Audi B5 420-R: The Build

[pbcrazy]

It is...and I explained why earlier.

No not in presentation, just that it is quickly becoming one of the best built b5's on the road

[Nollywood]

Update 14th January 2013 - continued:

Modified radiator and hood lock carrier. To clear the V8, the entire mid-section needed to be cut out. It's not a structural assembly, so not a big deal. All the central section was for was to mount the aircon electric fan, and act as a cowl for the mechanical engine-drive one. As I'm fitting a pair of electric fans on the front of the radiator, it's not needed.

Picture:



Picture showing the twin 12" electric fans temporarily mounted on the radiator:

[Nollywood]

No not in presentation, just that it is quickly becoming one of the best built b5's on the road

My apologies for jumping the gun, bruh. To be honest, I'm far from completion, in fact, pretty much back to square one.

[Nollywood]

Rewind to 07th January 2013:

A friend of mine had a '98 Audi A4 B5 Quattro 1,9 TDI to get rid of. The engine had been starved of oil, and was pretty sludged up. The low oil pressure warning lamp illuminated just before the engine expired with a gasping death rattle.

I took it off his hands, and it was delivered to me today. I was after an I4 front crossmember, as the V6 one would not clear the big V8 motor, so it was just in time. I've picked some choice bits off it, including the 5-speed manual gearbox, rear lamp clusters, the rain guard that covers the wiper area under the hood, various coolant hoses, central locking pump etc, and will literally pillage her for any more juicy bits and pieces.

Pictures!









I took a quick look at the engine, after removing the rocker cover. For those that ignore oil change intervals, use the wrong oil, or remove their thermostats, causing the engine to run too cool (and causing condensation to turn the oil to deadly sludge) this is the end result. This oil was so contaminated, it looked like mud:

[Nollywood]

15th November 2014:

After an extremely long break, I am moving on with my Audi A4 Quattro DTM race car, showing her some much needed love.

The Audi S8 4.2 V8 2xDOHC 32V motor is coming back out, making way for a later 2005 Audi 4.2 V8 2xDOHC 40V powerplant. I had this change of mind due to a number of reasons, which include a more flexible motor, more power, and best of all, there are supercharger kits for the 40V engines.

It is also DBW (Drive By Wire), Euro 4 compliant, and run by Bosch Motronic ME7.1.1 which can be flash upgraded via the OBD port.

I will keep you guys updated, with pictures to follow.

[Nollywood]

20th March 2015:

We recently relocated, due to the demands of an expanding family (both human and cars!). My dilemma was how to transport my Audi A4 Quattro DTM car, as well as my now part-stripped Audi A8 D3. As some may remember, I had a rethink on the engine choice, and decided to remove the S8 4.2 V8 32V motor, in favour of a newer 4.2 V8 40V power plant.

Transporting my DTM car would cost a fair bit, remember this is a 1995 pre-facelift Audi A4 Quattro B5. Facelift cars have come down in price. So I decided to break up my pre-facelift car, and replace it with a 2000 facelift model. Of course, I removed the V8 motor and 6-speed manual gearbox.

Transporting my DTM car would cost pretty much the same as me purchasing a replacement facelift car, so it was a no-brainer.

With my truck gone, I was left with 2 V8 engines, and of course, a 6-speed manual. So the search for a new project car was on, and after a week of negotiation with a seller, I bagged one.

It's a 2000 model, an A4 2.5 V6 TDI Quattro Sport, 6-speed manual. After a round trip of 416 miles today, she's sitting on my driveway.

[Nollywood]

Back to the present:

Why use a diesel as a base for my project?

The answer's simple. It's the only B5 Audi bar the S4, that comes with a 6-speed manual. ;)

So effectively, I have all the hardware to build 2 very different B5 A4 Quattro V8's. My old car was a factory 5-speed manual, which I converted to 6-speed. I could have gone the same route, but it would mean buying an older car. My older car was a 2.6 V6, and the only petrol-engined B5 bar the S4 to come with the correct rear differential to match a 6-speed gearbox.

