How to Save a Life- 19birel's attempt at reviving an A4

[19birel]

It doesn't look all that great in person on the b8

Yea that was another reason why I ditched the modded ones because of the holes left by the tabs on the reflector. Buy the ecodes and sell your stock ones, at least you may get half of your money back.

hmmm yeah, probably not even worth ordering the vinyl then. I'll just leave them as is and maybe get some e-codes if I find a good deal. Theoretically my light output is no longer dangerously low and that's what I cared about most anyways.

[xdewaynex]

Ive got an untouched spare set of stock housings that Im going to refinish and do the minih1 projector swap to. Seeing posts from others, the light output is so much better than stock.

[19birel]

Ive got an untouched spare set of stock housings that Im going to refinish and do the minih1 projector swap to. Seeing posts from others, the light output is so much better than stock.

Are the stock housings you have from xenons or halogens? The xenons seem like they are a little easier to work with than the halogens.

[xdewaynex]

Theyre halogens. I have xenons on my car at the moment with a ddm tuning kit. I refinished them about 2yrs ago and done a TSX-R projector lens swap on them, but the housing is all hazy again and need to be redone. I figured since I have the spare set, I would just work with them and not have any downtime.

[19birel]

Theyre halogens. I have xenons on my car at the moment with a ddm tuning kit. I refinished them about 2yrs ago and done a TSX-R projector lens swap on them, but the housing is all hazy again and need to be redone. I figured since I have the spare set, I would just work with them and not have any downtime.

Makes sense. Do you have any experience removing the plastic lenses from these lights? I originally wanted to do that, but I didn't want to risk destroying my only set.


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[xdewaynex]

Sure dont, Id rather not risk trying to remove the outer lens.

[19birel]

So I reinstalled the headlights today, here is how bad the light output was before cleaning the projectors
B5 A4 Halogen Projectors by Ayrton @ Drive19, on Flickr

And after
Untitled by Ayrton @ Drive19, on Flickr

I'm so pleased in the result of this little project, glad I didn't just buy e-codes and call it a day.

I had a few other small project ideas lined, but I think my next step will be to get a quote on a custom exhaust. Currently my cheapest option is a Techtonics tuning unit for around $600ish, I don't want something loud though so we'll see what the best, most economical option is.

[b6Hate4]

So I reinstalled the headlights today, here is how bad the light output was before cleaning the projectors
B5 A4 Halogen Projectors by Ayrton @ Drive19, on Flickr

And after
Untitled by Ayrton @ Drive19, on Flickr

I'm so pleased in the result of this little project, glad I didn't just buy e-codes and call it a day.

I had a few other small project ideas lined, but I think my next step will be to get a quote on a custom exhaust. Currently my cheapest option is a Techtonics tuning unit for around $600ish, I don't want something loud though so we'll see what the best, most economical option is.

Techtonics sound is generally pretty tame, along with Borla. Though I would highly recommend buying second hand with an exhaust, just get some new clamps and you could spend around $350 vs $600

[PringlesInVic]

I am really happy with my Milltek resonated system. It's got just the right tone for me. I didn't want anything too loud as I daily it with my toddler. It wasn't cheap, but I did get it from ECS on sale.

I decided to go this route for long term. It being a 2.75" system it leaves me open for bigger turbo upgrades down the road. Where I felt that the 2.25" Borla would have to be replaced with a bigger turbo. I also went resonated because it's easier to just remove it to make it louder if desired, not that I would now. Like I said, it's got just the right tone.

[19birel]

Techtonics sound is generally pretty tame, along with Borla. Though I would highly recommend buying second hand with an exhaust, just get some new clamps and you could spend around $350 vs $600

I've been keeping my eye out for a used one, but no luck so far. I'll keep looking though, hopefully something pops up.

I am really happy with my Milltek resonated system. It's got just the right tone for me. I didn't want anything too loud as I daily it with my toddler. It wasn't cheap, but I did get it from ECS on sale.

I decided to go this route for long term. It being a 2.75" system it leaves me open for bigger turbo upgrades down the road. Where I felt that the 2.25" Borla would have to be replaced with a bigger turbo. I also went resonated because it's easier to just remove it to make it louder if desired, not that I would now. Like I said, it's got just the right tone.

I'll definitely look into a Milltek if I decide to go new, If ECS has a sale in the near future, that would make it a lot easier to justify the cost.

[19birel]

So somehow my exhaust passed inspection but I failed for a bunch of other crap, nothing too terrible, but will post the paperwork from the dealer and their hilarious price estimate tomorrow when i get the paperwork.

Anyways, one of my springs is too rusty to pass, thought about sport springs but I don't want to then have to replace the dampers in a few k miles. Looking at either FK ak coilovers or Solowerks S1s. Does anyone have experience with either? I don't want to break the bank, and don't really care about going super low. I primarily just want comfort and performance levels to be equal or greater than that of my factory sport suspension. Thanks!

[PringlesInVic]

I came down to SoloWorks or ST's when I did mine. I ended up with ST based on reviews and suggestions on AZ. But with that said, if I were to do it again. I think I would go with the SoloWorks. I've had some issues with a strut. It's hard to say without having tried the Solo's but I'm not convinced I got twice product for twice the price of the Solo's.

