5 Year Plan: An introduction, build and resurrection thread

[slunky]

I want to do what you're doing.

[Believer]

I want to do what you're doing.

I'm confident you could after seeing all you've done man.

[_BOOSTED_]

Really love the build. Kinda hoping to do this to mine sometime in the near future.


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[Believer]

Really love the build. Kinda hoping to do this to mine sometime in the near future.


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Thanks a lot, i'm sure you will!

I have a question I'm not really sure of. Is the N249 valve still able to be used with the deletion of the suction jet pump? I'm struggling to make sense of how all the check valves come into play and what should have constant vacuum and what shouldn't. Would love some input.

[MetalMan]

I have a question I'm not really sure of. Is the N249 valve still able to be used with the deletion of the suction jet pump? I'm struggling to make sense of how all the check valves come into play and what should have constant vacuum and what shouldn't. Would love some input.

Yes, I use N249 with deleted suction jet pump. About a year ago I modified this diagram with how it is set up:


Just need a couple tees in there.

[Believer]

Yes, I use N249 with deleted suction jet pump. About a year ago I modified this diagram with how it is set up:

Just need a couple tees in there.

Thanks Travis, super helpful

[MetalMan]

No problem. My only suggestion here would be to give the PCV valve it's own vacuum port (assuming you're still using this part of the breather system), like shown in the pictures. Previously I tee'd off of the vacuum line for PCV valve and things got a little messy.

[Believer]

No problem. My only suggestion here would be to give the PCV valve it's own vacuum port (assuming you're still using this part of the breather system), like shown in the pictures. Previously I tee'd off of the vacuum line for PCV valve and things got a little messy.

Will do - thanks for the tip man.

Does anyone know the differences between the AEB/ATW and AWM Pressure Relief Valve? I'm pretty sure the one from my AWM car got thrown away and all I have left is the AEB one.

[B5 Quattro]

I can't help with that but I just wanted to say wow! Looks good so far. I'll be reading this one till the end, that's for sure.�� keep up the good work. And thanks for posting this. I'm sure it will help a lot of ppl that are doing the same thing or similar thing.

[MetalMan]

Does anyone know the differences between the AEB/ATW and AWM Pressure Relief Valve? I'm pretty sure the one from my AWM car got thrown away and all I have left is the AEB one.

Various places are showing the AWM one (06A129101D) as "20mm", whereas the AEB/ATW is "19mm".
One consideration is that the AWM one (also used on AMB in the B6) has to deal with a vented valve cover, so perhaps the valving inside the PRV is different to accommodate higher flow.

In any case they're different part numbers and that would be enough for me to stick with the AWM one.

[Believer]

I can't help with that but I just wanted to say wow! Looks good so far. I'll be reading this one till the end, that's for sure.�� keep up the good work. And thanks for posting this. I'm sure it will help a lot of ppl that are doing the same thing or similar thing.

Thanks for the kind words man! I've leeched plenty information from these boards over time and so it's definitely my hope that folks will benefit from this documentation.

Various places are showing the AWM one (06A129101D) as "20mm", whereas the AEB/ATW is "19mm".
One consideration is that the AWM one (also used on AMB in the B6) has to deal with a vented valve cover, so perhaps the valving inside the PRV is different to accommodate higher flow.

In any case they're different part numbers and that would be enough for me to stick with the AWM one.

Yea, I ended up ordering an AWM one. Good thought on it handling vent from two locations, I hadn't thought about that fact.

Hmm, a build thread I missed in my ~2 years lurking here. We have almost the same car, though your build's looking much better. What part of south jersey are you in? I'm from the Berlin/Voorhees area.

Thanks for the words man. I'm located in Williamstown, not too far from you at all.

[Believer]

Oh you're really close actually. If you need any help with your build let me know. I have full VCDS too.

Thanks man!

Not much progress has been made this week. I'm volunteering at my church's VBS this week doing all their photos for the event so that's been consuming most of my time.

