How To DIY - Dropping Automatic Transmission and Replacing Rear Main Seal

[bakedziti]

I've looked on the erwin site and can never find the manuals. I'm surprised someone who downloaded the erwin manual hasn't uploaded it to Dropbox or Google drive and shared it with the community.

I created a throw away email and stored this on google drive. Its too big to view in drive, so you'll need to download the PDF.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzh...ew?usp=sharing

I have this.

[misterpepper]

A huge thank you to the OP. Without this DIY I never would have attempted this repair. Quotes from local indy shops were coming back betseen $1200 and $1600, but this DIY made it seem doable. I like to do my own repairs where possible, and even though this is bigger than I would normally tackle I thought what the heck. As a way to give back I have a few notes to add:

The repair took probably 20 hours. Included in that 20 hours are 2 drain/fill cycles of the transmission and an oil change. Definitely something that can be done in a weekend.

It's a messy job. You will get oily, as will whatever surface you are doing it on. Plan accordingly.

I had an impact wrench and pneumatic ratchet on hand. I didn't use them much and I don't think they are necessary. Maybe to get the front drivelines loose, but all you would need to do is figure out how to stop the opposite rotor from turning while you break them loose if you did it by hand. If you do use an impact make sure your triple squares are good quality. The transmission bolts between the firewall all spun out easily by hand once they had been loosened half a turn.

Some additional tool notes:
The 18mm 12 point socket I used was short, 1/2" drive. A deep socket might have been a tight fit in some places.
The 16mm socket should also be 12 point.
A 16mm gear or combination (12 point closed end) wrench for removing the torque converter bolts. My socket/ratchet combination was too tall to fit.
An 18mm gear wrench.
An 18mm combination (12 point closed end) wrench.
24mm short socket (for the crank pulley -- noted in the DIY but size not called out).
10mm and 12mm triple square bits (also noted but size not called out)
Cheater pipe that fits over the open end of your 16mm wrench for the torque converter bolts. Black plastic pipe worked for me.
Some short (~1" and ~2") 1/2" extensions and a 1/2" swivel for getting at the bolts between the firewall. Options makes for easier access.
A 6mm ball end hex with about 18" of skinny extension would have been nice for the passenger side transmission cover.

Label your bolts. There are 11 holding the transmission, seemingly all different lengths. You will be accessing them from top and bottom, front and rear, so it's a good idea to come up with a system that you can keep track of which ones go where.

I was able to access 6 bolts from up top. Two had small brackets for cables/hoses attached. The one holding the starter also had a small ~1" cylindrical aluminum spacer.

Of the 5 bolts you can access from underneath 3 are 16mm 12 point, and one is the 16mm hex holding the starter.

Getting the starter spacer back in place is somewhat difficult. I started the bolt from above and got the spacer in place from below, sliding the bolt through the spacer to hold it. Leave the lower starter bolt slightly loose until you get the top bolt and spacer started.

The furthest forward of the 3 6mm transmission cover bolts (step 5) was difficult to access with a regular hex. I removed a U-shaped plastic piece inside the wheel well (2x 10mm plastic nuts) to get better access. There is a straight shot at it with a ball end hex and about 18mm of extension, but it can be done without.

There are 6 18mm crossmember bolts in step 6, a well as a 10mm nut holding the power steering line.

In step 7 I removed 2 13mm bolts to disconnect the exhaust. I didn't want to deal with the spring if I removed the end with only 1 bolt. Also in this step, pull the steering column coupler bolt completely. I only loosened it and the coupler wouldn't come off so I started taking the steering rack out. If you pull the bolt completely you can slide the coupler off and the column telescopes up about a foot to get out of the way when dropping the trans.

I lost about 1/2 liter of power steering fluid, so definitely have some on hand.

Doing the drain/fill twice on the transmission took a little over 6 liters I think. I removed all the underside covers, drained/filled the trans, then took it to the carwash to clean some of the oil off the undercarriage before I started really wrenching. This way the new fluid was well mixed for the second drain/fill. This meant I needed to make sure the car was well leveled on the jack stands, not just fairly high up.

In step 10 I also removed the transmission bracket completely (3x 13mm nuts) to make dropping the tail end of the transmission past the exhaust easier.

I had the same trans jack as the OP. I used 2x hockey pucks up front and a piece of 2x2 wood with a section about 3/4" deep x 6" long cut out in the rear. This kept the transmission pretty level and made stabbing it in easier.

When stabbing the transmission back in have a friend handy if possible. When the transmission is removed the engine wants to tilt forward slightly. Having someone help raise/lower the transmission as you navigate it back into position past the front drivelines and transmission hard lines is very helpful, as is having them tilt the engine back into a better position for the final inch or so.

[bluetori]

I just did this too about a month ago it did suck I never replaced the fluid had some leaking after final install through the connector that suddenly stopped after a couple of days. I have put on several hundred miles since then and all is well. I just need to get a new trains shield plate because mine was so destroyed from having my Avant very low on coilovers and driving on cobblestone streets.

Misterpepper did you go with the uprated billet one or the OE one?

