Loss of Power + List of codes

[Townending]

I was driving down a mountain last night, mostly coasting, when I came to the bottom I went to hit the gas but there was almost no power. I pulled over and restarted the car and thats when the CEL/MIL came on. I was able to drive the remaining 30 miles home on the freeway with no issues other than very minimal power (I'm talking takes 30seconds to hit 60mph).

When I got home it was late at night so I parked the car in the driveway and let it sit until this morning. This morning I pulled the codes.

P0087 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure : Too Low
P0299 - Boost Pressure Regulation : Control Range Not Reached
P0300 - Random/Multiple Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P2188 - Bank 1 : System too Rich at Idle

I then cleared the codes and tried to start the car. The car was able to start, but the rpm was jumping all over the place from 600-1500rpm. The whole car was shaking with it. I pulled the codes again and this time they were.

P0300 - Random/Multiple Misfire Detected
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

I have not tried to leave the engine running through a cold start, the rpm's are jumping all over the place the car is shaking violently.

I do plan to take the car into the dealer very soon to get this and that recent recall checked out, but in the meantime, any ideas on where to start diagnostics? I don't really have parts to swap out, but any recommendations will be appreciated.

[shonseb]

Coil pack failure

[lettuce]

Coil pack failure

All four at once?

[Townending]

Update : I was able to get the car started, it was shaking but not as bad as earlier this morning. I drove to the gas station and added 2/3 tank of 91 on top of my 1/3 tank of E85. The engine wouldn't even start after adding the gas. I let it sit for 5 minutes, then it starts up shaking worse than when I left my house.

When I first left my house, the car was driving fine, but soon lost power again. I am going to pull the codes again to see if they have changed.

[Townending]

Coil pack failure

May I ask your reason for thinking this?

[richardm0025]

White smoke coming out the tail pipe at all?


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[van462]

Pull your spark plugs and look for ones that may be wet with fuel. You may have a stuck injector dumping so much gas it sends the air ratio so rich it can't burn. Possible can use so much gas at low rpm that the fuel rail pressure can drop and cause the other injectors to starve for gas. You exhaust will also smell rich (gas oder and burns your eyes a bit)

[Townending]

White smoke coming out the tail pipe at all?


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Yesterday morning during the cold startup there was, but it was also 20F outside.

[Townending]

Pull your spark plugs and look for ones that may be wet with fuel. You may have a stuck injector dumping so much gas it sends the air ratio so rich it can't burn. Possible can use so much gas at low rpm that the fuel rail pressure can drop and cause the other injectors to starve for gas. You exhaust will also smell rich (gas oder and burns your eyes a bit)

I have been noticing a stronger E85 smell than normal. I'll give this a shot!

[richardm0025]

Yes I bet it is an injector. If you drive on it, sooner or later you'll get white smoke (unburned gas) coming out your exhaust. Should be covered by the extended warranty if this is the issue.


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[bluetori]

Sounds like an injector as well or a control valve for the bank

[Townending]

I have had issues with injector 3 in the past (Misfire when cold), but for the past 3-5 months the issues have been gone. I haven't had a misfire trigger my MIL in months until last night.

Heres a pic of my sparkplugs (Order : Cylinder 4,3,2,1). Notice that the white insulator is white on spark plug 3, but the rest are yellowish. Am I correct in thinking this points to stuck injector?

As far as I could tell, none of the spark plugs felt wet, but 4 and 3 look wetter/darker than the other 2.

[van462]

The plugs look good. Since you have VCDS you could also look at the front O2 sensors lambda reading. At idle it should be 1. My fuel rail pressure reading at idle (776 PM) is 561 PSI. MAF reading of 2.66 g/s (altitude here is 300 feet). I am using an OBD reader for my numbers so I don't know the channel numbers for VCDS and likely some unit conversion if you wanted some comparisons. Fuel trims may give some indications of a leaking injector to see if the ECU is compensating for it.
An easy way to check for a faulty MAF is to unplug it and start the car. The ECU will default to baseline maps instead of MAF readings and usually idle just fine. It will stumble badly you apply throttle. Without MAF reading the car will also disable boost.

[Townending]

The plugs look good. Since you have VCDS you could also look at the front O2 sensors lambda reading. At idle it should be 1. My fuel rail pressure reading at idle (776 PM) is 561 PSI. MAF reading of 2.66 g/s (altitude here is 300 feet). I am using an OBD reader for my numbers so I don't know the channel numbers for VCDS and likely some unit conversion if you wanted some comparisons. Fuel trims may give some indications of a leaking injector to see if the ECU is compensating for it.
An easy way to check for a faulty MAF is to unplug it and start the car. The ECU will default to baseline maps instead of MAF readings and usually idle just fine. It will stumble badly you apply throttle. Without MAF reading the car will also disable boost.

