Schrubbe8210's B5 A4 track car project!

[Schrubbe8210]

My bad, just checked. They are 245/40 R18's on 18x8.5 ET45. I am running an 8mm spacer I think. I just want a little more flare up front just in case the nose dips.

[Schrubbe8210]

Well I went out and ran it on the track on thursday. It ran well, and i learned a few things.

1. I should always replace my spark plugs before the track, I was getting some misfiring that pegged my afr gauge to the rich side under boost. ran really well up to about 12 psi, then started getting funny. didnt do it on the dyno a few weeks ago though, so the only thing I can think of is the plugs went to shit. I run the ngk bkr7e's that everyone says are great. I put in a set of bosch f6dtc's now, and we will see if they are better.

2. I cannot keep the exhaust manifold tight to the turbo for the life of me. Next thing I am trying is ARP hardware that hopefully is stronger and doesnt stretch, but the turbo loosened up from the manifold by the end of the day, and i was able to hand unthread the studs.

3. I need fender flares, rubbed the side of the slicks a bit when I was cornering hard.

But most importantly, I drove it home, and had some fun. oil temps never got above 210, and water stayed under 200, and everything else held up well. If anyone has pointers on the above problems, let me know. I am ready to jb weld the damn studs in the manifold. if new hardware doesnt work, I am just gonna buy a v-banded setup and be done with this crap.

[MetalMan]

2. I cannot keep the exhaust manifold tight to the turbo for the life of me. Next thing I am trying is ARP hardware that hopefully is stronger and doesnt stretch, but the turbo loosened up from the manifold by the end of the day, and i was able to hand unthread the studs.

Historically this has been a pretty major problem for FrankenTurbo owners, obviously this is different compared to your setup but same application nonetheless.

One option is a bolt locking tab - in your case it might be 4x bolt locking tabs that get bent to hold the nut in place and prevent it from spinning.

Another option is safety wire - this may be more difficult with your bottom-mount turbo setup, but it's a sure way to solve the problem. Here is how it looks on my FrankenTurbo setup:

[Schrubbe8210]

Yeah, that looks like it would work, problem is, access is gonna be a royal bitch, and i don't know if I can get bolts to fit yet, I am taking it to my local race shop to tell them to handle it. I am sure they know how to address it, and probably have much better tools for this sort of thing than I do. If i could get bolts under there, the tabs or wires would work great. It also bears mentioning that it didn't loosen until I really beat on it. I have been driving the car around for a month or so without problems, and thought this headache was gone.

Thanks for the info!

[Believer]

Historically this has been a pretty major problem for FrankenTurbo owners, obviously this is different compared to your setup but same application nonetheless.

One option is a bolt locking tab - in your case it might be 4x bolt locking tabs that get bent to hold the nut in place and prevent it from spinning.

Another option is safety wire - this may be more difficult with your bottom-mount turbo setup, but it's a sure way to solve the problem. Here is how it looks on my FrankenTurbo setup:

Where'd you obtain these bolts Travis? Mine loosened up on me just today

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[Schrubbe8210]

Just found my bolt loosening solution. A product called Resbond. High temp threadlocker, good to 2300 degrees. Ordered a bottle from mcmaster carf with some new locknuts, and gonna tighten this bitch up once and for all this weekend. IE and 034 confirmed that stuff is the shit and will keep my exhaust bolts tight. Resbond 907ts made by cotronics.

Ill update once i heat it up again.

[Avant Nate]

I had pretty good luck with nord-lock washers. But I suggest 10.9 with them, the 12.9 was too hard.

[demonmk2]

Just found my bolt loosening solution. A product called Resbond. High temp threadlocker, good to 2300 degrees. Ordered a bottle from mcmaster carf with some new locknuts, and gonna tighten this bitch up once and for all this weekend. IE and 034 confirmed that stuff is the shit and will keep my exhaust bolts tight. Resbond 907ts made by cotronics.

Ill update once i heat it up again.

how would you get them loose if needed?

[Dan[FN]6262]

That stuff is the bees knees, I've used it myself on turbo, wastegate, and manifold bolts/studs that would constantly loosen up after a few heat cycles.

[Dan[FN]6262]

how would you get them loose if needed?

put down your pursue while using the ratchet.

[Believer]

Just found my bolt loosening solution. A product called Resbond. High temp threadlocker, good to 2300 degrees. Ordered a bottle from mcmaster carf with some new locknuts, and gonna tighten this bitch up once and for all this weekend. IE and 034 confirmed that stuff is the shit and will keep my exhaust bolts tight. Resbond 907ts made by cotronics.

Ill update once i heat it up again.

I tried searching on McMaster Carrs site for Resbond, 907ts, but nothing was returned. I navigated to their high-temp thread locker, but all i see is stuff that is $45 a bottle. Is this what you purhcased?