[nofx1981]

Just completed this job last weekend and wanted to say thanks for the DIY, it was a huge help! Don't think I would have done it nearly as quickly without it, and it took me 2-2.5 days! I used a motorcycle jack with strategically placed lumber to remove and put back the transmission. The drive way I was on was also pretty rough, so I had to use ratchet straps to move the jack forwards and backwards. I also used long 1/4" socket extensions to line up the bolt holes to make it easier to start the first couple bolts... after that it was easy!

Thanks again!

[misterpepper]

I used the billet version. I called around to a couple of shops to get pricing before I attempted the DIY and there were enough reports of this or that revision of the factory seal were problematic I figured it was worth the extra $50 or so to upgrade to the billet seal. No problems and zero leaks so far, with maybe 3k miles since the repair. I am having a bit of shift weirdness still, but I'm sure that is due to my changing the fluid as well. I never reset the adaptations in hopes that it would re-learn the new fluid, but I'm thinking I may need to plug it into the VAGCOM after all.

[wenlyone]

Should I just drain the transmission fluid and change it? Audi says the fluid is lifetime, is that even possible?

[wenlyone]

A4 Centaur,

Would you share the torque specs for the bolts for the transmission house?
I also sent you a pm

thanks,
Wen

[mtroxel]

Would you share the torque specs for the bolts for the transmission house?

You owe me Wen...

[wenlyone]

Yes I do. You rock!

Would you guys recommend to change trans fluid while I’m doing this?

You owe me Wen...

[hurls]

The thread's not zombie, but the post I'm replying to kinda is

My RMS started leaking (and getting a 2187 lean at idle code), so based on yma4's great deal I pinged "my" service advisor at Audi San Diego (I had one, but he moved on to Rolls Royce dealer, so this isn't someone I have an ongoing relationship with). He ballparked the job for me at $4000!!!!! So I guess they add an extra $3430 if they've got to deal with quattro

Needless to say I'm either gonna go down the road to Pure Motorsport OR I'm just gonna put this car as a trade-in (2009 Avant, 135k miles, 105k miles since Stage II was done). Not sure it's worth 1200 bucks to fix and this DIY looks awesome, but I know my limitations.

Thanks for the great DIY / write up OP.

FWIW, Audi San Diego quoted me $570 to replace the rear main (2009 A4 2T Auto FWD). Took mine in for the 75K service lately and they noticed a slight leak from the seal. Hope this provides some perspective.

[blgilles]

Just out of curiosity, is the jack below what you used for the job?

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ack-61232.html

And I can't quite tell... which part of the transmission is the jack supporting? From one of the photos it looks like it's actually under the transmission fluid pan, is that right?

Thanks in advance!

[misterpepper]

That's the one I used. I think I used a couple of hockey pucks to keep the load off the center of the pan and to help keep the transmission a little more level when I dropped it. One downside to this jack is that you don'e have much (any?) control over the tilt of the transmission other than how you shim it to level it. The weight of the transmission helps keep the engine level and when you remove it the engine wants to tilt slightly forward, so have a friend help level the engine again as you stab the transmission back in.

[blgilles]

That's the one I used. I think I used a couple of hockey pucks to keep the load off the center of the pan and to help keep the transmission a little more level when I dropped it. One downside to this jack is that you don'e have much (any?) control over the tilt of the transmission other than how you shim it to level it. The weight of the transmission helps keep the engine level and when you remove it the engine wants to tilt slightly forward, so have a friend help level the engine again as you stab the transmission back in.

Got it; thanks!

[wenlyone]

anyone with the drive shaft stuck to the diff issue? hammered for 5 hours and it wouldn't come apart. I am thinking to use air hammer next... any advises?

[misterpepper]

I didn't remove the drive shaft from the diff, only from the transmission. I was able to move it up and out of the way enough to get the tranny out. It was a little tricky at times, but possible.

[wenlyone]

My 2011 is connected to the trans with a spline. So I have to remove I think.

[boasist]

I made nice progress on this yesterday, the guide helped me through pretty well. I've got it about an inch or so away from the engine and it won't seem to budge any further. I stuck figuring it out as I can't seem to locate the source or what is holding the transmission back.

[Theiceman]

Hey guys I have a question . I thought I saw somewhere that the lip of the seal has to be curved in towards the engine, not out to wards the transmission. I even saw a pic depicting it somewhere. There is no mention of that in this thread. what is making it more interesting is I thought I read somewhere about a soda bottle trick to get it to go on with the flange the right way …

maybe im losing it as my factory installed one is in fact folded out to wards the transmission … it sure does suck getting old so if someone could straighten me out I would appreciate it thanks.

[boasist]

Hey guys I have a question . I thought I saw somewhere that the lip of the seal has to be curved in towards the engine, not out to wards the transmission. I even saw a pic depicting it somewhere. There is no mention of that in this thread. what is making it more interesting is I thought I read somewhere about a soda bottle trick to get it to go on with the flange the right way …

maybe im losing it as my factory installed one is in fact folded out to wards the transmission … it sure does suck getting old so if someone could straighten me out I would appreciate it thanks.

