Oil Cooler/Oil Filter Housing Gaskets

[AudiKilla]

Is the URO oil filter housing assembly a sufficient replacement? or should we get OEM part?

Yes, get one from RockAuto it's pretty cheap. I replaced mine several months ago and don't lose any oil now.

[aviator79]

...
Noticed inserts for housing bolts were not all flush where meets block like oem so you need to be sure not to over tighten as you wont get a solid stop like oem.

...

The housing seems to be working great.
I do regret not tightening down the housing more. I posted how those inserts were not flush with block but later realized the bolt heads are seated ontop of the inserts and should pull the inserts flush with block assuming they are not too short.
Wish i had measured or tested with a plate and nut before installing.

If anyone has one maybe you can check out. If insert is not flush with housing at face that mounts to block is there a lip on the other side where inser sticks out slightly farther than housing. So assuming insert is press fit, bolt should pull it snug to block. Im feel this is probably the case...

[aviator79]

PN:
06F115397J
I paid $92 to get same day from eeuroparts which is 10min from my house.
$83 at ECS and like $84 shipped at rockauto.

[dalmation53]

I got mine for $46 OEM on ebay haha.

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[2006b7a4]

Should I do this at the same time I clean my intake valves? In other words, is it easier to get at with the intake manifold off.

[b7a408]

Looking to do this end of November. Which triple square bits will I need? Maybe I should just get this set.

https://imgur.com/hZLn5jy

Looks like the vacuum pump has started to leak also

https://imgur.com/0LRqeNS

[rbjeepthing]

I believe the earlier findings are correct as in the defect with the factory housings. Since the sleeves don't have a shoulder on them from the factory over time or possibly with too much torque they are pulled flush with the housing not allowing the housing to sit against the block with the sufficient force required to seal. The aftermarket housings have shoulders on the sleeves that prevent this from happening and as long as you torque them to the appropriate specs I feel it should seal correctly and not have any issues. Likely tackling my own next week so will keep you posted.

[newa42me]

Okay just did this... Took me about 8 hours, along with oil change, oil return gasket and coolant replacement. BTW I am pretty novice, only ever done 2-3 oil changes, VC gasket, cam follower previously. This was probably the most intensive work I've done. Def learned alot tho.

Biggest stumble was the rubber hoses had fused to the metal ends of the coolant pipe, most of the time was spent on this lol. Another issue was that the knob for the coolant drain is at such a weird angle and position I couldn't get a good grip on it, had to remove intercooler hose and stick some pliers up there. Also I almost forgot to remove the oil sensor from the oid housing onto the new one!

This turned out to be a fairly messy job, coolant and oil seemed to come out of every orifice that I exposed, but hopefully it deals with my leaks. I was losing about half a litre every 1200km and have a ton of stains in my driveway.

P.S. don't forget to plug your coolant sensor back in!

[DownhillA4]

@rbjeepthing did you do your install? How did it go?

For those that have bought the aftermarket $80 Oil Filter Housing unit # 06F115397J. ECS and EuropaParts say, "This is the full assembly with gaskets and filter included". Does that mean we don't need to buy the extra Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Housing Gasket which are Part #06D117070 & #06F115441

@charles.waite 'cause you are B7 wealth of knowledge! :)

Thanks.

[a4lownslow]

@rbjeepthing did you do your install? How did it go?

For those that have bought the aftermarket $80 Oil Filter Housing unit # 06F115397J. ECS and EuropaParts say, "This is the full assembly with gaskets and filter included". Does that mean we don't need to buy the extra Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Housing Gasket which are Part #06D117070 & #06F115441

@charles.waite 'cause you are B7 wealth of knowledge! :)

Thanks.

Both gaskets are included, as well as a new filter. All you need to buy is the housing.


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[DownhillA4]

Both gaskets are included, as well as a new filter. All you need to buy is the housing.


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Thank you @a4lownslow, Any tips you have different / make life easier than the DIY posted here? Plan on tackling this job later this week after the part arrives.

[rbjeepthing]

@rbjeepthing did you do your install? How did it go?

For those that have bought the aftermarket $80 Oil Filter Housing unit # 06F115397J. ECS and EuropaParts say, "This is the full assembly with gaskets and filter included". Does that mean we don't need to buy the extra Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Housing Gasket which are Part #06D117070 & #06F115441

@charles.waite 'cause you are B7 wealth of knowledge! :)

Thanks.

Yup did mine last week, no major issues other then the upper coolant hose was a pita to get off. Just take your time and follow this DIY and you shouldnt have any issues.

Gaskets were included with mine along with a new filter.

