Control Arm Bushings

[piotrowr]

When I had my car in at an indy shop for service they told me my control arm bushings are starting to go bad. They said not urgent but will need to replace the control arms soon at a cost of about $700 for parts and labor. They did point out that at 45K miles this does seem premature. It's a 2010 so am curious if it had the upgraded control arms with harder bushings already or will dealer address with TSB?

[034Motorsport]

When I had my car in at an indy shop for service they told me my control arm bushings are starting to go bad. They said not urgent but will need to replace the control arms soon at a cost of about $700 for parts and labor. They did point out that at 45K miles this does seem premature. It's a 2010 so am curious if it had the upgraded control arms with harder bushings already or will dealer address with TSB?

Late-style lower control arms have a 75mm bushing. If you have those, then you have updated factory control arms. If your car still has early-style 65mm bushing lower control arms, I'd recommend trying to get the arms covered by the TSB. The year split for old vs. new isn't clear-cut IIRC, but you should be able to call a dealer with your VIN and figure out what it came with.

We've seen the uppers start to go bad around 50,000 miles, but I don't believe there is a TSB or update for those. Hope that helps!

- Laszlo

[piotrowr]

Good information!

[piotrowr]

Dealer said they need to see the part numbers, can't pull by VIN. So I don't have a lift but was able to pull some #'s off the upper control arms on both sides and can also see both upper bushings are cracked. I could not get under to get anything off the lower ones. The uppers both had CZ WD3 TRW and 35881 within the grid (not sure what that's called). The right has a small number 64166 while the left has 6310R, both etched closest to the cracked bushings. Dealer said their parts dept not familiar with those numbers so will likely be taking it in. Do these numbers sound like part numbers to anyone?

[TDIaholic]

Those are not the correct numbers, or someone has already replaced the control arms with TRW aftermarket ones. The Audi OEM numbers start 8K0 or 8K1 for the B8, and normally consist of 9 numbers + letter for revision, ie. 8K0 999 999 A.

However, please keep in mind that it's normal to see stress marks on the upper control arm bushings when the car is lifted. The control arms are installed so that they are either tightened to a pre-loaded position to simulate the car standing on its wheels, or tightened with the car on its wheels. Thus when the car is lifted, the control arms move away from their set position, the bushings twist and you can see small stretch marks on the bushings. Unless the bushings are cracked there is no need to replace them.

[piotrowr]

Thanks but as I stated, the car is not lifted, just turned the wheels left and right so I can see the arms and bushings. I am only owner, car off dealer lot in 2010 so no way those are aftermarket! The bushings are cracked on both side, more so on the right. They appear to still be serving their purpose but I was told at low speeds turn in a parking lot you can sometime tell somethings off. I can't tell yet because they are only cracked but we'll see down the road. I'm going to take a few pics and post.

[NJRoadFan]

According to info from 2010, Audi switched to the newer style in cars built November 2009 and later. The dealer should be able to see the VIN split for the part in ETKA.

[piotrowr]

They claim they can't, need to see part # on parts so I tried best I could w/o a lift to send some #'s off the top arms but it seems the numbers I'm seeing are not related to the part numbers described above. I'll drop it by the dealer to take a look due to P0299 code that came up intermittently and has not come back.

[TDIaholic]

Try removing the black plastic cover on the suspension tower in the engine bay and see if you can get a better look at the upper control arms from there.

[JBAeroEngineer]

I noticed this problem as well on my 2010. 55,000 miles. Pictures of the passenger side and driver side are below. Dealer wouldn't replace them and I'm currently talking with AoA on why they are "in spec".

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byk...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byk...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byk...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byk...ew?usp=sharing

[Dzhedaj]

You don't have to replace the whole control arm if the bushings go wrong. You can just get the bushings changed to new ones at a shop which has a press and knows what they're doing. Upgraded more durable aftermarket bushings are available from companies like Meyle. Cost like 20-30€ each.

[piotrowr]

I noticed this problem as well on my 2010. 55,000 miles. Pictures of the passenger side and driver side are below. Dealer wouldn't replace them and I'm currently talking with AoA on why they are "in spec".