Last weekend I did manage to get most of the turbo lines installed. I got held up due to not ordering crush washers for the oil feed at the filter housing. Got them and a couple last minute PCV items on the way. Only pic I snapped during it all.

[Believer]

I just got back from vacation and have resumed work on the car. Unfortunately no pictures to post at this time though.

I do have a question: When i pulled the clutch fork out to swap pilot bearings, there was this plastic piece located behind the pivot ball - OEM part number 012141751C



I've searched on this item and it is only listed as being used for the V6 engine which is confusing since it was installed in a 1.8t application. Does anyone have any guidance on this? Yesterday I bolted up the trans to the block but forgot this piece so I removed the trans once more and reinstalled this piece. Now today after seeing it is for V6 applications has me a little worried.

[old guy]

I just got back from vacation and have resumed work on the car. Unfortunately no pictures to post at this time though.

I do have a question: When i pulled the clutch fork out to swap pilot bearings, there was this plastic piece located behind the pivot ball - OEM part number 012141751C



I've searched on this item and it is only listed as being used for the V6 engine which is confusing since it was installed in a 1.8t application. Does anyone have any guidance on this? Yesterday I bolted up the trans to the block but forgot this piece so I removed the trans once more and reinstalled this piece. Now today after seeing it is for V6 applications has me a little worried.

Yes you need that piece. Along with the ball pin 012141777D and the retaining spring 012141741

[Believer]

Yes you need that piece. Along with the ball pin 012141777D and the retaining spring 012141741

Thanks Fletcher. I did end up popping the trans off to put the plastic piece back in. Getting close to firing it up! I've been sucking on the photo documentation though.

[JJ.]

Love your attention to detail and fresh parts! Keep up the good work!


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[Believer]

Love your attention to detail and fresh parts! Keep up the good work!


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Thanks! I've definitely lost a bit of that mojo towards the end of this build.

8/27/15 Update

Well, i'm getting really close to firing the car up.

There's just a couple items remaining which are

- I ordered the wrong injector 'unspacers' from USRT. The ones I ordered turned out to be too long, leaving about a 1" gap between the rail and manifold. Sticking the bolts in and turning them down pushes down on the rail unevenly so I'm waiting to hear from Scotty at USRT to see if we can exchange.

- Waiting on a 3 bar map sensor and crush washers for the power steering.
- Waiting for the base file from Motoza
- Bolt up all control arms
- Install strut mounts
- Install the rest of the exhaust
- Install rear coilovers and clean no-rust perches
- Install IC and piping
- Install brakes and SS brake lines. Flush hydraulic systems

It seems like a lot when I write it all out but I should be able to bang out most of that Friday evening with the exception of the MAP sensor install.

Here are just a few pictures of my progress. Lots was done that went undocumented unfortunately but you'll get the idea.

Cat and DP installed



Front Covers and other msc bits on



Valeo clutch and single mass flywheel installed. New coolant hoses, flange, sensor and PCV stuff. All the white stuff on the tire is remnants from the corn tortillas I used to press the pilot bearing out. Worked like a charm.



Setting the motor and trans in on the mounts





And just about fully buttoned up. Still have a good bit of cleaning to do from the false firewall back but that won't take much time at all with a wet soapy sponge.



Hoping to have it running within a week or so.

[MetalMan]

Interesting that you're going with a 3bar MAP sensor (stock is 2.5 bar?). Is this simply so boost can be safely raised past ~22 psi? Did Motoza have any issues incorporating it? Mind if I ask where you ordered it, and price?

Things are looking great!
I have one primary concern for you: I think you'll quickly get tired of the intake noise with a cone filter . Looks like a 3" MAF housing? I built a 3" MAF housing into a stock airbox lid.

Secondary concern is your clutch. I run the same one, and I think it's on the verge of holding capacity with F21 non-mixed flow and E85. Do you have any E85 plans?

[Seerlah]

Use fuel rail spacers for the 1" gap. You can actually make your own. Pick up piping in the right diameters and just cut it for the 1" lengths. I use standard nuts for my fuel rail spacers. But my gap isnt as large.

