're always like 2 or 3 steps ahead of me and paving the way with tons of useful information. Since I'll llikely be doing this exact thing on my car (rebuilding used engine) this thread will be bookmarked for sure.

Except in my pie in the sky plan I'll be going with a CDL engine (stock forged internals FTW).

If I might suggest something to focus future updates on, of most importance to me is piston ring fitment and filing technique, what sort of cleaning/machining procedures are recommended when refurbing a used engine, and checking cam/crank/bearing tolerances. I like the idea of using a mic way better than plastiguage (as torquing and removing stuff to do that is fiddly and annoying. Also I believe my Haynes manual has all the proper tolerances for the cams and crank if you're interested I can post the values for you.

[Jake@JHM]

Sub'd

[FraggyA4]

I wouldn't bother with the flexhone, I would take the block back where you got it hot tanked and have them hone it and deck the head. Our cylinder sleeves are pretty hard and I don't think the flexhones do as good as a job as an engine builder can do. I think when I did mine it cost me a mear $100 to get the block decked honed and hot tanked. I say it's worth it.

[al3k]

this is interesting stuff :D (sub´d)

[p0isin]

Good info, thanks for posting.

[aluthman]

If I might suggest something to focus future updates on, of most importance to me is piston ring fitment and filing technique, what sort of cleaning/machining procedures are recommended when refurbing a used engine, and checking cam/crank/bearing tolerances. I like the idea of using a mic way better than plastiguage (as torquing and removing stuff to do that is fiddly and annoying. Also I believe my Haynes manual has all the proper tolerances for the cams and crank if you're interested I can post the values for you.

I plan to go pretty in depth with these parts and may even bust out the gopro to do some short videos on the parts that might be difficult to capture with pictures (like using the ball hone).

I wouldn't bother with the flexhone, I would take the block back where you got it hot tanked and have them hone it and deck the head. Our cylinder sleeves are pretty hard and I don't think the flexhones do as good as a job as an engine builder can do. I think when I did mine it cost me a mear $100 to get the block decked honed and hot tanked. I say it's worth it.

I'm not disagreeing with you that a machine shop could probably create a more ideal finish on the cylinders, but I'm trying to do as much as possible by myself to save money. I've already dropped an obscene amount of cash into this car and I don't see the point in spending $100 extra for something I can do myself. I've seen the results of using a ball hone on a 1.8T block (which is virtually identical to our blocks), and liked the result.

[Axis]

Learned something new by reading one of your threads (again). Always thought the BPY was also offered in longitudinal form, seems I was wrong.

Break a leg!

[FraggyA4]

I plan to go pretty in depth with these parts and may even bust out the gopro to do some short videos on the parts that might be difficult to capture with pictures (like using the ball hone).



I'm not disagreeing with you that a machine shop could probably create a more ideal finish on the cylinders, but I'm trying to do as much as possible by myself to save money. I've already dropped an obscene amount of cash into this car and I don't see the point in spending $100 extra for something I can do myself. I've seen the results of using a ball hone on a 1.8T block (which is virtually identical to our blocks), and liked the result.

Yeah, understandable it was just a decent price for me to get the package deal done all at once. Also if you need any of the specialty tools let me know I have just about all of them now.

[Charles.waite]

TIL that the BPG had forged pistons!

(you're sure about that correct?)

[aluthman]

TIL that the BPG had forged pistons!

(you're sure about that correct?)

I'm positive that the crowned pistons in the BPG are forged. I'm not sure if they put any dished pistons in the later BPGs, but I doubt it. I posted pictures in another thread where I was looking for a set.

[turbo944s2]

So the head is not junk?

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

[vce1232000]

The pics ive of the cylinder off that motor was toast. I believe he is just the short block and going to use his built head

[aluthman]

So the head is not junk?

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

The head is trashed.

The pics ive of the cylinder off that motor was toast. I believe he is just the short block and going to use his built head

^This. I'll rebuild my current short block after putting this one in and then I'll sell it to reclaim some $$$.

