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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring Ilya K.'s Avatar
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    Nov 21 2015
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    364769
    My Garage
    1979 MG Midget Track/Street 2002 Yamaha R6
    Location
    Ray Brook NY

    ...don't shoot me

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    This may seem like a silly question. I have 215k miles on my 3.2 and I'm starting to develop a bunch of little annoying probelms(leaks that I don't feel like chasing down anymore, clicking and clacking valves, probably will need a timing chain sometime down the road, general burning of oil, etc.) The motor runs beautiful, and is not as horrible as i make it sound
    I just know that in the next 20k or so it will be more practical to replace than repair. My thought is to buy a 100k or less mile motor and trans from a wrecker.
    I can get one right now for a very reasonable price with 100k miles, A+ condition, 120psi cold compression. This is the only number throwing me off. I had an old Chevy 305(not 350) many years ago with 236k miles and I had 165-175 psi cold compression across the board. I'm home right now and don't have access to my shop computer and came find compression specs anywhere. 120 starting to get on the low end?

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings SamsonKnight's Avatar
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    Sep 28 2013
    AZ Member #
    123983
    Location
    NC

    Bang!!
    2008 Ibis White A4 FrankenF23, Custom Tuned by Brandon @Breakout Motorsports, Wosner pistons, IE Forged Rods, 1.8t oil pump, 034 hfc, MagnaFlow Mufflers, Cupra R Lip, S4 Door Blades.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    Mar 24 2013
    AZ Member #
    111961
    Location
    Oakdale, CT

    Quote Originally Posted by Ilya K. View Post
    This may seem like a silly question. I have 215k miles on my 3.2 and I'm starting to develop a bunch of little annoying probelms(leaks that I don't feel like chasing down anymore, clicking and clacking valves, probably will need a timing chain sometime down the road, general burning of oil, etc.) The motor runs beautiful, and is not as horrible as i make it sound
    I just know that in the next 20k or so it will be more practical to replace than repair. My thought is to buy a 100k or less mile motor and trans from a wrecker.
    I can get one right now for a very reasonable price with 100k miles, A+ condition, 120psi cold compression. This is the only number throwing me off. I had an old Chevy 305(not 350) many years ago with 236k miles and I had 165-175 psi cold compression across the board. I'm home right now and don't have access to my shop computer and came find compression specs anywhere. 120 starting to get on the low end?
    There is something wrong with that engine. A stock engine (2.0) should be 160 psi at the bare minimum. Since the 3.2 is even higher compression, I would look at something closer to 200 psi minimum.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  4. #4
    Active Member One Ring Ilya K.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 21 2015
    AZ Member #
    364769
    My Garage
    1979 MG Midget Track/Street 2002 Yamaha R6
    Location
    Ray Brook NY

    Confirmed. Around 205 psi for a new motor, 145 minimum according to factory service manual. Should be sent to the scrap pile rather than sold. Oh well, just need to keep on looking.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings LINDW4LL's Avatar
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    Dec 10 2011
    AZ Member #
    85071
    My Garage
    991 C2S, Stage 3 S4, E46 M3
    Location
    CLT | MKE

    I think you're probably better off just selling the car at this point.
    -Hayden

    B9 Q5 | Brilliant Black
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  6. #6
    Active Member One Ring Ilya K.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 21 2015
    AZ Member #
    364769
    My Garage
    1979 MG Midget Track/Street 2002 Yamaha R6
    Location
    Ray Brook NY

    Nah, if you read my first post I have 215k miles on the car. She still runs and drives really well. I maintained her since 50k(fesh out of dealer warranty) for a very anal PO. I'm just getting to a point where in the next 20k I might as well replace both motor and trans as it make more sense financially. A deal came up from a wrecker that would costess than a chain timing kit for both motor and trans. I was not on my shop computer so I could not get compression specs. do this for a living so I'm not worried about labor costs, and my parts bills are much less than your average consumer. I love the car, everything works, and the body has zero rust or dents. Might as well re fresh with a good used drivetrains and squeeze another 100k out of her.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings 1killera4's Avatar
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    Mar 18 2014
    AZ Member #
    158620
    Location
    Dunedin Florida

    Quote Originally Posted by LINDW4LL View Post
    I think you're probably better off just selling the car at this point.
    WERD.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings mtroxel's Avatar
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    Feb 24 2004
    AZ Member #
    858
    Location
    Minneapolis

    If you love the car and want a project this winter, buy a new motor. But even if you make the case that the motor is cold and the compression will read a little low, that 120psi (8.2 bar) is pretty low. And what's to say you don't need to do timing chains and work some leaks on the used motor? Might be the same amount of work to pull your motor, do the chains and what ever is causing the low compression.

    11 A4 Q, Prestige, Black
    207,000 miles, APR Stage 1

  9. #9
    Active Member One Ring Ilya K.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 21 2015
    AZ Member #
    364769
    My Garage
    1979 MG Midget Track/Street 2002 Yamaha R6
    Location
    Ray Brook NY

    Motor in the car is fine for now. Starting to develop small issues and having 215k I want to start looking for something fresher for a rainy day. The one I was looking at was very inexpensive. The seller says has 120cold compression. Was at home and did not have access to a factory service manual, happens to be at work. Asked because I could not find a definitive spec online. 120 seemed low. Next day at work looked up the specs, 145 is service limit. My motor is all good and the car is not being sold haha. Thanks all!
    Last edited by Ilya K.; 11-25-2015 at 07:13 PM. Reason: Darn autocorrect

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings audihere06's Avatar
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    Nov 11 2013
    AZ Member #
    129508
    Location
    Charlotte NC

    From experience. I would buy a used low milage engine and rebuild it. That way you have basically a brand new engine. That compression is way too low especially for a 3.2.


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  11. #11
    Active Member One Ring Ilya K.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 21 2015
    AZ Member #
    364769
    My Garage
    1979 MG Midget Track/Street 2002 Yamaha R6
    Location
    Ray Brook NY

    Quote Originally Posted by audihere06 View Post
    From experience. I would buy a used low milage engine and rebuild it. That way you have basically a brand new engine. That compression is way too low especially for a 3.2.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    My thoughts exactly and I was also going to put a tranny in there while I was at it. I'm a sucker for my elder Euros, I had an e34 530 prior to this one. Something about the more connected to the driving experience of a properly set up old v. new.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings audihere06's Avatar
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    Nov 11 2013
    AZ Member #
    129508
    Location
    Charlotte NC

    Quote Originally Posted by Ilya K. View Post
    My thoughts exactly and I was also going to put a tranny in there while I was at it. I'm a sucker for my elder Euros, I had an e34 530 prior to this one. Something about the more connected to the driving experience of a properly set up old v. new.
    I agree. I dont like the way the b8 drives. I drove an e36 328 while my engine was being rebuilt.


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