[Believer]

Interesting that you're going with a 3bar MAP sensor (stock is 2.5 bar?). Is this simply so boost can be safely raised past ~22 psi? Did Motoza have any issues incorporating it? Mind if I ask where you ordered it, and price?

Things are looking great!
I have one primary concern for you: I think you'll quickly get tired of the intake noise with a cone filter . Looks like a 3" MAF housing? I built a 3" MAF housing into a stock airbox lid.

Secondary concern is your clutch. I run the same one, and I think it's on the verge of holding capacity with F21 non-mixed flow and E85. Do you have any E85 plans?

Thanks man!

You are correct - the 3 bar MAP is to run higher than 22 psi and retain full N75 control. When I spoke with Dave or one of his customer associates it did not sound at all like it would be an issue - they even offer the 3 bar for sale.

I purchased mine here. The B5s use a large MAP hole whereas this sensor is a small hole but they offer a rubber grommet to make up the space.

I originally was going to use my airbox for the same concern you have. I had opened up the hole to use a VR6 MAF housing i sourced but when i went to put the sensor in the housing, the screw holes were orientated the wrong way so I had to scrap the VR6 housing and use the Frankenturbo housing. The Franken housing has a slightly smaller O.D. than the VR6 housing so I had to use RTV to get the housing to seal against the air box. I got fed up with it when I realized the MAF connector didn't properly line up with the hole for the connector, requiring more work and modification. I said screw it and ordered an AEM Dryflow. I will have to see how much it bothers me and if it does return to fitting the MAF inside of the airbox.

I will not be running E85. Availibility is scant in south Jersey - only one or two stations i'm aware of that carry it and is at least a 45 minute ride. I will be running 93 exclusively. I won't be doing any launches so for now i'm going to roll with it and see how it lasts.

Use fuel rail spacers for the 1" gap. You can actually make your own. Pick up piping in the right diameters and just cut it for the 1" lengths. I use standard nuts for my fuel rail spacers. But my gap isnt as large.

I have another order in with USRT for the proper length spacer and will ship the unspacer2 adapters back once the new ones arrive. I wasn't interested in doing double adapting to get the injectors to fit, I just needed the right part.

[MetalMan]

You are correct - the 3 bar MAP is to run higher than 22 psi and retain full N75 control. When I spoke with Dave or one of his customer associates it did not sound at all like it would be an issue - they even offer the 3 bar for sale.

I purchased mine here. The B5s use a large MAP hole whereas this sensor is a small hole but they offer a rubber grommet to make up the space.

I originally was going to use my airbox for the same concern you have. I had opened up the hole to use a VR6 MAF housing i sourced but when i went to put the sensor in the housing, the screw holes were orientated the wrong way so I had to scrap the VR6 housing and use the Frankenturbo housing. The Franken housing has a slightly smaller O.D. than the VR6 housing so I had to use RTV to get the housing to seal against the air box. I got fed up with it when I realized the MAF connector didn't properly line up with the hole for the connector, requiring more work and modification. I said screw it and ordered an AEM Dryflow. I will have to see how much it bothers me and if it does return to fitting the MAF inside of the airbox.

Thanks for the link on the MAP sensor. I'm curious if Motoza will tune you for above 22psi on 93 octane with the F21 mixed-flow. My guess is no, but you never know.

Next time I have my airbox lid off, I'll try to remember to snap a picture of how the FT 3" MAF housing fits. Think the MAF housing didn't need any modification, but of course I hacked up the airbox lid.

[Believer]

Thanks for the link on the MAP sensor. I'm curious if Motoza will tune you for above 22psi on 93 octane with the F21 mixed-flow. My guess is no, but you never know.

Next time I have my airbox lid off, I'll try to remember to snap a picture of how the FT 3" MAF housing fits. Think the MAF housing didn't need any modification, but of course I hacked up the airbox lid.

Thanks, that would be greatly appreciated!