[Chappya4b5]

Bookmarked for this. I've had my b7 for a month now and put about 2000 on it and about ready to add a second quart. Would be interested to find if the actual common problem with them burning so much was the Rings and not valve seals or pcv or anything else for that matter.

[aluthman]

For those not aware, the engine that is burning oil is not even remotely close to stock. The condition of the pistons or rings is in no way the fault of Audi. I have about 47k miles on the built motor and have my doubts as to whether the rings ever actually seated properly or not.

[SamsonKnight]

I have a good worki by bwt oil pump if your interested. Following this thread.

[aluthman]

I have a good worki by bwt oil pump if your interested. Following this thread.

As of right now, I'm planning on doing a 1.8T oil pump conversion. If you make me a deal I can't refuse, I could be persuaded to keep the 2.0 pump though.

[Denio24]

As of right now, I'm planning on doing a 1.8T oil pump conversion. If you make me a deal I can't refuse, I could be persuaded to keep the 2.0 pump though.

Just delete the balance shafts. That way you can keep your stock oil configuration and not have to worry about other modifications. Maybe a member on here is selling the complete balance shaft unit w/ oil pump with the delete already done.

[wildcat333]

Sweet.
GLWEB.

[Charles.waite]

I'm positive that the crowned pistons in the BPG are forged. I'm not sure if they put any dished pistons in the later BPGs, but I doubt it. I posted pictures in another thread where I was looking for a set.

I knew they were crowned just didn't know they were forged. Very interesting.

[Denio24]

Literally just thought of this, didn't know why I didn't think of it earlier.

Ditch the shi**y 06F design w/ the balance shafts altogether and source a 06A block and mate it to the BWT head & FSI system - whilst not changing the ecu and wiring harness to go to the 1.8t injection configuration. That way, you can run a realiable 1.8t lubrication configuration along with direct injection system. Or, you can just weld off the DI ports if you decide to do another FI setup. I'm currently trying to think of if there would be any other work involved, or if this may be at all possible, but I'm 99% sure it is - just do your stroker calculations. I'm wondering whether I should do this myself as it is a VERY appealing solution. I actually compared the photos and it looks like there is an additional small hole on the passenger side of the bwt head near CYL #4. This is most likely for another dowel pin, but all the oil and coolant galleries look the same. Blocks are basically the same just like two bolt holes for some brackets probably on the sides of are not there.

This way you get the proven reliability of 1.8T shortblock with the precision of FSI. Ohh the possibilities are endless.

1.8T Head

2.0T Head

[Charles.waite]

1.8ts run so much rougher than the 2.0ts. It's pretty noticeable. Frankly the smoothness is something I really like and deleting the balance shafts kills that.

Are you suggesting just using the 06a block and swapping Over the internals from the 2.0t, effectively making a striker 1.8t block with a 2.0t head bolted on? I'm not sure that'll work. I'll be honest, those coolant galleys look totally different to me...

[Denio24]

I took a look at the 06F and the 06A block and it's basically the same. Sure, the cyl head might be different between the two but it's the block that matters. And yes! I believe 06X family blocks are swappable. Performance over ride quality seems to be key here as far as balance shafts go. Anyway, having the rotating assembly balanced will do more good. Poor reliability should be no excuse for minival NVH decrease, engineers were posed with a dilemma and came out with a poorly designed engine.

2.0T FSI BPY (06F)


1.8T MPFI AWM (06A)


Looks like the only difference is the slightly larger coolant gallery on the 06A. not much of a difference.

My reasoning here: It would be easier to buy a shortblock for ~$200 instead of having extra machine work for the 1.8t conversion kit, in addition to the price of the conversion kit, and added headache of irregular oil pressure. With the 06A shortblock just bore it to the pistons of your choice.

[aluthman]

All that is possible and has been done. I actually considered it, but then i would need to buy another block and get it bored to 82.5mm. The fsi head bolts to the 1.8 block and the internals all swap over with just a bore of the cylinders. This also allows use of the 1.8 pump with no adapters needed. It's a great solution for those starting from scratch with a build, but I want to use the parts I already have.