I'd be worried about the lack of corrosion protection on the AK's.

[19birel]

I came down to SoloWorks or ST's when I did mine. I ended up with ST based on reviews and suggestions on AZ. But with that said, if I were to do it again. I think I would go with the SoloWorks. I've had some issues with a strut. It's hard to say without having tried the Solo's but I'm not convinced I got twice product for twice the price of the Solo's.

I'd be worried about the lack of corrosion protection on the AK's.

Didn't know the ak's lacked corrosion protection, I've been hearing a lot of good things about solos so I think a set of those may be the way to go then.


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[19birel]

So today I talked to ECS Tuning about suspension options, to my surprise they advised against the Solowerks (based on personal experience) and the FKs (based on user reviews), as much as I'd like to save some money it's looking like the Bilstein B12 cup kit is my best option at this point. Not looking to tear apart my suspension again after this for a long time

[Bordom]

I've run Solos the last 2 years. I own the very last set of the first production run. Highly recommended as they are OEM+ in ride quality.

Spray some Kleen-flo chain saver on the coils. It dries to a waxy finish, and allows the locking rings to move easily. I've done it, and my coil overs have no rust

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[19birel]

I've run Solos the last 2 years. I own the very last set of the first production run. Highly recommended as they are OEM+ in ride quality.

Spray some Kleen-flo chain saver on the coils. It dries to a waxy finish, and allows the locking rings to move easily. I've done it, and my coil overs have no rust

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Hmm that is encouraging. I've heard of a lot of people running them on B8s and being satisfied so your feedback is more of what I expected to hear about them.

Do you have any pics of how your car sits on them?

[Bordom]

Hmm that is encouraging. I've heard of a lot of people running them on B8s and being satisfied so your feedback is more of what I expected to hear about them.

Do you have any pics of how your car sits on them?

Here you go:

Few weeks ago


Summer photos








Originally sat around 24.5 FTG front and 25ish FTG rear.

One interesting point to note is that since I've winter driven it, there seems to be two parts to how the car settles. One after you install (4ish weeks until broken in) and then after you winter drive (dropped a little more coming towards the end of the first winter).

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[19birel]

Here you go:

Few weeks ago


Summer photos








Originally sat around 24.5 FTG front and 25ish FTG rear.

One interesting point to note is that since I've winter driven it, there seems to be two parts to how the car settles. One after you install (4ish weeks until broken in) and then after you winter drive (dropped a little more coming towards the end of the first winter).

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That looks really good! Is that with them at their highest setting or did you have to adjust them a little to get it to that height?

[Bordom]

That looks really good! Is that with them at their highest setting or did you have to adjust them a little to get it to that height?

I can't remember exactly, but the fronts are about 3-3.5" of threads left in the front (middle of the range) and 1.5-2" of threads in the rear (bottom of the range).

Once you install, there'll be differences in ride height at all for corners. Adjust up or down as necessary for your desired height, then retorque all your bushings (I recommend loosening all of them before hand and setting your height before torquing, or you'll hate all the extra work).

My one front corner is noticeably higher up on the threads than the other side. However, the rear were more or less perfect on first try.

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[19birel]

I can't remember exactly, but the fronts are about 3-3.5" of threads left in the front (middle of the range) and 1.5-2" of threads in the rear (bottom of the range).

Once you install, there'll be differences in ride height at all for corners. Adjust up or down as necessary for your desired height, then retorque all your bushings (I recommend loosening all of them before hand and setting your height before torquing, or you'll hate all the extra work).

My one front corner is noticeably higher up on the threads than the other side. However, the rear were more or less perfect on first try.

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Oh okay, sounds like it'll take some tinkering to get it dialed in. Might have to have someone properly corner balance it after I get it close to make sure it's just right.

[Bordom]

Oh okay, sounds like it'll take some tinkering to get it dialed in. Might have to have someone properly corner balance it after I get it close to make sure it's just right.

Yeah, little bit of an act. One last tip, set ride height with a full gas tank. You'll thank me later lol

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[19birel]

Yeah, little bit of an act. One last tip, set ride height with a full gas tank. You'll thank me later lol

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Thanks, will do!

BTW has anyone here replaced their handbrake cables? Mine need replaced and everywhere I look says they're $100 a piece except Rock Auto which sell them for $13 but doesn't specify if what they have is for the left or right side. Honestly I'm considering getting used cables just so I don't have to spend another $200 ontop of all the other crap I need to buy for the car.

[19birel]

Well I figured it was time to post the final update in this thread. As of Sunday, I no longer own the B5. I was reluctant to drop another $1k on parts for the car, especially when I knew It'd be atleast another thousand to make the car just right (or sorta close), at the same time a B7 Avant popped up so that was enough for me to get the B5 sold to free up funds. While I loved my B5, it felt like it was time to let it go. Unfortunately the B7 sold, but I'll keep searching for something else.

Thanks all who have helped me along the way with this project, I'll still be on the forums as I'll likely be back in another Audi fairly soon. Till next time!