[MetalMan]

Where'd you obtain these bolts Travis? Mine loosened up on me just today

Custom. They're from McMaster-Carr, M10x1.5 80mm length I believe, and trimmed shorter so they don't bottom out. I drilled the holes in the bolt heads with a drill press for the safety wire to pass through.

[Schrubbe8210]

Yes, the high temp threadlocker for 45$ a bottle is the right stuff. Go to cotronics website for the description of the colors. I confirmed with cotronics first, and they gave me the mcmaster part number. Mcmaster just doesnt show the actual brand. Im reassembling this weekend, ill let you know how it goes. You guys think i should thread the studs in and let it sit for a few days to cure then assemble it or just assemble it all at once and let it cure then?

[demonmk2]

put down your pursue while using the ratchet.

what the hell is pursue got to do with anything

[demonmk2]

so this stuff is easy to use....nothing like red lock tight, right

[Schrubbe8210]

http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/pdf/907ts.pdf Thats the fact sheet on it. Alledgedly doesnt have to get heated up real hot to undo, like red loctite. But holds up to way higher temps.

And i think he meant purse, not pursue. It makes a little more sense then.

[demonmk2]

I guess he was trying to be a smartass then...

[Schrubbe8210]

I would I would agree he is trying to be a smart ass

[Dan[FN]6262]

Yeah. It was a joke my typo totally fucked up.

[demonmk2]

[IMG][/IMG]

[Dan[FN]6262]

[Schrubbe8210]

I love Friday. Chris Tucker is pure gold.

[Schrubbe8210]

So I got to Road America last weekend. Had 3 awesome sessions and then had to go home for a stupid wedding. The car ran well, pulled hard, and I had no issues. When I backed it off the trailer at home, exhaust leak again, one stud loosened and the gasket is roasted. I ordered up a copper gasket, and also some arp stainless studs (they only had stainless in the M10x1.5). My only thought is after 30 minutes at 1700 degree EGTs, the turbo hangin on the studs stretched them and they loosened. I am willing to give it one more go with the fancy studs, resbond threadlocker, and copper gasket, and if it loosens up or blows the gasket I am buying a PagParts V-banded manifold/turbine housing/wastegate/DP set. I should have done that from the beginning, but trusted my local tuner a little too much. This setup is probably fine for the street, but cant handle track abuse.

Also, I want some cams, but IE says they wont have any until next year, any cam recommendations that dont require degreeing and will make some nice power?

Thoughts?

[Schrubbe8210]

Another day at Road America today, blew the gasket out after the third session again. I will be ordering a vbanded setup from pagparts on monday. Ill post up some pics when it gets here!

[demonmk2]

Do you have a go pro?

[Schrubbe8210]

Yes, why?

[demonmk2]

We want video too.....

[Schrubbe8210]

I have video from the july session. I have no idea how to transform it or upload it. I can barely play it on my computer cause i took it in the real high res mode. if you can give me some ideas on that ill upload some for sure.

[Believer]

Best bet will probably be uploading to YouTube.

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[Schrubbe8210]

played around with the video. ill hunt down a good section and try to upload one for yall. my new manifold that is vbanded from pagparts is coming in a week or two. Im jacked. also got the rev limiter bumped to 8500. should be a lot better.

[Schrubbe8210]

GOT IT FIGURED OUT. Pag Parts Vbanded kit. Also bought coilovers, just in time for storage. going to dyno it this weekend.

[demonmk2]

Oh boy!
That should make a big difference

[demonmk2]

Updates?

[Schrubbe8210]

Got it aligned and corner weighted. Definitely pulls harder than before. tomorrow morning I am going to the dyno, so Ill post up a chart when I get that. I am currently hitting about 28.5psi, which should be good. It spools significantly quicker too. I am glad I went vbanded.

[pyongwonse]

What did you end up picking up?

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[Schrubbe8210]

I dont know. I am going to dyno it this morning.

[A1 A2 German]

Interesting, was a diagram of upper control arms potions provided? Mine are dead center on the upper perch.

[Schrubbe8210]

I called 034, when they redesigned them, they shifted the bearing out. they way they are installed in the picture is correct.

Dynoed at 368 AWHP. Torque didnt read cause the rpm signal was fucked up. ill take a pic of the chart and post it later.

[demonmk2]

What tune do you have again?
Cams or at least an intake cam would bump that up
What throttle body are you running?

[Schrubbe8210]

My tune is the UM Stage 4 with a promaf. Yes, I know cams would help, unfortunately, IE has been backordered for like 10 months on their cams, and those are the ones I want. I intend to buy them as soon as they are available. I have just the standard 60mm DBC AEB throttle body, it is required for the tune.