I'll try to check these out when I get home from work. I'll have to read up on VDCS logging as I haven't had much luck with it in the past.


Anybody know the Audi part number for the injectors (Engine code CPMA)? I know they are the Bosch 62813, but I'd also like to know the OEM part number. Whenever I go to the Audi Genuine Part site, I simply can't find the injectors.

EDIT:
I have found the part number. Audi # 06H 906 036J, this part was superceded by Audi # 06H 906 036N.

[Townending]

Got the injectors, installed them, and the car starts up and runs smoothly! Thanks for all the help guys!

However, now my temp gauge stays at the very minimum and radiator fans are always as max. After doing some research looks like it could be a bad temp sensor, but I'm thinking I may have forgot to plug in a connection. It's too late now to take everything back apart, but will be taking it back apart tomorrow. Does anybody have any tips on where to look /what to look for?

New codes are :
Engine : P0118 Engine Coolant Temp Sensor - Signal Too High

HVAC : NO CODE (01314) Engine Control Module - Implausible Signal

These codes were not there before and I never had issues with the temp sensor until I replaced the injectors today. This is why I think I simply forgot to plug in a connection. Any help is always appreciated!

[van462]

Look just below the intake manifold. On the front of the water pump is a temp sensor connector.

[Townending]

Look just below the intake manifold. On the front of the water pump is a temp sensor connector.

I tried to look for that without removing the intake manifold and was unable to see it. Should I be able to see it with the intake manifold on?

[Townending]

Update: I went out as soon as the sun came up and starting taking the car back apart. After removing the throttle body and intake manifold support, I was able to see the coolant temp sensor. I plugged the cable in and that fixed the radiator fan/engine temp gauge issue.

However the HVAC issue is still there. Since I forgot to plug back in the coolant temp sensor, I'm leaning towards this for the HVAC. This weekend when I have more time I'll take the whole intake manifold back off and check again.

[S4'ed]

What is the HVAC issue?

Also, change your oil and filter ASAP, it can get a lot of gasoline in it when the injectors get stuck open/leaky.

[Townending]

What is the HVAC issue?

Also, change your oil and filter ASAP, it can get a lot of gasoline in it when the injectors get stuck open/leaky.

First thing I did was change the oil after confirming it ran fine.

HVAC issue is:

HVAC : (NO CODE) 01314 Engine Control Module - Implausible Signal

Since I forgot to plug back in the Coolant temp sensor, I'm going to assume I forgot another plug for the HVAC computer.... I dissembled the car a week before I got the parts to allow for any possible gas in the cylinder to evaporate. Parts were supposed to be in the following day, but got delayed for a week.... Pretty sure if I had done the job back to back I would not have forgot about these. At least next time I won't forget!

[Townending]

What a headache.

After replacing the injectors the car ran beautifully for 800 miles. Last night, I went to go start the car and it shook for about 1-2seconds before smoothing out. A few minutes later this was followed by the same loss in power from earlier. I checked the codes and had two.

P0087 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure : Too Low
P2293 - Fuel Pressure Regulator 2 Performance

Heres the weird part, if I clear the codes the car will run just fine for quite a while. Last night after initially starting the car, it took roughly 3 min for the CEL to come on and for the loss of power to take affect. Once the code came on, I still had 95 Miles to drive home. I cleared the codes, restarted the car and was doing 65 on the freeway. I drove for roughly 30 miles before pulling over to get some gas. I filled up with 2/3 a tank of 91. A minute after pulling out from the gas station, the CEL came on with the loss of power. I pulled over again, cleared the codes. I then drove another 40 miles at 65mph with no issues. For the last 25 miles of my trip, I was pushing the car hard and had 0 issues. When I pulled into my driveway, car had no CEL's and had full power.

The issues seem to be more prevalent on E85 which has me thinking its HPFP related and the E85 is stressing it extra hard.

I'd like to try swapping the Fuel pressure regulator if the part is not too expensive, but I have no been able to find it sold separately.

After work I'll have to pull all the fuel pressure readings and compare them to a healthy pump. Any ideas? Most information I find is for the B7 which helps, but still leaves a lot of gaps.

[Townending]

This morning the car started up just fine and drove with no issues the whole way to work... >_>