I've seen that mentioned in the manuals. It's on a case by case basis. Have a look here and hopefully it helps.

https://adobe.ly/2CSiEEw

[Quattro_Buckeye]

Headed to the shop to tackle this now! Any last second pointers?!

- - - Updated - - -

Headed to the shop to tackle this now! Any last second pointers?!

[Sedrostyle]

Can you confirm this from the dead? I’m about ready to remove my trans in the 2009 A4 Quattro. And it doesn’t look like there’s going to be room to squeeze it by the driveline
I disassembled it from the trans and have almost all the torque converter bolts ready to go.
Thanks in advance

I didn't remove the drive shaft from the diff, only from the transmission. I was able to move it up and out of the way enough to get the tranny out. It was a little tricky at times, but possible.

[gwillmott]

Just did this job ... Many thanks to the OP. This was clearly my most ambitious project to date.

I did seperate the rear driveline at the coupling with the 6 bolts and heat shield. I used a cold chisel and hammer and it separated pretty easily. The center is thick rubber ... kinda like a hockey puck. So pretty hard to damage. Once that was separated the driveline dropped giving loads of clearance.

I put my transmission jack (the 800lb rated one from Harbor Freight ~$140 with coupon) under the main section near the bell housing but in front of the transmission pan. I used my floor jack on the rear of the transmission to equal out the load and provide more flexibility and maneuverability.

I will admit to moments of anxiety as I have never dropped a transmission before. But I took my time and had my 25 y/o son help in wrestling the transmission out and back into position. Helps that he's 6'3" and 210lbs.

[Sedrostyle]

Separate it from the trans only? The green puck? Or did you undo more of it.
I think once I undo the 4 mount brace bolts it will drop enough to push the puck driveline up and move it away.

Thanks for all the tips. This is a great DIY


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[gwillmott]

Nope didn't undo anything more than in original directions. The "puck" on mine was black with green gaskets. But yes pushed the rear drive line up but did need to help it seperate with a couple hits with the cold chisel and hammer. Then used a small pry bar to help slide it apart.

Good luck.

[audi4lifeB8]

Did anyone have issues getting the transmission lines back in? I've been working on this for about 2 hours now and it's just not going all the way in. Any recommendations?

[Tweak-mn]

Thanks for a great write up. Wouldn’t have tackled it otherwise.

[98A4TurboAWD]

Thanks for a great write up. Wouldn’t have tackled it otherwise.

Awesome man - good to see people are still using this! Any issue seeing the pictures?

[chable]

I did this yesterday. Thanks to the OP and everyone else that posted their experiences. The work wasn't too bad. Here are a few things that seemed notable to me.

- The flywheel can only be installed one way on the crank flange....at least this was the case on my 2012 car. There is a machined dimple on the flywheel, and three bolt holes to one side of the dimple seem to have different spacing. The easy way to make sure this goes back on correctly is to mark the flywheel and mark a corresponding area on the crank case or crank flange, then match the marks during installation. The crank should not have any reason to be rotated at this point.
- I installed the rubber piece at the starter after I re-mated the engine and transmission. I could not get it to stay in place otherwise.
- I used the iAbed rear main seal instead of the OE piece. There is a bunch of info about this in other places already. Install the new oil seal in the metal plate before installing it on the car. Doing it this way ensures the seal will basically slide right onto the crank.
- It's tough to figure out where the center of mass is with this transmission, and the front diff makes the transmission want to rotate clockwise. Multiple jacks are definitely helpful.

[BlkS5]

Thanks for such an in depth post. Do you remember how high you lifted your car. I was going to use ramps for the rear and jack the front as high as I can go. The transmission jack I bought looks like the one you used. I is 8 inches off ground and I want to make sure i have enough room to lower and move back transmission. Also, do i need an engine support brace?

[vtraudt]

Is this 2009 A4 DIY fully applicable to 2015 A5 Quattro?

[vtraudt]

How to remove the prop shaft (drive shaft to rear) from transmission?
Don't see any bolts?

[mtroxel]

I haven't done it on the B8, but I believe you end up removing the whole drive shaft. You take it off the diff, then pull it back. And there's more detail to it than what I just described. You should download all the ElsaWin .pdf's.

[Smac770]

8K through MY10 used flange shaft transmission output. 8K starting MY11 used spline shaft transmission output.

So get the workshop manuals and you'll have all the correct information for whichever config you have.

[mtroxel]

SMac I see 262,000 miles on that 2009 now. Nice. I just turned over 200,000 on mine.

[Smac770]

Ah, 200k, I remember it like it was New Years 2020. Because that's when the maintenance log says it was. Apparently spent some money on it back then. Tires, brakes, spark plugs, HPFP, N80 lineset. HPFP didn't help any; ended up replacing the injectors at 230k to fix the +fuel trims.

[mtroxel]

Outside of 2 timing chains and some control arms, the only big drama I've had was a Cat Converter @ 158K. Even doing it myself and selling my old one to a junk yard in Jersey, that was still a net $1,600 problem. The rest has all been brakes, and the usual ticky tack stuff.