Bad startup

**Leon 20VT4** · 11-23-2015 03:12 PM

Motor back in and here is what i get:

Coolant leakages

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.28.24.mp4

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.02.29.mp4

Clutch problem

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2021.30.10.mp4

FML

**Royal769sr** · 11-23-2015 07:00 PM

The coolant leak sucks but could be minor.
Clutch problem looks like air in system, or maybe the rod in the slave? Both minor. You're almost there.

**cinimod25461** · 11-23-2015 11:23 PM

I basically ran into the same problems! Just put the motor back in over the weekend. Instead of a coolant leak, I discovered an oil leak while priming it. I also popped the slave cylinder so my clutch pedal is doing the same thing as yours.

There's no coolant in the motor so I have yet to find out if I have any coolant leaks. Fingers crossed.

Good luck on getting your issues sorted out!

**Leon 20VT4** · 11-25-2015 11:50 AM

Got the slave sylinder out today...

What now? Install a new one and the clutch should be good, or has there been damage to the clutch (oil)? The level in the brakefluid container had gone from max to min...

The coolant had stopped dripping, didn't look more into this though. The level in the coolant container had also gone down from max to min.

cinimod, i am following your build thread. Hope you get things sorted out! Keep us updated :)

**Monty23** · 11-25-2015 11:57 AM

I have been saying this for a while now, but why doesn't anyone pressurize the LEAK PRONE coolant system THAT YOU CAN'T ACCESS prior to dropping the motor back into the engine bay?

**Leon 20VT4** · 11-25-2015 12:06 PM

Originally Posted by Monty23

I have been saying this for a while now, but why doesn't anyone pressurize the LEAK PRONE coolant system THAT YOU CAN'T ACCESS prior to dropping the motor back into the engine bay?

Wish i did. How do you do it? :)

**Monty23** · 11-25-2015 12:16 PM

You can wheel the motor over to the rad support that is probable connected to the AC still, and hook up the rad, then attach your coolant overflow tank. Cap off the small top nipple on the over flow tank and plumb some air from a regulated air supply (like 10psi MAX) and fill the system with air. Then spay soapy water all of the banjo fittings to check for leaks.

**Leon 20VT4** · 11-26-2015 04:09 AM

New slave sylinder ordered, getting it tomorrow. Should i be worried about the clutch?

What about the coolant leakage? Could it be that the leak is above the turbos somewhere? Is it possible to tighten the banjos on top of the turbos with the engine in?

**Leon 20VT4** · 11-26-2015 07:03 AM

About the fat copper washers on the spacers to the top banjo's, is it possible to use regular copper washers there? That is what i did :S

**Leon 20VT4** · 11-27-2015 02:34 PM

New slave cylinder installed. I spent a lot of time trying to get it seated properly. I tried different tools to try to push/hold it in so i could enter the bolt. After a lot of swearing and patience i went for a piss. Came back, tried reseating it, got the bolt in, no tools used. It felt right!

Opened the bleeder, no fluid. Closed the bleeder, tried the clutch with my hand and it went straight in as in the video. I then went back and opened the bleeder, after some time i heard fluid dripping and hurried to close the bleeder. Went to try the clutch again with my hand and it felt normal up to half the way in, then it stopped. I tried again, same thing. I did not try to apply more pressure.

Thoughts here? Is it possible it could be something else than it not being seated in the fork? Needs more bleeding?

**DieselElectric** · 11-27-2015 03:03 PM

Originally Posted by Monty23

You can wheel the motor over to the rad support that is probable connected to the AC still, and hook up the rad, then attach your coolant overflow tank. Cap off the small top nipple on the over flow tank and plumb some air from a regulated air supply (like 10psi MAX) and fill the system with air. Then spay soapy water all of the banjo fittings to check for leaks.

Better yet, get a designated cooling system pressure tester with a hand pump. I used to set it up, go to lunch, and if it was still where I left it an hour later, good to go. I always did it with the system full of water, since water doesn't compress, your only compressing the small amount of air at the top. It makes a leak very obvious off of air leak down.

You want to set it to operating pressure, usually 15psi.

All that said, I didn't do any of this when I went stage 3. If you are careful to clean surfaces and torque properly with new crush washers, this shouldn't be an issue.

**Leon 20VT4** · 11-30-2015 10:36 AM

A little update:

I started the car today and there were no dripping! Obviously the slave sylinder had something to do with it, maybe it was oil?
After i had let it run for some minutes i turned it off and a small drip started. Used a boroscope and found that the blind plug on the left side turbo was leaking. Should be a easy fix.

I then tried the clutch pedal again, put just a little force to it when it stopped. After that i got some oil dripping again. FFS, why did i have to try? So stupid! I hope i didn't blow the new slave cylinder. No lectures needed...

**DieselElectric** · 11-30-2015 03:10 PM

Are you using a SAC pressure plate? It looks like you are over extending the slave cylinder. Only way I could see that is if the pressure plate is adjusted all the way out, so when torqued down the fingers are already compressed quite a bit.

Those SAC mechanisms can jump to the furthest adjustment from the slightest bump.

**Leon 20VT4** · 12-01-2015 12:02 PM

The clutch was in the car when i bought it, so i don't know much about it :/

I tried reseating it today and i got the same thing. Only 1/3 of the clutch movement

When installing it i made sure i hit metal before i took it all the way in. This time i felt like i had more resistance on the way in and thought; that must be it.

W T F ?

-Does the fork easily get damaged? We did use a crowbar for a bit more leverage to get it in...
-Could it be mechanically locked somewhere?
-Is the fork movable by handforce?

**Monty23** · 12-01-2015 01:17 PM

-Is the fork movable by handforce? Yes, it should easily move by hand.

You used a crow bar to install the plastic slave? That sounds like a bad idea since the slave will easily crack and break. The fork is pretty stout.

Have you tried the tips outlined here:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ing-101-by-JHM

**Leon 20VT4** · 12-01-2015 01:24 PM

Ok, then i will stick a screwdriver or something in to see if i can operate it. My fingers didn't reach.

Didn't use much force with the crowbar as i know how brittle it is. Have installed it by hand two times before with success.

I have read that guide and everything else i have come across, but it didn't give me the answers i needed

**Monty23** · 12-01-2015 01:39 PM

Originally Posted by Leon 20VT4

Ok, then i will stick a screwdriver or something in to see if i can operate it. My fingers didn't reach.

Didn't use much force with the crowbar as i know how brittle it is. Have installed it by hand two times before with success.

I have read that guide and everything else i have come across, but it didn't give me the answers i needed

I miss understood you question about the fork movement. I am not sure how much travel it will have with the PP fingers pressing on the TOB. I meant that the fork/TOB easily slides on the input shaft/TOB guide with the trans separated from the engine. shoot me a PM and I can send you some info on the trans that may help.