EPC light + Check engine

[Laro73]

Last night On the freeway EPC light came on. I stop over and shut off the engine for a few seconds.
After the light was gone and the engine seems too run normaly. This morning the engine light is on, may be there is less power but not significant. I will bring the car too my tech later.
Anybody had the same experience ???
Thanks

[RS4Brunswick]

My EPC light comes on intermittently. No power loss or hesitation. I think my cruise control doesn't engage when the EPC light is on...that's about it. No Check Engine light...for me. Hope that helps.

[jeff33702]

Get the codes pulled. For me, it was a flap position sensor. I replaced it during my carbon cleaning and it's been 100% perfect since. Not a single light for the last 4-5k miles.

[komseh]

The flap position sensor codes P2015 and P2020 can also be caused by a stuck flap shaft. Run the intake manifold flap function test hxxp://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?t=77235

[Seattle squash]

Flap positioning sensor is my vote, I have 2 brand new ones for both banks to sell you cheap if you want, pm me if so.


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[komseh]

If it's an intermittent error, I would lean more towards a temporarily stuck flap shaft. If the flap position sensors read 10% outside of the expected position at open(99.6%) or close(0%) it will throw the implausible signal code for that bank. I think if a position sensor is bad, it is going to be a permanent DTC. Carbon buildup could be inhibiting the movement of the flap shaft, or the flap shaft arms could be worn.

If you have VCDS you can log the positions for the flaps in each bank via blocks 142 and 144. It should read 0% below 3000rpm, 99.6% above 3000rpm.

[badbluers4]

Get the codes pulled. For me, it was a flap position sensor. I replaced it during my carbon cleaning and it's been 100% perfect since. Not a single light for the last 4-5k miles.

Same here.

[Laro73]

Finaly the codes are p2015-p2020, intake manifold flap position sensor bank 1 and 2.
They Where too busy this afternoon too spend a lot of time on the car but they reset everyting and i drove a few miles without any light.
If it happen again they gonna find if it's the sensors or the flaps in fault.
Carbon clean up 6000 miles ago.

Thanks for your help
( sorry with my english, second language for me)

[badbluers4]

Thanks for the update. Yeah it will probably come back again. More than likely it is the sensors, as this is common. Too bad you just did a carbon clean because the sensor at the back of the Manifold may require pulling the manifold again to get to it. Good luck

[Seattle squash]

I paid $ 170 plus shipping, and part with them for a $100 shipped (never used/installed). And I know this is the wrong place to mention this! Lol bring it! :)


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[Ravage]

Finaly the codes are p2015-p2020, intake manifold flap position sensor bank 1 and 2.
They Where too busy this afternoon too spend a lot of time on the car but they reset everyting and i drove a few miles without any light.
If it happen again they gonna find if it's the sensors or the flaps in fault.
Carbon clean up 6000 miles ago.

Thanks for your help
( sorry with my english, second language for me)

Were you ever able to resolve this? Both codes coming up would leave me to believe it's unlikely both sensors went out at the same time. Any one else have any experience with this? I'm having this issue and don't have access to the software to run the diy.

[Avus RS4]

If it's an intermittent error, I would lean more towards a temporarily stuck flap shaft. If the flap position sensors read 10% outside of the expected position at open(99.6%) or close(0%) it will throw the implausible signal code for that bank. I think if a position sensor is bad, it is going to be a permanent DTC. Carbon buildup could be inhibiting the movement of the flap shaft, or the flap shaft arms could be worn.

If you have VCDS you can log the positions for the flaps in each bank via blocks 142 and 144. It should read 0% below 3000rpm, 99.6% above 3000rpm.

Assuming that there is a temporarily stuck flap shaft and a malfunctioning the the flap position sensor, how hard is to replace the flap sensor and/or the flap shaft?
Educate me here as I want to learn more before taking it to a shop.
Also, would this involve removing the intake?
Because if that's the case I may have then do the intake carbon clean and inspect and diagnose the flap sensors.
I haven't retrieved my error codes, will do that tomorrow, but I have an EPC light and the symbol that looks like a catalytic converter turned on the dash screen

[komseh]

Assuming that there is a temporarily stuck flap shaft and a malfunctioning the the flap position sensor, how hard is to replace the flap sensor and/or the flap shaft?
Educate me here as I want to learn more before taking it to a shop.
Also, would this involve removing the intake?
Because if that's the case I may have then do the intake carbon clean and inspect and diagnose the flap sensors.
I haven't retrieved my error codes, will do that tomorrow, but I have an EPC light and the symbol that looks like a catalytic converter turned on the dash screen

The intake manifold has to be removed to access the position sensors and the flap shaft. Your flap shafts are not going to need replacement, but there may be carbon buildup preventing them from turning properly. I would definitely wait until carbon clean time because of overlapping labor.