[Buck1981]

So after reading this very thorough thread and watching the YouTube video I decided to tackle this job. It was not difficult at all and took me about 5-6 hours with lots of breaks and changing out headlights and looking for a boost leak in between actually changing out the housing. I wanted to add to the posting the things I figured out from doing this to save time. I did not have to drain either the oil or coolant to do this or remove the throttle body. I placed a 7 quart pan that you can get at any walmart for $3.00 under the area of the housing and the cooler. In total only about a 1/4 gallon total of coolant and oil came out from the area. I also did not have to disconnect the hoses from the (2) hard coolant lines above the housing. I did undo both the brackets for the hard coolant line and the bracket for the two connectors on top (figure 8-10) on the original DIY. On the wire loom I disconnected everything in the DIY except the alternator power line mainly because I forgot and realized I was fine with it there. I used several zip ties together to hold the loom out of the way. I tied it to the pipe on the last picture in figure 10 on the DIY. This gave me enough room to remove the bolts on the oil cooler and oil filter housing. I did have a cheap borescope to find the bolts, but a headlamp and one of those small telescoping mirrors you can get at harbor freight worked just as well as the scope. Also I figured out my headlamp was worth it's weight in gold working on this so if you don't have one they're really cheap and help a lot when working on things in tight places when you don't have a 3rd hand to hold a flashlight.

Once I unbolted the oil cooler I pulled it away from the oil filter housing and let the coolant and oil come out until it stopped. The oil filling cap and expansion tank caps were left on and after a few minutes everything stopped draining. I positioned the oil cooler in the engine bay facing up so whatever little coolant left would stay in it. If you don't squeeze or bump and of the coolant lines coolant will stop coming out eventually.

After the coolant and oil stopped I removed the PCV hose and used a 1/4" socket wrench with a 10mm deep socket to remove the oil filter housing bolts. I got the housing loose from the block and to maneuver it out I have to pull on the (2) hard coolant pipes to give just enough space to get it out. It wasn't easy, but not hard to do at all just take your time and be patient. You can get close to an inch of clearance from pulling on the pipes, but not with a lot of pressure. One thing that I did not see on the DIY is that might just be specific to my car is that there was a ground wire connect from the oil filter housing pressure sensor to the block. I felt a little resistance when pulling the housing away from the block and saw the wire it was about 7 inches long. So I removed the bolt and pulled it on out.

After cleaning the block mounting surface off and the oil cooler surface I applied assembly lube to the new gaskets on both sides and reinstalled them on the housing. Putting it in took a little patience and not pulling on the hard pipes too much, but it went in in about a minute. Installed the oil cooler and everything else I took out or undid. I did the oil change after install just in case some coolant got into the block, but none of it got into the oil when I drained it. That took care of any oil I lost and I added about 1.5 liters of the correct coolant water 50/50 mix while the car was on, 1/2 the 1.5 liters of coolant 1st and the rest when the car got up to temp and that took care of the air in the lines. I drove it about 600 miles over the next 2 days after I finished and no leaks or issues. One thing to point out is that some of the assembly lube I used got on the dipstick after running car for a few minutes, which i though might be coolant in the system and kinda scared me for a second. It didn't look like oil and water together so I let it get up to temperature and checked again and it was gone and the oil looked fine. So if you wanted to eliminate that possibility from happening maybe just use some motor oil instead of assembly lube.

The DIY was great and this was not too difficult to do at all, just a little messy, but I laid out painters plastic and it kept the mess in line. I did find out the last mechanic that worked on my car that did the thermostat stripped out the same triple square bolt that KAZ02A4 had to cut out in his car so that part of the DIY was pretty identical to his, a dremel and a flat head made short work of that bolt and I was able to replace them with two bolts I had laying around that had the same threads as them.

[hvcceducator]

can someone tell me the torque specs for the bolts on the OFH?

[mtroxel]

Note these are all in Newton Meters.

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

Just a heads up... getting a lot of customers who purchased just the gaskets last year purchasing the entire assembly due to it leaking again. Sold 3 today alone.

[mtroxel]

Just a heads up... getting a lot of customers who purchased just the gaskets last year purchasing the entire assembly due to it leaking again. Sold 3 today alone.

Seems to be the trend. People hope its just the gasket.

1. Then you get the housing off and see that some of the plastic that holds the gasket in place has crumbled.
2. You hope it doesn't really matter.
3. 6 months later you buy a new gasket and housing and do it all over again.

[DC5]

Seems to be the trend. People hope its just the gasket.

1. Then you get the housing off and see that some of the plastic that holds the gasket in place has crumbled.
2. You hope it doesn't really matter.
3. 6 months later you buy a new gasket and housing and do it all over again.

Yep, that’d be me few months & now looking to buy the housing and doing the job all over. Debating on getting genuine Audi or aftermarket. Anyone have any issues with the aftermarket? Appreciate any feedback...don’t want to be taking that apart again in the near future.


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[Avant4me]

Im pretty sure i have the uro one from ecs. Installed it like sub 300 miles ago..so far it works lol

[DC5]

Im pretty sure i have the uro one from ecs. Installed it like sub 300 miles ago..so far it works lol

Thanks...leaning towards that.

