Compressor, alternator, and power steering pump are all used from the 4.2 I initially used the 1.8 alternator but alignment was off and it threw the belt off. I went a different route with my cooling system but the 1.8 radiator WILL work with some modifications. I ground off the grooves of the inlet and outlet to accept a regular hose and clamp at first then decided to upgrade to a custom radiator although I never seen a difference in cooling by upgrading. The power steering lines need some splicing if I'm not mistaken but there wasn't anything difficult about it that I can recall.
The original condensor can be used but you will need either a very slim fan or you can hack your bumper reinforcement bar to fit a fan in. Currently I'm using my custom radiator from a TT, a universal condensor(because the hood latch hit on the stock condensor), two 12" fans, a universal fan switch wired to the high speed input of the stock fan relay, and a metal upper coolant pipe that I made. The A/c lines are pretty easy to fab up as long as you can solder with a propane torch. Actually my old 1.8 A4 is still rolling around with a barbed fitting and hose clamps where a high side line split four years ago so it's very possible to just cut off the crimped on collars and use hose clamps to put together your own ac lines.
Here you can see how my hood stays closed. I simply fastened a steel plate across the bottom side of the hood lock carrier. Once you cut the plastic out to fit the engine under the hood lock carrier(radiator support), your hood will not have much support unless you reinforce the bottom side of it. Also you can see how the upper hose makes an immediate right turn when it comes out of the radiator.
The lower hose comes straight out, goes up and behind the A/C compressor, then back forward and takes another 90 degree across the front of the engine. I have since built a metal pipe with all of these bends but until recently, these were all pieced together using hose, scrap 1.5" electrical conduit, and clamps.
This was my first coolant setup using P trap pipe(the kind that's under sinks(it's all I had at the time)). This never failed, it was just replaced when I got the new aluminum radiator.
Belt routing. I have since gotten rid of the idler pulley next to the alternator. The tensioner is from a 2000 A6 4.2. I had to make an aluminum spacer for it then just one bolt holds it to the A/C /P/S bracket. The belt you need is a 685k6. You could go a tad shorter but this belt works.
My exhaust is an Ebay B5 S4 dual 2.5 but if you can weld(which you will have to when you make your engine mounts), you are better off just building your own. 3 bolt header collectors from summit work fine without any gaskets although I do plan on adding doughnut gaskets the next time I'm in there because I do get a exhaust tic occasionally. 2.5" mandrel bends and some flex joints and you are set.
Here are my downpipes.
Also, I am no longer using any OEM engine mounts. I am using all custom Engine mounts and bushings.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...-isolators.asp
Because of this, I do not have a "front" snub mount. I have two engine mounts and two transmission mounts. My engine pulleys are about 1/4" from my radiator so if there was any movement, my radiator would be toast by now.
I hope this helped you and remember that this is NOT rocket science. It doesn't matter what parts you use or what the end result looks like. All that matters is that it runs, drives, and puts a smile on your face. BTW, this is my daily driver. This car sees 100 MPH almost daily, then once I'm home from work it is the family hauler. I estimate almost 30k miles has been put on this swap(my speedometer sender was melted for the first few months) and it has been pretty trouble free in relation to the swap itself. I am still in the process of adding an external oil cooler but that hasn't been a priority because this summer has been relatively mild here.
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