I don't see any reason why he wouldn't tune higher. On the transverse application that Doug tested the mixed flow on they tuned to 20 psi at onset then tapered the boost up to 23-25 psi and carried 22 to redline. I'm sure Dave will feel comfortable tuning to those levels with having rods in my motor and the proper charge air cooling in place. Time will tell.

[Believer]

8/31/15 Update

Over the weekend I worked a bit on getting the intercooler mounted up and all the piping routed.

I used 1/4" aluminum to make the L brackets and SS hardware to tie it all together. The cross bracket and brackets hanging from the stock condensor mounting spot came with the CX Racing piping kit.

My neighbor was kind enough to offer the use of his hydraulic bender for the brackets - much more efficient than any way I would have done it.



All mounted in place



Next up
-Remove Exhaust, rear suspension, tie-rods and rear differential carrier bushing from old A4
-Install above into new A4
-Bolt up front control arms into place

[GOODBYNAAIR]

Nice work on the FT build ! I see our using a Valeo clutch is stock specs? or a "stg 1 or 2" or 240mm cutch? Im only saying this because the FT make lots of good fun TQ and im sure not how long a stock clutch will hold up? stg 1 tunned cars have been known to go through OEM clutches. but this is just my $.02, you seem to know what your doing so im sure you have that it worked out.

Again great project so far!

[Believer]

Nice work on the FT build ! I see our using a Valeo clutch is stock specs? or a "stg 1 or 2" or 240mm cutch? Im only saying this because the FT make lots of good fun TQ and im sure how long a stock clutch will hold up? stg 1 tunned cars have been now to go throw OEM clutches. but this is just my $.02, you seem to know what your doing so im sure you have that it worked out.

Again great project so far!

Thanks man! You definitely aren't the first to voice a concern about the clutch. I had read over in the B6 forum folks using this clutch and not having issues with their FT and also folks stating it would hold more than a stock clutch, a claim i haven't been able to find validation for. I will say that I am definitely not 100% confident it won't be an issue but at this point i'm willing to roll with it and deal with any issues that may arise later on. Also at this point in the build my budget is far beyond where I wanted it to be. I do appreciate the caution and opinion though. At least if the clutch fails prematurely I can say 'welp, they told me so', replace it with something more stout and move on.

[Sickws6]

I love the attention to detail!

[crazexr7]

Those brackets are beautiful

[Believer]

Those brackets are beautiful

Thanks man. Just to be clear, we only fabbed the L brackets. The drop downs and the cross bracket came with the CX Racing piping kit. Just don't want to be getting credit for something we didn't do lol

[crazexr7]

I kind of figured but I was referring to the L brackets

[UroTuning]

Wow that timing belt looked horrible!!! Can't wait to see what you do with the car!

[Believer]

Wow that timing belt looked horrible!!! Can't wait to see what you do with the car!

It was unbelievably crusty lol. Between that, all the coolant that got sprayed everywhere and the PCV that was busted, the engine and trans were pretty much caked everywhere.

At this point i'm waiting on my base file from Motoza and I will be able to fire the car up. Stay tuned!

[Believer]

9/8/15 Update

Alright so it's time for an update.

So Saturday night a bunch of my buddys and my brother came over to bang out some of the remaining tasks. We also fired it up for the first time.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6b...ew?usp=sharing

It was really exciting to hear it fire up and idled great.

I spent the rest of the weekend finishing odds and ends to get the car ready to drive.

I took it out last night for the first time and to do the break in. It drove incredibly well - smooth acceleration, just overall ran very well.

Queue in this morning. I'm driving to work, only a few miles from home, and I hear some rubbing/grinding, sounds like the brakes. I let it go for a few minutes, it starts to get worse. I turn the car around and drive it back home.

While driving back, the car stalls a short bit from my house. Some pushing and towing and i get it back to my driveway.

Pull the codes - There are injector open circuit codes, o2 sensor code regarding to the circuit, power supply to terminal 30 code.. I realize quickly it must be a grounding issue. I search around and find a loose ground at the back of the firewall, the one right under the coolant reservoir. I also find a loose power cable on the alternator.