[Avant4me]

Just make sure you clean any old gasket material off the oil cooler and block really well is my advice. I had just a tiny bit around the coolant port of my oil cooler which caused a slight leak at driving pressure. Had to take it all apart clean it and put it back together

[Theiceman]

just in the middle of doing this . i discovered you don't have to mess with the lower cooling hard pipe at all .. i did the top cooler bolts using a 4mm hex key and there was lots of room with the "dropping bracket" removed. the reason i did not want to disturb the lower pipe is because loosening it off disturbs the orings at the stat end. Decided to leave it in place and everything came out fine.

i decided on the OE housing because too many recent stories of aftermarket ones leaking.

just waiting for it to show up.

[DC5]

just in the middle of doing this . i discovered you don't have to mess with the lower cooling hard pipe at all .. i did the top cooler bolts using a 4mm hex key and there was lots of room with the "dropping bracket" removed. the reason i did not want to disturb the lower pipe is because loosening it off disturbs the orings at the stat end. Decided to leave it in place and everything came out fine.

i decided on the OE housing because too many recent stories of aftermarket ones leaking.

just waiting for it to show up.

Crap Theiceman now you have me reconsidering


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[Theiceman]

Crap Theiceman now you have me reconsidering


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which part ? the aftermarket housing ? I mean its a crap shoot it will likely be fine . If it were still my play car i would have gone aftermarket as I have other cars . but I gave the car to my son and he is now struggling to get to work while his car is down. I don't want to take the chance of it being down again so I went with factory part. it was 250 CAD so to me it was worth it. at 300K km it will never have to be done again.

[Sylvania A4]

I picked up an OEM housing on eBay for ~$160. More than the URO, but less than any other OEM I could find. To me, it's one of those parts that isn't worth the risk of aftermarket expanded tolerances.

[DC5]

Ya just made up my mind to get the OE from FCP...$214 & lifetime guarantee, worth it for just the piece of mind. Thanks guys!


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[aviator79]

I picked up an OEM housing on eBay for ~$160. More than the URO, but less than any other OEM I could find. To me, it's one of those parts that isn't worth the risk of aftermarket expanded tolerances.

Used? they warp u know. why we all have to replace. new? latest rev?

Im pretty sure i have the uro one from ecs. Installed it like sub 300 miles ago..so far it works lol

Mine had been fine. Have head off and went to check housing and the only bolt you can access easy (front top) was loose. Tried to tighten the front lower and decided to pull it all off.

Found that all the cooler bolts are not tight enough as in removed by hand almost. IDK what happened but taking it all off again. Aluminum block to plastic housing to metal cooler seems to lead to issues unless torqued right but even then IDK. Need bolts that shrink over time.

Either way, make sure you tighten bolts good and use thread locker. Possible things will still need to be retightented after a bit due to the plastic expanding and contracting, causing bolts to be loose. Never ending project this car is.

Or just deal with the leaks. fuk it.

edit,
after removing cooler lower rear bolt at least 360* loose.
Removing all and adding locktite. Not sure if just did not tighten enough when installing or if they backed out, probably both. I think I mentioned a while back how the inserts where not fully seated and I think that I did not tighten them enough when I installed. Woops.

[Theiceman]

Used? they warp u know. why we all have to replace. new? latest rev?



Mine had been fine. Have head off and went to check housing and the only bolt you can access easy (front top) was loose. Tried to tighten the front lower and decided to pull it all off.

Found that all the cooler bolts are not tight enough as in removed by hand almost. IDK what happened but taking it all off again. Aluminum block to plastic housing to metal cooler seems to lead to issues unless torqued right but even then IDK. Need bolts that shrink over time.

Either way, make sure you tighten bolts good and use thread locker. Possible things will still need to be retightented after a bit due to the plastic expanding and contracting, causing bolts to be loose. Never ending project this car is.

Or just deal with the leaks. fuk it.

edit,
after removing cooler lower rear bolt at least 360* loose.
Removing all and adding locktite. Not sure if just did not tighten enough when installing or if they backed out, probably both. I think I mentioned a while back how the inserts where not fully seated and I think that I did not tighten them enough when I installed. Woops.

yeah thread locker is pretty good . it locks up where you leave it .. so id say you needed a little more elbow grease or a better torque wrench :)

[Jeevan]

I am unable to see these photo bucket pics

[r2zt]

I am unable to see these photo bucket pics

You need to install "Photobucket Hotlink Fix" extension for Chrome

[Jeevan]

Anyone who thinks oil change is not necessary after doing this swap, I had about 1 quart of coolant seeping from coolant passage that goes to oil cooler in the block at the top to middle oil passage after removing oil filter housing. This is because of very very sligh inclination of the garage and subtle movements caused by me leaning on the car.


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[rcamacho]

Anyone have the torque specs for housing to block and cooler to housing?

[mtroxel]