If you have vagcom, do the test detailed here, takes 5 minutes and you will know if the flap shafts have full range of motion: http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?t=77235
I would do the test once while the car is cold and once while it's at full operating temp.

If the arms appear to be moving fully on both sides, then one or both of your sensors will probably be the issue. The DTCs pulled will tell you which bank.

[Avus RS4]

My car is cutting off at 6500rpm as if the rev limiter was set at 6500
Any ideas?

[robr4793]

My car is cutting off at 6500rpm as if the rev limiter was set at 6500
Any ideas?

Avus my car is doing this and it is due to me having removed the intake flaps completely after my carbon clean. I awaiting my appointment for a tune. Seems like u are having some sort of flap problem also

[komseh]

My car is cutting off at 6500rpm as if the rev limiter was set at 6500
Any ideas?

No idea without the DTCs.

[PetrolDave]

No idea without the DTCs.

+1

The number of possible causes (maybe approaching 100) is so large that guesswork probably won't help much.

[Avus RS4]

Avus my car is doing this and it is due to me having removed the intake flaps completely after my carbon clean. I awaiting my appointment for a tune. Seems like u are having some sort of flap problem also

Yeah, I was doing a lot of research last night, and I remember someone saying his car was also cutting out at 6500rpm, I didn't know my car was doing this, until this morning I gave it a good run and sure enough, it cut out right at 6500rpm.
No doubt this is related to the flap sensor, EPC, flaps and what have you committee.
The only thing I need to double check before taking my car to shop is making sure I have no vacuum leak, I was working underneath the car this past weekend doing oil changes and removing a busted under tray that a vacuum line coming off it's likely, and also that the white plastic flaps on the front of the IM are not broken.
Also, need to pull the codes...

[Ravage]

Mine ended up being a broken arm. The previous owner had gone through this and elected to JB weld the arm back together as I"ve read some recommend. Such a half ass way to resolve. Wasn't able to see where it had split until the manifold was removed. I replaced the arms with the ones from 034. The DIY was great step by step. No difficult at all. Did a carbon clean put it all back together and it's all good. I bought two sensors that I ended up not replacing for sale if anyone needs them.

[Avus RS4]

Avus my car is doing this and it is due to me having removed the intake flaps completely after my carbon clean. I awaiting my appointment for a tune. Seems like u are having some sort of flap problem also

the error codes went away and the car is running great again, so I don't know what the deal is really.
I retrieved the code this afternoon and this is what it showed:
P2020 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Bank 2

Is that the sensor underneath the IM?

[RAudi Driver]

My car did this a few times when it was brand new. Just shut off the engine and restart.

It hasn't done it in 6+ years.

[robr4793]

I recently just removed the flaps and intake rods and the plastic linkage that breaks. I plug the wholes up with plugs. I received the same codes but it is because I removed the flaps willingly. There will be no getting stuck in the future.

[Seattle squash]

I recently just removed the flaps and intake rods and the plastic linkage that breaks. I plug the wholes up with plugs. I received the same codes but it is because I removed the flaps willingly. There will be no getting stuck in the future.

And now you will code out the bulb/check right?


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[SnoozEviL]

i'm looking for spare parts for this matter as well. unfortunately, i also have another problem that rpm swing up and down while driving low speed and sometimes engine just shut down. is that relevant with flap issue?

[Avus RS4]

Well, my car has the EPC error code now permanent.
It also has that engine light that looks like a catalytic converter
So, I'm going to take my car to the shop to take care of that.
I want some suggestions as to what to do while the car has the intake manifold removed:
-Replace flap position sensors
-Do the carbon clean
-What else should I do at least as a preventive maintenance while the car is under the knife?

Edit: My car is running rough and it's down on power.
The idle dropped under its normal operating range and it sounds as it if the exhaust valves were open almost as if it had a performance cam.

[NY07RS4]

Well, my car has the EPC error code now permanent.
It also has that engine light that looks like a catalytic converter
So, I'm going to take my car to the shop to take care of that.
I want some suggestions as to what to do while the car has the intake manifold removed:
-Replace flap position sensors
-Do the carbon clean
-What else should I do at least as a preventive maintenance while the car is under the knife?