Fire the car back up - it idles perfect. Idling at 1 lambda. Here's the issue - the moment the gas is even blipped, the idle starts to stumble and just never returns to smooth. It eventually will die. Trying to move the car basically ends up the same once the throttle is released and the rpms wind down.

Does anyone have any insight, things to try, etc here? There are no codes when all of this is going on - just one for SAI but that's because i just need to get it tuned out. The thing that really throws me is that before i guess the ground loosened up and the alternator wire loosened up, the car ran wonderfully. I just can't wrap my head around it. Thanks in advance for any help

[MetalMan]

Can try unplugging MAF; if it runs fine with MAF disconnected this would point towards a few different things, but that should help regardless.

Also have you done a TBA?

[Believer]

Can try unplugging MAF; if it runs fine with MAF disconnected this would point towards a few different things, but that should help regardless.

Also have you done a TBA?

Hey Travis - I did try unplugging the MAF, the car would barely idle. After going through everything it was determined to be a boost leak. Retightened all the hoses, reset the ECU and i'm good to go now. Car is still a mess both on the outside and inside as my only focus was getting the vehicle running and usable. I will have some finished pictures up some time in the next week or so. Cheers for all the help

[MetalMan]

Next time I have my airbox lid off, I'll try to remember to snap a picture of how the FT 3" MAF housing fits. Think the MAF housing didn't need any modification, but of course I hacked up the airbox lid.

Thanks, that would be greatly appreciated!

Finally pulled apart my intake this weekend... did my own boost leak test and cleaned the air filter. Hope you don't mind me posting the pics here:

[Believer]

Thanks man! Very helpful.

Some data logs from my Motoza base file. Fixed a small boost leak over the weekend and should have an updated file soon.

[bigred222]

Looks good man can't wait to see some pics of everything buttoned up in the front. And see some highway pull dash videos.

[Believer]

Looks good man can't wait to see some pics of everything buttoned up in the front. And see some highway pull dash videos.

Haha thanks man! It is all buttoned up, i'm just ironing out some cosmetic things and lots of last minute details before h2o. I don't have a GoPro or anything but once I get close to a final revision with Dave I'll be sure to figure out a way to post a quality video.


In the past few weeks i've:

• Installed poly diff carier
• Shampood the carpets and my sport cloth interior
• Installed Sport cloth interior
• New oil level sensor gasket - leaking
• New injector cups - leaking
• Patched a tire on my Borbets
• Received my second revision from Motoza and waiting on the third
• Installed my V&S short shifter - WHAT a difference this thing makes. It makes the stock shifter feel like a truck
• Fresh gear oil
• First fill with LiquiMoly 5w30 - I was so glad to get the convential out of there. It was so unbelievable thin when I poured it out

Next up:

• Clean and install my Borbets
• Claybar and wax exterior
• Get my bumper to fit right
• Drive it!

I'm lame and have not taken many pictures... hopefully I can get some up soon. Any advice on freeing a seized coilover ring?

[MetalMan]

I've become more interested in the 3bar MAP sensor upgrade that you did, and how Dave is handling the boost tuning on your car (also since you upgraded the rods).
Thinking that in the future, I may do rods and 3bar MAP, and pay Motoza for a hardware upgrade... see how much Dave can get out of my F21 non-mixed-flow on E85.

How's your boost looking after Rev. 2? (or Rev 3, if you received it already)

[Believer]

I've become more interested in the 3bar MAP sensor upgrade that you did, and how Dave is handling the boost tuning on your car (also since you upgraded the rods).
Thinking that in the future, I may do rods and 3bar MAP, and pay Motoza for a hardware upgrade... see how much Dave can get out of my F21 non-mixed-flow on E85.

How's your boost looking after Rev. 2? (or Rev 3, if you received it already)

I am currently on Rev3. I will be logging on my drive in soon and will post up a graph!

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