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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
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    Trans and motor mount question.

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    How hard is it to replace them, with the car on jack stands?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings JimmyBones's Avatar
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    Pretty easy.

    It is very helpful to have an engine support bar for replacing the engine mounts. That way the engine is held in place from above. You can do the same thing with a floor jack and a piece of wood though. Make sure that the subframe or transmission crossmember is supported with a floor jack and a piece of wood whenever you take the big 18 mm bolts out or put them back in.

    Make sure that you have some short 13 mm wrenches for the top engine mount nuts. Ratcheting short 13 mm wrenches would be ideal.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyBones View Post
    Pretty easy.

    It is very helpful to have an engine support bar for replacing the engine mounts. That way the engine is held in place from above. You can do the same thing with a floor jack and a piece of wood though. Make sure that the subframe or transmission crossmember is supported with a floor jack and a piece of wood whenever you take the big 18 mm bolts out or put them back in.

    Make sure that you have some short 13 mm wrenches for the top engine mount nuts. Ratcheting short 13 mm wrenches would be ideal.
    Ratcheting wrenches gotcha... As far as the support bar is there a specific one I should use or will this do the trick?

    http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings JimmyBones's Avatar
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    That is the support bar that I have. It works great.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyBones View Post
    That is the support bar that I have. It works great.

    Thanks man your always there to help.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
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    Also will I have to remove the sway bar and use new hardware?

  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings alcatranz518's Avatar
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    The sway bar will have to come out for the motor mounts, yes you can reuse the hardware if need be.

    Should you replace the hardware? Yes typically you should, but not a huge problem if you don't.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alcatranz518 View Post
    The sway bar will have to come out for the motor mounts, yes you can reuse the hardware if need be.

    Should you replace the hardware? Yes typically you should, but not a huge problem if you don't.
    Thanks.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings JimmyBones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by luvsspeed View Post
    Also will I have to remove the sway bar and use new hardware?
    I loosen the sway bar and leave it hanging from the end links.

    For the transmission mount depending on which exhaust you have, you may need to get new center exhaust clamps. The stock clamps rust out and can be a major PITA.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyBones View Post
    I loosen the sway bar and leave it hanging from the end links.

    For the transmission mount depending on which exhaust you have, you may need to get new center exhaust clamps. The stock clamps rust out and can be a major PITA.
    I just put a magnaflow catback on in may and reused the stock clamps. Surprisingly they were in great shape. Is disconnecting the battery required? If so I may just buy another one while I'm at. Its the original battery as far as I know.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
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    How tight space wise will it be to change them on jack stands? I wasn't claustrophobic until I changed my diff mount. Will changing the motor mounts be anything like that?

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by luvsspeed View Post
    How tight space wise will it be to change them on jack stands? I wasn't claustrophobic until I changed my diff mount. Will changing the motor mounts be anything like that?
    the sky's the limit as far as that goes, it just depends on how tall your jack stands are and how high your jack can go. I used to diy with a small cheapo jack that had barely any lift and I wouldn't recommend using one of those. When I finally bought a nicer more expensive one it made a big difference, one of my best tool purchases

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings jakeoboy67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by luvsspeed View Post
    How tight space wise will it be to change them on jack stands? I wasn't claustrophobic until I changed my diff mount. Will changing the motor mounts be anything like that?
    make sure you have a bar to support the engine from above (don't know the real name)

    it's a pretty serious job on jackstands

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings JimmyBones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakeoboy67 View Post
    make sure you have a bar to support the engine from above (don't know the real name)

    it's a pretty serious job on jackstands
    Engine support bar



    http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
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    I got the bar already, I haven't even opened the box. Any good attachment points on the engine?

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings JimmyBones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by luvsspeed View Post
    I got the bar already, I haven't even opened the box. Any good attachment points on the engine?
    The rear eyelets towards the back of the intake manifold. The rear driver's side is reachable with the support. The rear passenger's side needs a chain to reach the support bar hook.

  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings pandapod's Avatar
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    word of caution that the drivers side motor mount has a bolt that's a major bitch to get to...you'll need one of those swiveling-ratcheting wrenches so that you can make a 90 degree right angle to get to the bolt:



    Also i highly recommend replacing all of the motor mount bolts since they are supposed to be one time use. Same could be said for the sway bar end link bolts. When i replaced mine, i went with the 034 Motorsports sway bar end links as they have nuts on them and are not one time use.
    Sprint Blue Pearl B7 S4 with JHM IM spacers, K&N drop-in filter, 034Motorsports Density Line motor mounts, 034Motorsports sway bay end links

  18. #18
    Senior Member Two Rings icanfly's Avatar
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    Looking for a canyon to carve.

    Everything everyone already said is correct. I will add that I have an 034 density trans bush package NIB for sale and would highly recommend the Apikol transmount if you're looking for something even more stiff. PM if interested. I can box and ship tomorrow and will sell it for a little less than ECS just to get into someone elses hands.
    slow is fast...

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pandapod View Post
    word of caution that the drivers side motor mount has a bolt that's a major bitch to get to...you'll need one of those swiveling-ratcheting wrenches so that you can make a 90 degree right angle to get to the bolt:



    Also i highly recommend replacing all of the motor mount bolts since they are supposed to be one time use. Same could be said for the sway bar end link bolts. When i replaced mine, i went with the 034 Motorsports sway bar end links as they have nuts on them and are not one time use.
    I might have to look into that. I have something to return at harbor freight and might pick up a set.

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by icanfly View Post
    Everything everyone already said is correct. I will add that I have an 034 density trans bush package NIB for sale and would highly recommend the Apikol transmount if you're looking for something even more stiff. PM if interested. I can box and ship tomorrow and will sell it for a little less than ECS just to get into someone elses hands.
    Thanks, but I already have that and their motor mounts from the black Friday sale.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyBones View Post
    The rear eyelets towards the back of the intake manifold. The rear driver's side is reachable with the support. The rear passenger's side needs a chain to reach the support bar hook.
    Thanks jimmy

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
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    Well changed my motor and trans mounts about a month ago. I have 034 engine, trans, snub mounts and spulen diff mount. Now I installed them all at different times . Starting with the diff mount over a yr ago and ending with the trans and engine mounts this yr. Now all in all they all have made a big improvement, however I can still fell some shift slop if I am not careful. Mainly 2nd and 3rd shifts. Is it normal not to completely get rid of it with our cars, or could I still have a weak link somewhere? The only things I could it could be are the spulen diff mount it not firm enough or maybe the snub mount. I had to shave it to stop it from rubbing. This was before I did the motor mounts

  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by luvsspeed View Post
    I can still fell some shift slop if I am not careful. Mainly 2nd and 3rd shifts. Is it normal not to completely get rid of it with our cars, or could I still have a weak link somewhere?
    Without actually feeling what's happening, it's hard to say, but your shifter/linkage could be the issue. If you're not comfortable adjusting it, take it to a reputable shop (or even an Audi dealer) and tell them what's going on. If that is the case, it should be a quick fix and won't cost much at all. If you don't have an aftermarket shifter, I'd HIGHLY suggest buying one. It makes a huge difference.

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmh88 View Post
    Without actually feeling what's happening, it's hard to say, but your shifter/linkage could be the issue. If you're not comfortable adjusting it, take it to a reputable shop (or even an Audi dealer) and tell them what's going on. If that is the case, it should be a quick fix and won't cost much at all. If you don't have an aftermarket shifter, I'd HIGHLY suggest buying one. It makes a huge difference.
    Its not a shifter issue. Its the driveline slop. If that makes any sense.

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