Edit: My car is running rough and it's down on power.
The idle dropped under its normal operating range and it sounds as it if the exhaust valves were open almost as if it had a performance cam.

How many miles on your car currently?

JHM's intake spacers are a nice addition.
Serp belt/tensioner depending on your miles and or last replacement
Plugs
Coil packs - again, depending on mileage etc.
All filter - oil/air/cabin/fuel

[Avus RS4]

How many miles on your car currently?

JHM's intake spacers are a nice addition.
Serp belt/tensioner depending on your miles and or last replacement
Plugs
Coil packs - again, depending on mileage etc.
All filter - oil/air/cabin/fuel

58k miles
I did the plugs, air filter and fuel filter in October

I'm thinking about doing the coil packs now that you mentioned it.
Doing the Serpentine belt/tensioner is a nice peace of mind.

Any relevant gains in doing the JHM's intake spacers?

Thanks. That's awesome.

[Badtoyz]

the intake spacers don't add power... what they do is provide insulation to stop the intake from getting heat soaked. I have them and its quite noticeable temp wise. after a long drive try touching your intake it will be burning hot to the touch. with spacers u can put your hand on and leave it there. its quite a big difference in temperature. cooler denser air = more power. there are threads on AR with more info but that's the basic explanation.

[DOCEVG]

58k miles
I did the plugs, air filter and fuel filter in October

I'm thinking about doing the coil packs now that you mentioned it.
Doing the Serpentine belt/tensioner is a nice peace of mind.

Any relevant gains in doing the JHM's intake spacers?

Thanks. That's awesome.

What shop will you have do the work?

[Avus RS4]

What shop will you have do the work?

Good question.
I was thinking Apikol since is here in Boulder and it's the closest to me.
There are places like Berg Performance and 3ZERO3 Motorsports that have been highly recommended.
Do you have one to recommend, Davis?

[DOCEVG]

I hear great things about Berg. I've had both Peak Eurosports and Avalon do work on my RS4, and have been happy with both.
I've heard 3Zero3 has gone downhill some, but thats hearsay and your sources might be better than mine.
Lemme know how it turns out, especially if you do the intake spacers. I've been really happy with the other JHM mods on my car. Best news of the month so far is I got the plate renewal card from the DMV which said my car "Passed Roadside Emissions" which means I can put off worrying about failing emissions based on the JHM exhaust for another 2 years. Pretty sure the roadside emissions sniffer mistook my stinky car for another.

[Avus RS4]

I hear great things about Berg. I've had both Peak Eurosports and Avalon do work on my RS4, and have been happy with both.
I've heard 3Zero3 has gone downhill some, but thats hearsay and your sources might be better than mine.
Lemme know how it turns out, especially if you do the intake spacers. I've been really happy with the other JHM mods on my car. Best news of the month so far is I got the plate renewal card from the DMV which said my car "Passed Roadside Emissions" which means I can put off worrying about failing emissions based on the JHM exhaust for another 2 years. Pretty sure the roadside emissions sniffer mistook my stinky car for another.

I have out people outside 3Zero3 that know people in there and were willing to give their names as refences if I decided to take my car to them
Berg is also good I hear. The guy that owned my RS4 before me took the car to the guys at Apikol, so I guess they're familiar with my car

Pretty sure the roadside emissions sniffer mistook my stinky car for another.

Hahaha!!!

[importraceram]

Bringing up an old thread, I am in this very same scenario myself. Had an Audi tech do a quick scan (didn't have an official appointment). His quick answer was get a new fuel pressure sensor. So today I put a new one in, started to car up, felt good for 2 gears, and then went to shit again sputtering ~3k rpm. Let the car sit for a few hours, got back in the car tonight, fired it up, no check engine but EPC was still on. Car drove great (normal) for 5 mins then the check engine came back on and car reverted back to a sputtering Prius. I will check the code tomorrow am.

Any advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[your daddy]

Bringing up an old thread, I am in this very same scenario myself. Had an Audi tech do a quick scan (didn't have an official appointment). His quick answer was get a new fuel pressure sensor. So today I put a new one in, started to car up, felt good for 2 gears, and then went to shit again sputtering ~3k rpm. Let the car sit for a few hours, got back in the car tonight, fired it up, no check engine but EPC was still on. Car drove great (normal) for 5 mins then the check engine came back on and car reverted back to a sputtering Prius. I will check the code tomorrow am.

Any advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

call, and schedule an appointment with me. Lets figure it out! (worked on that car for years before you bought it)