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byk...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byk...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byk...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byk...ew?usp=sharing

That's exactly how mine look at 46K miles.

[piotrowr]

You don't have to replace the whole control arm if the bushings go wrong. You can just get the bushings changed to new ones at a shop which has a press and knows what they're doing. Upgraded more durable aftermarket bushings are available from companies like Meyle. Cost like 20-30€ each.

The shop I took it to said they need to replace both the upper and lower control arms just to address the bushings. If that's not correct then I'd be more than happy to buy replacement bushings and have another shop do it. Just don't know how to find a shop that would know how. It sounds like it's much easier just to replace everything...

[b6Hate4]

I ordered my controls arms for $180 for the set of 4 UCA from FCP euro.


Took under 30 minutes to install. Its an incredibly easy DIY...even easier than oil change. Literally 3 bolts to loosen and your done.

[blbroo]

I am seeing that you can buy new replacement control arms for less than $50 each online. I checked rockauto. $700 for this seems insane. I'd buy the parts and take it to an indy shop, if I wasn't able to do it myself.

[b6Hate4]

If one simply jacks the car up and just Looks at it, it requires 2 open end wrenches and a can of penetrating lube. Paying anything to have it done is idiotic. Id make a diy right now if i could move from this couch.

[blbroo]

If one simply jacks the car up and just Looks at it, it requires 2 open end wrenches and a can of penetrating lube. Paying anything to have it done is idiotic. Id make a diy right now if i could move from this couch.

Challenge:

Write one using only pictures from the internet and your computers drawing program.

[b6Hate4]

I took a few pictures while I did mine to possibly make my own DIY, but honestly figured with the lack of b8 wrenchin' going on it would fall on deaf ears. I'll throw one together tonight if not tomorrow.

[jfo]

You can get 4 upper bushings for about $40-50 total. If you have a convenient shop to press them in and have another vehicle to drive there, you could probably get it done for another $50 or $100 all in. If this doesn't work then you can just buy the new arms for about $200 from a number of suppliers.

[JBAeroEngineer]

I took a few pictures while I did mine to possibly make my own DIY, but honestly figured with the lack of b8 wrenchin' going on it would fall on deaf ears. I'll throw one together tonight if not tomorrow.

would be appreciated

[piotrowr]

You can get 4 upper bushings for about $40-50 total. If you have a convenient shop to press them in and have another vehicle to drive there, you could probably get it done for another $50 or $100 all in. If this doesn't work then you can just buy the new arms for about $200 from a number of suppliers.

Do you have a link to where I can find just the bushings?

[jfo]

Do you have a link to where I can find just the bushings?

Everyone carry's them...Rock Auto, FCP Euro, ECS, etc. It's item 5 in this diagram. Google the part number for other choices...

http://www.audiusaparts.com/auto-par...omponents-scat

[piotrowr]

Everyone carry's them...Rock Auto, FCP Euro, ECS, etc. It's item 5 in this diagram. Google the part number for other choices...

http://www.audiusaparts.com/auto-par...omponents-scat

thanks. Do you recommend a brand that's improved over the OEM bushings so that they last longer? One of the users above said Meyle?

[b6Hate4]

I had understood that the bushing were an absoloute PITA to service, or are they not that bad?

[jfo]

thanks. Do you recommend a brand that's improved over the OEM bushings so that they last longer? One of the users above said Meyle?

I have no experience with most of these, but would choose Lemforder I think. It's part of the large German ZF organization, who also make our auto tranny. It's hard to say who is making the OEM bushings.

[jfo]

I had understood that the bushing were an absoloute PITA to service, or are they not that bad?

Only if you try a DIY approach to pressing them. If you take them to a shop with a proper press it's no different than putting in new arms.