6-speed cars have a final drive ratio of 4.11:1. The 2.8 Quattro is a 5-speed, with a final drive ratio of 3.89:1, the 1.8T Quattro is a 3.72:1.So using any of these cars would mean I would have to source a replacement rear differential from a 2.6 Quattro or an S4.

So the TDI route made sense.

In the next few weeks, I will be sourcing another B5 Quattro Sport. This will be a fully stripped-out DTM car, with a full roll cage, plumbed-in fire extinguisher. This will be finished off in the colours and livery, either of the German Touring Cars (DTM) or the British Touring Car Championship (BTCC). These were all based upon the 1995/6 model Audi A4 Quattro B5, hence my choice of an older model for this. Of course, this will be running the S8 4.2 V8 32V, and 6-speed manual. It will also sport the BTCC front bumper splitter, rear wing and 9"x18" OZ Superturismo wheels.

The new facelift TDI will be pretty much the same body spec as my old B5, so OEM Audi RS4 bodywork. This will be semi-stripped out, though not as hardcore as the BTCC car, and will have a roll cage in the rear only. No plumbed-in fire extinguishers either. The power plant will be the Audi 4.2 V8 40V, mated to the existing 6-speed manual, though I will pull it out for a refresh first.

I'll post pictures of the new arrival shortly. The previous car, N379TPF has gone to the wreckers.

[Nollywood]

When I picked up my Pelican Blue car, my plans to strip her evaporated. She will be OEM RS4 widebody, with all the toys. The DTM stripped-out theme will be applied to the Santorin Blue B5 Quattro.

[melomandn]

This is awesome

[down_n_dapper]

you win the audizine.

[Nollywood]

Update 18th May 2015:

Today I sent the D3 A8 4.2 V8 40V (BFM) ECU off to get the immobiliser defeated, as I don't want to run the A8's instrument cluster; nice enough as it undoubtedly looks, I want to keep the B5 interior stock.

This is one of the reasons I haven't pulled the motor yet. I've sold tons off the D3 A8, but I've been careful to make sure nothing to do with the engine running has been removed. It makes sense to carry out the immobiliser defeat first.

To test this, I've got a non-transpondered key cut. Once my ECU is back, I will attempt starting the engine with the foreign key. If the procedure is successful, it should run just fine. Then I will proceed in pulling the motor out, and prep it for installation into my Pelican Blue B5.

I can't wait to turn the key for the first time.

[Nollywood]

Update 27th May 2015:

I got my A8 D3 4.2 V8 ECU back today. I promptly plugged it into my A8, and tried starting her with the blank folding key I got cut (without a transponder chip).

The engine roared into life. I'm pretty stoked. Now I just need to pull the engine and trans from the A8, and pretty much remove all the parts that will come in useful - harnesses, control modules, dash, fuel pump, all relay boards, panels, alcantara roof lining, steering wheel etc.

I need to get it stripped, so I can get the wreckers to pick up the shell, then I can clear garage space to commence work.

[walky_talky20]

my Pelican Blue B5.

I wish so hard to someday be able to utter these very words.

I like your carefully thought out plan as per the immobilizer. Smart move.

[Nollywood]

I wish so hard to someday be able to utter these very words.

I like your carefully thought out plan as per the immobilizer. Smart move.

Thanks. The D3 doesn't have the immobiliser in the instrument cluster, it has a separate ECU. More like a certification ECU, if you like.

Easy to install in a different chassis, but I'd rather do without the extra wiring and weight.

[down_n_dapper]

may I ask where you got your immo defeated my friend? Love your work!

[Nollywood]

may I ask where you got your immo defeated my friend? Love your work!

Thanks buddy!

I use Vagtronics, a very well respected shop here in the UK.

[crazexr7]

Awesome, will be following this!

[Nollywood]

Awesome, will be following this!

Thanks bruh!

[Nollywood]

This will be with me sometime next week. Then off it goes for some modifications - a replacement DIS, I don't want to wait for the pixels to start fading. And some changes to the tacho redline, as well as the actual RS6 logo.

Something more in keeping with a B5.

