A response from me on another forum (PKG)
Xpel Ultimate is a self-healing paint protection film (PPF). It keeps surface scratches at bay, defends against and lessens the impact of rock chips, makes the ladies feel weak in the knees, etc. Unfortunately, Xpel Ultimate is not a miracle cure for all types of threats declaring violence on sexy paint. The film can still be etched by environmental droppings (sap, bird shit, etc), and is not on a competitive level with ceramic coatings or traditional waxes on its' hydrophobic abilities (the ability to repel water, dust, or anything else attached to a water-molecule carried via the air, splashed via direct contact,etc.).
The rest of the plan (you all knew there would be one):
Fun-fact #1: The paint should be pretty close to flawless (negating any pre-delivery/transit protection equipment application/removal, washes, etc...). However, the film actually masks any small imperfections. Regardless, the application areas were touched up by Willis prior to the Xpel application.
-My Makita 9227 should not be necessary as this process will take place on a car with <500 miles on the clock. There shouldn't' be any type of damage severe enough to merit a rotary correction. In fact, I'll be pretty pissed if the previous statement is not accurate.
-I still have my trusty old standard PC 7424 laying around and collecting dust, somewhere... Lord knows that bitch has seen some miles. However, during it's last years/stints of service, it had developed some wiring issues that demanded a few rebuilds/rewiring of the unit on multiple occasions. I purchased a new 7424XP HD and a new 5" hook/loop backer. I'll feel out the counterweight on the new machine, and if necessary, flip the counterweight over from the old machine to the new unit.
-I picked up a few new Lake Country 5.5" CCS pads from the folks at Autogeek (light cut). I had used 6-6.5" pads on the old 7424 in the past. Latest idea from me is to make the move to a smaller diameter pad when using a DA... I want more control... Speaking of strategy, I would use 60" pads on the rotary to cover more ground and cut cycle times if they were available, and if motor-heat never became an issue (which it does around a 9" pad, >80 ambient, moderate pressure).
-Entire car will get cleaned with some good stuff (I own the entire Wolfgang line), two buckets, grit guards, MF everything, etc, etc...
-Clay isn't necessary... I'll destroy whatever type of rail dust or fallout is laying on the finish after ~300 miles with the Eraser.
-Non-Xpel applied areas will get wiped with CarPro Eraser prior to light polish. This step is being used in place of clay to remove any rail dust, environmental fallout, etc...
-I also own the full Menzerna line circa de 2013 (being a hobbiest/spare-timer bespoke detailer has perks). However, there is a new Meznerna product that I felt I needed to demo (SF-4000). I'll hit the non-Xpel areas with a grey CCS equipped 7424XP, and SF-4000 to "level up."
-Full car (including the Xpel application area) will then get re-wiped with the CarPro Eraser (yes, Cobra MFs will be used).
-Full car (including the Xpel area) will then get two layers of CarPro Cquartz Ceramic Paint Protection. CarPro Reload will be used to level-up between applications.
-Kicking around laying a topper coat (or 2) of Souveran over the Cquartz... Havent decided yet... We'll see how well the golf game is working, how cherry the Cquartz finishes up to my eye, and how jet-lagged I am.
Should be fun. Labor of love!!!
-DL
Bookmarks