[van462]

I replaced the bushing by themselves. The parts ran about $70(Lemfordes). I had taken photos and was building a DIY, until I ran across a problem that put the job outside the DIY level. I used a bushing press from Autozone along with their "honda" adapters. I figured too many tools were better than too few. No press adapters fit our bushing size to press it out. If you press by just the middle it just tears and then you still have to press or cut the outer shell out. I took a socket I had and ground it down to match the bushing diameter. If you can find complete arms for a good price you can just lift the car lift swap them out and likely be done n 25 minutes. You can even leave the tire on if you want (actually helps with leverage a bit). If you can find arms at a good price that is totally the way to go. Another bonus to changing the entire arm is you run into issues you have servicable parts on hand. Swapping bushing usually means if something goes bad, you are down until new parts arrive.

[jfo]

I would do this also unless I had a suitable shop with the right gear close at hand to press them. I wouldn't try doing it myself.

[Fburg A4]

Nm

[JBAeroEngineer]

Audi isn't going to cover the rubber cracks in my bushings, they're calling it normal wear.

Assuming this is what I'm going to need from upper/lower fronts:

2 x LEMFORDER 3538101 #8K0407182B
2 x LEMFORDER 2712601 #4E0407181B
4 x LEMFORDER 3537801 #8K0407515

What kind of shop time is involved with pressing bushing versus replacing the whole arm? The whole arm is still under CPO until the bushing wear causes otherwise...

Arms for my 2010 VIN:

Uppers
8k0407505A
8k0407506A
8k0407509B
8k0407510A

Lowers
8k0407551D
8k0407552D
8k0407693S
8k0407694S

Though I can't find some of them...

[FCPEuro]

Let me know if there's anything I can help with?

All our parts come backed with a lifetime warranty that keeps you covered. The link below will go into more detail about our warranty.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee

Feel free to email me directly - [email protected]

Best Regards
Dave

[Fburg A4]

Do you have a second vehicle? Might be worth it to you cost wise if you can simply bring the control arms and new bushings for a shop to press them out and install. Should save on labor time.
Or if you have a buddy with a press it could be done for free (if they are a decent friend).

[JBAeroEngineer]

Do you have a second vehicle? Might be worth it to you cost wise if you can simply bring the control arms and new bushings for a shop to press them out and install. Should save on labor time.
Or if you have a buddy with a press it could be done for free (if they are a decent friend).

negative to both.
I took it over to Audi Arlington this morning, wasn't too satisfied with Audi Hunt Valley since I'm living by JHU now.

[NoUDont]

I ordered my controls arms for $180 for the set of 4 UCA from FCP euro.


Took under 30 minutes to install. Its an incredibly easy DIY...even easier than oil change. Literally 3 bolts to loosen and your done.

i have an '09 B* that has had the issue looking back at it since day one. dealer always gave me the run around and when they would do the road force balancing it always came back "normal" to them. I am now out of my cpo and cant take it anymore. what u describe above would solve my issue? (wheel vibration between late 60's mph to mid 70's?)

Thanks

[piotrowr]

Just had oil change and my upper control arm bushings on both left and right front are bad. Need to replace control arms. Can anyone point me to the part numbers so I can purchase online and have shop install? They say both upper/lower need to be replaced together?

[avantagg]

Just had oil change and my upper control arm bushings on both left and right front are bad. Need to replace control arms. Can anyone point me to the part numbers so I can purchase online and have shop install? They say both upper/lower need to be replaced together?

I just had my uppers replaced after my suspension install. Try FCP euro: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...5-b8caupperkt1

[piotrowr]

Thanks, these are just the uppers. Do I need to replace the lowers if they are fine? They are saying to replace upper and lower as a set?

[Dub_prime]

Thanks, these are just the uppers. Do I need to replace the lowers if they are fine? They are saying to replace upper and lower as a set?

Be very careful with the package pricing they have, the meyle HD packages for the arms were about $20 more for the lowers and almost $50 for the uppers. Selecting the individual arms made a huge difference because some of them were on sale.

Sorry, didn't answer your question initially, I would personally replace them all at once, save on have to pay more labor later to tear most of it back down.

[S4'ed]

Only the uppers die prematurely (40 to 60 K miles), the lower bushings will have a normal typical lifespan of 100K to 150K miles

[JBAeroEngineer]

my uppers just separated.
64k