[Nollywood]

I forgot to include the original eBay picture. I mean this:

[down_n_dapper]

they're such an attractive cluster, good idea on the preventative dis replacement

[Nollywood]

they're such an attractive cluster, good idea on the preventative dis replacement

Thanks buddy.

[Nollywood]

Update 01st June 2015:

My C5 RS6 instrument cluster turned up today. I ordered it with the 3 connectors, just in case they were different to mine, but they are the same. Thank the good Lord my B5 is pretty much the last facelift, meaning digital clock.

I quickly swapped it with my original, not to start the engine - it won't fire anyway, as immobiliser will be active. I was curious to see how the cluster would react to the B5's inputs.

First impressions: Everything works as it should, as far as warning lights go. The illumination is not as bright as my original, as the C5 cluster needs an external rheostat to control the intensity. Not a big deal, I'll sort that out.

TPMS: This RS6 had the optional TPMS, with no input to the cluster, the warning on the DIS is constant. Again, no big deal. Some grounding, or install TPMS, with the input going to the relevant plug/pin. I'll unpin the feed from the spare connectors that were supplied with the unit.

Fuel gauge / range on DIS: As I was already aware, the C5 has a larger gas tank compared to the B5. My car actually has the tank 3 quarters full, but it reads just above the reserve with the RS6 cluster. Of course, this affects the range.

My options are:

Install a VR external to the B5's level sender, and fine tune the resistance. The level sender is a simple variable resistor, with a carbon track and slider.

Install a C5 level sender, and adjust the float arm to suit the B5's tank.

Either option will work.

Some pictures. Note the B5's illumination is currently much brighter than that of the C5.

C5 RS6:









B5 A4 2.8 Quattro facelift:





C5 RS6 on the bench:



The RS6's DIS is perfect, but I would rather get it replaced as a preventative measure. With our cars, it's not so much "if" it fails, more like "when" it fails. I will also have white pointers, B5 S4-style fitted, and get a custom logo to replace RS6. This means a new dial, and the logo will relate more to my B5 and it's final state.

[Mad Cow]

For the fuel level you can modify the cluster EEPROM, lots of info here. Basically all you gotta do copy the fuel level sensor values and needle position maps over from a B5 cluster. If you read off your cluster's EEPROM I can tell you exactly what to replace with what since it's pretty daunting to start out and I already have a decent understanding of it all. As for the TPMS, I'll bet you can change the coding through vagcom to disable it.

[Nollywood]

For the fuel level you can modify the cluster EEPROM, lots of info here. Basically all you gotta do copy the fuel level sensor values and needle position maps over from a B5 cluster. If you read off your cluster's EEPROM I can tell you exactly what to replace with what since it's pretty daunting to start out and I already have a decent understanding of it all. As for the TPMS, I'll bet you can change the coding through vagcom to disable it.

Thanks bud! I'll be in touch, if I get stuck.

[Mad Cow]

Thanks bud! I'll be in touch, if I get stuck.

No problem, just remember that since you have immo you need to read, modify, and write the EEPROM in one session. If you don't then bad things happen and the cluster becomes very unhappy.

[Nollywood]

No problem, just remember that since you have immo you need to read, modify, and write the EEPROM in one session. If you don't then bad things happen and the cluster becomes very unhappy.

The IMMO shouldn't be an issue, as my V8 ECU has had an IMMO defeat. It already runs with any key, including those without transponders.

[Mad Cow]

The IMMO shouldn't be an issue, as my V8 ECU has had an IMMO defeat. It already runs with any key, including those without transponders.

The issue isn't with the immo system per se, it's just that immo clusters have extra security measures that make it necessary to do everything in one session. Otherwise it either won't work or could actually damage the cluster, I'm not too sure on the details.

[Nollywood]

The issue isn't with the immo system per se, it's just that immo clusters have extra security measures that make it necessary to do everything in one session. Otherwise it either won't work or could actually damage the cluster, I'm not too sure on the details.

Seems it's best to make the changes external to the cluster, as I originally planned. I don't want to brick the unit so early in the game.

[Nollywood]

So this week, I've gotten on top of some work, meaning this weekend I'll have some free time on my hands.

The plan is to get my garage cleared, and begin pulling the motor and trans from my old D3 A8. Hopefully, the weather will stay dry enough for me to make some headway.

[Nollywood]

I received my double DIN Symphony II yesterday. All that is required is a double DIN cage / console, and matching climate control panel.

At this point, I must say the new head unit is NOT being mounted in the regular location (centre console). My double DIN centre console is being purchased to install an iPad. With the advent of advanced Apple / Android tablets, and great apps, there is very little a standard head unit can do, that can't be achieved with a top-end tablet.

Navigation.
DAD Radio.
Media Player.
OBD II (in conjunction with ELM327 Bluetooth or WiFi).
Bluetooth Connectivity.
DVB Reception.
Hotspot.
Internet Access.
Etc, etc.

I am installing an iPad I to the centre console. My recently acquired Symphony II will be installed in a custom aft centre console, facing upwards. This will be connected to the OEM plugs, which will be extended from the forward console. This arrangement will enable the output of the iPad to be fed into the Symphony, so it will be amplified, before output to an external amplifier, and finally the speakers. I am planning to use the speakers and factory rear sub from my old D3 A8.

I will need to acquire an extra rear console to begin modifying to accept the Symphony. I'm also looking into a motorised perspex lid, to protect the unit from dust. Or build a motorised cradle, that will enable the Symphony unit swivel 90 degrees when not in use. My only concern here is the cabling getting damaged, though it's unlikely, especially if telephone-style (spring-like) cabling is utilised.

I will post pictures as this aspect of my project gathers pace.

[walky_talky20]

I love all this OEM+ goodness. But it's like, much more plus than normal. RS6 cluster? A8 subwoofer? It's like OEM++.

Keep doin' whatcha doin'.

[Nollywood]

I love all this OEM+ goodness. But it's like, much more plus than normal. RS6 cluster? A8 subwoofer? It's like OEM++.

Keep doin' whatcha doin'.

Thanks, Walky! I appreciate your kind words.

[Nollywood]

Update 13th June 2015:

I stripped down my Audi RS6 C5 instrument cluster, to replace the red pointer needles with white ones. I purchased a 2001 Audi S4 B5 cluster for this. I haven't wrecked it, I simply swapped the needles over. I think the white needles look pretty good in the RS6 cluster.

Before:





During:











After:

[Nollywood]

Audi Symphony I.







Options are to install it in a custom arm rest, above the parking brake. Or lose the arm rest, and build it into a reworked centre console. However due to the depth, something will have to be done about the parking brake lever.

EPB (Electronic Parking Brake) solution. Just looking into the logistics of it all.

[down_n_dapper]

white are definitely the better colour!

shame you swapped the red ones into the cluster, I would happily pay to get those into my cluster, hint hint

EPB would be amazing to see implemented! such a classy feature on Q5's and the like

[Nollywood]

white are definitely the better colour!

shame you swapped the red ones into the cluster, I would happily pay to get those into my cluster, hint hint

EPB would be amazing to see implemented! such a classy feature on Q5's and the like

Thanks bud!

You could purchase this S4 cluster, with the proper white needles. Or simply ship you white S4 needles.

[down_n_dapper]

Does the S4 cluster have immo? Since im in australia with Euro A4's the same rules apply to me that apply to you sadly! shoot me a pm with prices of both? ta!

[Nollywood]

Does the S4 cluster have immo? Since im in australia with Euro A4's the same rules apply to me that apply to you sadly! shoot me a pm with prices of both? ta!

PM sent.

[Nollywood]

Update: 16th June 2015:

I got some feedback today on my RS6 cluster.

The RS6 logo can be removed, replaced with something else, and the tacho redline extended to 7000rpm. Of course, this means a replacement tacho dial.

There has been a fairly lengthy delay, due to the DIS LCD display. I don't really care much for the red LCD. The cluster backlighting is white, I have looked into the colour LCD as used in the B6/7, D2/3 and lots of other recent VAG models, but it isn't financially viable.

On the other hand, white LCD's are nice. And I've found a firm willing to install one of these into a C5 RS6 board - at a price!

This is the look I would like: